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Written and edited by Tammy 5th November 2023 Did you ever stop and wonder what the world would be like without bees? Well it's actually a pretty grim picture, infact safe to say, there'd be very little food on our kitchen tables, least of all honey! The humble little honey bee plays a very important role. He's not only responsible for us having honey for our toast , but more importantly, without him, pollination of most of our fruits and vegetables would never occur, plants that are reliant on bees for pollination to guarantee their continuation would cease to exist, and then further up the food chain, our fattened spring lambs for the barbie and prime beef ribs would also disappear as there'd be nothing for them to eat out in the paddock. So you see, the world as we know it would almost certainly no longer be. Now that's sad...infact that's scary! What can you and I as individuals do about it? If you've got a spare bit of dirt or a pot that could do with a splash of colour, fill it with some lovely natives, lavender or marigolds. Do this to provide them with a food source, shade and shelter. In the hot weather leave a few extra dishes or birdbaths of water out (quite literally) for the birds and bees. Most importantly, be very mindful and conscious of what chemicals and pesticides you use out in your garden. Make chemical intervention your last resort, and if you do need to use them, read the label carefully. Use a product that states it's non-harmful to bees. Go ahead and spread the word! Nothing spreads better than good gossip. Help teach and educate our young ones about the importance of the preservation of our little friends. As one you might think you can't do much, but like anything if we all pull together, we can make a difference. Here's hoping you've enjoyed a lovely sunny Sunday! Happy gardening😘🌸🐝

Bearded Iris at sunset Written and edited by Tammy 26th December 2023 With 2023 quickly drawing to a close, I find myself reflecting back over the massive year it has been! My first grand-child, little Ivy Eloise, was born! the absolute apple of my eye🩷🩷 (she even has a plant name 😁🌿) I landed myself the dream job as Manager of the Garden Centre at our new Mitre 10 store here in Naracoorte SA, and I established my own website and gardening blog, 'TJs Gardening Works'. I shared my first very first post 'Soil from the ground up' on the 9th of December 2022. I touched on the topics soil health, the relevance of soil pH, plant nutrition, identifying plants and treating disease. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/soil-ph-the-nitty-gritty-of-it-all https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/6-tips-for-identifying-plants I visited some amazing local gardens to continue broadening my knowledge of what grows best here in our region, in particular in our sandy soils. From there I talked about the best suited plants to grow, improving moisture retention, and tips for saving water. Saving water I showcased some beautiful trees growing right here in our own backyard, the largest living River Red Gum in the South East of South Australia, Golden Elms, Crepe Myrtles, Chinese Pistachios and red flowering gums. Over the winter months I come up with a list of the pros and cons for bare root trees versus potted, and a 'how to' go about planting your new trees. When Spring Sprung I listed some hints and tips for growing healthy seedlings, the benefits of using Seasol , and how to treat powdery mildew. And more recently, I come up with a list of gardening inspired Christmas gift ideas , and shared my own live Christmas tree with you, offering advice on how you too can grow your own. Coming up with ideas for something to share with you is never hard as most of my inspiration comes from the conversations I have with my customers on a daily basis at work, or my findings at home in my own garden. I've barely scratched the surface! Stay tuned, I've got so many new ideas I'm excited to share with you in the new year! Thankyou for subscribing and following along and getting my first year off to a bumper start. If you've got any ideas for future posts for me, topics you'd like me to cover or even something you'd like to see me add to my website, I would love to hear from you. There's nothing more exciting and encouraging than receiving feedback and interaction. I hope you've all had a wonderful Christmas surrounded by family, friends and loved ones, and I wish you all the very best for 2024! Tammy😘🍒❤️ TJs Gardening Works

Plants weathering torrential downpour. Written and edited by Tammy 16th January 2024 If there's ever been a Summer for breaking weather records this would have to be the one. Not too many parts of Australia have been spared the brunt and devastation of storms and floods. My home country town of Naracoorte in SA recently broke records and made the news receiving more than 5 inches of rain in less than an hour. The consequences and negative impact it's had on our homes and gardens, for some, has been heartbreaking. The obvious damage in our gardens after storms is always snapped branches and broken limbs, but in the wake of what we've recently seen, comes a host of other issues we're less familiar with. Storm damage issues Nutrient Leaching Drowning Physical damage Pests and disease Nutrient Leaching Nutrient leaching occurs when excessive volumes of water flush all the nutrients from the soil leaving it infertile, often eroding away any mulch and top layers of soil in the process. Within a couple of weeks, the first obvious signs might be interveinal chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves between the veins) then progressing on to foliage drop. Pictured right is my little Trixzee ™️ minature peach that started the season looking lush and green then progressed to this state quickly after the 5 inches of rain we had. After some evaluations I concluded that it was a nutrient deficiency, most likely as a result of all the rain. Evidence of lack of nutrients What to do When any plant is stressed and unhappy always start out with Seasol Complete Garden Health Treatment. Being a soluble health tonic, it's taken in and utilised by the plant almost immediately to boost its immune system, overcome stress and stimulate the roots to encourage nutrient uptake. My tree was treated with both Seasol health treatment AND Seasol liquid PowerFeed fertiliser together at the same time (it is completely safe to do) and I'm continuing to do so at fortnightly intervals monitoring the change. The two products have very different purposes. The health treatment (in the white bottle) is a plant derivative made from kelps, lower in nutrients and ideal as a health treatment, while PowerFeed (in the green bottle) derived of fish, contains Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium (NPK) so it's a complete fertiliser. Both products have a low percentage of Phosphorus, so they are completely safe for natives as well. NOTE* Seven days after commencing treatment, you can see the yellowing is less severe and the newly emerging foliage is beginning to green up. Drowning Drowning is another issue that can arise. Plants need oxygen just like us, heavy clay soils don't drain easily, and when they become water-logged, there's little to no oxygen available essentially leading to plants drowning. Potted plants can also become victims of drowning if they're not up off the ground to be able to drain freely, or if the drainage holes become blocked with matted roots. You'll need to Drain away as much water as possible and allow the pot to dry out. Consider repotting into fresh potting soil if necessary, and make sure your pot sits up on pot feet or something to elevate it off the ground to aid drainage. Plants in the ground can be a little trickier. Try the following. Lift and transplant less mature plants if practical to do so. Aerate the soil once it has dried enough. Add and turn through compost and organic matter to improve the soil structure and nutrient availability. Apply and Incorporate gypsum. Gypsum aids drainage in heavy soils. Mound up extra soil to create raised beds up above the original ground level. Plants that can't be transplanted or moved should be given Seasol heath treatment and pruned back to lessen their workload and help them recover. Physical damage The added weight of heavy rain combined with gale force winds can cause large tree limbs to fall and bushy overgrown shrubs to snap and break. In some instances, a combination of sodden wet soil and strong winds can be enough to partially dislodge and loosen roots from the soil, or even uproot them entirely. How to repair and prevent Prune back and dead head regularly to eliminate excess weight on the plant. Not only will it lower the risk of further damage in future storms, but it will allow for air circulation in the canopy of the plant which helps prevent disease. Pruning back also benefits the plant by encouraging a flush of fresh new growth. Pests and diseases Continued heavy rainfall events in the warm weather bring with it humidity, making conditions ideal for fungal diseases and insects to breed and thrive. If not caught in time, it can only take a matter of days for things to become critical. How to treat and eliminate Routinely check for evidence of insect infestations, Rust, Powdery Mildew and Black Spot. Treat with fungicides and insecticides. Earthcare Rose Black Spot & insect spray or/ Sharp Shooter Rose Black Spot & insect have the advantage of being dual action, helping to kill and control fungal diseases and pests. Follow up with Seasol Health treatment as a complimentary to help the plant overcome its challenges. Powdery Mildew ☘️ Powdery Mildew on Zucchini foliage Rust spores on rose foliage Tip* Don't forget to turn off automatic irrigation systems, it won't be necessary for a while until things dry out a little. There'd be nothing worse than unknowingly contributing to the issues. With the unpredictably of our weather and the extremes of each event becoming more frequent, I think we need to be as pro-active and as well educated as we can with how to prevent and treat the challenges as they arise. As always, happy gardening. 😘🌸

