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Cherry Blossoms Written and edited by Tammy 29th June 2024 By now, most fruit trees will have dropped their remaining leaves and transitioned into dormancy making it the perfect time to prune. Without foliage obstructing your view, you can clearly see the branches, buds, and overall shape of the tree, allowing for more precise and effective pruning. And not only that, but, pruning over the period of dormancy (while the tree is not actively growing) minimizes stress on the tree which reduces the risk of disease transmission. Importance of knowing what you're pruning Recognising and being able to identify your fruit buds can save you the costly mistake of unintentionally cutting off the chance for a bumper crop of fruit this Summer. Imagine your heartache. Peaches, Peacharines and Nectarines (Prunus Persica) Apricots. (Prunus Armeniaca) Pears (Pyrus Communis.) Fig (Ficus Carica.) Identifying fruit buds, How do I know what's what?🤷‍♀️ While I don't proclaim to be an expert or able to identify every single detail on all types of trees, I'm going to show you what I do recognise on my own trees and give you my tips for how you can become more confident in recognising what is what on your trees too. ( Click here to jump down to some labelled pics I've taken of my own trees). Probably sounds old fashioned but don't be afraid to grab a few books from the library and study some diagrams before getting started. Make yourself familiar and comfortable with the terminology and anatomy of your tree (the names of its body parts). Have a go at matching up images you've sourced with those on your own tree (as I have here below). Pay attention throughout the season, when you're enjoying a coffee out in your garden, stop and have a good look at your tree. What are the buds opening into right now? Are they bursting into a blossom or unfurling into a leaf? Take some pics there and then and write some notes for yourself to look back on in a few months' time. Share and compare knowledge hints and tips with you family, friends and neighbours, chances are they may have the same trees and may be able to help you, or vice versa. Peaches, Peacharines and Nectarines ( Prunus Persica ) Characteristics on my peach tree in comparison to those in a book. (The example above is my Trixzie ®️ Pixzee Miniature Peach.) I've labelled it to show you the characteristics on my tree in comparison to a diagram in a book. A. is a lateral (or branch if you rather, it comes off the trunk or a previous season's branch). B. is a sprig (a small/minor branch coming off a lateral). C. is a fruit spur at the end of the sprig. D. is a fruit and leaf bud together. E. is a wood and leaf bud. F. is a leaf bud. Self-pollinating, Peaches, Nectarines and Peacharines will fruit on their own without a companion, and tend to fruit on one year old wood, meaning the laterals of the previous season. The 'fatter, fuzzier' buds are generally fruit buds. Leaf buds are smaller, flatter and less significant. Wood spurs are often slender solitude buds normally further back in along the branch prior to the fruit buds. A close up pic here below👇 Close up of fruit & leaf buds. My miniature peach tree. Image above is as follows👆 A, B & D are all plump fuzzy little fruit buds, while C is a leaf bud nestled between the two fruit buds. You'll notice the small round white spots atop each swelling on the lateral, this is where a mature leaf has just recently fallen from. The tiny, pointed, dark things above those, are where a new dormant bud for a following season lives. Apricots. ( Prunus Armeniaca ) Dwarf Divinity Apricot Labelled characteristics of a young Apricot tree.  At the tail end of last season, I bought myself a young dwarf Divinity Apricot as the Apricots in supermarkets always seem flavourless. It's not a very big tree yet to use as an example; nonetheless, it has the correct bits'n'pieces for me to label and describe for you. See the image above👆 A. Both laterals off the main trunk. B. A sprig coming off a lateral containing some leaf buds. C. A fruit bud spur. D. A wood spur. (will become a new sprig). Also self-pollinating, Apricots bear fruit on mature wood and do so for multiple seasons. Once mature, regular pruning is only needed really to keep it tidy, and to encourage it to keep producing new wood for future seasons fruit baring. Fruit buds on Apricot trees aren't fuzzy like those of a peach, though they do still tend to be larger and more obvious than leaf buds. They almost look like little miniature pinecones. They're also often seen in clusters of '3 in 1' like C. in the image above. ** An important thing to remember is that Apricots are highly susceptible to a disease called 'Gummosis'. (It looks a little like glossy hard oozing honey) Once it affects a tree is can be hard to bring back under control so it's crucial that you only ever prune your tree when the weather is fine and dry. Fresh open wounds exposed to moisture are the perfect opportunity for disease to set in. A close up look at those buds👇 Closer up of look at the apricot tree buds. See the image above 👆 A. is a fruit bud spur. B. is the sprig, a little short branch coming off a lateral. C. is a wood bud. A plump little bud that I'm pretty certain is fruit. (I'll confirm that in a few more weeks' time!)  Pears ( Pyrus Communis .) Dwarf red pear. Labelled characteristics. (The example above is my dwarf red pear.) Pears and Apples aren’t self-pollinating meaning they require a compatible companion to produce fruit. I've got ornamental pears in my front yard, and it just so happens they are perfectly fine as companions for cross pollination. Image above is as follows👆 A. 3 year old wood I'm holding between my fingers. B. 2 year old wood. C. 1 year old wood. D. swollen knobbly section known as a bourse. E. Fruit bud. F. Leaf of wood bud. G. Fruit bud. Almost always at the end of a lateral. H. Dormant bud. Pears and Apples being closely related are very similar in their characteristics, both almost always fruit on two year old wood. The swollen looking lumps at the bases of buds are known as a 'Bourse'. You'll notice them where fruit or wood buds have previously been. They will continue to produce more either fruit or wood buds in consecutive years so try to avoid shortening them or removing when pruning. Water shoots, or water sprouts, are non-productive. They emerge vigorously from a dormant bud, and their tendency to grow straight upwards, almost vertically, is a telltale sign of their presence. Dwarf red pear. Further examples of fruit buds. And here again 👆 A. Fruit Bud on 2 year old wood. B. Fruit Bud. C. Bourse on a 3 year old lateral, having produced a wood spur last year, which now has a fruit bud at the end of it this year, it's 2nd year. D. Exactly the same scenario as C. Fig (Ficus Carica.) White Adriatic fig labelled characteristics.  (Example is my white Adriatic Fig tree) Most cultivars of Figs are self-pollinating so you only need one. My particular tree, the White Adriatic is a lower spreading variety which works well in the wine barrel it's in. Image above is as follows👆 A. Fruit bud tucked in beside leaf bud at the terminal point. B. leaf bud. C. Dormant bud beside where a leaf has previously fallen from. D. Exactly the same as C. Fruit commonly forms on last seasons wood at the terminal point of the laterals and sprigs beside the leaf bud. (see both images) That being said, every leaf union has the potential to for a fruit bud. Fig tree close up look at leaf and fruit buds. Image above is as follows 👆 A & B are both fruit buds, while C is a terminal leaf bud. Hopefully the labelled pictures of my trees serve as a useful reference for you. With practice and observation, I promise you'll become more adept at identifying what's what on your own trees too. By investing that time into understanding and recognising their individual characteristics and becoming confident and comfortable with meeting their requirements will enable you to effectively nurture their development and enhance their productivity. 'Happy trees, happy life!' Keep an eye out over the next few months and I'll continue to post some progress pics of my trees as they head into Spring. Keep warm, Happy gardening!😘🌸🌳

Juicy ripe Elberta Peaches Written and edited by Tammy 29th July 2024 Whether you're beginning with a blank canvas for a new fruit orchard, or you've got space for one or two additional trees to complete your collection, deciding which ones to go with can be a little overwhelming, given the varieties available, and new and improved cultivars constantly coming into the market each season. To solve that dilemma and make it easier for you I've compiled a list of what I consider to be the top 20 best fruit trees that I've sold, tasted, tended to and seen growing here in our region year after year. I've included a few details about each one, such as their characteristics, flavour, pollination requirements and ripening times. So, let's dive in! Top 20 best fruit trees Apple Jonathan Apple Granny Smith Apple royal Gala Apple Pink Lady Apricot Moorpark Apricot Divinity Cherry Stella Cherry Lapins Fig White Adriatic Fig Black Genoa Mulberry Dwarf Black Nectarine Goldmine Peach Elberta Peach Anzac Peacharine Pear Packham Pear Dutchess Pear Nashi Plum Satsuma Plum Santa Rosa Apple-Jonathan Johnathon Apples An oldie but a goodie, everyone's favourite, the Jonathan apple. A medium sized, round apple, predominantly red, over a yellow to green background. They're known for their crisp, juicy, sweet, flavour. A good choice for kid's lunchboxes. Pollination Requirements: Requires a companion for pollination. Most suitable: Red Delicious, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith. Maturity: Fruit ripens from early to mid-March. Apple-Granny Smith Granny Smith Apples Australian bred and world renowned, the 'go to' apple for baking the humble apple pie. A large firm, crispy green apple, slightly tart in flavour. Granny Smiths are perfect for baking as they hold their shape well. Pollination Requirements: Partially self-fertile but benefits from cross-pollination with another apple variety like Red Delicious or Pink Lady. Universal pollinator for most other apple varieties. Maturity: Ripens over a long period from April through into May. * Granny Smiths are available as a dwarf, commonly known as 'Leprechaun'®️ Apple-Royal Gala Royal Gala