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Hares foot fern Davallia canariensis Written and edited by Tammy 8th March 2025. Do you want to know my favourite thing about walking into my bathroom every morning?... Standing there for a moment to admire the sheer beauty of my Rabbits foot fern davallia canariensis. I still don't entirely understand my infatuation with them, I have the gravest phobia of spiders and the furry Rhizomes that crawl out of the centre of the plant closely resemble that of a huntsman spider.... Nevertheless, they're one of my favourite indoor plants that I seem to be successful in growing. Rhizomes clinging to the outside of the basket Caring for a Rabbits foot fern Davallia canariensis Rabbits foot fern davallia canariensis is native to the Canary Islands hence the name. They have the daintiest fine dark green fronds, that grow on the furry little crawling appendages called rhizomes. Size They can potentially grow up to 50cm in height and spread to cover an area of 100cm. Mine, in the main picture at the top of the page progressed into a 20cm pot about 6 months ago once it began infringing on our personal space brushing our teeth each day, sitting where it was beside the sink. Amazing how quick they grow when they're happy. Now hanging from the ceiling in the bathroom, it's quickly reached a size of almost 80cm from its top to the lowest point of the fronds below. Habitat In their natural habitat these ferns are epiphytic meaning, they grow on other host plants, or in rock crevasses with their rhizomes deriving moisture and nutrients from the air, so it's important not to trim back or disturb them. Light preferences They like a bright filtered light (not direct) and need to be kept moist at all times but not sodden. Misting the fronds to create humidity is favourable or if you've got room in your bathroom that gets steamy, better still. Mine is in the bathroom on the Northern side of the house where it's always nice and bright and it's thriving in there. Fertiliser/ what to feed them As with all my indoor plants, once or twice throughout the warmer months when they're actively growing, I give them a dose of soluble fertiliser, Seasol Powerfeed, and Seasol Health Treatment. I also throw on a spoonful of Munash Organics Indoor plant soil food. Its key ingredient is natural rock minerals sourced from volcanic rock in Victoria and made right there in Ballarat Victoria. My plants seem to like it and respond to it really well, so I keep using it. As always, please make sure you use the products as per the manufacturer's instructions on the labels. I wonder how many others are scared of spiders yet love these plants like me🪴😍 Happy Gardening! While you're here, check out my Philodendron Squamiferum! She's amazing 😍 Philodendron Squamiferum If you’ve ever spotted an indoor plant with striking lobed leaves and curious red-fuzzy stems, you’ve likely met Philodendron Squamiferum . Native to the rainforests of Central and South America, it’s a tropical climbing beauty that brings an instant jungle vibe to any room. Unlike many glossy-leaf philodendrons, this one has a personality, those furry petioles (stems) make it a total standout. Given the right light, warmth, and support to climb, it’ll reward you with lush growth and dramatic foliage.

Written and edited by Tammy 30th October 2023 Powdery mildew on Zucchini leaves image of powdery mildew on Zucchini leaves curtesy of gardenerspath.com Written and edited by Tammy 30th October 2023 - Updated Nov 2025 Powdery Mildew — How to Spot It, Stop It, and Stay Ahead of It This Summer ☘️ They say you should 'never look a gift horse in the mouth' and Mother Nature has certainly gifted us with some beautiful rain here in the SE this Spring. It's been not only wet, but very mild, grey and gloomy overall, with below average warmth and sunshine, creating the perfect conditions for powdery mildew to thrive. Ongoing rain events, cool nights, low light, and sluggish air movement tick all the boxes for a fungal paradise! As we head into summer and our warm-season veggies really start firing, it’s the ideal time to keep an eye out and put a few prevention steps in place before powdery mildew becomes the uninvited guest. Identifying Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew is a fungal disease, and one of the easiest to recognise once you know the signs. You’ll typically notice: • White, powdery-looking spots on the surface of leaves • Mycelium (fungal tissue) spreading into a dusty coating • Foliage becoming yellowed, washed out, distorted, crispy, or wilted around the margins The tricky part? Spores live on old plant debris in the soil and hang around quietly until conditions are favourable. From there they’re spread by wind, insects, tools, clothing, pets… everything, really. Favourable Conditions Powdery mildew absolutely thrives when we get: • Cool, humid nights, followed by • Warm, dry, breezy days Think of mushroom-growing kits, cool, dim, low-airflow environments. Because powdery mildew is also a fungus, it loves the same conditions: reduced airflow + shade + lingering humidity. And that’s exactly what this spring has delivered. Most Susceptible Plants Plenty of plants are vulnerable, especially those we’re growing right now at the end of spring. The most common ones you’ll likely have in your garden include: Cucurbitaceae — zucchinis, squash, pumpkins, cucumbers, melons Solanaceae (Nightshades) — tomatoes, eggplants, chillies, capsicums Strawberries Fabaceae (Legumes) — beans and peas Roses Hydrangeas Prevention As always, prevention is better than cure. Put these small steps in place and you’ll dramatically reduce your risk: Allow maximum light and airflow through the foliage Avoid overcrowding — give each plant its own breathing space Remove old, damaged, or diseased lower leaves Choose a sunny position — 6–8 hours of light is ideal Water in the mornings so foliage dries before evening Apply Seasol Health Treatment to strengthen plant immunity Why not have a go at training your veggies up off the ground and over a mesh arch supported by 4 star droppers? The concept ticks all the boxes for keeping them off the damp ground and allowing maximum light and air circulation. I've watched a few tutorials recently and thought I'd have a go a setting one up for my Spaghetti Squash seeds. A few have germinated so I'll see how I go!! 😁🤞 Treatment If you do spot any tell-tale signs of powdery mildew, it's vital to act early: Remove affected leaves and dispose of them (don’t compost) Treat with Eco-Neem, Lime Sulphur, Liquid Copper, or any fungicide of your choice, always follow label directions Prefer a natural approach? Use a 40/60 milk-to-water spray (milk has natural antifungal properties) Or try the classic bicarb mix: 1 tsp bicarb soda + 1 L water + a few drops of biodegradable dish liquid (the soap helps it stick) Just remember: these treatments won’t repair leaves already damaged, but they will stop the spores and protect all the fresh new growth. Watch the newest leaves, if they’re clean and healthy, you’ve turned the tide. A Final Word Follow a few of these little hints and you’ll hopefully avoid powdery mildew altogether or, at least know exactly how to deal with it when it appears. Have a wonderful week, and enjoy your gardens 😘🌸

