Bare root season -It's all here!!
- Tammy Johnson
- 7 days ago
- 6 min read
Updated: 5 days ago
Written and Edited by Tammy Johnson 5th June 2025
For those of you who don't know me personally, I have a regular daytime job like anyone else. But I'm one of the few lucky ones who can proudly say I truly loves my job and what I do.
I manage the Green-life Garden Department of our local K&B Mitre 10, and aside of the obvious perk, getting paid to buy and play with plants every day, what I really love is interacting with my customers, and building relationships with fellow gardeners.
You can only imagine my excitement bouncing into work this yesterday only moments after the Balhannah Nurseries truck had just delivered my 2025 Bare Root seasons trees!
(Ok, I'll let you in on a little secret, I barely slept the night before and have probably driven my workmates silly with my excitement in the last week).
So let me share some of that excitement with you and explain what bare root season is all about.
Balhannah Nurseries has a rich history spanning over 130 years at Charleston in the Adelaide Hills and are one of South Australia's leading wholesale tree growers. The nursery was founded in 1867 by Charles Pitt and later expanded by Henry Wicks, making it one of South Australia's oldest and most respected tree growers.
Today, Balhannah Nurseries continues this legacy by producing over 300,000 trees annually, supplying high-quality deciduous fruit and ornamental trees to retail garden centres just like ours, and commercial growers across the region.
Bare root season
Bare root season is one of the busiest times of the year for Balhannah Nurseries. It's when they lift their young trees from the ground while they're dormant, the process doesn't shock, stress or upset them because they're asleep, they're not actively growing.
The trimmed root systems are nestled in damp sawdust, then wrapped securely in plastic, and from there they're distributed to retail nurseries like ours ready for you to buy and plant.
The Advantage of Bare Root Trees
They're cheaper than potted trees.
Can be forward ordered and plentiful in supply.
Convenient to transport a large quantity of trees in a small amount of space.
Can be settled into their new location whilst the tree is still dormant avoiding transplant shock.
If you're super organised and know what you're planting where, you may have already pre-ordered your trees to avoid the disappointment of missing out, or you might prefer to wander through the selection and choose based on what's available and jumps out at you at the time. There are so many varieties to choose from that it can feel a little overwhelming.
Pollination🌸🐝
When it comes to fruit trees, it's worth doing a bit of preliminary research. Be armed with the knowledge of which trees are self-pollinating such as peaches, nectarines and apricots, verses those that need a pollination partner like apples, pears, plums and most cherries (with the exception of Stella, which is self-fertile).
**Little Tip** You'll usually find this information on the back of the tree's product tag. It will tell you if the tree is self-pollinating and if not, provide a suggestion for a suitable pollination companion. would be, taking the guess work out of it for you.
If you're choosing a variety that does requires a pollinator, you'll need enough space for two compatible trees, or you might consider a multi-grafted tree. A tree with multiple varieties grafted onto one rootstock.
Space requirements
If you're working with limited space, consider planting dwarf trees. These days there are almost as many dwarf varieties available as there are full sized trees. Dwarf trees take up about half the space, can be grown in large pots or half wine barrels, and still produce full-sized fruit just like their big sisters. Keep in mind though, you won't get quite the volume of fruit from a smaller tree and, the life expectancy of dwarf trees is typically half that of a standard sized one.
Espaliering is another space saving option worth considering. This technique involves training a tree to grow flat against a wall, fence, or frame, making it ideal for tight spots or as decorative features.
Now that we've established what you're looking for, it's time to choose your trees.
What to avoid
When selecting your trees, look for ones with multiple strong, healthy laterals (side branches). The wood should appear hydrated and have a healthy colour, with plenty of plump, fuzzy little buds along the stems.
Avoid trees with wood that looks dry, shrivelled, discoloured or damage. Signs of disease, open wounds, or very dark coloured wood can indicate dehydration, or in the worst case that the tree is no longer viable.
Most bare root trees arrive from the growers with their roots packed in damp wood shavings or sawdust, wrapped in plastic to keep them damp.
Sometimes, though, trees arrive at your retailer unpackaged. In that case, they’re often displayed in raised beds or large containers filled with damp compost, then wrapped as you select them. This is perfectly fine, as long as the roots haven’t dried out.
Pruning
Before planting, the canopy of your new bare root trees will need pruning back by one-third to one-half. (Back to approximately 20 healthy buds). This helps balance the tree reducing the demand on the root system which has been trimmed and is still recovering. If the tree is left top heavy and out of proportion, the workload will be too great and there's a good chance it won't establish successfully.
If you're unsure or not confident in doing this yourself, ask the qualified horticulturist when you purchase your trees to do this for you. (This is what I love being able to help you with).
If you do feel confident giving it a go, here is what I aim for:
Keep three to four strong, healthy laterals (side branches).
Prune each back by one-third to one-half, making your cuts just above an outward-facing bud.
Remove anything that’s damaged, dead, or oddly shaped.
Also remove any branches that cross or grow inward toward the centre of the tree.
Planting preparation
While you're preparing the planting hole, give your tree a soak in a solution of Seasol in water.
Seasol Health Treatment is a seaweed enriched tonic that boosts a plant's immune system, stimulate root growth, and help reduce transplant shock.
You'll need to dig the hole twice as wide as the root ball, but only as deep as the tree was originally growing. Look for a colour change on the lower part of the trunk, usually somewhere between the graft and the roots. This marks the depth the tree was previously planted at and should guide your planting depth.
Important: The graft should always be above the soil, never below it.
Mound up a little soil a little at the bottom of the hole and gently spread the roots out over and around the mound. Then begin backfilling the hole, pressing the soil in firmly as you go to prevent any air pockets.
Leave a shallow watering well or recess around the base of the tree so the water soaks down into the root zone rather than running off.
Use the same seasol solution you soaked the tree in earlier to water it in. Watch for air bubbles rising up through the soil, this is a good sign the roots are thoroughly soaked and no air pockets remain.
Finally add some organic fertiliser such as Rapid Raiser as per the application rates on the bag. This will provide essential nutrients to support your tree when it wakes from dormancy in spring.
Support
If you live in a windy area, it’s a good idea to support your young trees while they’re still establishing. Use a single sturdy hardwood stake, or for extra stability, a trio of stakes arranged around the tree.
Water
Water your trees regularly and thoroughly throughout the first season, especially if rainfall is light and inconsistent. Young trees need consistent moisture while they’re putting down roots.
By following these measures you'll be giving your trees every opportunity to take and grow successfully.
As always if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to message me or get in-touch.
Rug up, keep warm and enjoy your gardens.😘🪴
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