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Beautiful drought conscious landscaped garden example Written and edited by Tammy Johnson 30th May 2025 With climate patterns shifting and drought becoming a more common reality for so many of us, as gardeners we’re faced with the new challenge of how to keep our gardens thriving with less water. Gardening during dry times isn’t about giving up and accepting defeat, it’s about getting smart and creative. By embracing some simple alternatives, our gardens can become more resilient, sustainable, and beautiful than ever. Drought tolerant gardening concepts to embrace 1. Rethink Your Plant Choices One of the best ways to drought-proof your garden is to choose plants that are naturally adapted to dry conditions. Look for Australian native species or drought-tolerant plants like salvia, lavender, echinacea, rosemary, ornamental grasses and succulents. Plants like these not only survive but thrive with minimal water, often have lower nutritional requirements, and most attract pollinators too. Tip: Group plants with similar water needs together. This technique, known as hydrozoning, helps prevent overwatering and makes irrigation more efficient. ⸻ 2. Improve Your Soil’s Water-Holding Capacity. Healthy soil is like a sponge; it retains moisture and feeds your plants at the same time. You can improve your soil’s drought resistance by adding organic matter such as compost, worm castings, or well-rotted manure. These amendments boost microbial life, increase water retention, and help plants grow deeper, more drought-tolerant roots. Bonus: A thick layer of mulch (3–4 inches) helps to regulate soil temperature, suppress weeds, and reduce evaporation. ⸻ 3. Water Smarter, Not More Instead of watering on a fixed schedule, water deeply and less frequently. Deep watering encourages plants to grow roots further down, where the soil stays moist longer. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems to deliver water directly to the base of plants, minimising waste from evaporation or runoff. In our region Naracoorte SA and surroundings where hard water is problematic, drip irrigation and soaker hoses also eliminate the issue of hard minerals spoiling plant foliage. Pro tips: Water in the early morning to reduce loss from evaporation and regularly check and maintain your irrigation fixtures and fittings for calcium buildup that can block and prevent it working efficiently. ⸻ 4. Catch, save and utilise rainwater. Install rainwater tanks to capture water from your house and shed rooves. The volume of water that can be harvested from one good storm or rain event can potentially keep your entire garden alive for months. Low-tech hack: Dig small shallow trenches in your garden beds to help capture and retain rainwater where your plants need it most. ⸻ 5. Wicking Beds Wicking beds in recent years have become a popular alternative way to contain and grow your vegetables. They work by drawing water up from a reservoir at the bottom of the garden bed, so the soil stays moist from below. This reduces evaporation, encourages deep root growth, and means you don’t need to water anywhere near as often. Check out this link below to a short video where Sophie Thompson of the ABCs Gardening Australia demonstrates setting a wicking bed up using an IBC. It’s very clever! https://youtu.be/obNWr8MD0uU?si=L3kyMReen6Lp6-eZ ⸻ 6. Reimagine Your Lawn Traditional turf grass is one of the thirstiest parts of the average yard. Consider reducing your lawn footprint or replacing some of it with beautiful meandering sweeping paths that invite you into different areas, or with ground covers like creeping thyme, dichondra repens, or native grasses. These alternatives are not only drought-tolerant but also add texture and I interest to your landscape. ⸻ 7. Add pieces of garden art Add beautiful big rocks, boulders, hollow logs, or other pieces of garden art. A few large features like these ‘fill in’ space where you might otherwise have placed plants the need water and nutrition. They look amazing but best yet have no upkeep. Think about your garden as a whole ecosystem. Use windbreaks, shade structures, or strategic planting to create microclimates that reduce water needs. Even something as simple as planting taller, sun-loving plants on the west side of a garden bed can provide afternoon shade for more delicate species. Drought doesn’t have to mean the end of lush, thriving gardens. It’s simply an invitation to shift our habits, get creative, and work with nature instead of against it. By embracing some simple changes and adapting to ways of drought tolerant gardening, we’re not just conserving water, we’re building gardens that can weather the future, no matter how dry it gets. As always Happy Gardening 😘🪴 Some more hardy plant suggestions for you. Perennials & Shrubs Lavandula angustifolia (English Lavender) Salvia greggii or Salvia microphylla Westringia fruticosa (Coastal Rosemary) Santolina chamaecyparissus (Lavender Cotton) Echium plantagineum (Paterson’s Curse) Convolvulous Cneorum ( Silver Bush) Artemisia spp. (Wormwood) Echinacea purpurea (Coneflower) Erysimum (Wallflower) Bracteantha (Everlasting or paper daisies) Rhagodia parabolica (Salt bush "Grey Edge") Calocephalus brownii (Silver cushion bush) Scenecio cineraria (Dusty Miller or Silver Ragwort) ⸻ Grasses & Groundcovers Thymus serpyllum (Creeping Thyme) Dichondra repens (Kidney Weed) Festuca glauca (Blue Fescue) Lomandra longifia and confertifia Poa Labillardierei (Tussock Grass) Pycnosorus globosus (Billy Buttons) Myoporum parvifolium (Yareena™️) ⸻ Australian Natives Westringia fruticosa (Coastal Rosemary) Eremophila Glabra ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ Grevillea (Bronze Rambler) Callistemon (Kings Park Special) Among others. Correa Alba (White Correa) ⸻ Cacti, Euphorbia & Succulents, Cotyledon Orbiculata (pigs ears) Sedum Herbstfreude (Autumn Joy Creeping Stonecrop) Crassula ovata (Jade Plant) Agave spp. Attenuata Aloe striata (Coral Aloe) Dracaena (Dragon tree) Euphorbia Martinii (Baby Charm). Trigona (African Milk Tree) Cacti- Many varieties. You might also like How to save water in the garden💦👀 There are lots of simple measures we can take to save water in our gardens potentially saving us hundreds of dollars a year. 12 of the best Silver Grey foliage plants When it comes to searching for plants for your garden that are, hardy, drought tolerant, frost tolerant all the while looking smart and stylish in design, look for plants with silver or grey coloured foliage. Hard water-The cold, hard facts. Hands up who knows why we have such hard water here in the Limestone Coast? There's a little clue in that I'm going to share with you....  