Advanced Philodendron Squamiferum Written and edited by Tammy 26th February 2023. Updated November 2025 Meet the Philodendron Squamiferum If you’ve ever spotted an indoor plant with striking lobed leaves and curious red-fuzzy stems, you’ve likely met Philodendron Squamiferum . Native to the rainforests of Central and South America, it’s a tropical climbing beauty that brings an instant jungle vibe to any room. Unlike many glossy-leaf philodendrons, this one has a personality, those furry petioles (stems) make it a total standout. Given the right light, warmth, and support to climb, it’ll reward you with lush growth and dramatic foliage. How to Care for Your Philodendron Squamiferum 🪴 Light : Bright, indirect light is best. It will tolerate lower light but will grow slower and produce smaller leaves. Avoid harsh direct sun, which can scorch those velvety stems and delicate foliage. 💧 Water : Let the top few centimetres of soil dry between waterings. I find one 9-litre watering can of rainwater every 4–5 weeks (even less in winter) keeps mine perfectly happy. Always tip out excess water from the saucer, these guys dislike “wet feet.” 🌿 Feeding : During spring and summer, feed monthly with a quality indoor plant food or a dash of Seasol to support new leaf growth. Hold back during winter when growth slows. 🌡️ Temperature & Humidity : Warm and humid conditions mimic its native jungle home. Bathrooms, bright corners near east-facing windows, or areas with a humidifier are perfect. 📏 Growth & Support : This is a natural climber! Give it a sturdy moss pole or rustic branch to cling to. Mine’s now almost seven feet tall in a 52-litre ceramic pot, trained up a sanded tree branch, she’s a statement piece! Styling & Personality There’s something elegant about Philodendron squamiferum especially when dressed in fairy lights woven up the stems for soft evening ambience. It’s a bold yet low-maintenance plant that fits beautifully into modern or boho indoor spaces. Common Problems & Tips Drooping or crispy leaves?  You’re likely underwatering or the air’s too dry. Yellowing leaves?  Ease back on watering, they hate soggy soil. Spider mites or thrips?  Keep humidity up and wipe leaves regularly. Neem oil can be a gentle deterrent. Before You Buy- A Quick Word on Choosing the Right Plant As a self-confessed plant junkie, I know the thrill of loading the car with leafy treasures, but a little research saves a lot of heartache (and wallet pain). Every plant comes from a particular environment, and success depends on how well you can replicate it. A cactus from the desert will never love a dark bathroom, just as a tropical philodendron won’t thrive in full sun. Match your plant to your space, and you’re halfway there. 💚Tips from Tammy's Lounge Room My Philodendron Squamiferum  has been with me for almost 7 years now, she puts out 4–5 new leaves every summer and still makes me smile every morning. Proof that once you understand what a plant needs, it will absolutely return the love. Update: Mine now in 2025 at the time of updating this post she has reached the ceiling height. I have to keep cutting the leaders back as the alternative would be removing the ceiling to let her keep going up and my landlord might not appreciate that! What’s your favourite indoor plant? Tell me below, I’d love to know what’s thriving in your space. Happy gardening😘🌺 Advanced Philodendron Squamiferum lit up with fairy lights If you love my Philodendron take a quick peek at my Harefoot Fern😁 Hares foot fern-Davallia Canariensis Do you want to know my favourite thing about walking into my bathroom every morning?... Revelling in the sheer beauty and vibrance of my Hares foot fern davallia canariensis.....

Written and edited by Tammy 11th November 2025 Pink Flowering Hawthorn (Crataegus laevigata Rosea Plena) If you’ve wandered down the main street of Naracoorte recently, you’ve no doubt noticed the stunning canopy of pink that’s stealing the show right now. The Pink Flowering Hawthorn Crataegus laevigata Rosa Plena are putting on the most amazing display, a sign that spring has truly settled in. These small trees line the footpaths like a living celebration, their branches laden with clusters of double rosy-pink blooms that pop against the fresh green foliage. They’re compact and tidy in shape typically growing around 4 to 6 metres tall and wide, making them perfect for street planting, cottage gardens, or small yards where space and structure both matter. A Tree with Character and Charm ‘Rosea plena’ has a lovely, rounded crown and a graceful form that brings softness to built-up spaces. In winter, its fine branching adds interest even without leaves, and come spring, it bursts into that unforgettable display of colour that lifts the whole street. Later in the season, glossy green leaves deepen in tone, creating a cool, shady haven for pedestrians and pollinators alike. Care and Growing Tips Despite their elegance, hawthorns are tough and low maintenance. They prefer a well-drained soil, anything from loam to light clay and thrive in full sun. Once established, they’re quite drought tolerant and can handle the cooler winters of the Limestone Coast with ease. A light prune after flowering will help maintain their shape and encourage next year’s blooms. They don’t ask for much: a bit of mulch to keep roots cool, an occasional deep soak during dry spells, and admiration from passers-by (which they get plenty of right now!) Perfect Uses 🌸 Street or avenue planting- they add instant charm and seasonal delight. 🌿 Feature trees- a single specimen in a front yard makes a cheerful statement. 🐝 Habitat for wildlife- bees adore the flowers, and the small fruits (haws) that follow are a treat for birds. 🏡 Cottage and heritage gardens- their old-world charm pairs beautifully with roses, lavender, and bulbs. As you stroll down the main street this week, take a moment to look up, the air’s sweeter, the colours richer, and it’s hard not to smile. The pink flowering hawthorns are in full glory, reminding us how beautiful our town can be when nature and community meet in bloom. Happy Gardening😘🌸