Apples. Royal Galas' are another popular smaller to medium apple, perfect size for the kiddies. Crisp, juicy and sweet, they're stripey red over a creamy yellow background. Pollination Requirements: Partially self-fertile, they benefit from cross-pollination with a Granny Smith, Pink Lady or Red delicious. Also available as a dwarf reaching approximately 2.5m tall, branches may require staking while bearing the weight of fruit. Maturity: Ripens mid to late February, a good option for extending your harvest season, as it ripens earlier than Jonathan. Apple-Pink Lady Pink lady Apples. Pink Lady's, a popular and well-known apple have been right up there amongst the top runners since their release in 1974. A blushing pinkish-red skin colour over a yellow background, they're a lovely, crisp and juicy apple with a sweet-tart flavour. A good choice if you're looking for an apple that keeps well. Equally as good for cooking as eating fresh. Pollination Requirements: They will benefit from a companion such as Gala, Granny Smith or Red Fuji. Maturity: Ripens from mid-April through into May. *A dwarf cultivar of Pink Lady is available, known as 'Pinkabelle'®️. ** Look out for: Red Delicious & Golden Delicious, both classic, well-known varieties having been around for a long time. Both available as dwarfs. Apricot-Moorpark Moorpark Apricots For eating fresh, making jams and dehydrating it doesn't get any better that the classic old favourite Moorpark. When I say old, I mean literally as it's a cultivar that's been around since the 17th century. Moorpark apricots are best known for their rich, sweet flavour with a hint of tartness. Pollination Requirements: They are self-pollinating. Having another apricot tree nearby can increase fruit production, but it's not essential. Maturity: Moorpark apricots typically ripen from late December into January. They prefer a free draining soil and full sun aspect and are also available in a dwarf form. Apricot-Divinity Divinity Apricots If you're looking for a second variety of apricot to be a companion for your Moorpark, look no further than an Early Divinity. Early Divinity are a medium to large oblong shaped fruit, with the flavour being every bit as good as the Moorpark. Pollination Requirements: Early Divinity apricots are also self-pollinating, but again, having a different variety nearby can increase fruit production. Maturity: As the name suggests, Early Divinity ripens almost a month ahead of Moorpark making it a perfect choice for extending your harvest season. *A dwarf cultivar of Early Divinity is available and happens to be what I purchased myself last season. Cherry-Stella Stella Cherries Imagine the pride and satisfaction in being able to pick your own Cherries at Christmas time and not having to pay the exorbitant prices of supermarkets. Well, a Stella cherry tree is what you need. Stellas are known for their sweet flavour and dark red to almost black skin. Needing aprox. 600 chill hours, followed by warm summers for fruit production, our regions climate provides cherries with everything they need to thrive. Pollination Requirements: Stella cherries are self-fertile, meaning they don't require a companion tree for pollination, though as previously mentioned, having a second is never a bad thing. Stellas are also a universal pollinator for most other varieties of cherries. Maturity: Stella cherries typically ripen from mid-December. **A Dwarf cultivar of Stella is also available. Cherry-Lapins Lapins Cherries Just as popular and well known here in our region, if you're considering a second cherry tree or an alternative to Stella, look for a Lapins. Deep red in colour once fully ripe, Lapins are equally as juicy and sweet with hint of tartness. Pollination Requirements: As with Stella, Lapins are self-pollinating, so planting two trees is not necessary, but always advantageous. Maturity: Lapins Cherries are ready to harvest from late December. *As with Stella, Lapins is available in dwarf form. Fig-White Adriatic White Adriatic Figs. My personal favourite, as mine never fails me season after season, the White Adriatic Fig. White Adriatics are distinguishable by their lime green to pale yellow skin when ripe, with soft pink to dark rose flesh inside. Renowned for their taste, they have the sweetest, honeylike, melt in your mouth flavour that makes them perfect for eating fresh, or cooking in deserts and preserves. They grow well here in our region (for anyone else reading this who's further afield, I'm in climate zone 6 a Temperate Mediterranean climate so we have warm dry summers, and our winters are cold and wet). Pollination Requirements: White Adriatics, like most figs are self-fertile so you won't need a second one. Maturity: My figs begin to ripen in the tail end of Summer, and I continue picking them right throughout the Autumn months. Fig-Black Genoa Black Genoa figs If the idea of a white fig isn't for you, an alternative commonly seen here in our region is the Black Genoa. Highly prized by fig enthusiasts for their sweet, rich flavour, Black Genoas are a smaller plump looking fig with a vibrant pink to deep red flesh hidden beneath a purple to black outer skin. Pollination Requirements: As with the White Adriatics, Black Genoas are self-fertile. Maturity: Harvest them from late Summer into Autumn. **Have you ever wanted to have a go at making your own home-made fig jam? Try this one... follow the link here to an EASY recipe 👉 Home made Fig Jam Mulberry Dwarf Black Dwarf black Mulberries. Another favourite of mine that I've never regretted buying is the Dwarf Black Mulberry, you won't get a hardier little tree. If you don't have acres of room, or years to wait for the heritage Old English Black Mulberry to mature, then this one is for you. A prolific bearer of sweet, slightly tart, dark red to black berries. The perfect snack to have a handful of daily for weeks on end. The berries tend to be smaller, firmer and more 'squish resistant' than that of the Old English, that being said they will still make a mess of your hands, clothes and pavers in my case, as my tree in is a large container in my courtyard. Pollination Requirements: Dwarf Mulberries are self-fertile. Maturity: My tree bears fruits twice a year, the first main crop being in late September, and a second smaller crop in late March to April. Nectarine-Goldmine Goldmine Nectarine. For Nectarines, the hands down favourite would be Goldmine. Creamy white flesh beneath a smooth, pinkish red skin. The rich, aromatic flavour sweetens and intensifies as they ripen and soften. They're 'freestone' meaning you should be able to run a knife around the circumference of the fruit at the dented midline and separate the two halves from the stone. Pollination Requirements: Self-pollinating, so you won't require a second one. Maturity: Goldmine nectarines ripen mid to late summer, around February. ** Dwarf cultivars are also available. Peach-Elberta A fruit orchard just wouldn't be complete without a Peach tree or two and the two most common popular peaches are Elberta and Anzac. Elberta Peach Elberta has been a favourite for years. A classic sweet juicy freestone peach, with golden orange flesh beneath a soft, fuzzy, red flushed, yellow skin. A beautiful peach for eating fresh or culinary purposes. Pollination Requirements: Elberta is self-fertile and will produce fruit without a companion. Maturity: Harvest Elberta peaches from mid-February. ** Dwarf cultivar of Elberta is available. Peach-Anzac Anzac Peach Over 100 years old and named in honour of the ANZAC soldiers, the Anzac Peach is well known and highly regarded as one of the best peaches today. A large, round, white fleshed, freestone variety with the sweetest flavour. Anzac having been around for such a long time has a naturally higher resistance to disease, in particular Curl Leaf. Pollination Requirements:  Anzac peaches are self-pollinating, but having another peach tree nearby can improve fruit production. Maturity:  Anzac peaches typically ripen in mid to late summer. *A dwarf cultivar of Anzac is available. **If you like the idea of an old-fashioned type of Peach where the sweet juice runs down your wrist with each mouthful and the flesh clings to the stone, keep an eye of for Golden Queen. Still the number 1 peach used for preserved tinned fruit today. Peacharine Peacharine So you love peaches but find the furry skin off-putting or hate the idea of having the remove the fuzz which sometimes doesn't come off easily? Well perhaps a Peacharine is just the thing for you. A peacharine is basically a cross between a nectarine and a peach, or rather a peach without the fuzz. Firm, yellow flesh beneath dark pink blushed, smooth skin that becomes sweeter as it ripens. Freestone. Pollination Requirements: Self-fertile as with peaches and nectarines, doesn't require a pollinator. Maturity: Expect to be able to harvest then from early to mid-Summer. Pear-Packham Accounting for more than 60% of pears grown in Australia today, Packham Triumph Pear the Packham Triumph was bread by Horticulturist Charles Henry Packham in NSW in the late 1890s. Reliable, prolific fruiters, they're grow well here in our region. The fruit size is medium to large, oblong but chunky and irregular in shape. The flesh is smooth, and creamy white beneath lime green skin that yellows as it ripens. Eat them soft sweet and juicy, or whilst still firmer. I love to slice them aprox. 