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Healthy Indoors plants Written and edited by Tammy 6th March 2025 Diagnosing what’s wrong with a sick or dying plant can be tricky stuff, they can exhibit a whole host of symptoms that may indicate different underlying issues. Environmental conditions, pest infestations, nutrient deficiencies, and diseases all come into play so having an understanding of these elements really is important to be able to diagnose a sick plant successfully. Just as doctors ask questions, listening for clues and observing the physical symptoms, so do I when faced with an unhappy plant. Each symptom can tell a story about the plant's condition and the potential problems it faces. Yellowing leaves might suggest overwatering or nutrient deficiencies, while brown, crispy edges could indicate underwatering or environmental stress. It can be a complex puzzle, and by no means do I profess to have all the answers, but it's those challenges that I enjoy every day. Possible reasons your plant is sick There are three different possible scenarios, a pest, disease, or a disorder. Definitions: Pests- Insects, mites, rodents, animals. Disease- A fungal, viral or bacterial infection. Disorder- Abnormality in the way a plant is growing as a result of incorrect or inconsistencies in water, nutrition or exposure to climatic and soil conditions. What to look for Pests Disease Disorder Evidence of pests Pests eat plants. Sometimes the clues they leave behind can be obvious while other times not so much. Different sized insects and animals AKA 'Pests', leave different evidence of their feastings behind. Mites Mites are microscopic, (barely visible to the naked eye) sap suckers that leave the foliage looking yellow, drained of goodness and washed out. You may even notice fine, almost web-like dust on the under sides of the leaves. They LOVE our indoor plants. Leaf Borers Leaf borers or leaf miners leave wiggly white lines or rather tracks throughout the membranes of the leaves. (pictured above) Also sucking insects, Aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and thrips are all a little larger and visible to the eye. These types of insects often leave their secretions behind called 'Honeydew'. A sweet, sugary substance that goes onto to become black and mouldy, not before the ants come marching in droves! (Recognising scale👉 ) Caterpillars, snails, slugs and grasshoppers The munchers and crunchers! This lot leave obvious holes in the foliage if they leave anything at all! Birds, Rats, Rabbits and Possums Larger pests like these will devour small, tender delectable little seedlings and leave not much more than maybe a stem as evidence that they existed. Possums LOVE our roses and fruit trees. I've seen young fruit trees, and new seasons growth on roses stripped of everything bar the stems of the leaves. (Dealing with snails👉 ) Rabbits, Kangaroos and rural livestock Native wildlife and livestock are renowned for 'ringbarking' young trees (removing the outer layer of the trunk)-but then so can a whipper snipper (ask my passionfruit vine what happened the day I took home a new Makita line trimmer🤭) Larger animals if given the opportunity to get into the veggie patch, may leave your plants crushed, broken and perhaps even pulled from the ground in the way that they graze. Above left- Grasshopper. Centre- Aphids. Right- Earwig. Below left- Mealy bugs. Centre- Scale. Right- White fly. Evidence of disease These next two scenarios are kind of closely connected. Often, disease takes hold in a plant as a result of the same inconsistencies that lead to a diagnosis of a disorder. Avoiding situations that lead to disorders can often prevent them being susceptible to disease. Three of the most commonly seen diseases in our home gardens are Black Spot, Powdery Mildew and Rust, all fungal diseases manageable with fungicides. Copper oxychloride and Lime sulphur are two of the most common fungicides on the market along-side more natural friendly alternatives like milk or bicarb soda. Black Spot Black spot will be all too familiar for anyone who has ever grown roses. Almost always seen on roses towards the later part of the season when they're tired and running out of puff, particularly where there is over crowding of foliage, creating a lack or air circulation. A lack of air circulation combined with the right degree of humidity (moisture in the air) creates the perfect breeding ground for not only black spot, but for most fungal diseases. Early stages will look like perfect round black spots randomly spread over the leaves. As it progresses those leaves lose their green pigmentation turning yellow, then finally falling from the plant. ( Black Spot check out my previous article on black spot and pruning roses👉 ) Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew begins will small powdery white looking blemishes on the leaves and stems. It progresses to cover the entire leaf surface with the foliage eventually shrivelling and dying. Commonly see on Zucchini's, pumpkins, melons and cucumbers. Hydrangeas and grape vines, edible and ornamental are also highly susceptible. ( I'll show you a little more on managing powdery mildew👉 ) Rust Rust is something our farmers are constantly on the lookout for in their wheat and barley crops, it can be a problematic issue for them most seasons. Easily identifiable by the presence of tiny, raised almost fuzzy looking orange, red or brown spots. Keep an eye out for it on veggies like tomatoes, peas and beans, and amongst flowering annuals, calendulas, snapdragons, gerberas, hollyhocks and geraniums will be the most susceptible. Evidence of disorders Diagnosing a disorder can be a lot trickier than an obvious pest infestation or a disease, as a lot more factors come into play. A disorder can be summed up as any situation where a plant doesn't look as it should or isn't performing as it should be relating to water, nutrition, environment or climatic factors. Process of elimination- if there's no evidence of pests, or disease, then it has to be a disorder. (the fun part is establishing which one it is!) Nutritional Deficiencies or Toxicities Nutritional deficiencies or toxicities for want of a better way to describe it, plants need the right proportions of nutrients from all the 'food groups' just like us. Think of the healthy food pyramid, although their food pyramid would look a little different from ours, but the concept is the same. Too much or not enough of one thing will see them screaming out to us with clues ranging from a lack of pigmentation, to curling of leaves, too much pigmentation and crispy burned leaf margins amongst others. HINT** Often a customer will approach me asking for Iron to take home and treat their yellow plant. In some instances, they'll be 'bang on the money' that it is an Iron deficiency, but if you're not 100% certain, resist the temptation to treat is as such, because you could potentially cause further issues poisoning your plant with something it never in fact needed. Always err on the side of caution, do a little homework first. (Checkout this article I wrote a little while ago now on reasons your plant may be yellow👉) Hydration A plant can look wilted and droopy because it's thirsty, on the other hand it can look droopy if it's lacking in oxygen/drowning too. HINT**I mentioned earlier that disorders can sometimes lead to disease? Root rot in indoor plants is a disease that unfortunately occurs as a direct result of too much water/wrong potting medium. What is your watering rescheme? How much water does this particular plant actually need? Has your soil become hydrophobic not allowing it to take in and hold water, or on the other hand, is it holding too much water drowning it, should it be planted in a more, free draining medium? All questions taken into consideration if a hydration disorder is suspected. Burned shrivelled foliage can also be a result of inadequate water. Climatic Conditions, Soil & Light Climatic conditions, soil & light can most definitely come into play when assessing why a plant is unwell or is failing to thrive. Knowing the climate zone and habitat a plant originates from can tell us a lot more about its preferences, and the environment it will most likely thrive in. A plant that originates from a hot, arid climate, quite likely has the ability to store water in its roots or fleshy leaves (think cacti and succulents), some have small fine needle like foliage to minimise the opportunity to burn in the sun and lessen its need for water. (think of native coastal rosemary or saltbush). Plants like these will most likely fail to thrive and struggle in a heavy rich soil in full shade, just as ferns, fuchsias and hydrangeas will quite likely burn and shrivel in sandy soil, in the full hot afternoon sun. Stunning Hydrangeas growing in a sink hole. Mount Gambier SA. Being able to look at a