Picea pungens Blue star Christmas tree Written and updated by Tammy 8th November 2024 A Real Christmas Tree-My Blue Star Tradition As kids growing up, the excitement of Christmas always became real when we were packed into the family station wagon and taken for a Sunday drive out along the back roads, looking for that perfect Christmas tree to lay claim to. A quick look around to make sure the coast was clear, then snip! a lower branch was chopped off and away we went, loaded up with our tree engulfing every corner of the car. The smell of fresh pine needles would fill the house, and even today that fragrance brings back the happiest memories of Christmas. These days, when you walk into stores, Christmas trees line the shelves in every shape and colour from tiny fibre-optic novelties to tall imitation firs almost convincing enough to pass for the real thing. But what if I told you that, for not a lot of effort or dollars, you could have a real  Christmas tree of your own complete with that unmistakable pine fragrance? 🌿My Blue Star Christmas Tree The tree in the image above is my Picea pungens  ‘Blue Star’. I bought it as a tiny little thing, barely a foot tall, for $12.95 about seven years ago. Every spring, it bursts out with fresh new blue-green foliage just in time to come indoors for a few weeks to be dressed in tinsel and ornaments. 🎁 About the Blue Star (Colorado Spruce) Native to North America and commonly known as a Colorado Spruce, Picea pungens  ‘Blue Star’ is a relatively slow-growing conifer, reaching heights of no more than 1.5–2 metres in ten years. (As you can see mines about 1.5 m tall now) In their natural habitat, they can exceed 25 m, but rest assured that potential is easily contained in a pot or controlled garden setting. 🌞Care and Growing Tips Light:  Full sun to part shade. Soil:  Rich, free-draining, and neutral to slightly acidic. Water:  Give a deep drink before bringing it inside for Christmas. Keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Pests:  They’re tough rarely bothered by much at all. When bringing your tree indoors for the festive season, choose a bright position and avoid over-decorating heavy branches. After Christmas, transition it back outdoors gradually over several days, first to shade, then part shade, then back to its usual sunny spot. 🌲 Other Options If the Blue Star isn’t your style, try Picea glauca , a lovely emerald-green conifer with classic Christmas colour. You can really make a Christmas tree out of almost any plant, let your creativity run wild! Most garden centres and nurseries will soon have Picea  varieties available as living Christmas trees. ❤️ Why I Love a Real Tree My kids laugh at my sentimental ways, but I think a living tree is so much nicer than a plastic one. And who knows, maybe my little tree will still be around long after me, and my children’s children can bring it inside each year and proudly say, “This was our great-grandma’s tree.”  ❤️🎄 Happy gardening😘🌸 My Tree in all her glory Other related posts you may enjoy Gardening Inspired gift ideas Stuck for last minute gift ideas for the gardening enthusiast loved one? Look no further! https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/gardening-inspired-gift-ideas  The Perfect Christmas Garden Made Simple Make your garden the perfect place to celebrate Christmas and make memories with your family. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/christmas-colour-in-the-garden

The scoop on Millipedes So, you hop up in the night and tootle off to the bathroom half-asleep, minding your own business only to hear that crunch , feel the wet mess, and finally there's the realisation with the unmistakable smell (seriously, what is  with that?). You flick on the light and… low and behold, you’ve squished a millipede between your toes. They don’t exactly suck out of the carpet well, and somehow, they just “happen” to fall from the ceiling or appear beside you on the bench when you least expect it! Come on now what gives? These little critters love moist, dark spots anywhere with leaf litter, mulch, potted plants, or logs  that stay cool and damp. They’re not out to terrorise you, though. Most of the time they’re quietly recycling old plant matter, helping to break it down into rich soil . But when things get a bit too  comfy (think very damp + lots of cover), they’ll wander closer to home sometimes literally into  your home. Because millipedes dry out easily , dryness is their enemy and that’s the key to gentle, eco-friendly control. 🪴 Eco-Friendly Control Methods (Using Tammy’s favourite IPM approach: prevention → observation → action) 1️⃣ Reduce Their Favourite Habitat Thin out thick mulch layers , especially near house foundations or garden edges that stay damp. Clear up leaf litter, logs, stones, and pot bases  where they hide out. Fix drainage  issues so there are no soggy spots near your walls or garden beds. Once the environment’s less humid, they’ll move on naturally. 2️⃣ Barrier & Exclusion Tricks Seal gaps and cracks  around doors, windows, vents, and skirting boards. Use smooth barriers  (vinyl wrap or metal flashing) along walls they can’t climb slick surfaces. Indoors, vacuum them up  rather than squashing they release a defensive fluid that stinks  and can even potentially stain fabrics. 3️⃣ Safe Physical Controls Night patrols  Millipedes are most active in the dark. Inside your house check floors, near doorways, and even beds daily to try to keep down numbers. DIY traps:  shallow dishes with fruit scraps work beautifully. Sprinkle food-grade Diatomaceous Earth  around entry points it gently dries them out without harsh chemicals. (Diatomaceous Earth is simply organic fossil shell flour, a more natural eco-friendly effective alternative product. You'll find it available in most leading chain stores, and pet supply stockists. For large yards and gardens look for a 1-3kg volume). 4️⃣ Gentle Natural Deterrents Essential oils  (peppermint or tea tree) can help repel them. Dab a few drops along skirting boards or door frames. Dim your outdoor lights  at night, millipedes often follow the glow straight to your doorstep! At the end of the day, it’s all about making things a little less cosy  for these moisture-loving wanderers. Keep your spaces dry, tidy up the hidey-holes, and seal off those sneaky little entry points. A few smart barriers or homemade traps will usually do the trick long before you ever need to think about sprays. Only reach for chemicals if things truly get out of hand otherwise, the gentle, nature-friendly route keeps your garden balanced, your home peaceful, and your toes millipede-free! Happy Gardening 😘💚  Other Blogs you might find interesting Identifying & Controlling Aphids on Fruit Trees, Roses & Ornamentals. The mild start we’ve had to spring, not a lot of heat and regular rain is just what they love. It sees these tiny sap-suckers busy setting up camp on fruit trees, roses and ornamentals right throughout our gardens. Powdery Mildew ☘️ With Spring now in full swing and summer vegetable seedlings going into the ground left right and centre, powdery mildew becomes a hot topic. If you're vigilant and know what to look out for, and perhaps even what precautions to have in place, you'll be able to act quickly if it does show up for the party! What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together. Leaf Curl on Stone Fruit Leaf curl is a fungal disease (caused by Taphrina deformans ) that mainly attacks peaches and nectarines. It shows up in spring when new leaves emerge thickened, puckered, and often red or yellow, eventually becoming dry and distorted. Over the winter months the microscopic fungal spores continue to live on the tree hiding in tiny crevices in the bark and around the dormant buds.