5mm thick and dry them in my dehydrator. Try to resist eating too many at once though!!! Pollination Requirements: Like most pears, Packhams are sterile and will need another pear of a different variety nearby for pollination. Maturity: Packhams ripen in late February. Pear-Dutchess Dutchess (Williams Bartlett) Pears A European variety, also known as Williams or Bartlett, Dutchess are the second most commonly grown Pear in our region. Slightly smaller and more uniform in their shape and appearance than the Packham, but they're every bit as sweet and juicy. They're the most popular canning variety of pear. Pollination Requirements: Dutchess pears are self-pollinating so perhaps a better choice if you only have room for one. That being said, fruit yields will be even better with a second variety nearby. Maturity: Ripening times for Dutchess Pears are from mid-February. ** Available as a dwarf cultivar. Pear-Nashi Nashi Pear For something a bit different, you can't go past a Nashi. Originating in Eastern Asia Nashis' are next level! A cross between an apple and a pear, Nashis' have the firm, crisp crunch of an apple, with the texture and juiciness of a ripe pear. The flavour can best be described as florally sweet, with a hint citrus. Pollination Requirements: Nashi pears are self-fertile, but cross-pollination from a Dutchess or another Nashi will increase fruit production. Maturity: They typically ripen late Summer in February. Plum-Satsuma Everybody knows of the Satsuma. Satsumas are a medium to large freestone plum, with a small pit in the centre. Dark red flesh beneath, red to almost purple skin, they're best known for their sweet, juicy flavour and the prolific volume of fruit they produce each season. Satsuma Plum. Pollination Requirements: Satsuma plums are self-pollinating, so they don't require a companion. Maturity: Satsuma plums typically ripen mid to late summer. **Satsuma plums are available as a dwarf cultivar as well. Plum-Santa Rosa Santa Rosa is another popular and well-known variety of plum for home gardens. A medium sized, round clingstone plum with a soft, sweet, juicy, yellow flesh beneath a deep red coloured skin. Santa Rosa Plum. Pollination Requirements: Santa Rosa plums are semi self-pollinating but will yield better with another plum tree nearby. They're noted to be a good pollen donor for most other plums. Maturity: Santa Rosa's ripen December. ** Santa Rosa is available as a dwarf. Before you go shopping for your new fruit trees there'll be a few things to take into consideration. Maybe create yourself a list. What type of fruit do you like to eat? What do you find yourself regularly buying in the supermarkets? Pollination requirements. Some trees will require a companion for pollination. How much space do you have? How many trees at most can you fit comfortably within the space? What's your soil quality like? You may need to invest some time and money into improving you soil prior to planting. Irrigation. Hand watering or setting up drippers on timers for consistency and accuracy of water allocations. Protecting your fruit from wildlife. A netted fully enclosed orchard or netting the individual trees. These are the first few that come to my mind and there are quite likely other things that I haven't mentioned that will be a priority to you. Perhaps spend some time having a look at the Balhannah Nurseries , website. They are one of the biggest, longest standing growers and providers of deciduous fruit trees and ornamentals to our region. Almost every single retail supplier you visit right now will have Balhannah trees in stock. They are an amazing company that we would be lost without. Balhannah Nurseries Take advantage of the friendly staff instore where you buy your trees. Go armed with your list and ask questions. That's what we are there for, and more importantly, what we love to do. As always, you're more than welcome to send me a message if you want to know more. Have a wonderful week, Happy Gardening! 😘🍏🍎

Meyer Lemon Marmalade written and edited by Tammy 1st September 2024 You’ve heard me say it before and I’ll say it again, “when life gives you lemons…. “well have you ever tried Marmalade? Citrus lovers will most likely have tried it and love it as I do but for those who don’t know, marmalade is the most divine, sweet, tangy preserve you could ever imagine spreading on a crunchy slice of hot toast or dolloped over icecream. History of Marmalade History of the Meyer Lemon Size and Growing Preferences Fruit Description Where you'll find them Meyer Marmalade Recipe History of Marmalade Marmalade recipes go back as far as the 1500s where the Portuguese used quinces (known as marmelo) to make their preserves, then as time passed Seville oranges took centre stage. Now the relevance marmalade has to my gardening blog has everything to do with my Meyer Lemon tree-well actually I have two! A beautiful specimen in my front garden and a dwarf Meyer branded “Lots a lemons” in a pot. My Meyer lemon tree Meyer is not the lemon you will find a wedge of wrapped in with your fish n chips but it is hands down the sweetest, juiciest lemon of them all, making it the most suitable variety for marmalade. (and I LOVE squeezing them over my fish n chips!) History of the Meyer Lemon A Hybrid, said to be a cross between a lemon and an orange that found its way to the US from Beijing China back in 1908 thanks to a US Dept of Agriculture plant explorer, Frank Meyer. ( Improved Meyer lemon | Givaudan Citrus Variety Collection at UCR ) Size & Growing Preferences A smaller more compact tree than other varieties, it potentially reaches 2.5m x 2.5m and thrives in full sun. Prefers a quality, free draining, loamy soil, slightly on the acidic side. As with most varieties of citrus they are gross feeders. I regularly provide mine with a combination of fertilisers , liquids, organics, and animal manures in mulch form. Known for being hardier and more adaptable that other varieties of lemon, it’s a popular, good choice for the home garden. Fruit Description The fruit itself is small to medium, rounded in size with a smooth orangey yellow thin skin covering a golden yellow juicy flesh. Fresh cut lemons Where you'll find them The smooth thinner skin of the Meyer leaves them more susceptible to damage and bruising in transit hence they’ve never had the mass market appeal of say the Lisbon or Eureka, so you won’t find the Meyer on supermarket shelves. Where you WILL find them though with the prolific volume of fruit they produce almost all year round, is at your local home growers markets, buy swap sell pages and home doorsteps with signs saying “Free lemons, take some”. It honestly doesn’t get any better than that, the winner for me is the Meyer. Attached is the link to the recipe I used. Meyer Lemon Marmalade https://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/meyer_lemon_marmalade/ The most time consuming part was chopping and preparing the lemons but other than that it was very easy and SO worth the effort! Enjoy the first day of Spring! Happy Gardening😘🍋

Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum Written and edited by Tammy 7th September 2024 Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum would have to be one of my favourite plants I recommend time and time again, when asked for something pretty, but hardy and adaptable. Convolvulus Cneorum Convolvulaceae, commonly known as the 'Morning Glory' family of flowering plants, mostly comprises herbaceous climbing vines, but Cneorum is one of only a few that are a dense, bushy, spreading shrub. Native to the mediterranean regions, they prefer alkaline soil, a full sun to part shade aspect, and good drainage. They stand up well to the cold and are tolerative of hot, dry periods. Size wise, they form a nice, dense mound, of approximately 60cm tall and upto 120cm wide. Convolvulus Cneorum is well known is the landscaping world for being a winner of the Royal horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit for its outstanding qualities and landscape performance. To see it in full bloom covered in masses of beautiful, vibrant white flowers on soft silvery grey foliage, you can appreciate how versatile it really is, in that it will suit anything from cottage style gardens and rockeries to mass plantings for borders. Instead of annuals that need to be replaced each season, try planting some silver bush in pots or hanging baskets as a feature or mobile display that can be moved from one spot to the next for a pop of colour that will continue to bloom for months and months on end. Convolvulus Cneorum Next time you're in Naracoorte, drive past the new Mitre 10, look for it growing beneath the ornamental flowering plums Prunus 'Crimson Spire' in the carpark garden beds. I planted them there almost 18 months ago when our store opened as small plants no larger than potted colour. (3 plants per 6 meters) You'll see they're well on the way to reaching their mature size now, and as I hoped, they contrast beautifully with the burgundy foliage of the flowering plums. Other than the initial watering them in, and a seasonal handful of Rapid Raiser, they're thriving of whatever Mother Nature provides them with. They've stood up to the 40 degree days we had at the end of last summer, and the frosts we had in the tail end of this winter. They really are a winner. Covolvulus growing beneath Ornamental Plums The perfect plant ticking all the boxes for ease of care, hardiness and masses of colour. Add this one to your garden wish list today. Happy Gardening! 😘🪴 Other Posts You Might Enjoy Flowering ornamental plums When is the Best Time to Fertilise Your Garden and What Products Should You Use? “Is it too soon to fertilise yet?" If you’re hesitating and unsure, the answer is no… not at all! With everything beginning to wake from dormancy, now is the most important time of the year to start fertilising. Elberta Peaches Top 20 Best Fruit Trees Guide Whether you're beginning with a blank canvas for a new fruit orchard, or you've got space for one or two additional trees to complete your collection, deciding which ones to go with can be a little overwhelming. To solve that dilemma and make it easier for you I've compiled a list of what I consider to be the top 20 best fruit trees. Hedging shears Beginners guide to Pruning tools-which one to use! Pruning is one of those jobs that all gardeners need to do at some point whether you have a conservative little courtyard or a sprawling landscaped masterpiece. But where do you start? which tool is for what??" Let's go through a few and see if I can help solve some of the confusion. Spring Frosts How Frost Affects Plants & Tips for Preventing Frostburn Frosts are among the greatest adversaries for gardeners throughout the colder months. Days with clear, sunny skies often lead to subzero temperatures overnight, causing frosts to occur. Without being pro-active and having measures in place, the results can be detrimental. Fertilisers Which fertiliser should I use?🤷‍♀️ One of the most important jobs at the top of everyone's 'to do list' right now is to feed your gardens. Whether it's your roses, lawns, garden beds, fruit trees or indoor plants, they're all going to need to be fed. It can be confusing trying to decide which fertiliser should I use with so many available on the market. There are five main types of fertilisers that each have their own purpose and circumstances for use.