plant and establish what is wrong with it, is not something you can learn overnight. It's knowing what to look for and where. Being able to look at a plant's characteristics, for clues to its origins to know what its preferences are. It's a whole jigsaw puzzle that comes together to build a picture. It's a skill that has taken me personally, years of study along-side working with plants every day to become confident with, and I'm still learning something new every day. We never stop learning. I hope there are some useful clues here that might help you to work out why your plant may be sick. And if all else fails, please reach out, send me a message and we can work it out together. Or our lovely Limestone Coast locals will know where to find me. Keep praying for rain, it's bound to come soon. Happy gardening 😘🪴🌸  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Written and edited by Tammy 7th April 2025 Insect attacked seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together. Slugs and snails Look out for silvery trails all over the foliage and the ground. They need moisture to be able to move around otherwise they're at risk of their bodies drying out. When the weather is hot and dry, they'll be hiding somewhere cool and dark, and most likely, not your culprit. If it's recently been raining and everything is wet, there's a good possibility slugs or snails are to blame. Earwigs, millipedes and beetles Like slugs and snails, these little critters are mostly nocturnal. During the day you'll find them hiding in the dark under rocks, logs and debris. They are renowned for chomping tender little seedlings off at the stems. If you don't see the evidence pointing to snails, you could perhaps suspect these critters. Earwigs and millipedes LOVE soft, sweet, delectable strawberries. They'll be hiding beneath the mulch surrounding them. Caterpillars On mild, calm days keep an eye out for cabbage moths flitting around. They're known as cabbage moths for a good reason. They absolutely LOVE Brassicas, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Broccoli, and Brussell sprouts. They most often lay their eggs on the undersides of the foliage of your plants. The eggs hatch and hungry little caterpillars emerge. Lime green in colour, they camouflage well and discreetly chomp away at the underside of the leaves. As with snails and earwigs they can decimate a crop of seedlings very quickly, almost overnight. Aphids will be obvious in daylight hours, you'll see them infesting new young shoots and foliage, roses are a favourite for them. They are sap suckers and will leave the new growth looking limp, yellow, and drained of life. Another indication aphids are at work is the sticky secretion they leave behind, honeydew, which in turn brings the ants in droves. Rodents and native wildlife It's not always just grubs, bugs and creepy crawlies. Particularly if you live rurally or on the outskirts of town, mice, rats, rabbits and even birds don't mind a bit of greenery in their diets too. Make sure you install some rodent mesh around your veggie patch. Other than the missing vegetable seedlings, they leave evidence such as tracks, footprints and droppings. Vigilance and prevention are always better than cure. When you plant out new seedlings, don't be afraid to lay out some pet friendly snail bait around them. Cover them up with insect mesh so they physically can't get to them. Plant them in raised beds further out of reach of ground dwelling critters. When you are watering them daily, get down amongst them and check there's nothing crawling around on or beneath the foliage. Look for some clues and hopefully you'll be able to determine for yourself exactly who your culprit is. Happy Gardening😘🌱🌸  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Cold frosty morning Updated by Tammy 21st May 2025 Frosts are among the greatest adversaries for gardeners throughout the colder months. Days with clear, sunny skies often lead to subzero temperatures overnight, causing frosts to occur. Without being pro-active and having measures in place, the results can be detrimental. So, what happens to our plants when they're exposed to frost? When our plants are exposed to frost, this is what happens: 1. Plant Tissues Freeze: The sub-zero temperatures cause the water within the plant cells to freeze. 2. Cell Damage : The cell walls and membranes of the plant then become physically damaged due to the formation of ice crystals within those cells. 3. Disruption of Cell Functions : The frozen water expands causing the cells to burst. Once this happens, the cells cease to function as they should. 4. Dehydration : As the plant begins to thaw out, the damaged cells can no longer retain water properly, which leads to dehydration. 5. Wilting and Discoloration : The affected parts of the plant then start to wilt, turn black, or become discoloured as a result of the frost damage. 6. Reduced Photosynthesis : Once plant tissues are damaged to that extent, they're no longer able to photosynthesize effectively, which can further weaken the plant. 7. Increased Vulnerability : A plant that survives frost burn will often be more vulnerable to diseases, pests, and other environmental stresses. Tips for Preventing Frostburn Not quite an umbrella plant Vigilance Cover up Location Mobility Protectant formulations Timing of pruning Vigilance Watch and listen to the daily weather forecasts. Pay attention to the predicted minimum and maximum temperatures for the proceeding day. Be prepared to cover your vulnerable plants that night when sub-zero temperatures are forecast. Cover up Cover them up. Check out the image below. My Seedlings at work, every night I 'tuck them in😁' It takes me no more than a couple of minutes to roll some 'Frost cloth' out over them. Frost cloth is a re-usable product for covering plants that still allows them to breathe, while insulating them and preventing frost from settling on them. You'll find frost cloth at most major leading outlets and online. My babies at work all tucked in for the night An alternative to frost cloth might be an old sheet or a tarp supported by some sticks or hardwood stakes. You could even cover your plants with old plastic two litre milk containers or icecream containers. Be creative and utilise anything you've got to be able to cover them. Location Consider where you plant your seedlings or plants. Is there an alternative location in your yard that's more sheltered and protected, less exposed to frosts? Perhaps beneath some large established evergreen trees. Make them mobile You might be someone who doesn't have the option of planting out into the garden. For renters, or perhaps elderly who find it's physically challenging to get down on the ground to garden, it might be an option for you to have your plants in large mobile planters, raised beds, or pots on wheels or caddies. Making your plants mobile gives you the convenience of being able to move them around to expose them to sun throughout the day, then move them back under shelter at night. Protectant Treating your plants with a frost and sunburn protectant is another option particularly advantageous for larger vulnerable plants that it's less practical to cover. Look for the product called 'Envy'. Envy has been formulated by an Australian company based in Qld called  Agrobest.   The product is designed to protect plants from ALL environmental climatic stresses. The active ingredient is a water-based polymer that's non-toxic, pH neutral and biodegradable.  When it's applied to your plants it covers the foliage with an invisible membrane, protecting them from frosts, sunburn, windburn, and wilting from excessive moisture loss. It doesn't prevent them from being able to photosynthesize and breathe (take in carbon dioxide and release oxygen). You can find the product online through The Garden Super Store based in QLD.  