Written and edited by Tammy 26th October 2025 Ok, hands up who's having issues with Aphids right now?? If I had a dollar for every gardener I've seen within the last few weeks pleading for help with aphids, I could almost take the rest of the year off unpaid! So, what does this tell us? Quite clearly aphids are having a ball breeding up a storm! The mild start we’ve had to spring, not a lot of heat and regular rain is just what they love. It sees these tiny sap-suckers busy setting up camp on fruit trees, roses and ornamentals right throughout our gardens. What Are Aphids Aphids are tiny little sap-sucking critters from the insect family Aphididae, and once spring kicks into gear, they seem to appear out of nowhere. Unlike other insects that lay eggs, aphids give birth to live young so a few can turn into a whole army almost overnight. They’re soft-bodied, usually green, black or brown, and only a few millimetres long. You’ll often find them clustered on new shoots, under leaves, and along young stems where they pierce the plant and drink its sap. This constant feeding can cause leaves to curl, buds to twist, and fresh growth to look distorted or stunted. If their feeding habits weren't bad enough, aphids love to leave their calling card. That shiny, sticky residue you see all over the leaves? That's their secretion, a sugary waste product called honeydew. Over time the honeydew goes mouldy (black sooty mould) and that becomes an open invite for ants to join the party. Most commonly seen species Let’s take a look at the most common aphid species you’re likely seeing in your backyard, what signs to look out for, and how to tackle infestations using gentle, Integrated Pest Management (IPM) methods that keep your garden, and its' helpful critters, in balance. Rose Aphids, Green Peach Aphids, Black Bean Aphids and Leaf Curl Plum Aphids are the 4 most problematic species in our gardens right now in spring. Tip** There is also a little fuzzy grey/ green one (Cabbage Aphid) we see commonly throughout winter making itself at home amongst the Brassicas, so keep that in mind, the means of dealing with them when you come across them will be the same. Clockwise from top left: close up images of rose aphids, black bean aphids, cabbage aphids and curl leaf plum aphids. Check through the table here below for the characteristics of these 4 aphids. Feature Rose Aphid  ( Macrosiphum rosae ) Green Peach Aphid  ( Myzus persicae ) Black Bean Aphid  ( Aphis fabae ) Leaf-Curl Plum Aphid  ( Brachycaudus helichrysi ) Main Hosts Roses and ornamental shrubs Stone fruits (peach, nectarine, plum), brassicas, ornamentals Broad beans, beetroot, many ornamentals and weeds Plums, and stone fruit Colour Light green to pinkish or reddish-brown Pale to bright green, sometimes with reddish tinge Deep brown to black, often shiny Early season brownish, later yellow-green Body Shape Long and slender Shorter, rounder, pear-shaped Rounded and chunky Small and oval; slightly flattened Size 2–3 mm 1.5–2 mm 2 mm 1.5–2 mm Damage Symptoms Twisted or distorted rose buds and new shoots Curling and puckering of young leaves; sticky honeydew Dense colonies on stems and underside of leaves; yellowing or stunting Strong leaf curling and twisting; premature fruit drop on plums Texture / Look Slightly translucent Smooth, more opaque Matte to shiny black Glossy, sometimes with slight waxy coating Other Clues Found on rose buds and new growth; visible clusters Found under leaves and new shoots of stone fruit Often attended by ants; large, obvious colonies Found early in spring; often causes leaf curl similar to peach leaf curl fungus Signs & evidence of an infestation When you’re surveying your garden here’s what to keep an eye out for: Clusters of tiny insects (often 1–3 mm) on new shoots, tender growth, underside of leaves, tips of branches. Leaves that are curling, twisted, puckered or distorted (especially on fruit trees). Buds failing to open or appearing deformed in roses or fruit trees. Sticky residue (honeydew) on the leaves or branches or on surfaces beneath the plant. This may lead to black sooty mould. Discoloured leaves (yellowing, pale patches) where sap has been removed. Presence of ants on the plant (ants often “farm” aphids for honeydew, protecting them from predators). Winged aphids appearing, a sign the colony is at high density and dispersal is occurring. Particularly on fruit trees: check new growth and behind leaves, inspect the tips of branches. Integrated Pest Management (IPM): Fancy terminology for 'there's more than one way to deal with it ' Using an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach is all about working with  nature, not against it. Instead of reaching straight for spray, it’s about building a balanced plan that keeps pests in check, encourages the good bugs (like ladybugs🐞) to stick around and help out, and keeps your whole garden ecosystem healthy. There're 4 simple practices in IPM Cultural & preventive Biological control & beneficials Mechanical/physical control Chemical or organic treatments (when necessary) Cultural & preventive practices The best way to keep aphids under control is to stop them from getting too comfortable in the first place. Keep your plants healthy with good soil, steady feeding, and not too much nitrogen, all that lush, sappy growth is like an open buffet for them! Give your plants a bit of breathing space so air can circulate and you can keep a better watchful eye on what's going on and who your guests are. It also helps to do a quick once-over during spring, especially on new growth and rose tips, where aphids love to gather. And don’t forget the power of companion planting, nasturtiums make great decoys, while flowering herbs and annuals will draw in the helpful predators who'll happily snack on the aphids for you. Biological control & beneficials One of the best allies you can have in the garden are the good bugs, those tiny helpers that naturally keep aphid numbers down. Ladybirds, lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps all love a good aphid feast, so do what you can to make them feel at home. Grow a mix of flowering herbs and annuals so they’ve got nectar and pollen to feed on, and go easy on the sprays, broad-spectrum insecticides might knock out a few aphids, but they also wipe out your beneficials, which often makes the problem bounce back worse than before. If you notice ants hanging around, it’s usually because they’re farming the aphids for their sticky honeydew. Try using barriers or baits to keep the ants at bay so your natural predators can get on with their work. Mechanical/physical control Sometimes