Gardening tools Written and edited by Tammy 7th May 2024 Pruning is one of those jobs that all gardeners need to do at some point whether you have a conservative little courtyard or a sprawling landscaped masterpiece. It's one of those routine jobs like washing, dishes and making the beds...you've got to do it. Customers often approach me saying "I need to prune my tree, but where do I start? which tool is for what??" It can be a bit overwhelming, so, let's go through a few and see if I can help solve some of the confusion. Pruning tools Floral snips Secateurs Shears Loppers Hand saw Anvil versus bypass Floral snips Fiskars Micro snips Snips are similar to a pair of scissors, you have two cutting edges coming together, bypassing each other. Generally, they'll have fine, pointed blades for getting into tight spots. They're designed for making precise cuts on softer foliage. Use them for removing spent blooms on annual colour. Pinch pruning petunias with fingertips Secateurs Secateurs Secateurs, or pruners as some folk call them, are for pruning smaller hardwood up to approximately 20mm in diameter. They're the most suitable choice for pruning back your roses, fruit trees, vines and deciduous ornamentals. Here are a few considerations to take when choosing a pair of secateurs. Price. A pair of entry level secateurs will start around $10. From there you can expect to pay up to $150 and beyond for a quality pair with all the 'bells and whistles'. Consider how much work you will be doing with them, if you intend to be using them all day every day, spend a little more and go with a better-quality pair. Weight. Pick up a few different pairs and compare the weight of them. Are you going to fatigue holding them for a whole day in the garden? Would you be better off with the lighter weight pair. Blade size. Think about what you will be pruning. Lavenders and Daisies will be fine with small, shorter blades, but for your fruit trees and roses you might be better off with larger heavier weight blades. Comfort. Comfort is also important. Take the time to find a pair that feel comfortable in your hand. Look for features such as soft grip handles, and a contour that works for the size of your hand. Some secateurs feature a rotating handle and are available to suit either left-handed or right-handed users. This concept embraces the idea that as your fingers curl, creating a fist, or rather, closing the pruner, the lower handle rotates with your curling fingers. Particularly helpful for older arthritic hands. Bahco Secateur- My fav! Like finding your favourite brand of coffee beans, every gardener will find their favourite pair of pruners they love to work with. (Clearly, I'm a coffee drinker!) I recall my old boss giving me a pair of Bahco secateurs and telling me to look after them and not lose them. I still have them, and to this day they remain my favourite ones to work with! They're slim, compact and non-bulky for small hands. They disassemble easily for sharpening and hold their edge well with the daily workout I give them. Shears Utilising hedge shears for hedging. Shears are designed for shaping and maintaining larger bushes and hedges. They have two sharp edges, that bypass one another the same as the floral snips. Obviously they're larger than snips though, they have long, flat blades designed for removing large amounts of foliage in one cut. The other thing you'll notice is the slight angle between the handles and the blade, which is designed to aid comfort while using the tool in awkward positions. Things to consider when choosing a pair of shears. Price.  Once again, the price will be comparative to the quality of the product. Depending on the features you need, you'll find a pair of shears as low as $20 a pair, up to $120 plus. Blade length. For clipping small hedges or shaping standard topiaries, shorter length blades will be easier to manage. A large Buxus or Pittosporum hedge will call for longer, heavier duty blades. Handle length. Handles vary greatly in design and size too. Consider the size of the plant you will be pruning. Shorter handles will be fine if you don't need to reach far, but for taller hedges where you need to reach beyond the extent of your arms-length, telescopic handles extend to double and more of the original handle length. Powered 18v or petrol. If you have a lot of large formal hedges to maintain on a regular basis, (consider hiring a gardener!!🤪) OR, a powered line trimmer might just be for you. Visit your local small engines and power tool specialists and ask loads of questions. Ask them to show you a comparison of the brands, and features of each. A petrol line trimmer will require fuel, oil, and regular servicing, the 18 vollt battery trimmer will come with the expense of buying and charging multiple batteries. It will come down to what works for you. Petrol line trimmer Loppers Loppers for pruning larger branches These are the tool we call on for the big stuff. They’re designed for removing larger previous seasons wood up to and in excess of 20mm in diameter on roses, fruit trees, vines or ornamentals. Some loppers have a ratchet mechanism. It's designed to increase the force applied to the blades in a series of ratchet steps. Helpful for a smaller person, the physical force required to complete the cut is greatly minimised. Telescopic extendable handles are also often an option for loppers which should be considered if what you need to cut is higher up. Hand Saw Small pruning hand saw A must have for every gardener's tool kit! A pruning handsaw is handy for small limbs that are awkward to get at with the loppers. Unlike loppers, the blade of the handsaw can cut right up against the trunk of the tree or the larger limb it's being removed from, so you're not left with a small stump protruding. Being small, they're light weight and super easy to use. The teeth are normally angled back towards the handle meaning they bite in and cut on the back stroke, the pull action, not the push. They work equally as well on dead wood as green wood. Do be mindful to get one that has a decent quality blade, too cheap and thin and it will always jar on the forward push, bending it, rendering it buggered! As with the other tools, you will find a selection of sizes and styles available. If the branches you’re needing to prune or get at are a long way up, well above your head height, rather than climbing a ladder, look for a pole saw pruner which has an extendable handle, often it will have a lopper on it as well. *Anvil versus bypass Another thing you might come across that's relevant for pruners and loppers is the terminology anvil and bypass. What's the difference between anvil and bypass? Anvil tools provide a more powerful cut as they have a double-edged sharp blade (like a kitchen knife). The blade cuts down through the wood essentially crushing it against a flat surface, the anvil bed. For hard old dead wood, that’s absolutely fine, and chances are you won't get through that with a bypass pruner anyway. Bypass tools on the other hand have a single sharp cutting edge that cuts cleanly past the lower fixed edge of the tool. It’s a cleaner neater cut for living wood, less damaging and stressful for the plant. Example of anvil compared to bypass. Whether you're tiding up a hanging basket of pansies, or cutting back the most untamed, rambunctious woody vine, there is a specific tool for each job. It's just a matter of finding which one is the most suitable for your task, and the most comfortable for you to use. You'll be an expert armed with all knowledge now next time you go shopping for gardening tools! Hope you week is going along smoothly. Don't forget this weekend is Mothers Day! Happy gardening 😘🌸🍂

Cherry Blossoms Written and edited by Tammy 29th June 2024 By now, most fruit trees will have dropped their remaining leaves and transitioned into dormancy making it the perfect time to prune. Without foliage obstructing your view, you can clearly see the branches, buds, and overall shape of the tree, allowing for more precise and effective pruning. And not only that, but, pruning over the period of dormancy (while the tree is not actively growing) minimizes stress on the tree which reduces the risk of disease transmission. Importance of knowing what you're pruning Recognising and being able to identify your fruit buds can save you the costly mistake of unintentionally cutting off the chance for a bumper crop of fruit this Summer. Imagine your heartache. Peaches, Peacharines and Nectarines (Prunus Persica) Apricots. (Prunus Armeniaca) Pears (Pyrus Communis.) Fig (Ficus Carica.) Identifying fruit buds, How do I know what's what?