Here's a link to their website Garden Shop | 1000's Of Products | The Garden Superstore Envy Frost and Sunburn Protectant Timing of pruning As with our roses, some plants are better off NOT to be pruned too heavily until the time of the season, when the risk of frosts has lessened. Most plants in general will slow down with their growth over the colder months, when the days lengths are shorter, and there is less sunshine and warmth. Pruning and feeding some plants too soon prior to Spring may encourage a flush of fresh new growth leaving in vulnerable frosts. Gardening is so rewarding, in more ways than I can mention, but it can be costly too. When it comes to some of the unexpected nasty frosts we often have here in our region, it's worth going that extra mile to implement a few measures to safeguard your plants, ensuring their health and survival. By taking proactive steps such as following the weather forecasts, covering your plants, and considering you planting location options, you can minimize the risks associated with frost damage and promote the longevity of your garden. Remember, prevention is key in preventing frostburn! Happy Gardening😘🪴  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Healthy Prayer Plant Written and edited by Tammy 9th May 2025 We’ve all been there. You buy a beautiful healthy plant full of optimism and good intentions, plant it with love, and wait… only to watch it struggle, sulk, or completely check out. Plants can be a bit mysterious, but usually, there’s a good reason they’re not living their best life. Thankfully it's normally something straight forward and more importantly, an easy fix. Below, I’ve outlined the 10 of the most common causes of plant failure, so you can troubleshoot the problem and get your plants back on track. Why Your Plants Are Dying: 10 Common Reasons and How to Fix Them Overwatering Underwatering Nutrient deficiency Incorrect light Wrong soil pH Pests & Diseases Poor soil structure Root-bound or Pot-bound Temperature Extremes Lack of Care & Observation 1. Overwatering – When Roots Can’t Breathe One of the most common reasons plants die is too much water. Poor drainage or heavy clay soil can suffocate plant roots, causing them to rot. Overwatered plants often show yellowing leaves, drooping foliage, or leaf drop. I know that’s confusing, as underwatered plants can display the same symptoms, but the biggest clue will be that the soil is wet. Indoor plants can suffer the same fate when we pot them directly into decorative or “cover” pots that usually only have one small drainage hole in the centre, or worse, none at all. Without proper drainage, excess water has nowhere to escape and the roots sit in constant moisture. It’s best to keep indoor plants in the black growers’ pots they originally come in, where water can drain freely. These can then be placed inside decorative outer pots for display. That way, we get the look we love without compromising root health. Fix: Out in your garden, improve drainage with compost, gypsum, or coarse sand. Alternatively, use raised beds or pots with drainage holes. Ensure automatic watering systems are functioning correctly and not running for too long or too often. For indoor plants, if you're not confident in your judgement, pick up a moisture meter probe from any garden centre or plant nursery, it will eliminate any doubt. Aroids like pothos, monstera and philodendrons love their well-draining, chunky mixes. Keep indoor plants in a black growers pot inside the cover pot as growers pot have far better drainage. ⸻ 2. Underwatering – Hydrophobic Soil and Dry Roots On the flip side, underwatering and dry soil can prevent roots from absorbing water. Hydrophobic soil repels water and is as unhelpful as it sounds. It's often seen out in the garden when water pools on the soil surface. Some potting mixes, particularly peat moss, are almost impossible to rehydrate once they're too dry. The potting mix shrinks away from the sides of the pot allowing water to drain away too quickly without even touching the soil. Fix: Apply a wetting agent like Wetta Soil each season to your garden beds, raised beds and containers. Wetta soil breaks down the waxy coating on the surface of the soil that causes it to be non-wetting. Dress garden beds with a generous layer of mulch to hold the moisture in and prevent dehydration. For indoor plants, soak the whole pot in a bucket of water until air bubbles stop rising to surface. If the plant is extremely dehydrated, shrivelled, wilted or the foliage has collapsed, it's absolutely fine to leave it soaking overnight. It may take that long for the plant to rehydrate enough to stand up again. Related: The Benefits of Mulching – All Covered ⸻ 3. Nutrient Deficiency – Hungry Plants If your plant looks pale and yellow, is stunted and just not growing, it might be starving. Nutrient-poor soil, especially in pots, can quickly lead to weak, stunted growth. Fix: Feed your plants regularly throughout the growing season (generally the warmer months) using a combination of organic slow-release fertilisers, liquid feeds, worm castings, or compost. Layering your plant’s “meals” ensures a steady supply of nutrition, and consequently happier healthy, thriving plants. Fertilisers break down and are available to your plants at different rates so don't fret that you're overdoing it, they won't take it all in at once. Related: Which Fertiliser Should I Use? ⸻ 4. Incorrect Light – Sunburn or Stretching Light plays a critical role in plant health. Too much sun can burn and scorch leaves, where too little causes leggy, weak growth and a lack of blooms. Fix: Know your plant’s light requirements. Move shade loving plants out of direct sun and give full sun plants the exposure they need. For indoor plants, “filtered light” means a bright spot without direct sunlight. ⸻ 5. Wrong Soil pH – Nutrients Lock up If your plant isn’t responding to fertiliser despite your best efforts, your soil pH might be off. Soil that’s too acidic or alkaline can block nutrient absorption or result in toxicity. Fix: Test your soil using a pH test kit or pH meter available from most garden centres. Add garden lime to raise pH (increase alkalinity) or elemental sulphur to lower it (increase acidity). Monitor it regularly to pick up on any changes and amend when required. Matching your soil pH to plants preferences can make all the difference. Related: Soil pH – The Nitty Gritty of It All ⸻ 6. Pests and Diseases – Silent Killers If your plant is spotted, curled, sticky, or being eaten, chances are it’s under attack. Common garden pests include aphids, scale, and mealybugs. Fungal diseases like Black Spot, Rust and Powdery Mildew also cause major setbacks. Fix: Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or a strong blast of water to deal with pests. Encourage beneficials critters like ladybirds as their favourite food source is the aphid! For fungal issues, try fungicides like lime sulphur or copper, alternatively natural remedies like milk spray can often be just as effective too. Prune regularly to improve airflow and prevent future problems. Related: Help! My Plant is Sick black spot powdery mildew ⸻ 7. Poor Soil Structure – Compaction and Lack of Organic Matter High traffic areas like your lawn can suffer compaction. If your garden soil is hard, crusty, or drains poorly, plant roots will struggle to grow and absorb water or nutrients. Fix: Loosen the soil to aerate it with a garden fork. Mix in compost, aged manure, or organic matter to improve texture and fertility. Healthy soil equals healthy plants. ⸻ 8. Root-Bound Plants – No Room to Grow Plants eventually outgrow their pots or run out of space. If roots are circling the base or growing out of drainage holes, your plant may be root-bound or pot-bound. Fix: Repot into a slightly larger container. Assess the health of the roots and gently tease them out before planting. Outdoors, avoid spacing plants too close together to allow roots room to expand. ⸻ 9. Temperature Extremes – Hot or Cold Shock Frost, heatwaves, or sudden temperature shifts can cause stress, wilting, or even death in sensitive plants. Fix: Protect tender plants with frost cloth or shade in extreme heat. Avoid planting sensitive species during seasonal transitions. Indoors, keep plants away from heaters, air conditioners, or drafty windows. ⸻ 10. Lack of Care and Observation – Plants Need Attention Plants can’t talk, but they do show signs when something’s wrong. They have a clever ability to communicate through a complex array of visual cues and physiological changes that can indicate distress or health issues. Fix: Check your plants often. Look for yellowing, drooping, insect damage, or odd growth. Water only when needed. Prune and tidy regularly. The more time you spend with your plants, the better you’ll understand them, and the faster you’ll spot when something is going on that’s not quite right. ⸻ Your plants aren’t dying for no reason; they’re trying to tell you something. With a little observation and the right response, most issues can be fixed. Patience is crucial, healing a struggling plant often takes time, as it needs to adjust to any changes you make in its environment or care routine. It might involve gradually altering watering schedules, adjusting light exposure, or even repotting if it has outgrown its current container. During the process, it’s essential to monitor your plant closely, as it may respond positively or negatively to the adjustments you made. Take note of any changes in growth patterns or leaf colouration, as these observations can guide you in fine-tuning your care approach. Remember, gardening is not just about planting and watering; it’s about building a relationship with nature. Treat your plants with kindness and care, and they’ll reward you in spades. Happy Gardening 😘🪴 Other posts you might enjoy...... Help! My plant is sick! Diagnosing what’s wrong with a sick or dying plant can be tricky stuff, they can exhibit a whole host of symptoms that may indicate different underlying issues. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/help-my-plant-is-sick Which fertiliser should I use? One of the most important jobs at the top of everyone's 'to do list' right now is to feed your gardens. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/which-fertiliser-should-i-use What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work..... https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/what-is-eating-my-seedlings  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Backyard enclosed compost pile. Thinking about starting a compost pile but not sure where to begin? You’re in the right place! Composting is one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to turn kitchen scraps and garden waste into rich, nutrient-packed soil food. Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or a tiny balcony, composting is totally doable and surprisingly fun. In this beginners guide I’ll break it all down step-by-step so you can start transforming your kitchen and garden waste into garden gold. But first let’s quickly look at the benefits of composting The Environmental Benefits of Composting Composting goes beyond just creating rich, nutrient-dense soil. Waste Reduction : When you compost garden waste and food scraps, you stop it from going to landfill where it would rot without air and create methane, a powerful greenhouse gas. Methane is the nasty stuff we don't want to be producing as it's bad for our planet. It traps in way more heat than carbon dioxide. So, by composting, you're cutting down on harmful emissions and shrinking your carbon footprint. That’s definitely something to feel good about! Soil Enrichment: Composting breaks down organic waste, like food scraps, leaves, and grass clippings, into a dark, rich material called humus . Humus is full of nutrients that help feed your plants. When added to soil, it improves the soil’s structure, helps it retain moisture, and supports healthy microbial life. In short, humus makes your soil healthier, more fertile, and better able to support strong, thriving plants. Biodiversity Boost : Mature compost contains a diverse community of beneficial microorganisms, fungi, and earthworms that enhance your soils ecosystem. This biodiversity doesn’t just support plant growth, but it also builds resilience in your plants against pests and diseases. Reduction in Chemical Use : When you feed your garden with rich, homemade compost, you’re giving it all the nutrients it needs, naturally. Over time, this reduces or better still, eliminates the need for synthetic fertilisers and chemical sprays which is ultimately better for your veggies, better for the bees, and just better all round! Plus, relying too heavily on synthetic fertilisers can actually throw your soil’s pH out of balance, often leading to increased acidity, just another reason to stick with the good stuff, compost and organic matter. Water Conservation : Compost improves soil’s ability to retain moisture, reducing how often you need to be out there turning a tap on. This in itself is particularly important as regions like ours face more frequent droughts. Gardens regularly and generously top dressed with good compost can realistically cut watering needs in half. So there’s 5 very good reasons you should be busting at the seams. Now to get stuck into building a compost, so let’s do it! Setting Up Your Composting System: A Step-by-Step Guide Step 1: Choose a Compost Bin Start by selecting the type of compost bin that works best for you. Options include: Open Pile : Ideal for larger spaces and natural decomposition. It can handle larger quantities but may attract pests if not managed carefully. Bin : A simple and tidy choice for small gardens or patios. Many designs are aesthetically pleasing and keep odours at bay. Tumbler : An enclosed composter is great for aeration and speed, it allows for easy mixing and quick results, though they can be a tad more expensive. Check out this one below 👇😁 https://www.mitre10.com.au/greendew-tumbling-composter-60l-7477573 Step 2: Select a Location Pick a dry, shaded area with good drainage in your garden. A location close to your kitchen is ideal for easy access to add scraps, particularly if you’ve chosen to go with a smaller more mobile option like a bin or tumbler . Step 3: Gather Materials Collect a mix of “greens” (nitrogen-rich materials) and “browns” (carbon-rich materials). Greens : Fresh vegetable scraps, fruit peels, coffee grounds, and freshly cut grass clippings. Browns : Dead Autumn leaves (preferably 2-3 bags), straw, shredded newspaper, and cardboard pieces. ( not the waxy coated cardboard). Step 4: Layering Your Compost Begin by adding a layer of browns, followed by a layer of greens. Alternate layers until your bin or pile is full. THE GOLDEN RULE Aim for a “1:3 ratio”, one-part green materials to three parts brown materials, as this achieves optimal decomposition. ( so for example 1kg of greens to 3kg of browns) TIP** Using the 1:3 ratio of greens to browns  in composting is really important because it keeps the process balanced. “Greens” add nitrogen, while “browns” add carbon. Too many greens and your compost can turn slimy and smelly. Too many browns, and it breaks down too slowly. A good mix helps your pile heat up, break down faster. Step 5: Maintain Your Compost Turn the pile every few weeks to introduce air and speed up the decomposition process. If your compost looks dry, lightly spritz it with water; it should feel moist, like a damp sponge. Step 6: Harvest Your Compost In about 3 to 6 months, your compost will be ready! It should have a crumbly texture and earthy smell. Remove any large, undecomposed pieces. Tips for Using Compost Effectively in Your Garden Once you've created your own homemade compost, it’s time to maximise your garden's productivity. Here’s what you can do with it. 1. Soil Amendment Before planting, add compost into your garden beds to enhance soil texture and nutrients. It’s important to mix the compost into your existing soil rather than using compost alone. Doing it this way creates a consistent environment, so young plant roots don’t struggle with a sudden change in texture, moisture, or nutrients as they grow outwards, which in turn will help your plants to settle in easily. 2. Mulching Utilise your compost as a mulch. Spread a generous layer around your gardens to help suppress weeds and retain moisture. Not only will it help keep the weeds at bay and the moisture in, but it will continue to feed your plants and soil as it breaks down further. 3. Compost Tea Create a nutrient-rich "compost tea" ( home made liquid fertiliser) by steeping your compost in water for 2-3 days. This liquid fertiliser can be used to water your plants or sprayed directly on leaves for an extra nutrient kick. 4. Top-Dressing Established Plants Apply a thin layer of compost around established plants for a slow release of nutrients throughout the growing season. This keeps plants robust and thriving, leading to increased yields, and continual blooms. 5. Monitor Plant Health Pay attention to your plants for signs of nutrient deficiency or excess. Adjust the compost quantity you use based on what your garden needs. Healthy Thriving Vegetable Seedlings Composting is more than a sustainable practice; it's a rewarding way to elevate your gardening experience. By recycling waste, enriching your soil, and fostering biodiversity, you’ll contribute to a healthier environment while enhancing the health of your plants and garden. Happy composting!😘🪴  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Beautiful drought conscious landscaped garden example Written and edited by Tammy Johnson 30th May 2025 With climate patterns shifting and drought becoming a more common reality for so many of us, as gardeners we’re faced with the new challenge of how to keep our gardens thriving with less water. Gardening during dry times isn’t about giving up and accepting defeat, it’s about getting smart and creative. By embracing some simple alternatives, our gardens can become more resilient, sustainable, and beautiful than ever. Drought tolerant gardening concepts to embrace 1. Rethink Your Plant Choices One of the best ways to drought-proof your garden is to choose plants that are naturally adapted to dry conditions. Look for Australian native species or drought-tolerant plants like salvia, lavender, echinacea, rosemary, ornamental grasses and succulents. Plants like these not only survive but thrive with minimal water, often have lower nutritional requirements, and most attract pollinators too. Tip: Group plants with similar water needs together. This technique, known as hydrozoning, helps prevent overwatering and makes irrigation more efficient. ⸻ 2. Improve Your Soil’s Water-Holding Capacity. Healthy soil is like a sponge; it retains moisture and feeds your plants at the same time. You can improve your soil’s drought resistance by adding organic matter such as compost, worm castings, or well-rotted manure. These amendments boost microbial life, increase water retention, and help plants grow deeper, more drought-tolerant roots. Bonus: A thick layer of mulch (3–4 inches) helps to regulate soil temperature, suppress weeds, and reduce evaporation. ⸻ 3. Water Smarter, Not More Instead of watering on a fixed schedule, water deeply and less frequently. Deep watering encourages plants to grow roots further down, where the soil stays moist longer. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems to deliver water directly to the base of plants, minimising waste from evaporation or runoff. In our region Naracoorte SA and surroundings where hard water is problematic, drip irrigation and soaker hoses also eliminate the issue of hard minerals spoiling plant foliage. Pro tips: Water in the early morning to reduce loss from evaporation and regularly check and maintain your irrigation fixtures and fittings for calcium buildup that can block and prevent it working efficiently. ⸻ 4. Catch, save and utilise rainwater. Install rainwater tanks to capture water from your house and shed rooves. The volume of water that can be harvested from one good storm or rain event can potentially keep your entire garden alive for months. Low-tech hack: Dig small shallow trenches in your garden beds to help capture and retain rainwater where your plants need it most. ⸻ 5. Wicking Beds Wicking beds in recent years have become a popular alternative way to contain and grow your vegetables. They work by drawing water up from a reservoir at the bottom of the garden bed, so the soil stays moist from below. This reduces evaporation, encourages deep root growth, and means you don’t need to water anywhere near as often. Check out this link below to a short video where Sophie Thompson of the ABCs Gardening Australia demonstrates setting a wicking bed up using an IBC. It’s very clever! https://youtu.be/obNWr8MD0uU?si=L3kyMReen6Lp6-eZ ⸻ 6. Reimagine Your Lawn Traditional turf grass is one of the thirstiest parts of the average yard. Consider reducing your lawn footprint or replacing some of it with beautiful meandering sweeping paths that invite you into different areas, or with ground covers like creeping thyme, dichondra repens, or native grasses. These alternatives are not only drought-tolerant but also add texture and I interest to your landscape. ⸻ 7. Add pieces of garden art Add beautiful big rocks, boulders, hollow logs, or other pieces of garden art. A few large features like these ‘fill in’ space where you might otherwise have placed plants the need water and nutrition. They look amazing but best yet have no upkeep. Think about your garden as a whole ecosystem. Use windbreaks, shade structures, or strategic planting to create microclimates that reduce water needs. Even something as simple as planting taller, sun-loving plants on the west side of a garden bed can provide afternoon shade for more delicate species. Drought doesn’t have to mean the end of lush, thriving gardens. It’s simply an invitation to shift our habits, get creative, and work with nature instead of against it. By embracing some simple changes and adapting to ways of drought tolerant gardening, we’re not just conserving water, we’re building gardens that can weather the future, no matter how dry it gets. As always Happy Gardening 😘🪴 Some more hardy plant suggestions for you. Perennials & Shrubs Lavandula angustifolia (English Lavender) Salvia greggii or Salvia microphylla Westringia fruticosa (Coastal Rosemary) Santolina chamaecyparissus (Lavender Cotton) Echium plantagineum (Paterson’s Curse) Convolvulous Cneorum ( Silver Bush) Artemisia spp. (Wormwood) Echinacea purpurea (Coneflower) Erysimum (Wallflower) Bracteantha (Everlasting or paper daisies) Rhagodia parabolica (Salt bush "Grey Edge") Calocephalus brownii (Silver cushion bush) Scenecio cineraria (Dusty Miller or Silver Ragwort) ⸻ Grasses & Groundcovers Thymus serpyllum (Creeping Thyme) Dichondra repens (Kidney Weed) Festuca glauca (Blue Fescue) Lomandra longifia and confertifia Poa Labillardierei (Tussock Grass) Pycnosorus globosus (Billy Buttons) Myoporum parvifolium (Yareena™️) ⸻ Australian Natives Westringia fruticosa (Coastal Rosemary) Eremophila Glabra ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ Grevillea (Bronze Rambler) Callistemon (Kings Park Special) Among others. Correa Alba (White Correa) ⸻ Cacti, Euphorbia & Succulents, Cotyledon Orbiculata (pigs ears) Sedum Herbstfreude (Autumn Joy Creeping Stonecrop) Crassula ovata (Jade Plant) Agave spp. Attenuata Aloe striata (Coral Aloe) Dracaena (Dragon tree) Euphorbia Martinii (Baby Charm). Trigona (African Milk Tree) Cacti- Many varieties. You might also like How to save water in the garden💦👀 There are lots of simple measures we can take to save water in our gardens potentially saving us hundreds of dollars a year. 12 of the best Silver Grey foliage plants When it comes to searching for plants for your garden that are, hardy, drought tolerant, frost tolerant all the while looking smart and stylish in design, look for plants with silver or grey coloured foliage. Hard water-The cold, hard facts. Hands up who knows why we have such hard water here in the Limestone Coast? There's a little clue in that I'm going to share with you....  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Moss-the Winter lawn invader Written and edited by Tammy 27th July 2025 That soft, velvety green carpet, the kind everyone was proud to have running up the hallway in the '70s, might’ve looked great inside… but taking over your lawn? Not so much. Welcome moss! Another moisture-loving guest that thrives in shady, compacted spots. While it’s not dangerous, moss can slowly smother out grass if left unchecked. Luckily, the same lawn-improving habits that deter slime mould, aeration, drainage, careful watering, will help you fight moss too. How to Manage It Without Waging War on Your Lawn If your lawn’s starting to look more like a soft green carpet than a patch of turf, chances are you’ve got a moss situation on your hands. Moss is one of those quiet invaders, it doesn’t yell or cause chaos, it just gradually creeps in, especially in spots where your grass is having a hard time. The good news is you don’t need harsh chemicals or an all-out turf war to fix it. A few tweaks to your lawn care routine can shift the balance back in favour of healthy grass. What Causes Moss in Lawns? Moss thrives where grass struggles. That means: Shady areas (under trees, beside fences, etc.) Damp, poorly drained soil Compacted ground that roots can’t penetrate Low soil fertility or very acidic conditions Thin or patchy turf cover Basically, if moss is thriving, it's nature’s way of waving a little flag to let you know something's a little off. Is Moss Bad for My Lawn? Not exactly. Moss doesn’t kill grass directly, but it does  move into the bare patches where grass is struggling or has already given up. If left to do its thing, it can take over and make it harder for lawn to re-establish. Unlike fungus or slime mould, that go on their own, moss is a plant that will continue to thrive when provided with the right conditions. How to Get Rid of Moss (Kindly) If you’re keen to evict it gently but firmly, here are a few lawn-loving, eco-friendly strategies: Rake it out Use a spring tine rake or dethatching rake to physically lift the moss out. It’s satisfying in that “garden workout” kind of way! Aerate compacted areas A garden fork or lawn aerator helps roots breathe and improves drainage. Top dress with compost and sand This helps level out dips and boosts microbial life that supports healthy turf. Over sow thin patches Thicken up your grass to outcompete moss. Choose a shade-tolerant lawn seed if light is limited. Check soil pH Moss loves acidic soil. If your pH is low, (acidic) a gentle sprinkle of garden lime can help raise things up (but test first!). Let the light in! Prune back any overgrown shrubs or overhanging tree branches to let light back in to your lawn. For the “Do-Something” Types… If you feel like you have  spray something, try one of these gentler options: Vinegar & water spray : Use in dry weather and spot test first. Moss hates acidity too but so does grass in large doses. Bicarb solution : 1 tablespoon baking soda to 1 litre of water, sprayed lightly. Won’t kill the lawn but helps dry moss. Iron sulphate : A common, lawn-safe moss treatment when used as directed. Bonus: it greens up your grass too. Moss isn’t your enemy, but it is  a sign that your lawn could use a little TLC. If you focus on improving the conditions that moss loves (damp, shade, compaction), you’ll not only get on top of the moss issue but help your lawn come back better than ever. No drama, no harsh chemicals, just a little backyard balance. Keep warm, enjoy the rain. Happy Gardening 😘🪴 Other Posts You Might be Interested In How Frost Affects Plants & Tips for Preventing Frostburn When our plants are exposed to frost, this is what happens:  1. Plant Tissues Freeze:  The sub-zero temperatures cause the water within the plant cells to freeze.... Composting - the Beginners Guide! Thinking about starting a compost pile but not sure where to begin? Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or a tiny balcony, composting is totally doable and surprisingly fun. In this beginner guide I’ll break it all down step-by-step...... What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together. Adapting to Drought Tolerant Gardening: Thriving in the Dry. Gardening during dry times isn’t about giving up and accepting defeat, it’s about getting smart and creative. By embracing some simple alternatives, our gardens can become more resilient, sustainable, and beautiful than ever. Slime Mould in Your Winter Lawn? What it is and How to deal It Slime mould is one of nature’s weird little wonders, an odd-looking, harmless organism that’s often mistaken for something sinister. It’s not actually a fungus (or mould in the true sense) but a fungus-like 'stuff' that thrives in damp, organic-rich environments.  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Slime mould Written and edited by Tammy 27th July 2025 If you're anything like me, even on the coldest, wettest wintery days I still grab a moment or two here and there to wander out on the lawn for some fresh air and a reality check before grabbing another chunk of wood for the fire. But have you ever come to a grinding halt, horrified by sight of some weird, gelatinous goo that looked like it came from another planet? What Is Slime Mould? Slime mould is one of nature’s weird little wonders, an odd-looking, harmless organism that’s often mistaken for something sinister. It’s not actually a fungus (or mould in the true sense) but a fungus-like 'stuff' that thrives in damp, organic-rich environments. It doesn’t feed on your grass, just the decaying bits, like bacteria, leaf litter, and organic matter. You might spot it as jelly-like blobs, powdery smears, or even as foamy splashes that look like someone spilled a bucket of paint across your lawn. Spooky? A bit. Dangerous? Not at all. These little blobs usually pop up after rain, heavy dew, or long stints of overcast, cloudy, damp weather, especially in shady or poorly drained corners of the yard. Is Slime Mould Harmful to Lawns? The short answer? No. It might look  a little, alarming and unsightly, but slime mould won't harm your grass. At worst, a thick patch of it might momentarily block some sunlight if it blankets the grass thick enough, but once things dry out, it’ll usually disappear all on its own. So if you can live with it for a little while, do! It’s part of a living, breathing ecosystem under your feet. How to Get Rid of Slime Mould (If You’re Not a Fan) Ok I get it. It doesn't tick the box for 'aesthetics', quite likely a slip hazard for grandma on her way to the washing line, and definitely not what you'd like the curious grandies playing in or adding to their mud pies. So, if waiting for it to leave on its own isn't an option, here's a few safe and simple things you could try: Rake it lightly or brush it off  with a broom, nothing too aggressive, just enough to break it up and get the air flowing. It'll dry out much faster with a bit of encouragement. Ease up on the watering , especially if you've had decent rainfall lately (like we have!). Your soil’s likely hanging onto plenty of moisture already. If you’ve got automatic sprinklers running, it might be time to hit pause for a bit, no need to overdo it when nature’s already doing the job for you. Keep the grass mown  to reduce thatch buildup and let the air and sunlight in to ground level. Thatch acts like a sponge and creates the perfect hideout for moisture-loving organisms like slime mould. Improve air circulation and drainage , consider aerating compacted areas or using a soil wetter in hydrophobic spots to help water soak in more evenly.   Encourage beneficial soil life , adding compost or worm castings supports microbes that naturally compete with unwanted fungi and slime. Topdress low, soggy areas  with a mix of sand and compost to even out dips and improve surface drainage. Let the chooks help  A gentle scratch around (supervised of course) can disturb the mould, dry the area out, and even reduce pests while they’re at it. Let them out for a scratch around on the lawn occasionally, they’ll aerate, de-thatch and snack on bugs all in one go. For the “Spray-and-Walk-Away” Crowd If the frustration gets the better of you, here are a couple of gentle, garden-safe options that still feel  like you're doing something, without harming your lawn or your soil: Diluted vinegar spray : Mix 1 part white vinegar with 4 parts water and lightly spray the slime mould to help dry it out faster. Just go easy, vinegar in strong doses can affect surrounding grass and soil microbes if overused. Lemon juice and water mix : Mild, citrusy, and smells better than vinegar! Same idea, use it as a light mist, not a dousing. Sprinkle a little garden lime : Not to kill it, but to help raise the pH slightly and discourage future growth in really acidic, damp spots. Just a light dusting, too much lime can throw your soil balance out of whack. Bicarb spray (baking soda) : 1 tablespoon of bicarb in a litre of water can help dry and discourage some fungal-like growths. It’s gentle and safe, just don’t soak the area. Important: These remedies are more about satisfying that “doing something” itch, they’re not miracle cures. But they won’t harm your soil like harsh fungicides would either. Always spot test first and apply sparingly. Slime mould might look like something straight out of a sci-fi, but really, in all honesty it's just nature doing its thing. In fact, it’s a quirky little sign that your soil is full of organic matter and teeming with microscopic life. So, unless it’s really bothering you, take a deep breath and move on to the next check box on the 'garden to do list'. It’ll be gone before you know it and your lawn will be no worse for wear. Keep warm and enjoy this beautiful winter rains. Happy Gardening 😘🪴 Other Posts You Might be Interested In Moss In Winter Lawns That soft, velvety green carpet, the kind everyone was proud to have running up the hallway in the '70s, might’ve looked great inside… but taking over your lawn? Not so much. Welcome moss! Another moisture-loving guest that thrives in shady, compacted spots. Composting - the Beginners Guide! Thinking about starting a compost pile but not sure where to begin? Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or a tiny balcony, composting is totally doable and surprisingly fun. In this beginner guide I’ll break it all down step-by-step...... What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together.  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Written and edited by Tammy 13th Aug 2025 We're well into the last month of winter and you can definitely feel spring is in the air! There are a few really important jobs on most gardeners to do lists right now, and if you own any stone fruits this is one of them-treating for leaf curl. Leaf curl is a fungal disease (caused by Taphrina deformans ) that mainly attacks peaches and nectarines. It shows up in spring when new leaves emerge thickened, puckered, and often red or yellow, eventually becoming dry and distorted. Over the winter months the microscopic fungal spores continue to live on the tree hiding in tiny crevices in the bark and around the dormant buds. When the weather is cool and wet in late winter and into early spring, the spores become active. As the buds swell and leaves begin to emerge, the spores infect the soft new growth, starting the cycle all over again. Because leaf curl infection happens right at bud burst , your one chance to stop it is during bud swell , that stage where the buds are plump, showing a hint of colour, but before the leaves open. Once the leaves emerge, it’s too late for prevention. What to do: Spray with a copper-based fungicide  (such as copper oxychloride or copper hydroxide). Ensure thorough coverage  of all branches and buds. If the weather stays dry, follow up with a second spray about a week later  for extra protection. A couple of well-timed sprays now can save you from months of distorted, damaged leaves, and set you up for a bumper crop of beautiful fruit. 