the simplest fixes work best. A strong jet of water from the hose is often all it takes to blast aphids off stems and leaves, especially on roses and shrubs where they like to cluster. If a few spots are really crowded, just pinch or prune out the worst of it and pop the cuttings in the bin (not the compost). For smaller outbreaks, sticky traps or reflective mulch can help confuse flying aphids before they land, and if you’ve got a potted plant that’s heavily infested, move it aside for a bit so the problem doesn’t spread to its neighbours. Little steps like these make a big difference without reaching for the spray bottle. insect mesh Chemical or organic treatments (when necessary) If you’ve tried all the gentle options and the aphids are still hanging on, it might be time to step things up a notch, carefully. Go for softer choices like insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, which are safe for roses and fruit trees and work by coating the aphids rather than leaving harsh residues. Make sure to cover the undersides of leaves and new shoots where they like to hide and always follow the label directions to the letter. Try to spray early in the morning or later in the evening when beneficial insects are less active and check back after a few days to see how things are going, a second light spray might be needed for stubborn colonies. Think of sprays as a last resort, not the first tool you grab. The goal is balance, not a bug-free garden. Once you’ve treated the problem, keep a casual eye on things over the next few weeks. Pay attention to whether the aphids are easing off, the new growth is bouncing back, and the helpful bugs, like ladybirds and hoverflies, are around. Jot down what worked (and what didn’t) so you’re ready for this time next season. Fruit trees are most at risk when fresh shoots appear or blossoms are forming, roses are irresistible as soon as new buds open, and ornamentals can quietly harbour colonies that spread to everything else. They might be tiny, but given the right conditions, aphids can cause a big headache fast. By learning to spot them early, knowing which ones you’re dealing with, and leaning on gentle methods that encourage balance in the garden, you’ll keep your plants, and the good bugs happy and thriving. So, keep your eyes open, your garden humming, and your sprays to a minimum. Happy gardening 🌸🪴 I've created a handy little fact sheet here for you to download and keep close handy😁👍

Sunrise over a vineyard Written and edited by Tammy 3nd February 2023 Daylight savings, you’re either a lover or a hater. And those that hate it will tell you loud and clear, but me….I’m a lover! I literally count down the sleeps till ‘that time of the year’ when I can still have hours of playtime out in the garden after work. While we’re adjusting alarms, coffee breaks, and morning routines, our gardens carry on as if nothing’s changed. Long before humans fiddled with time, plants were quietly tuned into the sun, the seasons, and their own inner clocks. They don’t care if we flip numbers forward and backward to suit ourselves season after season, they respond to light, temperature, and day length. Their circadian rhythms (yes, plants have them too!) mean leaves unfurl, flowers open, and sap rises in tune with sunrise and sunset, not our human schedules. That’s why you’ll see your sunflowers still turning their heads with the sun tomorrow, even if you feel groggy from losing an hour’s sleep. Photoperiodism, one of those big fancy words, it’s the terminology given to a plants ability to regulate its development based of the hours of daylight. A chemical within plants called Florigen tells the plant 'The days are getting shorter, time to hurry up and stop putting on foliage and focus on reproduction before time runs out'. With deciduous trees, we get all those beautiful Autumn colours .....that's a direct result of the chlorophyll in the leaves breaking down as the days shorten. The pretty colours were there all along, you just couldn't see them because of the chlorophyll. Without leaves, the tree loses its ability to photosynthesise and keep doing its thing, so it shuts down (becomes dormant) and goes to sleep for the season. As soon as the ground begins to warm, and the days begin to lengthen it signals the plants to wake up and the cycle begins all over again. As gardeners, we can learn something from this: Nature keeps time better than we do. Plants don’t rush, they adapt gently to seasonal changes. Our role is to notice these cues: bud swell, sap flow, soil warmth, leaf drop. So when you’re out in the garden this week, adjusting your own clock, take a moment to watch how your plants adjust to the real timekeepers: the sun and the seasons. Happy gardening😘🌳

Written and edited by Tammy 11h October 2025 It can be hard sometimes keeping up with all the latest fads, fashions and concepts, they seem to come and go quicker that Christmas. It's easy to feel left behind, scratching your head in bewilderment. (That's why I try to stick to gardening!🤪) Do you know what Permaculture or Regenerative Gardening are? No? Neither did I, I honestly thought they were the same thing, but after digging a little deeper, (pardon the pun) turns out they're not. So, let's break them down, and see what all the noise is about. Regenerative Gardening Regenerative gardening is all about healing and rebuilding.  It focuses on improving soil health, restoring ecosystems, and creating long-term sustainability, not just for our gardens, but for the planet too. It’s a process-based  approach, which means it’s about what you do season after season: feeding your soil, boosting biodiversity, and encouraging natural resilience. Every time you compost, mulch, or leave those fallen leaves to break down naturally, you’re feeding life back into the system. Think of it as gardening that gives back more than it takes. Instead of working against  nature, you’re working with  it, rebuilding the soil’s web of microorganisms, trapping carbon, and supporting pollinators and beneficial insects along the way. Core focus:  soil biology, carbon capture, organic matter, and ecosystem repair. Typical practices include: 🌱 No-dig gardening  — letting the soil structure and microbes stay undisturbed. 🍂 Composting and worm farms  — turning waste into nutrient gold. 🌾 Cover crops and green manures  — adding organic matter and preventing erosion. 🌼 Living mulches and groundcovers  — keeping soil cool and protected. 