What Type of Lawn Do I Have? Identifying Lawn Varieties
- Tammy Johnson
- Sep 28
- 6 min read
Written and edited by Tammy 28th September 2025
Alright, hands up who hasn't stood in the aisle full of weed 'n' feed in the last few weeks and rolled their eyes thinking "**** what type of lawn do I actually have?"🙄
Lawns are the green canvas of our backyards, but not all lawns are created equal. From soft barefoot-friendly buffalo to tough, drought-resistant kikuyu, knowing what type of lawn you have (or what you should choose if you're starting out) can make all the difference in how you care for it.
To put to rest some of the confusion, I've created a guide for you to the most common lawn varieties grown in Australian gardens, including their features, pros and cons, and a few care tips to boot.
(And if you’re here because you’re trying to choose a weed ‘n’ feed? Pay close attention, the type of lawn you’ve got will decide which one you should be using.) 🌱
Buffalo Grass (including Sir Walter Buffalo)
Features:
Broad, soft leaves, lush and green.
Tolerates shade better than most warm-season grasses.
Stays green most of the year in mild climates.
Pros:
Soft underfoot and child-friendly.
Low thatch build-up compared to older buffalo types.
Good shade tolerance (especially Sir Walter).
Cons:
Slower to repair if damaged.
Can be more expensive to establish.
Tips:
Mow to around 40–50mm high.
Fertilise in spring and autumn for best colour.
Avoid scalping, as buffalo doesn’t have underground runners.
Kikuyu
Features:
Fast-growing, hardy, and bright green.
Loves full sun and warm weather.
Self-repairs quickly.
Pros:
Budget-friendly and tough.
Excellent for high-traffic lawns (kids, pets).
Rapid recovery from wear.
Cons:
Can become invasive into garden beds.
Needs regular mowing to stay tidy.
Doesn’t cope well with shade.
Tips:
Mow weekly in summer to keep it in check.
Fertilise more often due to its fast growth.
Use garden edging to stop it spreading into beds.
Couch (e.g. Santa Ana Couch)
Features:
Fine leaf texture, dense carpet-like growth.
Prefers full sun.
Popular for sports fields and golf courses.
Pros:
Hardwearing and fast repairing.
Creates a manicured, “bowling green” look.
Drought tolerant once established.
Cons:
Poor shade tolerance.
Loses colour in winter in cooler climates.
Can build heavy thatch if neglected.
Tips:
Best kept short (12–25mm).
Needs dethatching every few years.
Over-sow with ryegrass in winter for colour if desired.
Tall Fescue
Features:
Cool-season grass with a soft, fine blade.
Stays green year-round in southern Australia.
Tolerates shade reasonably well.
Pros:
Lovely soft feel and lush appearance.
Handles cooler climates better than warm-season lawns.
Doesn’t spread aggressively (clump-forming).
Cons:
Slow to repair bare patches.
Higher water requirements in summer.
Not as tough as kikuyu or couch.
Tips:
Mow a little higher (40–60mm) to reduce stress in summer.
Keep up regular watering during hot weather.
Patch bare spots with seed each autumn.
Ryegrass (often used in blends)
Features:
Cool-season grass, germinates very quickly.
Fine texture and deep green colour.
Commonly mixed with fescue for instant coverage.
Pros:
Fast establishment, great for patching.
Stays green year-round in cooler climates.
Provides winter colour when warm-season lawns go dormant.
Cons:
Shorter lifespan in hot summers.
Needs more mowing and water.
Can thin out quickly without reseeding.
Tips:
Use as a blend rather than stand-alone for longevity.
Reseed in autumn for winter coverage.
Fertilise regularly to maintain colour.
Drought-Tolerant Varieties (e.g. Drought Master blends)
Features:
Usually mixes of couch, kikuyu, or specialty drought-hardy grasses.
Bred for low water use.
Pros:
Excellent choice for water-restricted areas.
Hardwearing and resilient.
Requires less irrigation.
Cons:
May not be as soft underfoot.
Some blends have coarser textures.
Tips:
Still water deeply during establishment.
Use wetting agents in summer to reduce dry patches.
Fertilise lightly to avoid excessive growth.
Clover
Features:
Small-leaved groundcover, soft and cool underfoot.
Stays green with minimal watering.
Fixes nitrogen naturally, enriching the soil.
Pros:
Very low maintenance.
Self-fertilising and resilient.
Attracts bees and pollinators.
Cons:
Doesn’t cope with heavy foot traffic.
Can stain clothes.
Some people prefer the traditional “grass look.”
Tips:
Leave it unmown or mow lightly for a soft carpet effect.