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Moss-the Winter lawn invader Written and edited by Tammy 27th July 2025 That soft, velvety green carpet, the kind everyone was proud to have running up the hallway in the '70s, might’ve looked great inside… but taking over your lawn? Not so much. Welcome moss! Another moisture-loving guest that thrives in shady, compacted spots. While it’s not dangerous, moss can slowly smother out grass if left unchecked. Luckily, the same lawn-improving habits that deter slime mould, aeration, drainage, careful watering, will help you fight moss too. How to Manage It Without Waging War on Your Lawn If your lawn’s starting to look more like a soft green carpet than a patch of turf, chances are you’ve got a moss situation on your hands. Moss is one of those quiet invaders, it doesn’t yell or cause chaos, it just gradually creeps in, especially in spots where your grass is having a hard time. The good news is you don’t need harsh chemicals or an all-out turf war to fix it. A few tweaks to your lawn care routine can shift the balance back in favour of healthy grass. What Causes Moss in Lawns? Moss thrives where grass struggles. That means: Shady areas (under trees, beside fences, etc.) Damp, poorly drained soil Compacted ground that roots can’t penetrate Low soil fertility or very acidic conditions Thin or patchy turf cover Basically, if moss is thriving, it's nature’s way of waving a little flag to let you know something's a little off. Is Moss Bad for My Lawn? Not exactly. Moss doesn’t kill grass directly, but it does  move into the bare patches where grass is struggling or has already given up. If left to do its thing, it can take over and make it harder for lawn to re-establish. Unlike fungus or slime mould, that go on their own, moss is a plant that will continue to thrive when provided with the right conditions. How to Get Rid of Moss (Kindly) If you’re keen to evict it gently but firmly, here are a few lawn-loving, eco-friendly strategies: Rake it out Use a spring tine rake or dethatching rake to physically lift the moss out. It’s satisfying in that “garden workout” kind of way! Aerate compacted areas A garden fork or lawn aerator helps roots breathe and improves drainage. Top dress with compost and sand This helps level out dips and boosts microbial life that supports healthy turf. Over sow thin patches Thicken up your grass to outcompete moss. Choose a shade-tolerant lawn seed if light is limited. Check soil pH Moss loves acidic soil. If your pH is low, (acidic) a gentle sprinkle of garden lime can help raise things up (but test first!). Let the light in! Prune back any overgrown shrubs or overhanging tree branches to let light back in to your lawn. For the “Do-Something” Types… If you feel like you have  spray something, try one of these gentler options: Vinegar & water spray : Use in dry weather and spot test first. Moss hates acidity too but so does grass in large doses. Bicarb solution : 1 tablespoon baking soda to 1 litre of water, sprayed lightly. Won’t kill the lawn but helps dry moss. Iron sulphate : A common, lawn-safe moss treatment when used as directed. Bonus: it greens up your grass too. Moss isn’t your enemy, but it is  a sign that your lawn could use a little TLC. If you focus on improving the conditions that moss loves (damp, shade, compaction), you’ll not only get on top of the moss issue but help your lawn come back better than ever. No drama, no harsh chemicals, just a little backyard balance. Keep warm, enjoy the rain. Happy Gardening 😘🪴 Other Posts You Might be Interested In How Frost Affects Plants & Tips for Preventing Frostburn When our plants are exposed to frost, this is what happens:  1. Plant Tissues Freeze:  The sub-zero temperatures cause the water within the plant cells to freeze.... Composting - the Beginners Guide! Thinking about starting a compost pile but not sure where to begin? Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or a tiny balcony, composting is totally doable and surprisingly fun. In this beginner guide I’ll break it all down step-by-step...... What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together. Adapting to Drought Tolerant Gardening: Thriving in the Dry. Gardening during dry times isn’t about giving up and accepting defeat, it’s about getting smart and creative. By embracing some simple alternatives, our gardens can become more resilient, sustainable, and beautiful than ever. Slime Mould in Your Winter Lawn? What it is and How to deal It Slime mould is one of nature’s weird little wonders, an odd-looking, harmless organism that’s often mistaken for something sinister. It’s not actually a fungus (or mould in the true sense) but a fungus-like 'stuff' that thrives in damp, organic-rich environments.  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Slime mould Written and edited by Tammy 27th July 2025 If you're anything like me, even on the coldest, wettest wintery days I still grab a moment or two here and there to wander out on the lawn for some fresh air and a reality check before grabbing another chunk of wood for the fire. But have you ever come to a grinding halt, horrified by sight of some weird, gelatinous goo that looked like it came from another planet? What Is Slime Mould? Slime mould is one of nature’s weird little wonders, an odd-looking, harmless organism that’s often mistaken for something sinister. It’s not actually a fungus (or mould in the true sense) but a fungus-like 'stuff' that thrives in damp, organic-rich environments. It doesn’t feed on your grass, just the decaying bits, like bacteria, leaf litter, and organic matter. You might spot it as jelly-like blobs, powdery smears, or even as foamy splashes that look like someone spilled a bucket of paint across your lawn. Spooky? A bit. Dangerous? Not at all. These little blobs usually pop up after rain, heavy dew, or long stints of overcast, cloudy, damp weather, especially in shady or poorly drained corners of the yard. Is Slime Mould Harmful to Lawns? The short answer? No. It might look  a little, alarming and unsightly, but slime mould won't harm your grass. At worst, a thick patch of it might momentarily block some sunlight if it blankets the grass thick enough, but once things dry out, it’ll usually disappear all on its own. So if you can live with it for a little while, do! It’s part of a living, breathing ecosystem under your feet. How to Get Rid of Slime Mould (If You’re Not a Fan) Ok I get it. It doesn't tick the box for 'aesthetics', quite likely a slip hazard for grandma on her way to the washing line, and definitely not what you'd like the curious grandies playing in or adding to their mud pies. So, if waiting for it to leave on its own isn't an option, here's a few safe and simple things you could try: Rake it lightly or brush it off  with a broom, nothing too aggressive, just enough to break it up and get the air flowing. It'll dry out much faster with a bit of encouragement. Ease up on the watering , especially if you've had decent rainfall lately (like we have!). Your soil’s likely hanging onto plenty of moisture already. If you’ve got automatic sprinklers running, it might be time to hit pause for a bit, no need to overdo it when nature’s already doing the job for you. Keep the grass mown  to reduce thatch buildup and let the air and sunlight in to ground level. Thatch acts like a sponge and creates the perfect hideout for moisture-loving organisms like slime mould. Improve air circulation and drainage , consider aerating compacted areas or using a soil wetter in hydrophobic spots to help water soak in more evenly.   