💧 Natural fertilisers and water-wise practices  — feeding and hydrating gently, without synthetic inputs. Over time, a regenerative garden becomes richer, healthier, and more alive, a self-sustaining mini ecosystem where every bug, root, and handful of soil plays a part in the bigger picture. Permaculture If regenerative gardening is about healing, permaculture  is about designing , creating a space that mimics how nature already works, so everything supports everything else. It’s a holistic way of thinking about your garden (and even your lifestyle), where each element, from plants and water to animals and people, plays a role in helping the whole system thrive. At its heart, permaculture is guided by three core ethics: Earth Care, People Care, and Fair Share.  Those principles remind us to look after the land, nurture our communities, and only take what we truly need, giving the surplus back to nature and others. While regenerative gardening focuses on soil and seasonal practices, permaculture zooms out a little wider, it’s about designing  the whole layout of your garden or property for long-term harmony and efficiency. Core focus:  landscape design, natural systems, resource efficiency, and human connection to the environment. Typical practices include: 🌳 Zoning and layout design  — grouping plants and features based on how often you use or visit them (like putting your herbs close to the kitchen). 💧 Rainwater harvesting and greywater use  — catching, storing, and reusing water where possible. 🐔 Integrating animals  — using chickens for pest control and fertiliser, or bees for pollination. 🌿 Polyculture planting  — mixing species that help each other rather than relying on monocultures. 🍅 Perennial food systems  — growing long-lived plants that keep producing year after year. A permaculture garden becomes a living system that practically runs itself, productive, low-waste, and resilient. It’s the perfect blend of creativity and common sense, where thoughtful design makes hard work easier and sustainability second nature. Still scratching your head? here’s a little comparison table to make it all crystal clear 👇 🌻In Short-Regenerative Gardening vs. Permaculture Aspect Regenerative Gardening Permaculture Focus's on Healing and rebuilding the soil Designing whole systems that work with nature What is all about Soil and garden health Lifestyle and landscape design Ethics Naturally focussed on caring for Earth Guided by three clear principles: Earth Care, People Care & Fair Share Example Building soil with compost & cover crops Designing a veggie garden with water catchment zones So, Which One Should You Start With? If you’re already composting, mulching, and focusing on soil life, congratulations, you’re practicing regenerative gardening! If you’re ready to look at how every part of your garden (and life) fits together as a self-sustaining system, that’s when you step into permaculture. They’re not rivals; they’re different layers of the same philosophy. You can start regeneratively and naturally evolve toward permaculture thinking as your garden (and your mindset) grows. At the end of the day, gardening isn’t about ticking boxes or following trends, it’s about connection. The more we nurture the soil beneath us, the stronger our bond becomes with the world around us. Start small, stay curious, and let nature do the teaching. Happy gardening 😘🌸💚

Lawn care 101 Written and edited by Tammy 28th September 2025 Alright, hands up who hasn't stood in the aisle full of weed 'n' feed in the last few weeks and rolled their eyes thinking "**** what type of lawn do I actually have?"🙄 Lawns are the green canvas of our backyards, but not all lawns are created equal. From soft barefoot-friendly buffalo to tough, drought-resistant kikuyu, knowing what type of lawn you have (or what you should choose if you're starting out) can make all the difference in how you care for it. To put to rest some of the confusion, I've created a guide for you to the most common lawn varieties grown in Australian gardens, including their features, pros and cons, and a few care tips to boot. (And if you’re here because you’re trying to choose a weed ‘n’ feed? Pay close attention, the type of lawn you’ve got will decide which one you should be using.) 🌱 Lawn varieties: top left Kikuyu, top right fescue blend, centre Buffalo, bottom left Couch, bottom right Clover. Buffalo Grass (including Sir Walter Buffalo ) Features: Broad, soft leaves, lush and green. Tolerates shade better than most warm-season grasses. Stays green most of the year in mild climates. Pros: Soft underfoot and child-friendly. Low thatch build-up compared to older buffalo types. Good shade tolerance (especially Sir Walter). Cons: Slower to repair if damaged. Can be more expensive to establish. Tips: Mow to around 40–50mm high. Fertilise in spring and autumn for best colour. Avoid scalping, as buffalo doesn’t have underground runners. Kikuyu Features: Fast-growing, hardy, and bright green. Loves full sun and warm weather. Self-repairs quickly. Pros: Budget-friendly and tough. Excellent for high-traffic lawns (kids, pets). Rapid recovery from wear. Cons: Can become invasive into garden beds. Needs regular mowing to stay tidy. Doesn’t cope well with shade. Tips: Mow weekly in summer to keep it in check. Fertilise more often due to its fast growth. Use garden edging to stop it spreading into beds. Couch (e.g. Santa Ana Couch ) Features: Fine leaf texture, dense carpet-like growth. Prefers full sun. Popular for sports fields and golf courses. Pros: Hardwearing and fast repairing. Creates a manicured, “bowling green” look. Drought tolerant once established. Cons: Poor shade tolerance. Loses colour in winter in cooler climates. Can build heavy thatch if neglected. Tips: Best kept short (12–25mm). Needs dethatching every few years. Over-sow with ryegrass in winter for colour if desired. Tall Fescue Features: Cool-season grass with a soft, fine blade. Stays green year-round in southern Australia. Tolerates shade reasonably well. Pros: Lovely soft feel and lush appearance. Handles cooler climates better than warm-season lawns. Doesn’t spread aggressively (clump-forming). Cons: Slow to repair bare patches. Higher water requirements in summer. Not as tough as kikuyu or couch. Tips: Mow a little higher (40–60mm) to reduce stress in summer. Keep up regular watering during hot weather. Patch bare spots with seed each autumn. Ryegrass (often used in blends) Features: Cool-season grass, germinates very quickly. Fine texture and deep green colour. Commonly mixed with fescue for instant coverage. Pros: Fast establishment, great for patching. Stays green year-round in cooler climates. Provides winter colour when warm-season lawns go dormant. Cons: Shorter lifespan in hot summers. Needs more mowing and water. Can