🤷‍♀️ While I don't proclaim to be an expert or able to identify every single detail on all types of trees, I'm going to show you what I do recognise on my own trees and give you my tips for how you can become more confident in recognising what is what on your trees too. ( Click here to jump down to some labelled pics I've taken of my own trees). Probably sounds old fashioned but don't be afraid to grab a few books from the library and study some diagrams before getting started. Make yourself familiar and comfortable with the terminology and anatomy of your tree (the names of its body parts). Have a go at matching up images you've sourced with those on your own tree (as I have here below). Pay attention throughout the season, when you're enjoying a coffee out in your garden, stop and have a good look at your tree. What are the buds opening into right now? Are they bursting into a blossom or unfurling into a leaf? Take some pics there and then and write some notes for yourself to look back on in a few months' time. Share and compare knowledge hints and tips with you family, friends and neighbours, chances are they may have the same trees and may be able to help you, or vice versa. Peaches, Peacharines and Nectarines ( Prunus Persica ) Characteristics on my peach tree in comparison to those in a book. (The example above is my Trixzie ®️ Pixzee Miniature Peach.) I've labelled it to show you the characteristics on my tree in comparison to a diagram in a book. A. is a lateral (or branch if you rather, it comes off the trunk or a previous season's branch). B. is a sprig (a small/minor branch coming off a lateral). C. is a fruit spur at the end of the sprig. D. is a fruit and leaf bud together. E. is a wood and leaf bud. F. is a leaf bud. Self-pollinating, Peaches, Nectarines and Peacharines will fruit on their own without a companion, and tend to fruit on one year old wood, meaning the laterals of the previous season. The 'fatter, fuzzier' buds are generally fruit buds. Leaf buds are smaller, flatter and less significant. Wood spurs are often slender solitude buds normally further back in along the branch prior to the fruit buds. A close up pic here below👇 Close up of fruit & leaf buds. My miniature peach tree. Image above is as follows👆 A, B & D are all plump fuzzy little fruit buds, while C is a leaf bud nestled between the two fruit buds. You'll notice the small round white spots atop each swelling on the lateral, this is where a mature leaf has just recently fallen from. The tiny, pointed, dark things above those, are where a new dormant bud for a following season lives. Apricots. ( Prunus Armeniaca ) Dwarf Divinity Apricot Labelled characteristics of a young Apricot tree.  At the tail end of last season, I bought myself a young dwarf Divinity Apricot as the Apricots in supermarkets always seem flavourless. It's not a very big tree yet to use as an example; nonetheless, it has the correct bits'n'pieces for me to label and describe for you. See the image above👆 A. Both laterals off the main trunk. B. A sprig coming off a lateral containing some leaf buds. C. A fruit bud spur. D. A wood spur. (will become a new sprig). Also self-pollinating, Apricots bear fruit on mature wood and do so for multiple seasons. Once mature, regular pruning is only needed really to keep it tidy, and to encourage it to keep producing new wood for future seasons fruit baring. Fruit buds on Apricot trees aren't fuzzy like those of a peach, though they do still tend to be larger and more obvious than leaf buds. They almost look like little miniature pinecones. They're also often seen in clusters of '3 in 1' like C. in the image above. ** An important thing to remember is that Apricots are highly susceptible to a disease called 'Gummosis'. (It looks a little like glossy hard oozing honey) Once it affects a tree is can be hard to bring back under control so it's crucial that you only ever prune your tree when the weather is fine and dry. Fresh open wounds exposed to moisture are the perfect opportunity for disease to set in. A close up look at those buds👇 Closer up of look at the apricot tree buds. See the image above 👆 A. is a fruit bud spur. B. is the sprig, a little short branch coming off a lateral. C. is a wood bud. A plump little bud that I'm pretty certain is fruit. (I'll confirm that in a few more weeks' time!)  Pears ( Pyrus Communis .) Dwarf red pear. Labelled characteristics. (The example above is my dwarf red pear.) Pears and Apples aren’t self-pollinating meaning they require a compatible companion to produce fruit. I've got ornamental pears in my front yard, and it just so happens they are perfectly fine as companions for cross pollination. Image above is as follows👆 A. 3 year old wood I'm holding between my fingers. B. 2 year old wood. C. 1 year old wood. D. swollen knobbly section known as a bourse. E. Fruit bud. F. Leaf of wood bud. G. Fruit bud. Almost always at the end of a lateral. H. Dormant bud. Pears and Apples being closely related are very similar in their characteristics, both almost always fruit on two year old wood. The swollen looking lumps at the bases of buds are known as a 'Bourse'. You'll notice them where fruit or wood buds have previously been. They will continue to produce more either fruit or wood buds in consecutive years so try to avoid shortening them or removing when pruning. Water shoots, or water sprouts, are non-productive. They emerge vigorously from a dormant bud, and their tendency to grow straight upwards, almost vertically, is a telltale sign of their presence. Dwarf red pear. Further examples of fruit buds. And here again 👆 A. Fruit Bud on 2 year old wood. B. Fruit Bud. C. Bourse on a 3 year old lateral, having produced a wood spur last year, which now has a fruit bud at the end of it this year, it's 2nd year. D. Exactly the same scenario as C. Fig (Ficus Carica.) White Adriatic fig labelled characteristics.  (Example is my white Adriatic Fig tree) Most cultivars of Figs are self-pollinating so you only need one. My particular tree, the White Adriatic is a lower spreading variety which works well in the wine barrel it's in. Image above is as follows👆 A. Fruit bud tucked in beside leaf bud at the terminal point. B. leaf bud. C. Dormant bud beside where a leaf has previously fallen from. D. Exactly the same as C. Fruit commonly forms on last seasons wood at the terminal point of the laterals and sprigs beside the leaf bud. (see both images) That being said, every leaf union has the potential to for a fruit bud. Fig tree close up look at leaf and fruit buds. Image above is as follows 👆 A & B are both fruit buds, while C is a terminal leaf bud. Hopefully the labelled pictures of my trees serve as a useful reference for you. With practice and observation, I promise you'll become more adept at identifying what's what on your own trees too. By investing that time into understanding and recognising their individual characteristics and becoming confident and comfortable with meeting their requirements will enable you to effectively nurture their development and enhance their productivity. 'Happy trees, happy life!' Keep an eye out over the next few months and I'll continue to post some progress pics of my trees as they head into Spring. Keep warm, Happy gardening!😘🌸🌳

Juicy ripe Elberta Peaches Written and edited by Tammy 29th July 2024 Whether you're beginning with a blank canvas for a new fruit orchard, or you've got space for one or two additional trees to complete your collection, deciding which ones to go with can be a little overwhelming, given the varieties available, and new and improved cultivars constantly coming into the market each season. To solve that dilemma and make it easier for you I've compiled a list of what I consider to be the top 20 best fruit trees that I've sold, tasted, tended to and seen growing here in our region year after year. I've included a few details about each one, such as their characteristics, flavour, pollination requirements and ripening times. So, let's dive in! Top 20 best fruit trees Apple Jonathan Apple Granny Smith Apple royal Gala Apple Pink Lady Apricot Moorpark Apricot Divinity Cherry Stella Cherry Lapins Fig White Adriatic Fig Black Genoa Mulberry Dwarf Black Nectarine Goldmine Peach Elberta Peach Anzac Peacharine Pear Packham Pear Dutchess Pear Nashi Plum Satsuma Plum Santa Rosa Apple-Jonathan Johnathon Apples An oldie but a goodie, everyone's favourite, the Jonathan apple. A medium sized, round apple, predominantly red, over a yellow to green background. They're known for their crisp, juicy, sweet, flavour. A good choice for kid's lunchboxes. Pollination Requirements: Requires a companion for pollination. Most suitable: Red Delicious, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith. Maturity: Fruit ripens from early to mid-March. Apple-Granny Smith Granny Smith Apples Australian bred and world renowned, the 'go to' apple for baking the humble apple pie. A large firm, crispy green apple, slightly tart in flavour. Granny Smiths are perfect for baking as they hold their shape well. Pollination Requirements: Partially self-fertile but benefits from cross-pollination with another apple variety like Red Delicious or Pink Lady. Universal pollinator for most other apple varieties. Maturity: Ripens over a long period from April through into May. * Granny Smiths are available as a dwarf, commonly known as 'Leprechaun'®️ Apple-Royal Gala Royal Gala Apples. Royal Galas' are another popular smaller to medium apple, perfect size for the kiddies. Crisp, juicy and sweet, they're stripey red over a creamy yellow background. Pollination Requirements: Partially self-fertile, they benefit from cross-pollination with a Granny Smith, Pink Lady or Red delicious. Also available as a dwarf reaching approximately 2.5m tall, branches may require staking while bearing the weight of fruit. Maturity: Ripens mid to late February, a good option for extending your harvest season, as it ripens earlier than Jonathan. Apple-Pink Lady Pink lady Apples. Pink Lady's, a popular and well-known apple have been right up there amongst the top runners since their release in 1974. A blushing pinkish-red skin colour over a yellow background, they're a lovely, crisp and juicy apple with a sweet-tart flavour. A good choice if you're looking for an apple that keeps well. Equally as good for cooking as eating fresh. Pollination Requirements: They will benefit from a companion such as Gala, Granny Smith or Red Fuji. Maturity: Ripens from mid-April through into May. *A dwarf cultivar of Pink Lady is available, known as 'Pinkabelle'®️. ** Look out