Ideal for low-traffic areas or mixed lawns.
Water sparingly – clover thrives in ordinary conditions.
Naturalised “Lawns” – Clover, Violets, Dichondra & Friends
It’s worth remembering that there’s absolutely nothing wrong with a naturalised lawn either. Clover, violets, dichondra and other creeping groundcovers create a beautiful, meadow-like effect that many gardeners prefer over the manicured look of turf. These varieties of plants often need less mowing, less watering, and little to no fertiliser, making them an eco-friendly choice.
They’re also wonderful for pollinators, bees adore clover flowers, while violets and other small bloomers add seasonal colour. A naturalised lawn may not be the best option for kids to run barefoot across (as clover bees will happily remind you!) but for low-maintenance gardeners wanting beauty, biodiversity, and a softer environmental footprint, they’re a fantastic alternative.
Where Do You Find These Lawn Types?
If you’re starting out fresh, most of these lawn varieties are easy to source in a couple of different ways:
Instant turf (roll-out):Available through turf farms and garden centres. Great if you want that instant “green carpet” look without waiting for seeds to grow. Common with buffalo, kikuyu, couch, and specialty drought-tolerant blends.
Boxed seed mixes: Found in nurseries, hardware garden aisles, and online. Perfect for ryegrass, fescue, clover, and lawn blends. Good for patching existing lawns too.
Punnets or trays of groundcovers: For naturalised options like dichondra or violets, you’ll often find them in the groundcover section of nurseries. They can be planted to spread into a soft, low-maintenance carpet.
Which option you choose really depends on how quickly you want results, your budget, and whether you’re patching up bare spots or starting a whole new lawn from scratch.
A Quick Word on Weed ’n’ Feed Products
Weed ’n’ feeds aren't 'one size fits all', and choosing the wrong one can do more harm than good.
Buffalo caution: Buffalo grasses (including Sir Walter) are sensitive to certain herbicides. Many “all-purpose” weed ’n’ feeds contain dicamba the number one culprit for burning or killing buffalo lawns. Always check the label for “safe for buffalo” before buying.
✅ Safer active ingredients for buffalo lawns include:
Bromoxynil
MCPA (at lower rates, when blended with bromoxynil)
2,4-D (amine salt form)
Bentazone (less common, but buffalo-tolerant)
Broadleaf weeds vs grasses: Weed ’n’ feeds are designed to knock out broadleaf weeds (like bindii, clover, and dandelion) without harming grass. But if your “lawn” is actually clover, violets, or dichondra, avoid using them altogether, they’ll wipe out your groundcover.
Granular vs liquid: Liquids work faster and give even coverage, while granular products are often gentler and longer-lasting.
Right timing: Apply when weeds are actively growing (spring and autumn). Avoid using on heat-stressed lawns in summer, or just before rain.
Bottom line: Always flip the pack over and check the “Active constituents” panel. If it lists dicamba avoid it. If it lists bromoxynil, MCPA (at safe rates), or 2,4-D amine, you’re in safer territory for buffalo lawns.
Final Thoughts
The best lawn for your garden depends on your climate, lifestyle, and how much time you want to spend on maintenance.
For busy families: Kikuyu or Sir Walter Buffalo.
For cooler climates: Tall fescue or ryegrass blends.
For hot, dry regions: Couch or drought-master blends.
For eco-conscious gardeners: Clover, violets, or dichondra.
Choosing wisely at the start will save you hours of work down the track and give you a lawn you’ll actually enjoy walking barefoot on. 🌱
Happy Gardening!😘☘️
✨Bonus✨Buffalo v Kikuyu, which is which🤷♀️
Leaf width & texture:
Buffalo: Wide, flat, soft leaves with smooth edges (nice under bare feet).
Kikuyu: Narrower, slightly more pointed leaves with a coarse feel.
Growth habit:
Buffalo: Grows with above-ground runners (stolons) only. This means it tends to stay where it’s planted and doesn’t creep aggressively.
Kikuyu: Grows with both above and underground runners (stolons + rhizomes) — it’s a spreader! That’s why it creeps into garden beds if not edged.
Colour tone:
Buffalo: Deep, darker green.
Kikuyu: Brighter, almost lime-green in summer.
Shade tolerance:
Buffalo: Handles shade very well (Sir Walter especially).
Kikuyu: Hates shade, thins out quickly if it doesn’t get sun.
Repair rate:
Buffalo: Slower to bounce back from damage.
Kikuyu: Very fast repair, often described as “invasive.”
(If your lawn is forever trying to creep into your garden beds, it’s kikuyu. If it politely stays put, it’s likely buffalo 😁👍)
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