🍑 If leaf curl isn’t managed, over time it can take quite a toll on your stone fruit trees. Weakened growth:  Repeated attacks drain the tree’s energy as it tries to replace the damaged leaves. Reduced fruiting:  Fewer healthy leaves mean less photosynthesis, which means less energy for flowers and fruit, yields can drop significantly. Smaller, poorer-quality fruit:  Any fruit that does develop is often small, misshapen, or slow to ripen. Increased vulnerability:  A stressed tree is more prone to other pests, diseases, and even cold or drought damage. Progressive decline:  Severe, repeated infections over several years can lead to dieback of branches and, in extreme cases, the loss of the tree. For home gardeners, that can mean going from a basket of juicy peaches to barely enough for a snack, or eventually no crop at all. Prevention is far easier (and cheaper) than trying to nurse a badly infected tree back to health. Think of leaf curl like that uninvited guest who turns up every year right when the party’s about to start, only this one eats all your snacks and wrecks the furniture. A quick spray or two at the right time keeps the gate closed, your leaves lovely, and your peaches plentiful. Happy gardening 😘🍑  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻 Other posts you might find interesting How Frost Affects Plants & Tips for Preventing Frostburn Frosts are among the greatest adversaries for gardeners throughout the colder months. Days with clear, sunny skies often lead to subzero temperatures overnight, causing frosts to occur. Without being pro- active and having measures in place, the results can be detrimental. What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together. Beginners Guide to Creating a landscape design for your new home Creating your own landscape design  can be one of the most exciting and rewarding parts of moving into a new home. It’s your opportunity to shape the outdoor space into something that’s not only beautiful, but functional and your own. Whether you envision a lush garden, a modern patio, or a family-friendly backyard, it all starts with a solid plan. Composting - the Beginners Guide! Thinking about starting a compost pile but not sure where to begin? You’re in the right place! Composting is one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to turn kitchen scraps and garden waste into rich, nutrient-packed soil food. Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or a tiny balcony, composting is totally doable and surprisingly fun. In this beginners guide I’ll break it all down step-by-step so you can start transforming your kitchen and garden waste into garden gold.

Written and edited by Tammy 26th October 2025 Ok, hands up who's having issues with Aphids right now?? If I had a dollar for every gardener I've seen within the last few weeks pleading for help with aphids, I could almost take the rest of the year off unpaid! So, what does this tell us? Quite clearly aphids are having a ball breeding up a storm! The mild start we’ve had to spring, not a lot of heat and regular rain is just what they love. It sees these tiny sap-suckers busy setting up camp on fruit trees, roses and ornamentals right throughout our gardens. What Are Aphids Aphids are tiny little sap-sucking critters from the insect family Aphididae, and once spring kicks into gear, they seem to appear out of nowhere. Unlike other insects that lay eggs, aphids give birth to live young so a few can turn into a whole army almost overnight. They’re soft-bodied, usually green, black or brown, and only a few millimetres long. You’ll often find them clustered on new shoots, under leaves, and along young stems where they pierce the plant and drink its sap. This constant feeding can cause leaves to curl, buds to twist, and fresh growth to look distorted or stunted. If their feeding habits weren't bad enough, aphids love to leave their calling card. That shiny, sticky residue you see all over the leaves? That's their secretion, a sugary waste product called honeydew. Over time the honeydew goes mouldy (black sooty mould) and that becomes an open invite for ants to join the party. Most commonly seen species Let’s take a look at the most common aphid species you’re likely seeing in your backyard, what signs to look out for, and how to tackle infestations using gentle, Integrated Pest Management (IPM) methods that keep your garden, and its' helpful critters, in balance. Rose Aphids, Green Peach Aphids, Black Bean Aphids and Leaf Curl Plum Aphids are the 4 most problematic species in our gardens right now in spring. Tip** There is also a little fuzzy grey/ green one (Cabbage Aphid) we see commonly throughout winter making itself at home amongst the Brassicas, so keep that in mind, the means of dealing with them when you come across them will be the same. Clockwise from top left: close up images of rose aphids, black bean aphids, cabbage aphids and curl leaf plum aphids. Check through the table here below for the characteristics of these 4 aphids. Feature Rose Aphid  ( Macrosiphum rosae ) Green Peach Aphid  ( Myzus persicae ) Black Bean Aphid  ( Aphis fabae ) Leaf-Curl Plum Aphid  ( Brachycaudus helichrysi ) Main Hosts Roses and ornamental shrubs Stone fruits (peach, nectarine, plum), brassicas, ornamentals Broad beans, beetroot, many ornamentals and weeds Plums, and stone fruit Colour Light green to pinkish or reddish-brown Pale to bright green, sometimes with reddish tinge Deep brown to black, often shiny Early season brownish, later yellow-green Body Shape Long and slender Shorter, rounder, pear-shaped Rounded and chunky Small and oval; slightly flattened Size 2–3 mm 1.5–2 mm 2 mm 1.5–2 mm Damage Symptoms Twisted or distorted rose buds and new shoots Curling and puckering of young leaves; sticky honeydew Dense colonies on stems and underside of leaves; yellowing or stunting Strong leaf curling and twisting; premature fruit drop on plums Texture / Look Slightly translucent Smooth, more opaque Matte to shiny black Glossy, sometimes with slight waxy coating Other Clues Found on rose buds and new growth; visible clusters Found under leaves and new shoots of stone fruit Often attended by ants; large, obvious colonies Found early in spring; often causes leaf curl similar to peach leaf curl fungus Signs & evidence of an infestation When you’re surveying your garden here’s what to keep an eye out for: Clusters of tiny insects (often 1–3 mm) on new shoots, tender growth, underside of leaves, tips of branches. Leaves that are curling, twisted, puckered or distorted (especially on fruit trees). Buds failing to open or appearing deformed in roses or fruit trees. Sticky residue (honeydew) on the leaves or branches or on surfaces beneath the plant. This may lead to black sooty mould. Discoloured leaves (yellowing, pale patches) where sap has been removed. Presence of ants on the plant (ants often “farm” aphids for honeydew, protecting them from predators). Winged aphids appearing, a sign the colony is at high density and dispersal is occurring. Particularly on fruit trees: check new growth and behind leaves, inspect the tips of branches. Integrated Pest Management (IPM): Fancy terminology for 'there's more than one way to deal with it ' Using an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach is all about working with  nature, not against it. Instead of reaching straight for spray, it’s about building a balanced plan that keeps pests in check, encourages the good bugs (like ladybugs🐞) to stick around and help out, and keeps your whole garden ecosystem healthy. There're 4 simple practices in IPM Cultural & preventive Biological control & beneficials Mechanical/physical control Chemical or organic treatments (when necessary) Cultural & preventive practices The best way to keep aphids under control is to stop them from getting too comfortable in the first place. Keep your plants healthy with good soil, steady feeding, and not too much nitrogen, all that lush, sappy growth is like an open buffet for them! Give your plants a bit of breathing space so air can circulate and you can keep a better watchful eye on what's going on and who your guests are. It also helps to do a quick once-over during spring, especially on new growth and rose tips, where aphids love to gather. And don’t forget the power of companion planting, nasturtiums make great decoys, while flowering herbs and annuals will draw in the helpful predators who'll happily snack on the aphids for you. Biological control & beneficials One of the best allies you can have in the garden are the good bugs, those tiny helpers that naturally keep aphid numbers down. Ladybirds, lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps all love a good aphid feast, so do what you can to make them feel at home. Grow a mix of flowering herbs and annuals so they’ve got nectar and pollen to feed on, and go easy on the sprays, broad-spectrum insecticides might knock out a few aphids, but they also wipe out your beneficials, which often makes the problem bounce back worse than before. If you notice ants hanging around, it’s usually because they’re farming the aphids for their sticky