for: Red Delicious & Golden Delicious, both classic, well-known varieties having been around for a long time. Both available as dwarfs. Apricot-Moorpark Moorpark Apricots For eating fresh, making jams and dehydrating it doesn't get any better that the classic old favourite Moorpark. When I say old, I mean literally as it's a cultivar that's been around since the 17th century. Moorpark apricots are best known for their rich, sweet flavour with a hint of tartness. Pollination Requirements: They are self-pollinating. Having another apricot tree nearby can increase fruit production, but it's not essential. Maturity: Moorpark apricots typically ripen from late December into January. They prefer a free draining soil and full sun aspect and are also available in a dwarf form. Apricot-Divinity Divinity Apricots If you're looking for a second variety of apricot to be a companion for your Moorpark, look no further than an Early Divinity. Early Divinity are a medium to large oblong shaped fruit, with the flavour being every bit as good as the Moorpark. Pollination Requirements: Early Divinity apricots are also self-pollinating, but again, having a different variety nearby can increase fruit production. Maturity: As the name suggests, Early Divinity ripens almost a month ahead of Moorpark making it a perfect choice for extending your harvest season. *A dwarf cultivar of Early Divinity is available and happens to be what I purchased myself last season. Cherry-Stella Stella Cherries Imagine the pride and satisfaction in being able to pick your own Cherries at Christmas time and not having to pay the exorbitant prices of supermarkets. Well, a Stella cherry tree is what you need. Stellas are known for their sweet flavour and dark red to almost black skin. Needing aprox. 600 chill hours, followed by warm summers for fruit production, our regions climate provides cherries with everything they need to thrive. Pollination Requirements: Stella cherries are self-fertile, meaning they don't require a companion tree for pollination, though as previously mentioned, having a second is never a bad thing. Stellas are also a universal pollinator for most other varieties of cherries. Maturity: Stella cherries typically ripen from mid-December. **A Dwarf cultivar of Stella is also available. Cherry-Lapins Lapins Cherries Just as popular and well known here in our region, if you're considering a second cherry tree or an alternative to Stella, look for a Lapins. Deep red in colour once fully ripe, Lapins are equally as juicy and sweet with hint of tartness. Pollination Requirements: As with Stella, Lapins are self-pollinating, so planting two trees is not necessary, but always advantageous. Maturity: Lapins Cherries are ready to harvest from late December. *As with Stella, Lapins is available in dwarf form. Fig-White Adriatic White Adriatic Figs. My personal favourite, as mine never fails me season after season, the White Adriatic Fig. White Adriatics are distinguishable by their lime green to pale yellow skin when ripe, with soft pink to dark rose flesh inside. Renowned for their taste, they have the sweetest, honeylike, melt in your mouth flavour that makes them perfect for eating fresh, or cooking in deserts and preserves. They grow well here in our region (for anyone else reading this who's further afield, I'm in climate zone 6 a Temperate Mediterranean climate so we have warm dry summers, and our winters are cold and wet). Pollination Requirements: White Adriatics, like most figs are self-fertile so you won't need a second one. Maturity: My figs begin to ripen in the tail end of Summer, and I continue picking them right throughout the Autumn months. Fig-Black Genoa Black Genoa figs If the idea of a white fig isn't for you, an alternative commonly seen here in our region is the Black Genoa. Highly prized by fig enthusiasts for their sweet, rich flavour, Black Genoas are a smaller plump looking fig with a vibrant pink to deep red flesh hidden beneath a purple to black outer skin. Pollination Requirements: As with the White Adriatics, Black Genoas are self-fertile. Maturity: Harvest them from late Summer into Autumn. **Have you ever wanted to have a go at making your own home-made fig jam? Try this one... follow the link here to an EASY recipe 👉 Home made Fig Jam Mulberry Dwarf Black Dwarf black Mulberries. Another favourite of mine that I've never regretted buying is the Dwarf Black Mulberry, you won't get a hardier little tree. If you don't have acres of room, or years to wait for the heritage Old English Black Mulberry to mature, then this one is for you. A prolific bearer of sweet, slightly tart, dark red to black berries. The perfect snack to have a handful of daily for weeks on end. The berries tend to be smaller, firmer and more 'squish resistant' than that of the Old English, that being said they will still make a mess of your hands, clothes and pavers in my case, as my tree in is a large container in my courtyard. Pollination Requirements: Dwarf Mulberries are self-fertile. Maturity: My tree bears fruits twice a year, the first main crop being in late September, and a second smaller crop in late March to April. Nectarine-Goldmine Goldmine Nectarine. For Nectarines, the hands down favourite would be Goldmine. Creamy white flesh beneath a smooth, pinkish red skin. The rich, aromatic flavour sweetens and intensifies as they ripen and soften. They're 'freestone' meaning you should be able to run a knife around the circumference of the fruit at the dented midline and separate the two halves from the stone. Pollination Requirements: Self-pollinating, so you won't require a second one. Maturity: Goldmine nectarines ripen mid to late summer, around February. ** Dwarf cultivars are also available. Peach-Elberta A fruit orchard just wouldn't be complete without a Peach tree or two and the two most common popular peaches are Elberta and Anzac. Elberta Peach Elberta has been a favourite for years. A classic sweet juicy freestone peach, with golden orange flesh beneath a soft, fuzzy, red flushed, yellow skin. A beautiful peach for eating fresh or culinary purposes. Pollination Requirements: Elberta is self-fertile and will produce fruit without a companion. Maturity: Harvest Elberta peaches from mid-February. ** Dwarf cultivar of Elberta is available. Peach-Anzac Anzac Peach Over 100 years old and named in honour of the ANZAC soldiers, the Anzac Peach is well known and highly regarded as one of the best peaches today. A large, round, white fleshed, freestone variety with the sweetest flavour. Anzac having been around for such a long time has a naturally higher resistance to disease, in particular Curl Leaf. Pollination Requirements:  Anzac peaches are self-pollinating, but having another peach tree nearby can improve fruit production. Maturity:  Anzac peaches typically ripen in mid to late summer. *A dwarf cultivar of Anzac is available. **If you like the idea of an old-fashioned type of Peach where the sweet juice runs down your wrist with each mouthful and the flesh clings to the stone, keep an eye of for Golden Queen. Still the number 1 peach used for preserved tinned fruit today. Peacharine Peacharine So you love peaches but find the furry skin off-putting or hate the idea of having the remove the fuzz which sometimes doesn't come off easily? Well perhaps a Peacharine is just the thing for you. A peacharine is basically a cross between a nectarine and a peach, or rather a peach without the fuzz. Firm, yellow flesh beneath dark pink blushed, smooth skin that becomes sweeter as it ripens. Freestone. Pollination Requirements: Self-fertile as with peaches and nectarines, doesn't require a pollinator. Maturity: Expect to be able to harvest then from early to mid-Summer. Pear-Packham Accounting for more than 60% of pears grown in Australia today, Packham Triumph Pear the Packham Triumph was bread by Horticulturist Charles Henry Packham in NSW in the late 1890s. Reliable, prolific fruiters, they're grow well here in our region. The fruit size is medium to large, oblong but chunky and irregular in shape. The flesh is smooth, and creamy white beneath lime green skin that yellows as it ripens. Eat them soft sweet and juicy, or whilst still firmer. I love to slice them aprox. 5mm thick and dry them in my dehydrator. Try to resist eating too many at once though!!! Pollination Requirements: Like most pears, Packhams are sterile and will need another pear of a different variety nearby for pollination. Maturity: Packhams ripen in late February. Pear-Dutchess Dutchess (Williams Bartlett) Pears A European variety, also known as Williams or Bartlett, Dutchess are the second most commonly grown Pear in our region. Slightly smaller and more uniform in their shape and appearance than the Packham, but they're every bit as sweet and juicy. They're the most popular canning variety of pear. Pollination Requirements: Dutchess pears are self-pollinating so perhaps a better choice if you only have room for one. That being said, fruit yields will be even better with a second variety nearby. Maturity: Ripening times for Dutchess Pears are from mid-February. ** Available as a dwarf cultivar. Pear-Nashi Nashi Pear For something a bit different, you can't go past a Nashi. Originating in Eastern Asia Nashis' are next level! A cross between an apple and a pear, Nashis' have the firm, crisp crunch of an apple, with the texture and juiciness of a ripe pear. The flavour can best be described as florally sweet, with a hint citrus. Pollination Requirements: Nashi pears are self-fertile, but cross-pollination from a Dutchess or another Nashi will increase fruit production. Maturity: They typically ripen late Summer in February. Plum-Satsuma Everybody knows of the Satsuma. Satsumas are a medium to large freestone plum, with a small pit in the centre. Dark red flesh