Agave Havardiana 'Harvard' Written and edited by Tammy 3rd January 2025 When it comes to searching for plants for your garden that are, hardy, drought tolerant, frost tolerant all the while looking smart and stylish in design, look for plants with silver or grey coloured foliage. But “why grey, what's so good about it?” You’ll notice silver or grey coloured plants have either fine soft hairy foliage, a tough leathery surface or a waxy coating. Often, they’ll have smaller, fine of even needle like leaves. It’s these features that are attributed to the plant’s place of origin, mostly a hot arid climate, and are its defence mechanisms or coping strategies for that climate it originates. Frost tolerance- fine hairs or a waxy coating prevent frost from being able to make contact with the plant’s leaf or stem surfaces. Bit like the plant has its own coat of armour on! Drought resistance- the finer the foliage the lesser the demand for water is, in comparison to large lush leafy green foliage. Makes sense! Temperature extremes- less leaf surface and foliage exposed to direct sun also equals less opportunity for sun burn. The same applies to plants with a waxy or leathery exterior. You can liken it to the plant having its on natural sunscreen on. I've put together a list here for you of some of my favourites. 12 best silver grey foliage plants Pigs Ears, Cotyledon Orbiculata   Silver Spurflower Plectranthus Argenttatus Liquorice plant Helichrysum petiolare Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum   Lamb's Ears Stachys byzantina Silver Dust, Dusty Miller or Silver Ragwort Senecio cineraria   ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ Eremophila Glabra Angels wings Scenecio candicans Native Coastal Rosemary 'Smokey' Westringia Fruticosa   Silver Cushion Bush Calocephalus Brownii Salt bush 'Grey Edge' Rhagodia parabolica   English Lavender Lavendula angustifolia   Cotyedon Orbiculata Pigs Ears Pigs Ears, Cotyledon Orbiculata Commonly known as Pigs Ears, Cotyledon Orbiculata is striking succulent with large, waxy, silver white leaves potentially reaching 1m x 1m in height and width. A perfect plant for a standout contrast of colour in garden beds or rockeries, or you could even use it in pots and containers. It contrasts beautifully against the strappy red phormiums pictured here above. Being a succulent it's also EASY peezy to propagate making them good value. Plectranthus Argentatus Spurflower Plectranthus Silver Spurflower With velvet-like soft grey, foliage, Plectranthus Argenttatus Silver Spurflower will happily grow Indoors in a bright, well-lit room just as happily as it will outdoors. Prefers a good organic, free draining, sandy loam. Add it to a beautiful big urn as a feature or showcase it as an underplanting beneath a lovely big shade tree. Reaching approximately 60cm -1m in height and equally as wide, striking mauve or white flower spires bloom throughout the warmer months. Helichrysum Petiolare Licorice Plant Helichrysum Petiolare Licorice Plant Helichrysum petiolare , commonly known as Liquorice plant is a fantastic little spreading ground cover that grows to around 50cm tall by 1.5 meters wide. Small fleshy green leaves covered with silvery white fuzz are complimented by dainty white flowers in the warmer months. Perfect for edges, border and fillers. Reaches approximately 50cm in height and can spread upto 1.5m wide. Convolvulus Cneorum Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum Silver Bush. This one is definitely a standout performer and has won awards rightly so. A dense, bushy, spreading shrub covered in masses of glory type white flowers right throughout the warmer months. Grows to approximately 60cm tall x 1.5meters wide, the perfect plant suited to all situations from borders, edges, mass displays, containers and pots. Extremely good drought tolerance once established. (This is the one I've mass planted throughout the Naracoorte K&B Mitre 10 car park garden beds. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/silver-bush-convolvulus-cneorum ) Stachys Byzantina Lambs Ears Stachys byzantina Lambs Ears Stachys byzantina , Lamb's Ears, a beautiful quirky little ground cover well known for its velvety, soft, fuzzy leaves, truly resembling lambs' ears. A quick spreader that thrives in full sun, and well-drained soils. Reaching aprox 30-50cm tall and spreads upto 1m or more. Giving it a regular drink and the occasional light trim back over the warmer months will keep it looking good and prevent it becoming leggy. Makes for a lovely mass planted filler. Scenecio Cineraria Silver Dust Senecio cineraria  Silver Dust Senecio cineraria Silver Dust, Dusty Miller or Silver Ragwort. This one always reminds me of snow flakes. A small compact hardy shrub growing to only around 30cm in height and width. Occasional clusters of small yellow insignificant flowers in Spring, but its prized feature really is its silvery white foliage. Prefers full sun to partial shade in free draining, sandy or loamy soils. Moderate water requirements but does like to dry out between drinks. Tolerative of the cold but can be a little frost sensitive. Propagates easily from seed.  Perfect pop of contrasting colour and texture for pots, containers, and cottage garden beds. Eremophila Glabra Kalbarri Carpet Eremophila Glabra ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ Eremophila Glabra ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ An award winning, hardy Australian native ground cover, d istinguishable by its fine, narrow, silvery grey foliage, and slender, tubular, yellow flowers throughout Spring and Summer. Thrives in an arid climate and tolerative of drought conditions. Prefers a full sun aspect in well-drained sandy or loamy soils and has low water requirements once established. Reaching 30-40cm in height and spreading up to 2m, its perfect for dry native landscape style gardens and better still, ideal for preventing and overcoming soil erosion.  Birds, native wildlife and pollinators will thank you for planting natives too as you'll be providing them with a source of food and shelter. Scenecio Candicans Angel's Wings Scenecio candicans  Angels wings Scenecio candicans Angels wings are a real show-stopper with their large, heart shaped, velvety silver white foliage. The leaves themselves, you could almost liken them to that of the Liquorice plant I also rated here just prior..... only a lot larger! A popular choice for indoors and outdoors not only for their striking foliage, but for their ability to purify the air as well. Their bushy, compact growth habit sees them reaching potentially 30-90cm tall and equally as wide. Loves a bright indirect light if inside and a morning sun to part shade if outside. Think of that spot beneath a beautiful big shade tree that sees the early to mid-day sun. A free draining soil or potting medium is ideal, and only water when the top inch of soil is dry. Susceptible to root rot if over watered and not keen on frosts either. Senecios' are a succulent, so think of the requirements of your other succulents. Perfect plant to use as a 'filler' under planting to go with something taller, in a "thrill, fill & spill' large urn, pot or container. Let your imagination go wild! (Have to say I love love love Scenecio Serpens 'Blue Chalk sticks' too in mass plantings. Another real architectural one 😁🪴) Westringia Fruticosa Smokey Var. Westringia Fruticosa ‘Smokey’ Westringia Fruticosa 'Smokey' also known as a native coastal rosemary. Westringias' come in a large variety of cultivars, each one unique in the shape, size and colour growth habits. Smokey is a lovely, variegated form with dainty white to pale mauve flowers from Spring through into Summer. It has a dense, bushy, compact growth habit reaching between 1 to 1.5 meters tall and wide. A warm arid climate plant, they prefer full sun to part shade, and a well-drained sandy to sandy loan soil. Drought-tolerant once established, a moderate watering is all they need over long dry periods. Perfectly suited to coastal gardens, borders and hedges, and even more so if attracting, birds, bees and pollinators is a priority for you too. Calocephalus Brownii Cushion Bush Calocephalus Brownii Silver Cushion Bush Calocephalus Brownii Silver Cushion Bush. With fine needle like, hairy silver foliage, how perfect does this specimen look above in a garden here in Naracoorte. It contrasts and beautifully compliments the gnarly old tree limb it's nestled beside as though it's just meant to be there. The owner has many of them growing throughout her primarily native garden with them thriving in a full sun aspect, in a free draining pure sand soil. Drought-tolerant once established; particularly with an insulating layer of mulch as she has, the bare minimum of water is all that is required. Commonly used in gardens and landscapes for its attractive foliage, they tend to reach somewhere between 30 and 90cm in height and width. They truly look striking as a stand-alone feature in a garden as this one does, but they would look equally as amazing to see a hedge created with them or even in a large rustic urn. Rhagodia Parabolica Salt Bush Rhagodia parabolica  Salt bush 'Grey Edge' Rhagodia parabolica Salt bush 'Grey Edge'. Any list of grey foliage plants just wouldn't be complete without a salt bush. It doesn't get any hardier. This particular plant just happens