Encourage beneficial soil life , adding compost or worm castings supports microbes that naturally compete with unwanted fungi and slime. Topdress low, soggy areas  with a mix of sand and compost to even out dips and improve surface drainage. Let the chooks help  A gentle scratch around (supervised of course) can disturb the mould, dry the area out, and even reduce pests while they’re at it. Let them out for a scratch around on the lawn occasionally, they’ll aerate, de-thatch and snack on bugs all in one go. For the “Spray-and-Walk-Away” Crowd If the frustration gets the better of you, here are a couple of gentle, garden-safe options that still feel  like you're doing something, without harming your lawn or your soil: Diluted vinegar spray : Mix 1 part white vinegar with 4 parts water and lightly spray the slime mould to help dry it out faster. Just go easy, vinegar in strong doses can affect surrounding grass and soil microbes if overused. Lemon juice and water mix : Mild, citrusy, and smells better than vinegar! Same idea, use it as a light mist, not a dousing. Sprinkle a little garden lime : Not to kill it, but to help raise the pH slightly and discourage future growth in really acidic, damp spots. Just a light dusting, too much lime can throw your soil balance out of whack. Bicarb spray (baking soda) : 1 tablespoon of bicarb in a litre of water can help dry and discourage some fungal-like growths. It’s gentle and safe, just don’t soak the area. Important: These remedies are more about satisfying that “doing something” itch, they’re not miracle cures. But they won’t harm your soil like harsh fungicides would either. Always spot test first and apply sparingly. Slime mould might look like something straight out of a sci-fi, but really, in all honesty it's just nature doing its thing. In fact, it’s a quirky little sign that your soil is full of organic matter and teeming with microscopic life. So, unless it’s really bothering you, take a deep breath and move on to the next check box on the 'garden to do list'. It’ll be gone before you know it and your lawn will be no worse for wear. Keep warm and enjoy this beautiful winter rains. Happy Gardening 😘🪴 Other Posts You Might be Interested In Moss In Winter Lawns That soft, velvety green carpet, the kind everyone was proud to have running up the hallway in the '70s, might’ve looked great inside… but taking over your lawn? Not so much. Welcome moss! Another moisture-loving guest that thrives in shady, compacted spots. Composting - the Beginners Guide! Thinking about starting a compost pile but not sure where to begin? Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or a tiny balcony, composting is totally doable and surprisingly fun. In this beginner guide I’ll break it all down step-by-step...... What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together.  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Written and edited by Tammy 13th Aug 2025 We're well into the last month of winter and you can definitely feel spring is in the air! There are a few really important jobs on most gardeners to do lists right now, and if you own any stone fruits this is one of them-treating for leaf curl. Leaf curl is a fungal disease (caused by Taphrina deformans ) that mainly attacks peaches and nectarines. It shows up in spring when new leaves emerge thickened, puckered, and often red or yellow, eventually becoming dry and distorted. Over the winter months the microscopic fungal spores continue to live on the tree hiding in tiny crevices in the bark and around the dormant buds. When the weather is cool and wet in late winter and into early spring, the spores become active. As the buds swell and leaves begin to emerge, the spores infect the soft new growth, starting the cycle all over again. Because leaf curl infection happens right at bud burst , your one chance to stop it is during bud swell , that stage where the buds are plump, showing a hint of colour, but before the leaves open. Once the leaves emerge, it’s too late for prevention. What to do: Spray with a copper-based fungicide  (such as copper oxychloride or copper hydroxide). Ensure thorough coverage  of all branches and buds. If the weather stays dry, follow up with a second spray about a week later  for extra protection. A couple of well-timed sprays now can save you from months of distorted, damaged leaves, and set you up for a bumper crop of beautiful fruit. 🍑 If leaf curl isn’t managed, over time it can take quite a toll on your stone fruit trees. Weakened growth:  Repeated attacks drain the tree’s energy as it tries to replace the damaged leaves. Reduced fruiting:  Fewer healthy leaves mean less photosynthesis, which means less energy for flowers and fruit, yields can drop significantly. Smaller, poorer-quality fruit:  Any fruit that does develop is often small, misshapen, or slow to ripen. Increased vulnerability:  A stressed tree is more prone to other pests, diseases, and even cold or drought damage. Progressive decline:  Severe, repeated infections over several years can lead to dieback of branches and, in extreme cases, the loss of the tree. For home gardeners, that can mean going from a basket of juicy peaches to barely enough for a snack, or eventually no crop at all. Prevention is far easier (and cheaper) than trying to nurse a badly infected tree back to health. Think of leaf curl like that uninvited guest who turns up every year right when the party’s about to start, only this one eats all your snacks and wrecks the furniture. A quick spray or two at the right time keeps the gate closed, your leaves lovely, and your peaches plentiful. Happy gardening 😘🍑  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻 Other posts you might find interesting How Frost Affects Plants & Tips for Preventing Frostburn Frosts are among the greatest adversaries for gardeners throughout the colder months. Days with clear, sunny skies often lead to subzero temperatures overnight, causing frosts to occur. Without being pro- active and having measures in place, the results can be detrimental. What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together. Beginners Guide to Creating a landscape design for your new home Creating your own landscape design  can be one of the most exciting and rewarding parts of moving into a new home. It’s your opportunity to shape the outdoor space into something that’s not only beautiful, but functional and your own. Whether you envision a lush garden, a modern patio, or a family-friendly backyard, it all starts with a solid plan. Composting - the Beginners Guide! Thinking about starting a compost pile but not sure where to begin? You’re in the right place! Composting is one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to turn kitchen scraps and garden waste into rich, nutrient-packed soil food. Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or a tiny balcony, composting is totally doable and surprisingly fun. In this beginners guide I’ll break it all down step-by-step so you can start transforming your kitchen and garden waste into garden gold.