beneath, red to almost purple skin, they're best known for their sweet, juicy flavour and the prolific volume of fruit they produce each season. Satsuma Plum. Pollination Requirements: Satsuma plums are self-pollinating, so they don't require a companion. Maturity: Satsuma plums typically ripen mid to late summer. **Satsuma plums are available as a dwarf cultivar as well. Plum-Santa Rosa Santa Rosa is another popular and well-known variety of plum for home gardens. A medium sized, round clingstone plum with a soft, sweet, juicy, yellow flesh beneath a deep red coloured skin. Santa Rosa Plum. Pollination Requirements: Santa Rosa plums are semi self-pollinating but will yield better with another plum tree nearby. They're noted to be a good pollen donor for most other plums. Maturity: Santa Rosa's ripen December. ** Santa Rosa is available as a dwarf. Before you go shopping for your new fruit trees there'll be a few things to take into consideration. Maybe create yourself a list. What type of fruit do you like to eat? What do you find yourself regularly buying in the supermarkets? Pollination requirements. Some trees will require a companion for pollination. How much space do you have? How many trees at most can you fit comfortably within the space? What's your soil quality like? You may need to invest some time and money into improving you soil prior to planting. Irrigation. Hand watering or setting up drippers on timers for consistency and accuracy of water allocations. Protecting your fruit from wildlife. A netted fully enclosed orchard or netting the individual trees. These are the first few that come to my mind and there are quite likely other things that I haven't mentioned that will be a priority to you. Perhaps spend some time having a look at the Balhannah Nurseries , website. They are one of the biggest, longest standing growers and providers of deciduous fruit trees and ornamentals to our region. Almost every single retail supplier you visit right now will have Balhannah trees in stock. They are an amazing company that we would be lost without. Balhannah Nurseries Take advantage of the friendly staff instore where you buy your trees. Go armed with your list and ask questions. That's what we are there for, and more importantly, what we love to do. As always, you're more than welcome to send me a message if you want to know more. Have a wonderful week, Happy Gardening! 😘🍏🍎

Meyer Lemon Marmalade written and edited by Tammy 1st September 2024 You’ve heard me say it before and I’ll say it again, “when life gives you lemons…. “well have you ever tried Marmalade? Citrus lovers will most likely have tried it and love it as I do but for those who don’t know, marmalade is the most divine, sweet, tangy preserve you could ever imagine spreading on a crunchy slice of hot toast or dolloped over icecream. History of Marmalade History of the Meyer Lemon Size and Growing Preferences Fruit Description Where you'll find them Meyer Marmalade Recipe History of Marmalade Marmalade recipes go back as far as the 1500s where the Portuguese used quinces (known as marmelo) to make their preserves, then as time passed Seville oranges took centre stage. Now the relevance marmalade has to my gardening blog has everything to do with my Meyer Lemon tree-well actually I have two! A beautiful specimen in my front garden and a dwarf Meyer branded “Lots a lemons” in a pot. My Meyer lemon tree Meyer is not the lemon you will find a wedge of wrapped in with your fish n chips but it is hands down the sweetest, juiciest lemon of them all, making it the most suitable variety for marmalade. (and I LOVE squeezing them over my fish n chips!) History of the Meyer Lemon A Hybrid, said to be a cross between a lemon and an orange that found its way to the US from Beijing China back in 1908 thanks to a US Dept of Agriculture plant explorer, Frank Meyer. ( Improved Meyer lemon | Givaudan Citrus Variety Collection at UCR ) Size & Growing Preferences A smaller more compact tree than other varieties, it potentially reaches 2.5m x 2.5m and thrives in full sun. Prefers a quality, free draining, loamy soil, slightly on the acidic side. As with most varieties of citrus they are gross feeders. I regularly provide mine with a combination of fertilisers , liquids, organics, and animal manures in mulch form. Known for being hardier and more adaptable that other varieties of lemon, it’s a popular, good choice for the home garden. Fruit Description The fruit itself is small to medium, rounded in size with a smooth orangey yellow thin skin covering a golden yellow juicy flesh. Fresh cut lemons Where you'll find them The smooth thinner skin of the Meyer leaves them more susceptible to damage and bruising in transit hence they’ve never had the mass market appeal of say the Lisbon or Eureka, so you won’t find the Meyer on supermarket shelves. Where you WILL find them though with the prolific volume of fruit they produce almost all year round, is at your local home growers markets, buy swap sell pages and home doorsteps with signs saying “Free lemons, take some”. It honestly doesn’t get any better than that, the winner for me is the Meyer. Attached is the link to the recipe I used. Meyer Lemon Marmalade https://www.simplyrecipes.com/recipes/meyer_lemon_marmalade/ The most time consuming part was chopping and preparing the lemons but other than that it was very easy and SO worth the effort! Enjoy the first day of Spring! Happy Gardening😘🍋

Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum Written and edited by Tammy 7th September 2024 Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum would have to be one of my favourite plants I recommend time and time again, when asked for something pretty, but hardy and adaptable. Convolvulus Cneorum Convolvulaceae, commonly known as the 'Morning Glory' family of flowering plants, mostly comprises herbaceous climbing vines, but Cneorum is one of only a few that are a dense, bushy, spreading shrub. Native to the mediterranean regions, they prefer alkaline soil, a full sun to part shade aspect, and good drainage. They stand up well to the cold and are tolerative of hot, dry periods. Size wise, they form a nice, dense mound, of approximately 60cm tall and upto 120cm wide. Convolvulus Cneorum is well known is the landscaping world for being a winner of the Royal horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit for its outstanding qualities and landscape performance. To see it in full bloom covered in masses of beautiful, vibrant white flowers on soft silvery grey foliage, you can appreciate how versatile it really is, in that it will suit anything from cottage style gardens and rockeries to mass plantings for borders. Instead of annuals that need to be replaced each season, try planting some silver bush in pots or hanging baskets as a feature or mobile display that can be moved from one spot to the next for a pop of colour that will continue to bloom for months and months on end. Convolvulus Cneorum Next time you're in Naracoorte, drive past the new Mitre 10, look for it growing beneath the ornamental flowering plums Prunus 'Crimson Spire' in the carpark garden beds. I planted them there almost 18 months ago when our store opened as small plants no larger than potted colour. (3 plants per 6 meters) You'll see they're well on the way to reaching their mature size now, and as I hoped, they contrast beautifully with the burgundy foliage of the flowering plums. Other than the initial watering them in, and a seasonal handful of Rapid Raiser, they're thriving of whatever Mother Nature provides them with. They've stood up to the 40 degree days we had at the end of last summer, and the frosts we had in the tail end of this winter. They really are a winner. Covolvulus growing beneath Ornamental Plums The perfect plant ticking all the boxes for ease of care, hardiness and masses of colour. Add this one to your garden wish list today. Happy Gardening! 😘🪴 Other Posts You Might Enjoy Flowering ornamental plums When is the Best Time to Fertilise Your Garden and What Products Should You Use? “Is it too soon to fertilise yet?" If you’re hesitating and unsure, the answer is no… not at all! With everything beginning to wake from dormancy, now is the most important time of the year to start fertilising. Elberta Peaches Top 20 Best Fruit Trees Guide Whether you're beginning with a blank canvas for a new fruit orchard, or you've got space for one or two additional trees to complete your collection, deciding which ones to go with can be a little overwhelming. To solve that dilemma and make it easier for you I've compiled a list of what I consider to be the top 20 best fruit trees. Hedging shears Beginners guide to Pruning tools-which one to use! Pruning is one of those jobs that all gardeners need to do at some point whether you have a conservative little courtyard or a sprawling landscaped masterpiece. But where do you start? which tool is for what??" Let's go through a few and see if I can help solve some of the confusion. Spring Frosts How Frost Affects Plants & Tips for Preventing Frostburn Frosts are among the greatest adversaries for gardeners throughout the colder months. Days with clear, sunny skies often lead to subzero temperatures overnight, causing frosts to occur. Without being pro-active and having measures in place, the results can be detrimental. Fertilisers Which fertiliser should I use?🤷‍♀️ One of the most important jobs at the top of everyone's 'to do list' right now is to feed your gardens. Whether it's your roses, lawns, garden beds, fruit trees or indoor plants, they're all going to need to be fed. It can be confusing trying to decide which fertiliser should I use with so many available on the market. There are five main types of fertilisers that each have their own purpose and circumstances for use.