to be growing no more than three meters away from the Cushion Bush pictured above, evidently, its growing preferences are the same. They are thriving!! Grey Edge grows to a height of 1 to 2 meters, is drought-tolerant once established; and only requires the occasional watering during prolonged dry spells. Prefers full sun, well-drained sandy or loamy soils; and is tolerative of alkaline saline soils too. Ideal for soil stabilization in coastal or erosion-prone areas. Popular in landscaping for its appealing foliage and form. Lavendula Angustifolia Eng. Lavender Fields of English Lavender Lavendula angustifolia English Lavender . There are so many cultivars of English Lavender available, including 'Munstead', 'Hidcote', and 'Royal Purple', each with unique characteristics. Typically grows between 1 to 3 feet tall, depending on the variety. Produces spikes of small purple flowers that bloom in summer, attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies. It features narrow, grey-green leaves that are aromatic when crushed, and thrives in full sun, free draining, sandy or even gravelly soils. Lavender might not be exactly a 'silver/grey' foliage plant but I'm still adding it to my list of favourites as it's right up there amongst them for every other reason and some. Even if grey plants aren't your thing from a colour palate perspective, don't dismiss them until you've done some research. Tough, drought hardy plants like these are already well adapted and suited to our climate. Their lower water requirements will not only save you hip pocket but help take the pressure off of our environment and precious resources too. Keep cool and have a wonderful weekend! Happy Gardening! 😘🪴 Other related posts you may like How to save water in the garden Watering lawns  There are lots of simple measures we can take to save water in our gardens potentially saving us hundreds of dollars a year. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/how-to-save-water-in-the-garden Help! My plants are burnt and crispy Burnt foliage burnt foliage is just one of those unfortunate things that happens from time to time. Try a few of these tips, hopefully they'll help. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/saving-burnt-crispy-plants Hard water-The cold, hard facts. Hard water If you see crusting on top of your soil surrounding your plants or a white residue on the leaves then they proceed to yellow and burn, there's a pretty good chance hard water will be a major contributing factor. So what can we do? https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/hard-water-the-cold-hard-facts https://amzn.asia/d/0ECXcz6

Delicate shade loving plants Watch any gardening shows on tv, and you’ll often hear them use the term ‘Microclimate’ but what IS a microclimate?? The term microclimate refers to a small area where the climate conditions differ from the surrounding area. Sunlight exposure, wind patterns, soil types, or proximity to structures are all contributing factors. Let me give you an example…. A large, advanced Morten Bay Fig tree growing in a full sun location exposed to prevailing winds… that’s the growing conditions it’s subject to, and the climate it’s growing within. Now if a collection of Hellebores' and Hosta's were growing at the base of that tree in rich, organic composted soil, protected from the winds by the large exposed roots, and fully shaded and sheltered by the huge canopy of dense foliage, they would be growing within their own climate, full shade and sheltered, and potentially a couple of degrees cooler too as the intensity of the suns heat would be less harsh beneath the dense thick canopy. One small, contained climate co-existing within another larger completely different climate, a micro-climate. **Benefits of growing plants within a micro-climate: ** 1. **Extended Growing Season: **If you're lucky enough to own a 'hot-house/ green-house', you can grow vegetables that might otherwise be out of season, almost all year round. Plants that require warmer temperatures often begin start to struggle once the days become cooler and shorter. A green-house acts as a microclimate trapping heat from the days sun within and insulating them from the cold allowing them to grow well beyond their typical season. This is how large commercial plant suppliers grow stock to provide to the retail outlets. Tomatoes growing within a green house. 2. **Protection from Harsh Conditions: ** Plants that are sensitive to strong winds or frost can be sheltered in a microclimate, providing them with a more suitable environment to grow. Think of the hellebores' example I just described above. You couldn’t grow the delicate little babies tears ground cover out in dry sandy soil in the hot sun, but if you planted a large shade tree, improved the soil beneath it, and grew some lovely dense perennials, there’s a good chance the babies tears might grow protected there in beneath the perennials. 3. **Diverse Plant Selection: ** By creating different microclimates within your garden, you can experiment in growing a wider variety of plants that may not be able to survive in the overall climate of your region. 4. **Optimal Growing Conditions: ** Microclimates can offer ideal conditions for specific plants, such as increased humidity, reduced sunlight exposure, or better drainage, leading to healthier growth. The little ferns growing within the terrarium below are growing within their own microclimate. They wouldn't be exposed the fluctuations in temperature within the house, cold draughts in the winter, or warm dry air from the fire. The moisture, humidity and temperature would be maintained and consistent. The perfect example of a microclimate. Tiny ferns within a terrarium, a micro-climate. A dear friend of mine has a beautiful new home built less than 10 years ago on their farm. When the house was first built quite literally in the middle of a paddock, there was not so much as a tree or twig. There was no protection from the constant prevailing winds and her soil was ( and still is) a heavy sticky black clay that becomes sodden in winter with the shallow water table and shrinks and cracks in summer leaving her with canyons a small dog could get lost down. The first thing she did was to establish a good, dense shelter belt of now large, advanced trees to completely surround the house. Fast forward to now, the mature trees provide almost total protection from the winds, the under-plantings of annuals and perennials have shade from the harsh summer sun, and many a season of top dressing her garden beds with generous layers of pea straw and rich organic matter has seen her have good, deep beds of nutrient rich top soil to plant into. She's essentially created a completely different climate within her yard to that of outside her yard, a microclimate. Michelle’s Garden A small section of her lovely garden that was once an empty barren paddock. Delicate plants growing in the under canopy. Next time you fall in-love with a plant but think you can’t have it because you can’t provide it with the growing conditions it needs, try to come up with a solution to get around those constraints. When it comes to gardening, anything is possible, sometimes we just need to think outside of the square. Happy Gardening 😘🪴

Rosemary Officinalis Written and edited by Tammy 24th April 2025 Rosemary: The Fragrant Herb of Remembrance and Resilience. It's one of the most commonly sort after, popular plants in most Aussies gardens but its more than just a kitchen staple. Rosemary Rosmarinus Officinalis , now officially classified under the name Salvia Rosmarinus, has a rich history that spans continents and centuries. But here in Australia and New Zealand, rosemary carries a special meaning close to the heart. A Symbol of Remembrance During ANZAC Day services across Australia and New Zealand, sprigs of rosemary are often worn to honour the memory of those who served and sacrificed for us. Why rosemary? Legend has it that the herb grew wild on the Gallipoli peninsula, where so many ANZAC soldiers fought bravely in 1915. Its strong, clean fragrance and evergreen nature made it a fitting emblem of enduring memory and loyalty. Rosemary Rosmarinus Officinalis-the short and tall. Originating from the Mediterranean, Rosemary grows extremely well here in our region, a cool temperate climate. Our long hot dry Summers and winter frosts don't phase the plant at all. Both having different uses, two of the most common varieties of Rosemary grown are, 'Tuscan Blue’ and ‘ Prostratus’ or ground cover Rosemary. Tuscan Blue is perhaps the most popular form, known for its neat, tall upright growth habit. It's this that makes it such a popular choice for borders and hedging in home gardens. The simplicity of mass plantings always oozes elegance and grandeur. Prostratus, ground cover or trailing rosemary, on the other hand is often used in pots, hanging baskets or as ground cover spilling over the edges of rockeries. As with Tuscan Blue, its aromatics and flavour are excellent for seasoning mediterranean inspired dishes. The classic and iconic roast leg of lamb just wouldn't be complete without it. Each variety of rosemary brings its own unique characteristics to both our cooking, and our gardens. Tuscan Rosemary A few growing tips to get you started Rosemary thrives in full sun. Find it a nice, sunny spot where it can soak up at least 6–8 hours a day. Well-drained soil is key: Rosemary doesn’t like wet feet, so sandy or loamy soil with good drainage is ideal. Minimal fuss: Once established, rosemary is drought-tolerant and low maintenance, it's water requirements are minimal. Ideal for pots and containers: If space is tight or frost is a concern, grow rosemary in a pot or container so you can bring it under cover in extreme weather. Keep it right by the back door for not only its looks and fragrance, but the convenience of it being on hand for culinary use. Prune for shape and health: A light trim after flowering will keep your plant bushy and prevent it from getting woody. Fertilise- with a quality organic all-purpose fertiliser to aid new seasons growth. Whether you’re using rosemary to bring structure and formality to your garden, or to quite simply season the humble roast potatoes, let it allow you to stop for a moment to honour the ANZAC spirit, its a living legacy. Enjoy your gardens 😘🪴 Least we forget