Written and edited by Tammy 26th October 2025 Ok, hands up who's having issues with Aphids right now?? If I had a dollar for every gardener I've seen within the last few weeks pleading for help with aphids, I could almost take the rest of the year off unpaid! So, what does this tell us? Quite clearly aphids are having a ball breeding up a storm! The mild start we’ve had to spring, not a lot of heat and regular rain is just what they love. It sees these tiny sap-suckers busy setting up camp on fruit trees, roses and ornamentals right throughout our gardens. What Are Aphids Aphids are tiny little sap-sucking critters from the insect family Aphididae, and once spring kicks into gear, they seem to appear out of nowhere. Unlike other insects that lay eggs, aphids give birth to live young so a few can turn into a whole army almost overnight. They’re soft-bodied, usually green, black or brown, and only a few millimetres long. You’ll often find them clustered on new shoots, under leaves, and along young stems where they pierce the plant and drink its sap. This constant feeding can cause leaves to curl, buds to twist, and fresh growth to look distorted or stunted. If their feeding habits weren't bad enough, aphids love to leave their calling card. That shiny, sticky residue you see all over the leaves? That's their secretion, a sugary waste product called honeydew. Over time the honeydew goes mouldy (black sooty mould) and that becomes an open invite for ants to join the party. Most commonly seen species Let’s take a look at the most common aphid species you’re likely seeing in your backyard, what signs to look out for, and how to tackle infestations using gentle, Integrated Pest Management (IPM) methods that keep your garden, and its' helpful critters, in balance. Rose Aphids, Green Peach Aphids, Black Bean Aphids and Leaf Curl Plum Aphids are the 4 most problematic species in our gardens right now in spring. Tip** There is also a little fuzzy grey/ green one (Cabbage Aphid) we see commonly throughout winter making itself at home amongst the Brassicas, so keep that in mind, the means of dealing with them when you come across them will be the same. Clockwise from top left: close up images of rose aphids, black bean aphids, cabbage aphids and curl leaf plum aphids. Check through the table here below for the characteristics of these 4 aphids. Feature Rose Aphid  ( Macrosiphum rosae ) Green Peach Aphid  ( Myzus persicae ) Black Bean Aphid  ( Aphis fabae ) Leaf-Curl Plum Aphid  ( Brachycaudus helichrysi ) Main Hosts Roses and ornamental shrubs Stone fruits (peach, nectarine, plum), brassicas, ornamentals Broad beans, beetroot, many ornamentals and weeds Plums, and stone fruit Colour Light green to pinkish or reddish-brown Pale to bright green, sometimes with reddish tinge Deep brown to black, often shiny Early season brownish, later yellow-green Body Shape Long and slender Shorter, rounder, pear-shaped Rounded and chunky Small and oval; slightly flattened Size 2–3 mm 1.5–2 mm 2 mm 1.5–2 mm Damage Symptoms Twisted or distorted rose buds and new shoots Curling and puckering of young leaves; sticky honeydew Dense colonies on stems and underside of leaves; yellowing or stunting Strong leaf curling and twisting; premature fruit drop on plums Texture / Look Slightly translucent Smooth, more opaque Matte to shiny black Glossy, sometimes with slight waxy coating Other Clues Found on rose buds and new growth; visible clusters Found under leaves and new shoots of stone fruit Often attended by ants; large, obvious colonies Found early in spring; often causes leaf curl similar to peach leaf curl fungus Signs & evidence of an infestation When you’re surveying your garden here’s what to keep an eye out for: Clusters of tiny insects (often 1–3 mm) on new shoots, tender growth, underside of leaves, tips of branches. Leaves that are curling, twisted, puckered or distorted (especially on fruit trees). Buds failing to open or appearing deformed in roses or fruit trees. Sticky residue (honeydew) on the leaves or branches or on surfaces beneath the plant. This may lead to black sooty mould. Discoloured leaves (yellowing, pale patches) where sap has been removed. Presence of ants on the plant (ants often “farm” aphids for honeydew, protecting them from predators). Winged aphids appearing, a sign the colony is at high density and dispersal is occurring. Particularly on fruit trees: check new growth and behind leaves, inspect the tips of branches. Integrated Pest Management (IPM): Fancy terminology for 'there's more than one way to deal with it ' Using an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approach is all about working with  nature, not against it. Instead of reaching straight for spray, it’s about building a balanced plan that keeps pests in check, encourages the good bugs (like ladybugs🐞) to stick around and help out, and keeps your whole garden ecosystem healthy. There're 4 simple practices in IPM Cultural & preventive Biological control & beneficials Mechanical/physical control Chemical or organic treatments (when necessary) Cultural & preventive practices The best way to keep aphids under control is to stop them from getting too comfortable in the first place. Keep your plants healthy with good soil, steady feeding, and not too much nitrogen, all that lush, sappy growth is like an open buffet for them! Give your plants a bit of breathing space so air can circulate and you can keep a better watchful eye on what's going on and who your guests are. It also helps to do a quick once-over during spring, especially on new growth and rose tips, where aphids love to gather. And don’t forget the power of companion planting, nasturtiums make great decoys, while flowering herbs and annuals will draw in the helpful predators who'll happily snack on the aphids for you. Biological control & beneficials One of the best allies you can have in the garden are the good bugs, those tiny helpers that naturally keep aphid numbers down. Ladybirds, lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps all love a good aphid feast, so do what you can to make them feel at home. Grow a mix of flowering herbs and annuals so they’ve got nectar and pollen to feed on, and go easy on the sprays, broad-spectrum insecticides might knock out a few aphids, but they also wipe out your beneficials, which often makes the problem bounce back worse than before. If you notice ants hanging around, it’s usually because they’re farming the aphids for their sticky honeydew. Try using barriers or baits to keep the ants at bay so your natural predators can get on with their work. Mechanical/physical control Sometimes the simplest fixes work best. A strong jet of water from the hose is often all it takes to blast aphids off stems and leaves, especially on roses and shrubs where they like to cluster. If a few spots are really crowded, just pinch or prune out the worst of it and pop the cuttings in the bin (not the compost). For smaller outbreaks, sticky traps or reflective mulch can help confuse flying aphids before they land, and if you’ve got a potted plant that’s heavily infested, move it aside for a bit so the problem doesn’t spread to its neighbours. Little steps like these make a big difference without reaching for the spray bottle. insect mesh Chemical or organic treatments (when necessary) If you’ve tried all the gentle options and the aphids are still hanging on, it might be time to step things up a notch, carefully. Go for softer choices like insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, which are safe for roses and fruit trees and work by coating the aphids rather than leaving harsh residues. Make sure to cover the undersides of leaves and new shoots where they like to hide and always