Agave Havardiana 'Harvard' Written and edited by Tammy 3rd January 2025 When it comes to searching for plants for your garden that are, hardy, drought tolerant, frost tolerant all the while looking smart and stylish in design, look for plants with silver or grey coloured foliage. But “why grey, what's so good about it?” You’ll notice silver or grey coloured plants have either fine soft hairy foliage, a tough leathery surface or a waxy coating. Often, they’ll have smaller, fine of even needle like leaves. It’s these features that are attributed to the plant’s place of origin, mostly a hot arid climate, and are its defence mechanisms or coping strategies for that climate it originates. Frost tolerance- fine hairs or a waxy coating prevent frost from being able to make contact with the plant’s leaf or stem surfaces. Bit like the plant has its own coat of armour on! Drought resistance- the finer the foliage the lesser the demand for water is, in comparison to large lush leafy green foliage. Makes sense! Temperature extremes- less leaf surface and foliage exposed to direct sun also equals less opportunity for sun burn. The same applies to plants with a waxy or leathery exterior. You can liken it to the plant having its on natural sunscreen on. I've put together a list here for you of some of my favourites. 12 best silver grey foliage plants Pigs Ears, Cotyledon Orbiculata   Silver Spurflower Plectranthus Argenttatus Liquorice plant Helichrysum petiolare Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum   Lamb's Ears Stachys byzantina Silver Dust, Dusty Miller or Silver Ragwort Senecio cineraria   ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ Eremophila Glabra Angels wings Scenecio candicans Native Coastal Rosemary 'Smokey' Westringia Fruticosa   Silver Cushion Bush Calocephalus Brownii Salt bush 'Grey Edge' Rhagodia parabolica   English Lavender Lavendula angustifolia   Cotyedon Orbiculata Pigs Ears Pigs Ears, Cotyledon Orbiculata Commonly known as Pigs Ears, Cotyledon Orbiculata is striking succulent with large, waxy, silver white leaves potentially reaching 1m x 1m in height and width. A perfect plant for a standout contrast of colour in garden beds or rockeries, or you could even use it in pots and containers. It contrasts beautifully against the strappy red phormiums pictured here above. Being a succulent it's also EASY peezy to propagate making them good value. Plectranthus Argentatus Spurflower Plectranthus Silver Spurflower With velvet-like soft grey, foliage, Plectranthus Argenttatus Silver Spurflower will happily grow Indoors in a bright, well-lit room just as happily as it will outdoors. Prefers a good organic, free draining, sandy loam. Add it to a beautiful big urn as a feature or showcase it as an underplanting beneath a lovely big shade tree. Reaching approximately 60cm -1m in height and equally as wide, striking mauve or white flower spires bloom throughout the warmer months. Helichrysum Petiolare Licorice Plant Helichrysum Petiolare Licorice Plant Helichrysum petiolare , commonly known as Liquorice plant is a fantastic little spreading ground cover that grows to around 50cm tall by 1.5 meters wide. Small fleshy green leaves covered with silvery white fuzz are complimented by dainty white flowers in the warmer months. Perfect for edges, border and fillers. Reaches approximately 50cm in height and can spread upto 1.5m wide. Convolvulus Cneorum Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum Silver Bush. This one is definitely a standout performer and has won awards rightly so. A dense, bushy, spreading shrub covered in masses of glory type white flowers right throughout the warmer months. Grows to approximately 60cm tall x 1.5meters wide, the perfect plant suited to all situations from borders, edges, mass displays, containers and pots. Extremely good drought tolerance once established. (This is the one I've mass planted throughout the Naracoorte K&B Mitre 10 car park garden beds. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/silver-bush-convolvulus-cneorum ) Stachys Byzantina Lambs Ears Stachys byzantina Lambs Ears Stachys byzantina , Lamb's Ears, a beautiful quirky little ground cover well known for its velvety, soft, fuzzy leaves, truly resembling lambs' ears. A quick spreader that thrives in full sun, and well-drained soils. Reaching aprox 30-50cm tall and spreads upto 1m or more. Giving it a regular drink and the occasional light trim back over the warmer months will keep it looking good and prevent it becoming leggy. Makes for a lovely mass planted filler. Scenecio Cineraria Silver Dust Senecio cineraria  Silver Dust Senecio cineraria Silver Dust, Dusty Miller or Silver Ragwort. This one always reminds me of snow flakes. A small compact hardy shrub growing to only around 30cm in height and width. Occasional clusters of small yellow insignificant flowers in Spring, but its prized feature really is its silvery white foliage. Prefers full sun to partial shade in free draining, sandy or loamy soils. Moderate water requirements but does like to dry out between drinks. Tolerative of the cold but can be a little frost sensitive. Propagates easily from seed.  Perfect pop of contrasting colour and texture for pots, containers, and cottage garden beds. Eremophila Glabra Kalbarri Carpet Eremophila Glabra ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ Eremophila Glabra ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ An award winning, hardy Australian native ground cover, d istinguishable by its fine, narrow, silvery grey foliage, and slender, tubular, yellow flowers throughout Spring and Summer. Thrives in an arid climate and tolerative of drought conditions. Prefers a full sun aspect in well-drained sandy or loamy soils and has low water requirements once established. Reaching 30-40cm in height and spreading up to 2m, its perfect for dry native landscape style gardens and better still, ideal for preventing and overcoming soil erosion.  Birds, native wildlife and pollinators will thank you for planting natives too as you'll be providing them with a source of food and shelter. Scenecio Candicans Angel's Wings Scenecio candicans  Angels wings Scenecio candicans Angels wings are a real show-stopper with their large, heart shaped, velvety silver white foliage. The leaves themselves, you could almost liken them to that of the Liquorice plant I also rated here just prior..... only a lot larger! A popular choice for indoors and outdoors not only for their striking foliage, but for their ability to purify the air as well. Their bushy, compact growth habit sees them reaching potentially 30-90cm tall and equally as wide. Loves a bright indirect light if inside and a morning sun to part shade if outside. Think of that spot beneath a beautiful big shade tree that sees the early to mid-day sun. A free draining soil or potting medium is ideal, and only water when the top inch of soil is dry. Susceptible to root rot if over watered and not keen on frosts either. Senecios' are a succulent, so think of the requirements of your other succulents. Perfect plant to use as a 'filler' under planting to go with something taller, in a "thrill, fill & spill' large urn, pot or container. Let your imagination go wild! (Have to say I love love love Scenecio Serpens 'Blue Chalk sticks' too in mass plantings. Another real architectural one 😁🪴) Westringia Fruticosa Smokey Var. Westringia Fruticosa ‘Smokey’ Westringia Fruticosa 'Smokey' also known as a native coastal rosemary. Westringias' come in a large variety of cultivars, each one unique in the shape, size and colour growth habits. Smokey is a lovely, variegated form with dainty white to pale mauve flowers from Spring through into Summer. It has a dense, bushy, compact growth habit reaching between 1 to 1.5 meters tall and wide. A warm arid climate plant, they prefer full sun to part shade, and a well-drained sandy to sandy loan soil. Drought-tolerant once established, a moderate watering is all they need over long dry periods. Perfectly suited to coastal gardens, borders and hedges, and even more so if attracting, birds, bees and pollinators is a priority for you too. Calocephalus Brownii Cushion Bush Calocephalus Brownii Silver Cushion Bush Calocephalus Brownii Silver Cushion Bush. With fine needle like, hairy silver foliage, how perfect does this specimen look above in a garden here in Naracoorte. It contrasts and beautifully compliments the gnarly old tree limb it's nestled beside as though it's just meant to be there. The owner has many of them growing throughout her primarily native garden with them thriving in a full sun aspect, in a free draining pure sand soil. Drought-tolerant once established; particularly with an insulating layer of mulch as she has, the bare minimum of water is all that is required. Commonly used in gardens and landscapes for its attractive foliage, they tend to reach somewhere between 30 and 90cm in height and width. They truly