Fresh Garlic Written and edited by Tammy 6th April 2024 ( Allium sativum) Garlic. If you're contemplating, "how hard is it to grow garlic?"......the answer is simple, it's easy! Follow these basic steps and never buy supermarket garlic again.    ** Growing garlic steps to success ** Seed source How much do I need to plant? When is the right time to plant it? Growing requirements. Spacing and depth- how far apart, and how deep to plant them. Ongoing maintenance. When and how to harvest. Health benefits and uses for garlic. Seed source. Once you've decided to have a go at growing your own garlic, take the time to find yourself some quality Australian owned/grown produced seed garlic. Here are a couple of very good reasons why... For one, there's no guarantee how old garlic purchased from in the supermarket is, particularly if it has come from overseas, it could already be months old. Garlic from overseas is often treated with Methyl bromide to prevent pests and disease. And if you think that sounds like something nasty that's because it is.   Methyl bromide is a toxic fumigant no longer used here in Australia due to its hazardous properties. Even if it is Australian produced, garlic grown for the supermarket shelves is most aways pre-treated with growth inhibitors to prevent it from shooting. How much do I need to plant? It's pretty simple, think of it like this.... 1 clove of garlic produces 1 new plant. Each new plant produces roughly 10 to 12 new cloves. So theoretically, 10 cloves planted should net you, 10 new plants equalling 100 individual cloves. Always better to have too much than not enough I say! And remember, from what you grow, not only do you want enough to enjoy eating for the season, but you want to be able to save the same quantity for growing again next season. Ultimately you should never have to buy garlic again. When is the perfect time to plant garlic? Kinda any time now! Garlic, not unlike any other bulb, needs the cold to promote growth. As we head into Autumn there's still nice warmth in the soil, but the temperatures are dropping, and the day lengths are shortening. We've come to know of this as the perfect time for bulbs. Garlic needs 8-9 months to grow and reach maturity, so planting it now in Autumn between March and May means you'll be harvesting between November and January. Some folks say, "Sow on Anzac Day and Harvest on Cup Day". If that makes it easier for you to remember, then there's no harm in that. Growing requirements. Garlic needs plenty of sun, it won't grow in a shaded spot under trees. Find a good sunny spot in your yard or if that's not possible, grow it in a large pot or container. The advantage of growing in a pot or container is that you can plant straight into the perfect potting medium, drainage won't be an issue, and you can move it around your yard if need be. It does prefer a free draining, good rich organic environment. If you're sowing it into the ground add plenty of compost and good handful of blood and bone prior. TIP** Remember to rotate your crops to avoid build-up of soil born disease, aim for a 3-year rotation. Don't go back into the same spot with the same vegetable year after year. Spacing and depth. Soil prepared and ready to go. Break open the bulb if it's not already separated out into cloves. Set aside any tiny cloves too small to plant. Prepare a diluted solution of Seasol complete garden and Health treatment in a container and soak the cloves overnight. Pre-soaking the cloves in Seasol with give them a massive head start. Not only will it invigorate them and stimulate growth, but it will also boost their resistance to pests and disease. Once drained, dried off and ready to go you can begin sowing them. Give each clove approximately 15cm space between them and sow them down to a depth of no more than 4-6cm with the pointed end facing up and the rounded end facing down. Ongoing maintenance. Water them in with a little more Seasol. This should see them off to a really good start. Feed them at fortnightly intervals with a soluble fertiliser, Seasol powerFeed, and every couple of months apply some organic pelletised fertiliser of your choice, some Dynamic Lifter or Rapid Raiser, both good choices. If seasonal rain is plentiful, you won't need to water too often. Be mindful not to let them become waterlogged or they'll be susceptible to rotting. Keep on top of weed control, pull out weeds as they emerge to keep the garlic bed weed free. Monitor closely for evidence of pests and fungal issues such as aphids, rust or white spot. Where present treat with a natural organic fungicide or insecticide. You don't have to always turn to a store-bought product either, look at what's in your own pantry, Bicarb Soda can be a gardeners best friend! Combine 1 tablespoon of bicarb, in a couple of litres of water and treat with that. Often just as successful, kind to the environment and even kinder on your wallet. When and how to harvest. Around 8-9 months after sowing, the foliage will begin to yellow and die back. Stop watering 3-4 weeks prior to allow the skins to dry and tighten a little then they'll be ready to harvest. Use a garden fork (not too close to the bulbs or you'll risk damaging them) to dig down and lift to loosen the soil. This should make it easier to free them from the soil. Trim the excess roots and leaves to tidy them up. Secure them into bunches by the stems, and hang them in a warm, airy location away from direct light for at least 3-5 weeks to dry. Failing to dry them properly will risk them not storing, spoiling and going mouldy. Done properly they should store well for up to 12 months. Health benefits and uses for garlic. You could write a book about it, in fact I'm quite certain there ARE books and articles exclusively on the uses and benefits of garlic, so I won't go into that. Safe to say, garlic IS good for you. It's amazing anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and immune boosting properties have been tried and tested for centuries. And from a culinary perspective, what CAN'T you do with it. It finds its way into my own diet almost daily, whether it be a sneaky chunk off the end of a stick of Kalleske's Mettwurst in my fridge, or in the Garlic infused extra virgin olive oil drizzled on my salad. And I'm quite sure I'm not alone. Garlic Nature's perfect prescription Garlic recipes If you're here in my part of the world, grab yourself a pack of 'Good Aussie Garlic' seed. Proudly grown and produced right here in our own backyard....50 minutes down the road in Bordertown SA. Check out their website, you'll find Rachel and Wade's contact details there. EDIT *** Good Aussie Garlic are sold out for the 2025 growing season😔 Good Aussie Garlic Logo Grown at home garlic! ( goodaussiegarlic.biz ) Happy Gardening 😘🌸 You might also be interested in…👇 https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/treating-caterpillars-on-brassicas-101 https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/spring-flowering-bulbs https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/successfully-growing-seedlings