follow the label directions to the letter. Try to spray early in the morning or later in the evening when beneficial insects are less active and check back after a few days to see how things are going, a second light spray might be needed for stubborn colonies. Think of sprays as a last resort, not the first tool you grab. The goal is balance, not a bug-free garden. Once you’ve treated the problem, keep a casual eye on things over the next few weeks. Pay attention to whether the aphids are easing off, the new growth is bouncing back, and the helpful bugs, like ladybirds and hoverflies, are around. Jot down what worked (and what didn’t) so you’re ready for this time next season. Fruit trees are most at risk when fresh shoots appear or blossoms are forming, roses are irresistible as soon as new buds open, and ornamentals can quietly harbour colonies that spread to everything else. They might be tiny, but given the right conditions, aphids can cause a big headache fast. By learning to spot them early, knowing which ones you’re dealing with, and leaning on gentle methods that encourage balance in the garden, you’ll keep your plants, and the good bugs happy and thriving. So, keep your eyes open, your garden humming, and your sprays to a minimum. Happy gardening 🌸🪴 I've created a handy little fact sheet here for you to download and keep close handy😁👍  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Written and edited by Tammy 11th November 2025 Pink Flowering Hawthorn (Crataegus laevigata Rosea Plena) If you’ve wandered down the main street of Naracoorte recently, you’ve no doubt noticed the stunning canopy of pink that’s stealing the show right now. The Pink Flowering Hawthorn Crataegus laevigata Rosa Plena are putting on the most amazing display, a sign that spring has truly settled in. These small trees line the footpaths like a living celebration, their branches laden with clusters of double rosy-pink blooms that pop against the fresh green foliage. They’re compact and tidy in shape typically growing around 4 to 6 metres tall and wide, making them perfect for street planting, cottage gardens, or small yards where space and structure both matter. A Tree with Character and Charm ‘Rosea plena’ has a lovely, rounded crown and a graceful form that brings softness to built-up spaces. In winter, its fine branching adds interest even without leaves, and come spring, it bursts into that unforgettable display of colour that lifts the whole street. Later in the season, glossy green leaves deepen in tone, creating a cool, shady haven for pedestrians and pollinators alike. Care and Growing Tips Despite their elegance, hawthorns are tough and low maintenance. They prefer a well-drained soil, anything from loam to light clay and thrive in full sun. Once established, they’re quite drought tolerant and can handle the cooler winters of the Limestone Coast with ease. A light prune after flowering will help maintain their shape and encourage next year’s blooms. They don’t ask for much: a bit of mulch to keep roots cool, an occasional deep soak during dry spells, and admiration from passers-by (which they get plenty of right now!) Perfect Uses 🌸 Street or avenue planting- they add instant charm and seasonal delight. 🌿 Feature trees- a single specimen in a front yard makes a cheerful statement. 🐝 Habitat for wildlife- bees adore the flowers, and the small fruits (haws) that follow are a treat for birds. 🏡 Cottage and heritage gardens- their old-world charm pairs beautifully with roses, lavender, and bulbs. As you stroll down the main street this week, take a moment to look up, the air’s sweeter, the colours richer, and it’s hard not to smile. The pink flowering hawthorns are in full glory, reminding us how beautiful our town can be when nature and community meet in bloom. Happy Gardening😘🌸  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Advanced Philodendron Squamiferum Written and edited by Tammy 26th February 2023. Updated November 2025 Meet the Philodendron Squamiferum If you’ve ever spotted an indoor plant with striking lobed leaves and curious red-fuzzy stems, you’ve likely met Philodendron Squamiferum . Native to the rainforests of Central and South America, it’s a tropical climbing beauty that brings an instant jungle vibe to any room. Unlike many glossy-leaf philodendrons, this one has a personality, those furry petioles (stems) make it a total standout. Given the right light, warmth, and support to climb, it’ll reward you with lush growth and dramatic foliage. How to Care for Your Philodendron Squamiferum 🪴 Light : Bright, indirect light is best. It will tolerate lower light but will grow slower and produce smaller leaves. Avoid harsh direct sun, which can scorch those velvety stems and delicate foliage. 💧 Water : Let the top few centimetres of soil dry between waterings. I find one 9-litre watering can of rainwater every 4–5 weeks (even less in winter) keeps mine perfectly happy. Always tip out excess water from the saucer, these guys dislike “wet feet.” 🌿 Feeding : During spring and summer, feed monthly with a quality indoor plant food or a dash of Seasol to support new leaf growth. Hold back during winter when growth slows. 🌡️ Temperature & Humidity : Warm and humid conditions mimic its native jungle home. Bathrooms, bright corners near east-facing windows, or areas with a humidifier are perfect. 📏 Growth & Support : This is a natural climber! Give it a sturdy moss pole or rustic branch to cling to. Mine’s now almost seven feet tall in a 52-litre ceramic pot, trained up a sanded tree branch, she’s a statement piece! Styling & Personality There’s something elegant about Philodendron squamiferum especially when dressed in fairy lights woven up the stems for soft evening ambience. It’s a bold yet low-maintenance plant that fits beautifully into modern or boho indoor spaces. Common Problems & Tips Drooping or crispy leaves?  You’re likely underwatering or the air’s too dry. Yellowing leaves?  Ease back on watering, they hate soggy soil. Spider mites or thrips?  Keep humidity up and wipe leaves regularly. Neem oil can be a gentle deterrent. Before You Buy- A Quick Word on Choosing the Right Plant As a self-confessed plant junkie, I know the thrill of loading the car with leafy treasures, but a little research saves a lot of heartache (and wallet pain). Every plant comes from a particular environment, and success depends on how well you can replicate it. A cactus from the desert will never love a dark bathroom, just as a tropical philodendron won’t thrive in full sun. Match your plant to your space, and you’re halfway there. 💚Tips from Tammy's Lounge Room My Philodendron Squamiferum  has been with me for almost 7 years now, she puts out 4–5 new leaves every summer and still makes me smile every morning. Proof that once you understand what a plant needs, it will absolutely return the love. Update: Mine now in 2025 at the time of updating this post she has reached the ceiling height. I have to keep cutting the leaders back as the alternative would be removing the ceiling to let her keep going up and my landlord might not appreciate that! What’s your favourite indoor plant? Tell me below, I’d love to know what’s thriving in your space. Happy gardening😘🌺 Advanced Philodendron Squamiferum lit up with fairy lights If you love my Philodendron take a quick peek at my Harefoot Fern😁 Hares foot fern-Davallia Canariensis Do you want to know my favourite thing about walking into my bathroom every morning?... Revelling in the sheer beauty and vibrance of my Hares foot fern davallia canariensis.....  Want a little more support in your garden? If you're enjoying my blogs, hints n tips here, and ever find yourself wishing you had someone to ask, “Is this normal?”  or “What should I be doing right now?” , that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find my in-depth, practical gardening guides , a weekly “What to do in the garden this week” update  (so you’re never guessing what’s timely), and the option to chat one-on-one with me  about plant pests, diseases, or garden mysteries as they pop up. It’s a bit like having me right there in your own backyard keeping an eye on things, helping you problem-solve, and cheering you on as your garden grows 🌿 If that sounds helpful, you’re always welcome to come and join us. A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