look striking as a stand-alone feature in a garden as this one does, but they would look equally as amazing to see a hedge created with them or even in a large rustic urn. Rhagodia Parabolica Salt Bush Rhagodia parabolica  Salt bush 'Grey Edge' Rhagodia parabolica Salt bush 'Grey Edge'. Any list of grey foliage plants just wouldn't be complete without a salt bush. It doesn't get any hardier. This particular plant just happens to be growing no more than three meters away from the Cushion Bush pictured above, evidently, its growing preferences are the same. They are thriving!! Grey Edge grows to a height of 1 to 2 meters, is drought-tolerant once established; and only requires the occasional watering during prolonged dry spells. Prefers full sun, well-drained sandy or loamy soils; and is tolerative of alkaline saline soils too. Ideal for soil stabilization in coastal or erosion-prone areas. Popular in landscaping for its appealing foliage and form. Lavendula Angustifolia Eng. Lavender Fields of English Lavender Lavendula angustifolia English Lavender . There are so many cultivars of English Lavender available, including 'Munstead', 'Hidcote', and 'Royal Purple', each with unique characteristics. Typically grows between 1 to 3 feet tall, depending on the variety. Produces spikes of small purple flowers that bloom in summer, attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies. It features narrow, grey-green leaves that are aromatic when crushed, and thrives in full sun, free draining, sandy or even gravelly soils. Lavender might not be exactly a 'silver/grey' foliage plant but I'm still adding it to my list of favourites as it's right up there amongst them for every other reason and some. Even if grey plants aren't your thing from a colour palate perspective, don't dismiss them until you've done some research. Tough, drought hardy plants like these are already well adapted and suited to our climate. Their lower water requirements will not only save you hip pocket but help take the pressure off of our environment and precious resources too. Keep cool and have a wonderful weekend! Happy Gardening! 😘🪴 Other related posts you may like How to save water in the garden Watering lawns  There are lots of simple measures we can take to save water in our gardens potentially saving us hundreds of dollars a year. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/how-to-save-water-in-the-garden Help! My plants are burnt and crispy Burnt foliage burnt foliage is just one of those unfortunate things that happens from time to time. Try a few of these tips, hopefully they'll help. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/saving-burnt-crispy-plants Hard water-The cold, hard facts. Hard water If you see crusting on top of your soil surrounding your plants or a white residue on the leaves then they proceed to yellow and burn, there's a pretty good chance hard water will be a major contributing factor. So what can we do? https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/hard-water-the-cold-hard-facts https://amzn.asia/d/0ECXcz6

Delicate shade loving plants Watch any gardening shows on tv, and you’ll often hear them use the term ‘Microclimate’ but what IS a microclimate?? The term microclimate refers to a small area where the climate conditions differ from the surrounding area. Sunlight exposure, wind patterns, soil types, or proximity to structures are all contributing factors. Let me give you an example…. A large, advanced Morten Bay Fig tree growing in a full sun location exposed to prevailing winds… that’s the growing conditions it’s subject to, and the climate it’s growing within. Now if a collection of Hellebores' and Hosta's were growing at the base of that tree in rich, organic composted soil, protected from the winds by the large exposed roots, and fully shaded and sheltered by the huge canopy of dense foliage, they would be growing within their own climate, full shade and sheltered, and potentially a couple of degrees cooler too as the intensity of the suns heat would be less harsh beneath the dense thick canopy. One small, contained climate co-existing within another larger completely different climate, a micro-climate. **Benefits of growing plants within a micro-climate: ** 1. **Extended Growing Season: **If you're lucky enough to own a 'hot-house/ green-house', you can grow vegetables that might otherwise be out of season, almost all year round. Plants that require warmer temperatures often begin start to struggle once the days become cooler and shorter. A green-house acts as a microclimate trapping heat from the days sun within and insulating them from the cold allowing them to grow well beyond their typical season. This is how large commercial plant suppliers grow stock to provide to the retail outlets. Tomatoes growing within a green house. 2. **Protection from Harsh Conditions: ** Plants that are sensitive to strong winds or frost can be sheltered in a microclimate, providing them with a more suitable environment to grow. Think of the hellebores' example I just described above. You couldn’t grow the delicate little babies tears ground cover out in dry sandy soil in the hot sun, but if you planted a large shade tree, improved the soil beneath it, and grew some lovely dense perennials, there’s a good chance the babies tears might grow protected there in beneath the perennials. 3. **Diverse Plant Selection: ** By creating different microclimates within your garden, you can experiment in growing a wider variety of plants that may not be able to survive in the overall climate of your region. 4. **Optimal Growing Conditions: ** Microclimates can offer ideal conditions for specific plants, such as increased humidity, reduced sunlight exposure, or better drainage, leading to healthier growth. The little ferns growing within the terrarium below are growing within their own microclimate. They wouldn't be exposed the fluctuations in temperature within the house, cold draughts in the winter, or warm dry air from the fire. The moisture, humidity and temperature would be maintained and consistent. The perfect example of a microclimate. Tiny ferns within a terrarium, a micro-climate. A dear friend of mine has a beautiful new home built less than 10 years ago on their farm. When the house was first built quite literally in the middle of a paddock, there was not so much as a tree or twig. There was no protection from the constant prevailing winds and her soil was ( and still is) a heavy sticky black clay that becomes sodden in winter with the shallow water table and shrinks and cracks in summer leaving her with canyons a small dog could get lost down. The first thing she did was to establish a good, dense shelter belt of now large, advanced trees to completely surround the house. Fast forward to now, the mature trees provide almost total protection from the winds, the under-plantings of annuals and perennials have shade from the harsh summer sun, and many a season of top dressing her garden beds with generous layers of pea straw and rich organic matter has seen her have good, deep beds of nutrient rich top soil to plant into. She's essentially created a completely different climate within her yard to that of outside her yard, a microclimate. Michelle’s Garden A small section of her lovely garden that was once an empty barren paddock. Delicate plants growing in the under canopy. Next time you fall in-love with a plant but think you can’t have it because you can’t provide it with the growing conditions it needs, try to come up with a solution to get around those constraints. When it comes to gardening, anything is possible, sometimes we just need to think outside of the square. Happy Gardening 😘🪴