thin out quickly without reseeding. Tips: Use as a blend rather than stand-alone for longevity. Reseed in autumn for winter coverage. Fertilise regularly to maintain colour. Drought-Tolerant Varieties (e.g. Drought Master blends ) Features: Usually mixes of couch, kikuyu, or specialty drought-hardy grasses. Bred for low water use. Pros: Excellent choice for water-restricted areas. Hardwearing and resilient. Requires less irrigation. Cons: May not be as soft underfoot. Some blends have coarser textures. Tips: Still water deeply during establishment. Use wetting agents in summer to reduce dry patches. Fertilise lightly to avoid excessive growth. Clover Features: Small-leaved groundcover, soft and cool underfoot. Stays green with minimal watering. Fixes nitrogen naturally, enriching the soil. Pros: Very low maintenance. Self-fertilising and resilient. Attracts bees and pollinators. Cons: Doesn’t cope with heavy foot traffic. Can stain clothes. Some people prefer the traditional “grass look.” Tips: Leave it unmown or mow lightly for a soft carpet effect. Ideal for low-traffic areas or mixed lawns. Water sparingly – clover thrives in ordinary conditions. Naturalised “Lawns” – Clover, Violets, Dichondra & Friends It’s worth remembering that there’s absolutely nothing wrong with a naturalised lawn either. Clover, violets, dichondra and other creeping groundcovers create a beautiful, meadow-like effect that many gardeners prefer over the manicured look of turf. These varieties of plants often need less mowing, less watering, and little to no fertiliser, making them an eco-friendly choice. They’re also wonderful for pollinators, bees adore clover flowers, while violets and other small bloomers add seasonal colour. A naturalised lawn may not be the best option for kids to run barefoot across (as clover bees will happily remind you!) but for low-maintenance gardeners wanting beauty, biodiversity, and a softer environmental footprint, they’re a fantastic alternative. Where Do You Find These Lawn Types? If you’re starting out fresh, most of these lawn varieties are easy to source in a couple of different ways: Instant turf (roll-out): Available through turf farms and garden centres. Great if you want that instant “green carpet” look without waiting for seeds to grow. Common with buffalo, kikuyu, couch, and specialty drought-tolerant blends. Boxed seed mixes: Found in nurseries, hardware garden aisles, and online. Perfect for ryegrass, fescue, clover, and lawn blends. Good for patching existing lawns too. Punnets or trays of groundcovers: For naturalised options like dichondra or violets, you’ll often find them in the groundcover section of nurseries. They can be planted to spread into a soft, low-maintenance carpet. Which option you choose really depends on how quickly you want results, your budget, and whether you’re patching up bare spots or starting a whole new lawn from scratch. A Quick Word on Weed ’n’ Feed Products Weed ’n’ feeds aren't 'one size fits all', and choosing the wrong one can do more harm than good. Buffalo caution: Buffalo grasses (including Sir Walter) are sensitive  to certain herbicides. Many “all-purpose” weed ’n’ feeds contain dicamba the number one culprit for burning or killing buffalo lawns. Always check the label for “safe for buffalo”  before buying. ✅ Safer active ingredients for buffalo lawns  include: Bromoxynil MCPA  (at lower rates, when blended with bromoxynil) 2,4-D (amine salt form) Bentazone  (less common, but buffalo-tolerant) Broadleaf weeds vs grasses: Weed ’n’ feeds are designed to knock out broadleaf weeds (like bindii, clover, and dandelion) without harming grass. But if your “lawn” is actually clover, violets, or dichondra, avoid using them altogether, they’ll wipe out your groundcover. Granular vs liquid: Liquids work faster and give even coverage, while granular products are often gentler and longer-lasting. Right timing: Apply when weeds are actively growing (spring and autumn). Avoid using on heat-stressed lawns in summer, or just before rain. Bottom line:  Always flip the pack over and check the “Active constituents” panel. If it lists dicamba avoid it . If it lists bromoxynil, MCPA (at safe rates), or 2,4-D amine, you’re in safer territory for buffalo lawns. Final Thoughts The best lawn for your garden depends on your climate, lifestyle, and how much time you want to spend on maintenance. For busy families:  Kikuyu or Sir Walter Buffalo. For cooler climates:  Tall fescue or ryegrass blends. For hot, dry regions:  Couch or drought-master blends. For eco-conscious gardeners:  Clover, violets, or dichondra. Choosing wisely at the start will save you hours of work down the track and give you a lawn you’ll actually enjoy walking barefoot on. 🌱 Happy Gardening!😘☘️ ✨Bonus✨Buffalo v Kikuyu, which is which🤷‍♀️ Leaf width & texture: Buffalo : Wide, flat, soft leaves with smooth edges (nice under bare feet). Kikuyu : Narrower, slightly more pointed leaves with a coarse feel. Growth habit: Buffalo : Grows with above-ground runners (stolons)  only. This means it tends to stay where it’s planted and doesn’t creep aggressively. Kikuyu : Grows with both above and underground runners (stolons + rhizomes)  — it’s a spreader! That’s why it creeps into garden beds if not edged. Colour tone: Buffalo : Deep, darker green. Kikuyu : Brighter, almost lime-green in summer. Shade tolerance: Buffalo : Handles shade very well (Sir Walter especially). Kikuyu : Hates shade, thins out quickly if it doesn’t get sun. Repair rate: Buffalo : Slower to bounce back from damage. Kikuyu : Very fast repair, often described as “invasive.” ( If your lawn is forever trying to creep into your garden beds, it’s kikuyu. If it politely stays put, it’s likely buffalo 😁👍)