Written and edited by Tammy 18th Dec 2025 If you’ve ever watered your favourite indoor plant and been greeted by a cloud of tiny flying insects… welcome to the world of fungus gnats. They’re super annoying, but totally fixable. Fungus gnats are one of the most common indoor plant pests, especially in warm, humid homes or potting mixes that stay damp for too long. Let’s walk through exactly what they are, why they show up, and how to get rid of fungus gnats naturally, without harsh chemicals. ⸻ What Are Fungus Gnats? Fungus gnats are tiny black flies (about the size of a fruit fly) that buzz around potting mix and settle on nearby surfaces. The adults are mostly just a nuisance, but it’s the larvae in the soil that can cause the real trouble. Fungus gnat larvae can: • Eat organic matter in potting mix • Damage young roots • Cause stunted, droopy growth • Increase plant stress and susceptibility to disease They thrive in consistently damp soil, which is why indoor plant lovers often meet them at least once. ⸻ Why Do Fungus Gnats Turn Up? Fungus gnats appear when the conditions are perfect for them, and unfortunately, indoor plant pots often provide exactly that, especially as we head into the warmer months and start ramping up the watering routine. Common causes: • Overwatering • Poor drainage • Potting mix high in compost or unbroken-down organic matter • Re-using old or contaminated soil • Bringing home new plants with hidden larvae The trick to winning the battle is fixing both the adults AND the larvae. ⸻ How to Get Rid of Fungus Gnats 1. Let the Soil Dry Out (Your Most Powerful Tool) Fungus gnats hate dry soil. Their eggs and larvae need moisture to survive. Let the top 2–5 cm of soil dry out between waterings. Most indoor plants will handle this just fine, and you’ll interrupt the gnat life cycle. ⸻ 2. Bottom Water Instead of Top Watering Bottom watering keeps the surface drier, making it less appealing to adult gnats. Fill a bowl or sink, let the pot soak for 10–20 minutes, and allow it to drain well. ⸻ 3. Use Sticky Traps for Adult Fungus Gnats Bright yellow sticky traps are one of the quickest ways to stop adult fungus gnats reproducing. Place traps: • On the soil surface • Hanging just above your plant • Near windows or lights They’ll catch dozens within days! ⸻ 4. Add a Layer of Sand or Fine Gravel Creating a dry, gritty top layer makes it impossible for adult gnats to lay eggs. Great options: • Horticultural sand • Decorative pebbles • Fine aquarium gravel ⸻ 5. Home Remedies for Fungus Gnats (That Actually Work) Cinnamon Powder (Natural Antifungal) Sprinkle cinnamon on top of the soil and gently swirl it in. Cinnamon helps reduce the fungus the larvae feed on, slowing their lifecycle. It won’t fix a huge infestation on its own, but as part of a wholistic action plan, it’s works well. ⸻ 6. Neem Oil Soil Treatment Neem oil disrupts the larvae and pupae in the soil. Mix according to your bottle’s directions and apply as a soil soak. Repeat weekly for 2–3 weeks until numbers drop. ⸻ 7. Hydrogen Peroxide Soil Flush (Safe When Diluted) This sounds scarier than it is! Use 3% hydrogen peroxide mixed at 1 part peroxide : 4 parts water Pour onto the soil as you would a normal watering. It kills larvae on contact and breaks down into oxygen + water. ⸻ When Should You Repot? Sometimes the infestation is so deep that the fastest solution is to repot. Repot your plant if: • You see masses of larvae near the drainage holes • The soil smells sour • The mix is old, dense or stays wet for days Use a fresh, well-draining indoor potting mix and clean your pot before reusing. ✨ If They Keep Coming Back… If fungus gnats seem to return no matter what you try, it’s usually a sign that something in the watering habits, soil balance, or plant environment needs fine-tuning. That’s where understanding the why  makes all the difference. Fungus gnats are one of those pests every indoor gardener deals with at least once but they’re also one of the easiest to get under control when we understand the lifecycle properly and adjust the conditions that allow them to thrive. If you’re tired of guessing what’s wrong with your plants or reacting to problems as they pop up, that’s exactly why I created The Backyard . Inside, you’ll find: • In-depth plant pest and disease guides • Step-by-step troubleshooting systems • Weekly “what to do in the garden” updates • And the option to chat with me one-on-one for diagnosis help It’s like having me right there in your yard (minus the muddy boots 😉). 👉 Come join me in The Backyard and garden with confidence. Happy Gardening 🪴💚 A peek at what you’ll find inside....The Backyard My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻 Other Posts You Might Like Philodendron Squamiferum If you’ve ever spotted an indoor plant with striking lobed leaves and curious red-fuzzy stems, you’ve likely met Philodendron Squamiferum . It’s a tropical climbing beauty that brings an instant jungle vibe to any room. Given the right light, warmth, and support to climb, it’ll reward you with lush growth and dramatic foliage. Rabbits foot fern-Davallia Canariensis Do you want to know my favourite thing about walking into my bathroom every morning?... Standing there for a moment to admire the sheer beauty of my Rabbits foot fern. Help! My plant is sick! Diagnosing what’s wrong with a sick or dying plant can be tricky stuff, they can exhibit a whole host of symptoms that may indicate different underlying issues.

Written and edited by Tammy 1st February 2026 One of the very first plant issues I learnt to identify and help customers with, back in my early days, was sooty mould. I remember feeling genuinely excited (and pretty proud of myself) when an unlucky customer would come in holding a freezer bag sample and ask, “What is that black soot on my plants?” I used to pounce on the opportunity to practise my newly acquired skills. “Sure, I can help you with that…” and away I’d go. Fast forward to now, and humbly, my repertoire has grown. Sooty mould can look a little alarming, especially when a plant resembles the sole survivor of Ash Wednesday, but once you understand that it’s the consequence, not the cause, you’ll start to see it differently. The good news is, it’s very fixable once you understand what’s really going on. Let’s walk through exactly what sooty mould is, why it appears, and how to clean it up properly. ⸻ What Is That Black Soot on My Plants? Sooty mould is a black fungal growth that we're familiar with seeing on the surface of leaves and stems; but here's the thing....it doesn't actually infect the plant tissue itself. It’s there as a consequence of something else, a sugary, sticky substance called honeydew . Think of it like this: If you spill something sugary on your kitchen bench and forget to wipe it up, it eventually goes mouldy. The mould isn't there because of the kitchen bench, it's there because of the sticky mess that was left there on it. The mould is simply taking advantage of a free banquet. ⸻ So, Who's the Culprit? Sooty mould appears when honeydew-producing insects are feeding on your plant. The common culprits are: Aphids Scale Mealybugs Other sap-sucking insects Even small insect populations can produce enough sugary residue for sooty mould to develop. You'll likely notice: Sticky leaves Ant activity (ants LOVE sugar and often “farm” these insects) Black residue on leaves and stems. As bad as it looks, the mould isn’t really the problem; it’s a symptom of a bigger problem-the insects. ⸻ Is Sooty Mould Harmful? Most of the time, sooty mould is cosmetic, but that doesn’t mean it should be ignored. Heavy build-up can: Block sunlight from reaching the leaf Reduce photosynthesis Slow plant growth Add stress over time Left unmanaged, the extra stress can weaken a plant over time, especially if the insect activity continues. ⸻ How to Clean Up Sooty Mould The clean-up approach really depends on how heavy the build-up is and the size of the plant too. There’s a big difference between wiping down a pot plant and dealing with a six-foot shrub or lemon tree. (Let’s be realistic… no one’s wiping every leaf on that!) Light to Moderate Coating Hose leaves with plain water Gently wipe with a soft cloth or sponge Use mild soapy water if needed Often, this is enough to improve airflow and light absorption and help the plant bounce back. ⸻ Heavy or Long-Term Build-Up Wipe leaves gently (avoid scrubbing) Prune badly affected leaves or branches Accept that some leaves just won't return to their pristine condition Cleaning the mould off helps the plant breathe and photosynthesise again, but unless the insects are dealt with, the mould will return. For larger shrubs or trees, a prune can help in more ways than one. Removing the worst-affected growth improves airflow and light and encourages a fresh flush of healthy new growth, allowing the messiest parts to drop off naturally. ⸻ The Long-Term Fix: Treat the Cause, Not the Mould This is where calm, sensible Integrated Pest Management (IPM )  comes in. Instead of reaching straight for harsh sprays: Monitor plants regularly Manage ants (they protect honeydew-producing insects) Encourage beneficial insects Use targeted natural treatments where necessary to treat the guilty culprits! Sooty mould is a classic example of how our gardens often shows us the symptom  first, not the cause. Once you know how to read those clues, everything gets a lot less stressful. The Takeaway Sooty mould looks dramatic, but it’s really just our plant or garden trying to show us something else is going on. Once we understand that, the solution becomes much clearer, clean up what we can, support the plant, and manage the insects that started the mess in the first place. Happy Gardening 😘🪴 If you’re finding plant problems like this keep popping up and you’re ready for a simple, easier way to work through them without second-guessing yourself, that’s exactly why I created The Gardener’s Handy Doctor’s Bag. It’s a practical, 26 page step-by-step guide available to members inside The Backyard, designed to help you slow down, observe, and diagnose what’s really going on before reaching for quick fixes.   A peek at what you’ll find inside.... My 26 page guide to becoming a 'Plant Doctor'. Learn to identify and deal with all the common pests, diseases and disorders. A 20 page detailed look at what hydrophobic soil is, how to fix it and prevent it ever happening again. A lovely little 16 page guide to water saving practices and plant recommendations for a drying climate. Come join me in The Backyard today💚👉🏻

The scoop on Millipedes So, you hop up in the night and tootle off to the bathroom half-asleep, minding your own business only to hear that crunch , feel the wet mess, and finally there's the realisation with the unmistakable smell (seriously, what is  with that?). You flick on the light and… low and behold, you’ve squished a millipede between your toes. They don’t exactly suck out of the carpet well, and somehow, they just “happen” to fall from the ceiling or appear beside you on the bench when you least expect it! Come on now what gives? These little critters love moist, dark spots anywhere with leaf litter, mulch, potted plants, or logs  that stay cool and damp. They’re not out to terrorise you, though. Most of the time they’re quietly recycling old plant matter, helping to break it down into rich soil . But when things get a bit too  comfy (think very damp + lots of cover), they’ll wander closer to home sometimes literally into  your home. Because millipedes dry out easily , dryness is their enemy and that’s the key to gentle, eco-friendly control. 🪴 Eco-Friendly Control Methods (Using Tammy’s favourite IPM approach: prevention → observation → action) 1️⃣ Reduce Their Favourite Habitat Thin out thick mulch layers , especially near house foundations or garden edges that stay damp. Clear up leaf litter, logs, stones, and pot bases  where they hide out. Fix drainage  issues so there are no soggy spots near your walls or garden beds. Once the environment’s less humid, they’ll move on naturally. 2️⃣ Barrier & Exclusion Tricks Seal gaps and cracks  around doors, windows, vents, and skirting boards. Use smooth barriers  (vinyl wrap or metal flashing) along walls they can’t climb slick surfaces. Indoors, vacuum them up  rather than squashing they release a defensive fluid that stinks  and can even potentially stain fabrics. 3️⃣ Safe Physical Controls Night patrols  Millipedes are most active in the dark. Inside your house check floors, near doorways, and even beds daily to try to keep down numbers. DIY traps:  shallow dishes with fruit scraps work beautifully. Sprinkle food-grade Diatomaceous Earth  around entry points it gently dries them out without harsh chemicals. (Diatomaceous Earth is simply organic fossil shell flour, a more natural eco-friendly effective alternative product. You'll find it available in most leading chain stores, and pet supply stockists. For large yards and gardens look for a 1-3kg volume). 4️⃣ Gentle Natural Deterrents Essential oils  (peppermint or tea tree) can help repel them. Dab a few drops along skirting boards or door frames. Dim your outdoor lights  at night, millipedes often follow the glow straight to your doorstep! At the end of the day, it’s all about making things a little less cosy  for these moisture-loving wanderers. Keep your spaces dry, tidy up the hidey-holes, and seal off those sneaky little entry points. A few smart barriers or homemade traps will usually do the trick long before you ever need to think about sprays. Only reach for chemicals if things truly get out of hand otherwise, the gentle, nature-friendly route keeps your garden balanced, your home peaceful, and your toes millipede-free! Happy Gardening 😘💚  Other Blogs you might find interesting Identifying & Controlling Aphids on Fruit Trees, Roses & Ornamentals. The mild start we’ve had to spring, not a lot of heat and regular rain is just what they love. It sees these tiny sap-suckers busy setting up camp on fruit trees, roses and ornamentals right throughout our gardens. Powdery Mildew ☘️ With Spring now in full swing and summer vegetable seedlings going into the ground left right and centre, powdery mildew becomes a hot topic. If you're vigilant and know what to look out for, and perhaps even what precautions to have in place, you'll be able to act quickly if it does show up for the party! What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together. Leaf Curl on Stone Fruit Leaf curl is a fungal disease (caused by Taphrina deformans ) that mainly attacks peaches and nectarines. It shows up in spring when new leaves emerge thickened, puckered, and often red or yellow, eventually becoming dry and distorted. Over the winter months the microscopic fungal spores continue to live on the tree hiding in tiny crevices in the bark and around the dormant buds.