Rosemary Officinalis Written and edited by Tammy 24th April 2025 Rosemary: The Fragrant Herb of Remembrance and Resilience. It's one of the most commonly sort after, popular plants in most Aussies gardens but its more than just a kitchen staple. Rosemary Rosmarinus Officinalis , now officially classified under the name Salvia Rosmarinus, has a rich history that spans continents and centuries. But here in Australia and New Zealand, rosemary carries a special meaning close to the heart. A Symbol of Remembrance During ANZAC Day services across Australia and New Zealand, sprigs of rosemary are often worn to honour the memory of those who served and sacrificed for us. Why rosemary? Legend has it that the herb grew wild on the Gallipoli peninsula, where so many ANZAC soldiers fought bravely in 1915. Its strong, clean fragrance and evergreen nature made it a fitting emblem of enduring memory and loyalty. Rosemary Rosmarinus Officinalis-the short and tall. Originating from the Mediterranean, Rosemary grows extremely well here in our region, a cool temperate climate. Our long hot dry Summers and winter frosts don't phase the plant at all. Both having different uses, two of the most common varieties of Rosemary grown are, 'Tuscan Blue’ and ‘ Prostratus’ or ground cover Rosemary. Tuscan Blue is perhaps the most popular form, known for its neat, tall upright growth habit. It's this that makes it such a popular choice for borders and hedging in home gardens. The simplicity of mass plantings always oozes elegance and grandeur. Prostratus, ground cover or trailing rosemary, on the other hand is often used in pots, hanging baskets or as ground cover spilling over the edges of rockeries. As with Tuscan Blue, its aromatics and flavour are excellent for seasoning mediterranean inspired dishes. The classic and iconic roast leg of lamb just wouldn't be complete without it. Each variety of rosemary brings its own unique characteristics to both our cooking, and our gardens. Tuscan Rosemary A few growing tips to get you started Rosemary thrives in full sun. Find it a nice, sunny spot where it can soak up at least 6–8 hours a day. Well-drained soil is key: Rosemary doesn’t like wet feet, so sandy or loamy soil with good drainage is ideal. Minimal fuss: Once established, rosemary is drought-tolerant and low maintenance, it's water requirements are minimal. Ideal for pots and containers: If space is tight or frost is a concern, grow rosemary in a pot or container so you can bring it under cover in extreme weather. Keep it right by the back door for not only its looks and fragrance, but the convenience of it being on hand for culinary use. Prune for shape and health: A light trim after flowering will keep your plant bushy and prevent it from getting woody. Fertilise- with a quality organic all-purpose fertiliser to aid new seasons growth. Whether you’re using rosemary to bring structure and formality to your garden, or to quite simply season the humble roast potatoes, let it allow you to stop for a moment to honour the ANZAC spirit, its a living legacy. Enjoy your gardens 😘🪴 Least we forget

Fresh Garlic Written and edited by Tammy 6th April 2024 ( Allium sativum) Garlic. If you're contemplating, "how hard is it to grow garlic?"......the answer is simple, it's easy! Follow these basic steps and never buy supermarket garlic again.    ** Growing garlic steps to success ** Seed source How much do I need to plant? When is the right time to plant it? Growing requirements. Spacing and depth- how far apart, and how deep to plant them. Ongoing maintenance. When and how to harvest. Health benefits and uses for garlic. Seed source. Once you've decided to have a go at growing your own garlic, take the time to find yourself some quality Australian owned/grown produced seed garlic. Here are a couple of very good reasons why... For one, there's no guarantee how old garlic purchased from in the supermarket is, particularly if it has come from overseas, it could already be months old. Garlic from overseas is often treated with Methyl bromide to prevent pests and disease. And if you think that sounds like something nasty that's because it is.   Methyl bromide is a toxic fumigant no longer used here in Australia due to its hazardous properties. Even if it is Australian produced, garlic grown for the supermarket shelves is most aways pre-treated with growth inhibitors to prevent it from shooting. How much do I need to plant? It's pretty simple, think of it like this.... 1 clove of garlic produces 1 new plant. Each new plant produces roughly 10 to 12 new cloves. So theoretically, 10 cloves planted should net you, 10 new plants equalling 100 individual cloves. Always better to have too much than not enough I say! And remember, from what you grow, not only do you want enough to enjoy eating for the season, but you want to be able to save the same quantity for growing again next season. Ultimately you should never have to buy garlic again. When is the perfect time to plant garlic? Kinda any time now! Garlic, not unlike any other bulb, needs the cold to promote growth. As we head into Autumn there's still nice warmth in the soil, but the temperatures are dropping, and the day lengths are shortening. We've come to know of this as the perfect time for bulbs. Garlic needs 8-9 months to grow and reach maturity, so planting it now in Autumn between March and May means you'll be harvesting between November and January. Some folks say, "Sow on Anzac Day and Harvest on Cup Day". If that makes it easier for you to remember, then there's no harm in that. Growing requirements. Garlic needs plenty of sun, it won't grow in a shaded spot under trees. Find a good sunny spot in your yard or if that's not possible, grow it in a large pot or container. The advantage of growing in a pot or container is that you can plant straight into the perfect potting medium, drainage won't be an issue, and you can move it around your yard if need be. It does prefer a free draining, good rich organic environment. If you're sowing it into the ground add plenty of compost and good handful of blood and bone prior. TIP** Remember to rotate your crops to avoid build-up of soil born disease, aim for a 3-year rotation. Don't go back into the same spot with the same vegetable year after year. Spacing and depth. Soil prepared and ready to go. Break open the bulb if it's not already separated out into cloves. Set aside any tiny cloves too small to plant. Prepare a diluted solution of Seasol complete garden and Health treatment in a container and soak the cloves overnight. Pre-soaking the cloves in Seasol with give them a massive head start. Not only will it invigorate them and stimulate growth, but it will also boost their resistance to pests and disease. Once drained, dried off and ready to go you can begin sowing them. Give each clove approximately 15cm space between them and sow them down to a depth of no more than 4-6cm with the pointed end facing up and the rounded end facing down. Ongoing maintenance. Water them in with a little more Seasol. This should see them off to a really good start. Feed them at fortnightly intervals with a soluble fertiliser, Seasol powerFeed, and every couple of months apply some organic pelletised fertiliser of your choice, some Dynamic Lifter or Rapid Raiser, both good choices. If seasonal rain is plentiful, you won't need to water too often. Be mindful not to let them become waterlogged or they'll be susceptible to rotting. Keep on top of weed control, pull out weeds as they emerge to keep the garlic bed weed free. Monitor closely for evidence of pests and fungal issues such as aphids, rust or white spot. Where present treat with a natural organic fungicide or insecticide. You don't have to always turn to a store-bought product either, look at what's in your own pantry, Bicarb Soda can be a gardeners best friend! Combine 1 tablespoon of bicarb, in a couple of litres of water and treat with that. Often just as successful, kind to the environment and even kinder on your wallet. When and how to harvest. Around 8-9 months after sowing, the foliage will begin to yellow and die back. Stop watering 3-4 weeks prior to allow the skins to dry and tighten a little then they'll be ready to harvest. Use a garden fork (not too close to the bulbs or you'll risk damaging them) to dig down and lift to loosen the soil. This should make it easier to free them from the soil. Trim the excess roots and leaves to tidy them up. Secure them into bunches by the stems, and hang them in a warm, airy location away from direct light for at least 3-5 weeks to dry. Failing to dry them properly will risk them not storing, spoiling and going mouldy. Done properly they should store well for up to 12 months. Health benefits and uses for garlic. You could write a book about it, in fact I'm quite certain there ARE books and articles exclusively on the uses and benefits of garlic, so I won't go into that. Safe to say, garlic IS good for you. It's amazing anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and immune boosting properties have been tried and tested for centuries. And from a culinary perspective, what CAN'T you do with it. It finds its way into my own diet almost daily, whether it be a sneaky chunk off the end of a stick of Kalleske's Mettwurst in my fridge, or in the Garlic infused extra virgin olive oil drizzled on my salad. And I'm quite sure I'm not alone. Garlic Nature's perfect prescription Garlic recipes If you're here in my part of the world, grab yourself a pack of 'Good Aussie Garlic' seed. Proudly grown and produced right here in our own backyard....50 minutes down the road in Bordertown SA. Check out their website, you'll find Rachel and Wade's contact details there. EDIT *** Good Aussie Garlic are sold out for the 2025 growing season😔 Good Aussie Garlic Logo Grown at home garlic! ( goodaussiegarlic.biz ) Happy Gardening 😘🌸 You might also be interested in…👇 https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/treating-caterpillars-on-brassicas-101 https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/spring-flowering-bulbs https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/successfully-growing-seedlings