The Littlest Things Bring the Biggest Joys 🌞 Sunflowers, sunshine, smiles & spring holidays! When I think back to my earliest childhood memories of things I loved about gardening, hands down it would have to have been growing sunflowers. I loved the excitement of watching how much they would grow every day, almost right before your eyes. Standing so tall and proud, bright and cheerful, turning their heads to follow the sun. Sunflowers are like the happy faces of the spring garden. And the best part? They’re one of the easiest flowers to grow straight from seed, making them the perfect project for the spring school holidays! I've got some on my kitchen bench right now for my little grand-daughter Ivy to grow. Why Sunflowers? Why not! Sunflowers are some of the easiest flowers you’ll ever grow. Pop a seed into the soil, add sunshine and a splash of water, and before long they’re up and away. They germinate quickly too, which is perfect for kids (or the young at heart!) who don’t like waiting long to see those first little shoots push through the soil. And while once upon a time a sunflower was just a sunflower, today they’ve become a whole world of their own. Plant breeders have been busy creating hundreds of named cultivars. Some are bred for towering height (taller than Dad!), others are compact little dwarfs that fit neatly in pots, and many have been chosen for their colour, from the classic golden yellow through to rich reds and soft creamy whites. Tips for growing sunflowers 🌱 Soil Sunflowers aren’t fussy, but they’ll be happiest in loose, well-drained soil, enriched with compost and a sprinkle of organic fertiliser. Sunshine True to their name, they need full sun, at least 6 hours a day, for the best blooms. Water Keep the soil evenly damp while they’re germinating. Once established, water deeply once or twice a week. (Shallow watering encourages shallow roots, and we want strong, deep ones!) Fertiliser When planting, give your sunflowers a balanced organic fertiliser such as Rapid Raiser to set them up with the nitrogen they need for strong leafy growth. Think of it as “fuel for the stalks and leaves.” Once the buds appear, switch to a liquid feed that’s richer in phosphorus and potassium, this is the “food for flowers”, exactly what they need to create those beautiful big, bright blooms. Pests & diseases Watch out for slugs and snails when seedlings are small and keep an eye on the leaves for aphids or powdery mildew in humid weather. Harvesting seed Once the flower heads start to dry and the back turns brown, cut them off and let them finish drying in a sheltered spot. Then you can rub the seeds out, some for roasting and snacking, some to save in a paper bag ready for planting again next spring. 🌻Holiday fun with the kids Encourage the kids to have their own little sunflower patch. They can: Measure them weekly and keep a “tallest sunflower” chart. Try different varieties side by side, giant's vs dwarfs, yellows vs reds. Snap photos to create a “sunflower diary” of their progress. Harvest and save the seed to make a 'bird seed ball' or 'bird seed cake'. By summer, those tiny seeds sown in the holidays will be standing tall, busting with colour, offering a feast for the birds and bees. Bird Seed Balls Ready to have some fun with the kids making bird seed balls to hang out for the birds to eat? I've created a downloadable pdf for you to print off and keep on hand for sunflower season. Where to Buy Sunflower Seeds Mr Fothergill's Mr Fothergill’s is one of Australia’s most trusted seed brands, known for reliable quality and a wide range of sunflower varieties. Whether you’re after towering giants, cheerful dwarfs for pots, or something special for the kids to grow, there's a variety to suit every occasion. 🌻Browse their sunflower collection here.”   Mr Fothergill’s Sunflower Seeds 🌻 Here's hoping you're all enjoying the first month of Spring. Happy Gardening 😘🌻

Written and edited by Tammy 13th September 2025 If you’ve ever stood beneath a waterfall of wisteria blooms, you’ll know the magic these vines bring. And the perfume? Don’t get me started, it drifts on the breeze, light and airy, a sweet almost-vanilla floral note that really is unforgettable. As beautiful as they are, wisterias aren’t shy about taking over. Left to their own devices, they’ll tangle their way through fences, roofs, even trees! There're pros and cons with everything in life though so don’t let that deter you; with the right prune and tidy up at the right time, they’re easy enough to tame, and you’ll be rewarded with those dreamy cascades of blossom year after year. I’ve just finished pruning a rather 'free spirited' one for a client a couple of weekends ago and found it to be a rewarding challenge. While it’s still fresh in my mind, I’ll share a few tips with you. ⸻ When to Prune Wisteria Vines Summer prune (January-February in Aus / July-August in the Northern Hemisphere): After flowering, cut back the long whippy shoots that have grown that season to about 5–6 leaves from the base. This keeps growth in check and encourages flower bud formation instead of just leafy chaos. Winter prune (July-August in Aus / January-February in the Northern Hemisphere): Go back to those same shoots and cut them down further to 2–3 buds. This tidies things up and really focuses energy into spring flowers. This is the pruning I've just done recently for a client (last week of August) and it really was made easy by the fact that I could see the swollen leaf buds, and more importantly, see the soon to unfurl flower racemes. ✨Tip: Always go slow, take your time, enjoy the process and look for those little clues. Is that a swollen leaf bud, or where flowers are going to be. Let that help guide you. ⸻ Goals of Pruning •Encourage more flowers: Wisteria blooms best on short spurs, not long whippy growth. •Keep the structure supporting your vine sound: old vines can get heavy, so keep the main framework clean and strong. •Prevent takeover: If left unpruned, it will happily eat gutters, roof tiles, and any unsuspecting trees nearby! ✨Tip: The vine I just tackled, was gleefully meandering along inside the gutter, and making its way across the roof. I took most of the whippy long stuff off and only retained a few canes securing them in a different direction where I wanted to encourage growth. I retained all the little, short bloom spurs, knowing they were my flowers for this season. ⸻ Step-by-Step for an Established Vine Identify the framework (the thick, woody stems you want to keep for life). Leave these as your “bones.” Summer: Cut back the current year’s thin shoots to 5–6 leaves. Winter: Re-cut those same shoots to 2–3 buds. These become next season’s flowering spurs. Remove suckers or tangled growth from the base or where stems cross/rub. Tame the monsters: Any runners heading into roof gutters, under tiles, or into other plants, off with their heads! ⸻ Extra Tips • If it hasn’t flowered well, it could be because it’s too vigorous. Don’t overfeed with nitrogen (especially lawn fertiliser). • Give it potash (potassium) instead to encourage flowers. • Be patient with older vines, sometimes they need a couple of seasons of consistent pruning before they really show off. ⸻ Pruning a wisteria isn’t as scary as it looks, don't let it intimidate you. Think of it as giving your plant a regular haircut so it can strut its stuff each spring. 🌸 By keeping to the summer and winter rhythm, you’ll not only enjoy a tidy and well-behaved vine, but also an abundance of blooms come spring. Happy Gardening 😘🌸