Anthuriums-The festive-season favourite that can last all year Written and edited by Tammy 7th December 2025 You wouldn't be a 'plantie' if you didn't stop to admire those stunning, glossy, heart-shaped blooms of the Anthuriums, we see everywhere at Christmas time. They're one of the most striking indoor plants you can bring into your home. With their bright red “flowers” (really just fancy coloured leaves!) and cheerful yellow centre spike, they add instant warmth and tropical flair to any space. Here’s the good news: with the right care, your festive Anthurium won’t just survive the holidays… it can thrive beautifully all year round. Let’s unpack where these stunners come from, what they need, and how we can keep them glowing long after the Christmas decorations are packed away. 🌿 What is an Anthurium? Anthuriums belong to the Araceae  family, the same family as peace lilies and philodendrons. They’re native to the warm, humid rainforests of Central and South America , where they grow as epiphytes , meaning they often cling to trees rather than rooting deeply in soil. (This tells us a lot about their care: ✔ airy, loose soil✔ warm temperatures✔ bright but filtered light✔ consistent moisture✔ plenty of humidity When we mimic these rainforest conditions, Anthuriums reward us with glossy foliage and long-lasting colour.) 🎄 Why We See Anthuriums at Christmas Their bold red and deep green colouring makes them a natural fit for the festive season-makes sense! Nurseries and retailers bring them into stores in November–December because: they’re hardy as indoor plants they hold their colour for months they pair beautifully with Christmas décor they’re popular as gifts But Anthuriums aren’t “seasonal plants”, they’re perennials, meaning you can keep them thriving well into the new year and beyond. 🌞 Light Requirements Anthuriums love bright, indirect light , think rainforest floor with dappled sunlight. ✔ Best Spots Near a bright window with filtered light East-facing windows A metre or so back from north-facing windows (Aus/Southern Hemisphere) ✘ Avoid Direct HOT sun → scorches leaves and fades the spathes (technical name for the flower) Dark rooms → leads to fewer flowers, slow growth, dull leaves If the plant stops producing blooms, light is usually the first thing to fix. 💦 Watering & Moisture Consistency is key for Anthuriums. What they like: Moist but never soggy soil Water when the top 2–3 cm feels dry Lukewarm water (cold water can shock them) Signs you're overwatering: yellow leaves mushy stems brown leaf edges Signs of underwatering: wilting crispy leaf tips dull, droopy foliage 👉 Tip:  Anthuriums LOVE humidity. Mist the leaves, place the pot on a pebble tray, or keep them near other plants to create a micro-climate. 🌱 Best Soil Mix for Anthuriums Think loose, chunky, airy . Anthuriums dislike heavy potting mixes. Ideal Mix 1 part premium indoor potting mix 1 part orchid bark 1 part perlite or pumice This mimics the rainforest environment where their roots cling to bark and breathe freely. 🌡 Temperature & Humidity Anthuriums thrive between 18–28°C , making them perfect indoor plants. ✔ Keep them away from: cold drafts air conditioners heaters blowing hot, dry air sudden temperature drops If your home gets dry in summer or winter, add humidity. Even a simple water-filled saucer nearby can help. 🌸 How to Encourage More Blooms If your Anthurium stops flowering, try adjusting: ✔ Light They bloom best with strong, indirect light. ✔ Feeding Use a liquid fertiliser high in potassium  every 4–6 weeks during the warmer months. ✔ Pot Size They prefer being slightly pot-bound . Too large a pot = more leaves, fewer flowers. ✔ Temperature Cooler rooms = fewer blooms. 🪴 Repotting Your Anthurium Repot every 1–2 years or when: roots appear on the soil surface the pot feels tight water runs straight through growth slows Choose a pot one size up  only and refresh the potting mix to keep it airy. 🐛 Pests & Problems Common pests: fungus gnats scale mealybugs aphids Treatment: wipe leaves with a damp cloth apply neem oil or eco-oil improve air circulation decrease watering if gnats appear (sprinkle the top of the soil with cinnamon) 🎁A Happy Anthurium All Year Round Anthuriums are more than just Christmas décor, they’re hardy, elegant indoor plants that, with a little understanding, will thrive in your home for years. Treat them like the tropical treasures they are, and they’ll reward you with colour and glossy foliage season after season.

Hares foot fern Davallia canariensis Written and edited by Tammy 8th March 2025. Do you want to know my favourite thing about walking into my bathroom every morning?... Standing there for a moment to admire the sheer beauty of my Rabbits foot fern davallia canariensis. I still don't entirely understand my infatuation with them, I have the gravest phobia of spiders and the furry Rhizomes that crawl out of the centre of the plant closely resemble that of a huntsman spider.... Nevertheless, they're one of my favourite indoor plants that I seem to be successful in growing. Rhizomes clinging to the outside of the basket Caring for a Rabbits foot fern Davallia canariensis Rabbits foot fern davallia canariensis is native to the Canary Islands hence the name. They have the daintiest fine dark green fronds, that grow on the furry little crawling appendages called rhizomes. Size They can potentially grow up to 50cm in height and spread to cover an area of 100cm. Mine, in the main picture at the top of the page progressed into a 20cm pot about 6 months ago once it began infringing on our personal space brushing our teeth each day, sitting where it was beside the sink. Amazing how quick they grow when they're happy. Now hanging from the ceiling in the bathroom, it's quickly reached a size of almost 80cm from its top to the lowest point of the fronds below. Habitat In their natural habitat these ferns are epiphytic meaning, they grow on other host plants, or in rock crevasses with their rhizomes deriving moisture and nutrients from the air, so it's important not to trim back or disturb them. Light preferences They like a bright filtered light (not direct) and need to be kept moist at all times but not sodden. Misting the fronds to create humidity is favourable or if you've got room in your bathroom that gets steamy, better still. Mine is in the bathroom on the Northern side of the house where it's always nice and bright and it's thriving in there. Fertiliser/ what to feed them As with all my indoor plants, once or twice throughout the warmer months when they're actively growing, I give them a dose of soluble fertiliser, Seasol Powerfeed, and Seasol Health Treatment. I also throw on a spoonful of Munash Organics Indoor plant soil food. Its key ingredient is natural rock minerals sourced from volcanic rock in Victoria and made right there in Ballarat Victoria. My plants seem to like it and respond to it really well, so I keep using it. As always, please make sure you use the products as per the manufacturer's instructions on the labels. I wonder how many others are scared of spiders yet love these plants like me🪴😍 Happy Gardening! While you're here, check out my Philodendron Squamiferum! She's amazing 😍 Philodendron Squamiferum If you’ve ever spotted an indoor plant with striking lobed leaves and curious red-fuzzy stems, you’ve likely met Philodendron Squamiferum . Native to the rainforests of Central and South America, it’s a tropical climbing beauty that brings an instant jungle vibe to any room. Unlike many glossy-leaf philodendrons, this one has a personality, those furry petioles (stems) make it a total standout. Given the right light, warmth, and support to climb, it’ll reward you with lush growth and dramatic foliage.