Snowflakes Written and edited by Tammy 29th March 2025 Autumn is undoubtedly one of the nicest times of the year to enjoy our gardens. Leaves on deciduous trees transition through stunning shades of red, orange, yellow, and brown. Gardens everywhere take on an almost serene feel, that feeling of winding down...a deep sigh. But it's not time to wind down.... with the hot days finally becoming fewer it's the perfect time to get back out in the garden and start prepping for and planting those spring flowering bulbs. Why's it important to plant them now? Good question. The shortening day lengths sees our soils begin to cool, so planting now gives spring bulbs the optimal chill time they need to produce those stunning blooms. Most bulbs need somewhere between 12-16 weeks to chill, if you're in a cool climate like we are here in the lower SE of South Australia, there's no need to chill the likes of tulips in the fridge, our winter ground temperatures are adequate. ("Chilling" or chill time is the equivalent of, or alternative terminology for dormancy). They need a period of dormancy before awakening in Spring. How do I plant them? Another good question. The golden rule, to achieve that nice full look, is to plant your bulbs 'cheek to cheek' (just touching one another), and at a depth of two to three times the width of the bulb. A nice, large round daffodil is probably going to be between 3 to 4 inches deep down, whereas a little freesia may be barely 1 inch down. Feeding them If sowing them into your garden beds, improve your soil first by incorporating some well-aged animal manure or compost, and some blood and bone. Once they're sown, top dress with a handful of organic all-purpose balanced fertiliser, my favourite is Neutrog Rapid Raiser. Providing them with nutrition at the time of sowing means it's there in the ground ready for them to utilise as soon as they awaken from dormancy. Hydration Settle them in with a good drink of water and a dash of Seasol Health treatment for good measure. Continue to water them at regular intervals to maintain just enough moisture, but without leaving them waterlogged. Mulch Make sure you apply a layer of mulch once they're settled in. The mulch does multiple things. It helps to maintain the level of moisture in the ground, and more importantly it acts as an insulation blanket, preventing them from being affected by frosts and extreme dips in temperature. Autumn flowering Belladonnas Bella Belladonna Easter Lillies. We can’t not mention this Autumn flowering beauty, Amaryllis Belladonna, also known as Easter Lilies or Naked Ladies. It’s not Easter until you spot these darlings showing their pretty faces randomly along the road sides. From late Summer into Autumn, classic, large lily style pink to white flowers sit high atop of tall stems well before the leaves appear. Long, slender glossy green leaves emerge well after the flowers finish. Native to South Africa, but naturalised throughout most parts of Australia, they’re extremely hardy, and drought tolerative. Like most bulbs they multiply. There’s no need to lift or disturb them, in time, they go on to form large clumps that can later be divided. Their preference is for well drained, lighter soils (hence they’re seen to be thriving in areas of sandy soils throughout our region, south east of SA), hot dry summers and wet winters. Spring flowering bulbs The variety of bulbs to choose from is endless! Snowflakes, Daffodils, Freesias, Irises, Tulips, Ranunculi, Hyacinth, Anemones and more, you really can have some fun. A little Inspiration 🌷 Dressing up an otherwise empty dull corner of a courtyard or patio with a lovely large pot planted up with an assortment of bulbs and other complimentary cascading perennials can really brighten things up, bringing it to life. There are a few advantages to planting bulbs in pots and containers. They'll be mobile! You can move them around to suit your mood. You’ll know exactly where your babies are. There's no chance you'll accidentally chop them up or lose them digging around in the garden throughout the rest of the year. Finally, Bulbs need good quality, moist but free draining soil. Planting them in containers in a premium potting medium will ensure they get this. You've heard the expression ‘less is more’? Keep it simple. Try mass displays of only one or two contrasting colours to create a real wow factor. Mass planting of blue and white Hyacinth illustration There's also nothing wrong with scattering them randomly or in clumps throughout your garden beds, making for a lovely surprise when they reappear the following season. Kindy's and Primary schools often run bulb fundraisers early in the new year. It's a great opportunity to stock up on some bulbs while supporting the schools at the same time. If the kids are past that age, you'll find most of your major leading outlets start stocking them in early Autumn, which for us here is now. There never really is a quiet time of the year in the gardens as there's always something to prepare, prune, plant, lift, divide or just shuffle around. Maybe I've inspired you even just a little, if you've got some spare empty pots, or space in the garden, grab yourself some bulbs and get planting. Happy Gardening!😘🌹🌸

Interveinal chlorosis on my peach tree A common issue we all deal with at some stage as gardeners is yellowing foliage. Take a look at the example pictured above, it's my own Trixzee™️ Miniature Peach tree which always looks amazing, lush and green each season, but, for some reason in the last 6 weeks it's turned a horrifying yellow colour. There are a number of possibilities. To better understand what causes yellowing let's back up a little first and look at how and why plants are green. Healthy plants produce chlorophyll, chlorophyll is the pigment responsible for them appearing green. Plants need to be green to be able to photosynthesise, it's how they harness energy from the sun to generate food for themselves. Possibility 1 - Incorrect pH If the pH is too high (Alkaline) or too low (Acidic) this will result in either 'nutrient lock up' an inability for the plant to access nutrients from the soil, or toxicity , essentially poisoning the plant. Symptoms Not only might the plant appear yellow, but it could possibly have burnt crispy leaf margins, possibly be stunted in growth and overall, be performing poorly. Remedy Determine the soil pH with a soil pH test kit and amend with either Elemental Sulphur if it's too Alkaline or Dolomite Lime if it's too Acidic to bring it back to within the ideal range recommended for the plant. Once the plant is back within its recommended pH range it will be better able to derive nutrients from the soil when you feed it. Possibility 2 -Hunger, lack of nutrients Plants use a massive amount of energy and nutrients Nitrogen Phosphorus and Potassium (NPK) to grow and bear fruit and flowers. Reason A plant may be hungry and lacking in nutrients due to it not having been fertilised, it's ran out of nutrients as it's taken up all that was there available, or perhaps recent heavy rains has leeched the nutrients from the soil. A lack of nutrients can be responsible for yellowing. Remedy Apply a soluble fertiliser such as Seasol Powerfeed weekly to fortnightly alongside a quality organic pelletised fertiliser such as Neutrog Rapid Raiser. The soluble fertiliser will benefit the plant by being taken up straight away, and the pellets will be taken in gradually as they break down. Possibility 3 - Magnesium deficiency Magnesium, a secondary macronutrient is a close runner up behind NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium) in its importance to a plant, it's the central core ion of chlorophill. It also plays a vital role in the metabolism of phosphorus and is responsible for the uptake and mobility of water within a plant. Sandy and acidic soils are more likely to be magnesium deficient. Symptoms Yellowing between the veins ( interveinal chlorosis ) initially in the older mature foliage progressing to the younger foliage as well. The plant may also be slow in its growth and development, and the fruit or vegetable yield may be low. Remedy Apply Epsom Salts (which is Magnesium). Manutec Magnesium Sulphate Possibility 4 - Iron deficiency Poor quality soils lacking in organic matter, heavy rain events or over watering, incorrect pH, or an imbalance of nutrients are all issues that could result in an Iron deficiency. Iron deficiency is a common issue in acid loving plants, Hydrangeas, Blueberries, Rhododendrons and Azaleas. Symptoms The new young foliage may appear pale yellow to almost white. Remedy Apply chelated iron as per the instructions for rates on the label, it may take a couple of applications to see the plant green up again. Along with applying iron, aim to rectify the underlying issues that led to the deficiency in the first place. Apply sulphur or lime to bring the pH back to the preferred range for your plant if the pH was the issue. If your soil lacks organic matter, add compost, animal manures and mulch to feed and improve the quality of the soil. Take a look at the image here below which shows the distribution of the yellowing. A visual cue might help you determine what's caused your yellowing. Image property of Mygardenlife.com Yellowing plants It can be like solving a jigsaw puzzle trying to determine what's causing your yellowing. Climatic factors such as recent weather events, the type of soil you have, and pH or nutrient imbalances can all be responsible. Try using a process of elimination beginning with the pH to determine which it is. Feel welcome to ask a question or share your experiences in the comments below. Have a lovely weekend, and as always Happy Gardening!😘🌸🌿