honeydew. Try using barriers or baits to keep the ants at bay so your natural predators can get on with their work. Mechanical/physical control Sometimes the simplest fixes work best. A strong jet of water from the hose is often all it takes to blast aphids off stems and leaves, especially on roses and shrubs where they like to cluster. If a few spots are really crowded, just pinch or prune out the worst of it and pop the cuttings in the bin (not the compost). For smaller outbreaks, sticky traps or reflective mulch can help confuse flying aphids before they land, and if you’ve got a potted plant that’s heavily infested, move it aside for a bit so the problem doesn’t spread to its neighbours. Little steps like these make a big difference without reaching for the spray bottle. insect mesh Chemical or organic treatments (when necessary) If you’ve tried all the gentle options and the aphids are still hanging on, it might be time to step things up a notch, carefully. Go for softer choices like insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, which are safe for roses and fruit trees and work by coating the aphids rather than leaving harsh residues. Make sure to cover the undersides of leaves and new shoots where they like to hide and always follow the label directions to the letter. Try to spray early in the morning or later in the evening when beneficial insects are less active and check back after a few days to see how things are going, a second light spray might be needed for stubborn colonies. Think of sprays as a last resort, not the first tool you grab. The goal is balance, not a bug-free garden. Once you’ve treated the problem, keep a casual eye on things over the next few weeks. Pay attention to whether the aphids are easing off, the new growth is bouncing back, and the helpful bugs, like ladybirds and hoverflies, are around. Jot down what worked (and what didn’t) so you’re ready for this time next season. Fruit trees are most at risk when fresh shoots appear or blossoms are forming, roses are irresistible as soon as new buds open, and ornamentals can quietly harbour colonies that spread to everything else. They might be tiny, but given the right conditions, aphids can cause a big headache fast. By learning to spot them early, knowing which ones you’re dealing with, and leaning on gentle methods that encourage balance in the garden, you’ll keep your plants, and the good bugs happy and thriving. So, keep your eyes open, your garden humming, and your sprays to a minimum. Happy gardening 🌸🪴 I've created a handy little fact sheet here for you to download and keep close handy😁👍  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Written and edited by Tammy 11th November 2025 Pink Flowering Hawthorn (Crataegus laevigata Rosea Plena) If you’ve wandered down the main street of Naracoorte recently, you’ve no doubt noticed the stunning canopy of pink that’s stealing the show right now. The Pink Flowering Hawthorn Crataegus laevigata Rosa Plena are putting on the most amazing display, a sign that spring has truly settled in. These small trees line the footpaths like a living celebration, their branches laden with clusters of double rosy-pink blooms that pop against the fresh green foliage. They’re compact and tidy in shape typically growing around 4 to 6 metres tall and wide, making them perfect for street planting, cottage gardens, or small yards where space and structure both matter. A Tree with Character and Charm ‘Rosea plena’ has a lovely, rounded crown and a graceful form that brings softness to built-up spaces. In winter, its fine branching adds interest even without leaves, and come spring, it bursts into that unforgettable display of colour that lifts the whole street. Later in the season, glossy green leaves deepen in tone, creating a cool, shady haven for pedestrians and pollinators alike. Care and Growing Tips Despite their elegance, hawthorns are tough and low maintenance. They prefer a well-drained soil, anything from loam to light clay and thrive in full sun. Once established, they’re quite drought tolerant and can handle the cooler winters of the Limestone Coast with ease. A light prune after flowering will help maintain their shape and encourage next year’s blooms. They don’t ask for much: a bit of mulch to keep roots cool, an occasional deep soak during dry spells, and admiration from passers-by (which they get plenty of right now!) Perfect Uses 🌸 Street or avenue planting- they add instant charm and seasonal delight. 🌿 Feature trees- a single specimen in a front yard makes a cheerful statement. 🐝 Habitat for wildlife- bees adore the flowers, and the small fruits (haws) that follow are a treat for birds. 🏡 Cottage and heritage gardens- their old-world charm pairs beautifully with roses, lavender, and bulbs. As you stroll down the main street this week, take a moment to look up, the air’s sweeter, the colours richer, and it’s hard not to smile. The pink flowering hawthorns are in full glory, reminding us how beautiful our town can be when nature and community meet in bloom. Happy Gardening😘🌸  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Advanced Philodendron Squamiferum Written and edited by Tammy 26th February 2023. Updated November 2025 Meet the Philodendron Squamiferum If you’ve ever spotted an indoor plant with striking lobed leaves and curious red-fuzzy stems, you’ve likely met Philodendron Squamiferum . Native to the rainforests of Central and South America, it’s a tropical climbing beauty that brings an instant jungle vibe to any room. Unlike many glossy-leaf philodendrons, this one has a personality, those furry petioles (stems) make it a total standout. Given the right light, warmth, and support to climb, it’ll reward you with lush growth and dramatic foliage. How to Care for Your Philodendron Squamiferum 🪴 Light : Bright, indirect light is best. It will tolerate lower light but will grow slower and produce smaller leaves. Avoid harsh direct sun, which can scorch those velvety stems and delicate foliage. 💧 Water : Let the top few centimetres of soil dry between waterings. I find one 9-litre watering can of rainwater every 4–5 weeks (even less in winter) keeps mine perfectly happy. Always tip out excess water from the saucer, these guys dislike “wet feet.” 🌿 Feeding : During spring and summer, feed monthly with a quality indoor plant food or a dash of Seasol to support new leaf growth. Hold back during winter when growth slows. 🌡️ Temperature & Humidity : Warm and humid conditions mimic its native jungle home. Bathrooms, bright corners near east-facing windows, or areas with a humidifier are perfect. 📏 Growth & Support : This is a natural climber! Give it a sturdy moss pole or rustic branch to cling to. Mine’s now almost seven feet tall in a 52-litre ceramic pot, trained up a sanded tree branch, she’s a statement piece! Styling & Personality There’s something elegant about Philodendron squamiferum especially when dressed in fairy lights woven up the stems for soft evening ambience. It’s a bold yet low-maintenance plant that fits beautifully into modern or boho indoor spaces. Common Problems & Tips Drooping or crispy leaves?  You’re likely underwatering or the air’s too dry. Yellowing leaves?  Ease back on watering, they hate soggy soil. Spider mites or thrips?  Keep humidity up and wipe leaves regularly. Neem oil can be a gentle deterrent. Before You Buy- A Quick Word on Choosing the Right Plant As a self-confessed plant junkie, I know the thrill of loading the car with leafy treasures, but a little research saves a lot of heartache (and wallet pain). Every plant comes from a particular environment, and success depends on how well you can replicate it. A cactus from the desert will never love a dark bathroom, just as a tropical philodendron won’t thrive in full sun. Match your plant to your space, and you’re halfway there. 💚Tips from Tammy's Lounge Room My Philodendron Squamiferum  has been with me for almost 7 years now, she puts out 4–5 new leaves every summer and still makes me smile every morning. Proof that once you understand what a plant needs, it will absolutely return the love. Update: Mine now in 2025 at the time of updating this post she has reached the ceiling height. I have to keep cutting the leaders back as the alternative would be removing the ceiling to let her keep going up and my landlord might not appreciate that! What’s your favourite indoor plant? Tell me below, I’d love to know what’s thriving in your space. Happy gardening😘🌺 Advanced Philodendron Squamiferum lit up with fairy lights If you love my Philodendron take a quick peek at my Harefoot Fern😁 Hares foot fern-Davallia Canariensis Do you want to know my favourite thing about walking into my bathroom every morning?... Revelling in the sheer beauty and vibrance of my Hares foot fern davallia canariensis.....  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