Written and edited by Tammy 24th August 2024 “Is it too soon to fertilise yet?" If you’re hesitating and unsure, the answer is no… not at all!! You only need look around us, deciduous ornamentals are breathtaking in full bloom everywhere throughout our town right now, the days are getting longer, and Spring is literally just around the corner. With everything beginning to wake from dormancy, now is the most important time of the year to start fertilising. Plants need a consistent source of nutrients to support their growth and well-being. A lot of plants will have struggled through the cold of winter and possibly been dealt the blows of sub-zero temperatures from frosts. It can be a struggle for them to get going again, particularly if the necessary resources are lacking. Which fertiliser you choose to use is going to depend largely on your circumstances, what you need to feed, and of course your personal preference for the brands you’re familiar and comfortable with. How I Like to Fertilise Liquids Soluble and liquid fertilisers and ameliorates are fantastic as that they're easily absorbed by the roots for the plant to begin reeking the benefits straight away. Without a doubt my hands down favourite is Seasol and I've been using it for years. The Seasol Complete Garden Health Treatment boosts plants immune systems and stimulates their roots to grow, while PowerFeed provides a source of nutrition. Approximately every two weeks from now on, throughout the growing season I like to apply a combined mix of Seasol Complete Health Treatment , and Seasol PowerFeed to any vegetable seedlings, flowering annuals, and cropping plants, including my fruit tree collection that are all in large pots/ wine barrels. It's fantastic for all perennials, shrubs, and bushes throughout your garden beds, and rest assured—it's totally safe for native plants as well. Remember, with solubles and liquids they don't persist in the soil for long, so you'll need to keep it up regularly if you're not providing your plants with something else in addition. Images credit to Seasol.com.au Organic Pelletised Fertilisers Diversity is the key; alongside liquid fertilisers that have the advantage of instant availability, it's smart to be in the habit of using a two-handed approach and apply an additional fertiliser, something to feed gradually and continually. My go-to is Neutrog. If you're not already familiar with Neutrog they are one of our few proudly SA home-grown companies, renowned worldwide now for their extensive range of organic fertilisers and soil ameliorants. (Look no further than the famous Flemington Race Course, home of the Melbourne Cup where the roses say it all!) Sudden impact for Roses. Meet Neutrogs' Rapid Raiser. A premium organic pelletised fertiliser that gradually nourishes your plants as it breaks down, while enriching your soil and its microbials at the same time. I like to top dress around my plants with it now, and then again in about another 6 weeks-time. You can safely apply it a couple of times per growing season, just follow the directions for rates for application on the back of the bag. Image credit to Neutrog It's all in the Mulch Before the hot weather kicks in, I can't stress enough that it's a must to mulch around your plants. Mulching not only insulates your plants and soil preventing dehydration, but it goes on to feed and nourish your soil too as it breaks down. Let me tell you about 'Who Flung Dung'. I'm Probably beginning to sound a little biased now, but once you begin using the Neutrog products, you'll understand why. Released into the market almost 5 years ago now in 2019, Who flung dung is an organic mulch and fertiliser two in one that comprises composted chicken manure and straw. Being high in Nitrogen, it's ideal for hungry fruiting, flowering and cropping plants. Spread a generous layer around your plants to insulate them from temperature extremes and prevent moisture loss, and at the same time it'll gradually feed them all the goodies they need to keep powering on. Image credit to Neutrog Little hint** REMEMBER, most Australian natives don't tolerate Phosphorus very well at all, so be mindful what fertilisers you use on them. Look for something that's specifically for natives. Neutrog does their own pelletised native plant food called Bush Tucker , which is recommended by the Australian Plant Society of Victoria, and often heard, highly spoken of by Gardening Australia's Angus Stewart. Bush Tucker is an organic based pelletised plant food that will break down and feed your plants gradually while benefiting your soil at the same time. If you've had any doubts, I hope this helps to put your mind at ease. It's absolutely essential to start feeding your gardens now as we head into Spring. Giving them the vital nutrients they need now from the right combination of fertilisers will boost their immune system and kick start their metabolism, setting the stage for strong plant growth right throughout the season resulting in stunning blooms, and bountiful harvests. You're always welcome to message me if you'd like more advice. Have a wonderful weekend, Happy gardening! 😘🌳🌹

Written and updated by Tammy 8th December 2024 With only a few weeks to go till Christmas there's still time to find that last minute gift for your gardening enthusiast loved ones. I've done some brainstorming and come up with a few ideas for you. Gardening Gift Ideas The Diggers Club Books I ndoor plants Dwarf Citrus or other fruit trees Living Christmas tree Garden art Bird Feeder or Insect Hotel Hampers & Gift Baskets The Diggers Club Nan and Pop would love a few packets of Diggers heirloom veggie seeds, a pair of gloves and an annual subscription for the Diggers Club Magazine. The Diggers Club - Australia's No.1 Gardening Club Follow the link to the Diggers Club website to see their full range of heirloom seeds and gardening inspired gift ideas. Gift vouchers can also be purchased online, and if you're planning a trip to Adelaide SA, you'll find their shop within the Botanical Gardens on North Terrace. There in itself is another gift idea, the gift of an experience, a picnic lunch and day out exploring the Botanical gardens. Books Give the gift of books. There are so many fantastic books on gardening to choose from, but you won't get any better than 'From the ground up' by Sophie Thomson, SA presenter from the ABCs Gardening Australia . First published in 2010 the book is jam packed with everything you need to know about plants and gardening in South Australia. A wonderful resource that any gardener would be wrapped to have in their collection. Find your nearest Angus and Robertson bookstore or buy a copy online. Indoor plants Indoor plants are always in hot demand and have made a big come back in recent years. Most women will admit to having a modest collection and have at least a couple on a wish list that they're still dreaming of owning. Popular plants right now include Monstera Thai Constellation, Sansevieria snake plant, Anthurium, and Spathiphyllum Peace Lilly. Dwarf Citrus or other fruit trees What garden lover doesn't love being able to go pick their own fresh fruit from the tree. These days there's everywhere as many dwarf and miniature trees as there are regular full size growing varieties. Smaller varieties of fruit trees are perfectly suited to growing in pots making them ideal for small courtyards or elderly relatives who don't need a large volume of fruit, or are no longer able to maintain a large tree. Feel free to message me any questions, I myself have a good collection of fruit trees in pots😁🍋🪴 Living Christmas tree Blue star Christmas tree Picea pungens. No artificial tree can stand up to the beauty, fragrance and atmosphere of having a REAL tree in your home for Christmas. My little tree pictured here below. Outside 48 weeks of the year, and inside for 4. A lovely gift idea for a young family to be able to watch it grow over the years as the family grows. Once again more that suitable to keep in a large pot as they are slow to mature. (Check out my article on growing you own Christmas tree😁👇) https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/grow-your-own-christmas-tree Garden art Bird baths, fountains, urns, water features, statues or a park bench for that tranquil corner to sit back and reflect. A lovely piece of garden art or garden furniture is sometimes that last finishing touch for a corner of the garden that your loved one has been wishing for. There's so many to choose from and a price range to fit everyones budget. Bird Feeder or Insect Hotel Bird feeders and insect hotels. Gardening enthusiasts are always thinking of not only their plants, but the wellbeing of the native wildlife and friendly pollinators too. Try your local pet stores and gardening supply stockists or have a go at making something as simple as these pictured below. Some of the loveliest gifts are the ones made from the heart, it's not about the stress of running around spending the most amount of money, it's the thought and love that's gone into it that makes it so special. You can find loads of tutorials and step by step guides online for making your own too. Hampers & Gift Baskets Put together a lovely hamper full of gardening inspired goodies. Add things like Packets of seeds. Hand trowel and fork. Gloves. Kneeling pad or gel knee pads. BHG or Gardening Australia magazine. Insect repellent. Fly veil to attach to a hat. Moisture meter reader. Twine or Jolly tie. Secateurs. Plant labels spikes. Decorative water mister/spray bottle. A voucher offering your time and help for a day in the garden with your loved one! Whether you feel inspired and creative, and decide to make a gift yourself, or you're still looking forward to that planned day out shopping around. I hope I've inspired you a little and given you a few more ideas. Happy Gardening!😘🌸   Other related posts you may like  The Perfect Christmas Garden Made Simple Make your garden the perfect place to celebrate Christmas and make memories with your family. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/christmas-colour-in-the-garden  Grow your own Christmas tree Everything you need to know about growing your very ow Christmas tree. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/grow-your-own-christmas-tree