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Written and edited by Tammy 3rd Sept 2025 Planting Partners in Crime – The Secrets of Companion Planting Remember the days when celebrity couples got those mash-up names? Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie became Brangelina, Ben Affleck and Jennifer Lopez were Bennifer… Well, if we did the same thing in the plant world, the star couple would hands down be tomatoes and basil. What would we call them? Tomasil? Basato? 😂 Whatever the name, they’re a match made in 'garden heaven' and on the dinner plate too. That’s the magic of companion planting: some plants just click. They look after each other, boost each other’s growth, and keep pests at bay. Think of it as matchmaking for your veggie patch, and the results are delicious. ⸻ 🍅 Basil & Tomatoes – The A-List Couple The power couple. Basil brings the pest-repelling fragrance, tomatoes bring the juicy harvest, and together they make foodies swoon. Gardeners also swear basil improves tomato flavour (and I’d agree!). Pop basil plants around the base of your tomatoes and you’ll have flavour-packed salads, sauces, and pest protection all season. A true red-carpet duo: Tomasil forever. 🌿🍅 ⸻ 🥕 Carrots & Onions – Odd Couple, Perfect Match Carrots and onions might not look like they belong together, but trust me, they’re great mates. Onions fend off carrot flies, while carrots help loosen the soil around onion roots. A little bit quirky, but it works. Like the garden’s version of an unlikely rom-com pairing. ⸻ 🌽 Beans, Corn & Pumpkins – The Original “Squad Goals” Known as the Three Sisters, this Indigenous growing method is a lesson in teamwork: • Corn stands tall as the trellis. • Beans climb up and feed the soil with nitrogen. • Pumpkins sprawl across the ground, shading weeds and locking in moisture. It’s the plant equivalent of a band where everyone plays their part perfectly. No divas, just harmony. ⸻ 🥬 Lettuce & Tall Crops – The Cool Kids Lettuce hates the summer scorch, so give it a little shade by planting it between corn, sunflowers, or even tomatoes. They throw just enough shade to keep lettuce crisp and happy. Think of it as the little sibling tagging along under the wing of the big kids. ⸻ 🌸 Flowers – The Party Guests Who Steal the Show Add flowers among your veggies and you’ll never look back. • Marigolds are the bouncers, keeping pests and nematodes out. • Nasturtiums act as decoys, luring aphids away. • Calendula brings in the pollinators and adds a pop of cheer. They might not be the “main crop,” but they sure know how to light up the garden party. ⸻ 🚫 Garden Frenemies Not all plants are meant to be together (just like certain Hollywood splits 🙈). • Beans + onions or garlic = bad vibes, they stunt each other. • Tomatoes + potatoes = drama, with diseases that spread easily between them. Sometimes it’s best to keep the exes apart! ⸻ 🌿 Quick Companion Planting Tips • Mix herbs throughout the patch, they confuse pests and attract the “good guys.” • Layer tall, medium, and low growers to make the most of your space. • Keep notes! Every garden has its own personality, and your best pairings will reveal themselves over time. ⸻ Companion planting isn’t just a fad, it’s clever, sustainable gardening that works with nature’s rhythm. Start with the celebrity couple of the veggie patch (tomatoes and basil, forever Tomasil 💚), then branch out into other partnerships. Before long, your garden will be a thriving, balanced community where every plant has a role. Because honestly, who wouldn’t want a veggie patch full of happy plant couples? Enjoy your gardens and the first days of spring! Happy gardening😘🌱🍅

Sweet Basil Written and edited by Tammy 30th August 2025 If there’s one herb that earns its keep and steals the show in summer, it’s sweet basil. Lush, fragrant, and downright bossy in the veggie patch. And let’s be honest, it was made to hang out with tomatoes. From the garden bed to the dinner plate, they’re the ultimate tag-team. But even stars need a bit of pampering, basil can be a bit of a diva if it doesn’t get the conditions it loves. So, let’s go over some of the tips and tricks for growing sweet basil successfully, and have you blissfully picking fresh leaves all summer long! How To Grow Sweet Basil🌱 Location, Location Basil is a sun-lover. It needs at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight each day to really thrive. Choose a warm, sheltered spot in your veggie patch, (perhaps close to your tomatoes) or like me, plant some up closer to the back door for quick picking in containers. If you’re in a cooler climate, growing basil in pots you can move into a warm, protected position is a great option. Soil Secrets Basil loves a rich, free-draining soil. Think loose, crumbly, and full of organic matter. Work in a bag full of chockablok compost or well-rotted manure before planting. A handful of pelletised organic fertiliser (like Rapid Raiser or Blood & Bone) will give it a great start. Keep soil consistently moist but never soggy, basil hates “wet feet.” 💦Watering Wisely Water deeply a couple of times a week rather than shallow daily sprinkles. Basil likes to stay evenly moist, but wet leaves can invite fungal disease. Always water at the base of the plant, not over the top. 🪲Pests Basil can be a bit of a bug magnet at times, and whitefly seem to think it’s their personal buffet. If you notice clouds of the little critters lifting off when you brush past, that'll be white fly. Don't fret, cover it with some insect mesh or even some fine netting to keep them off the leaves, and for a natural spray, try mixing up a garlic or chilli solution in the kitchen. A quick spritz on the undersides of the leaves is often enough to send whitefly packing without leaving anything nasty behind. Another trick? Encourage ladybirds and lacewings into the garden, the beneficial bugs will happily do the clean-up job for you. Pinch, Don’t Just Pick This is the real secret to bushy basil. From the time your basil has 4–6 sets of leaves, pinch out the top growing tips regularly. This encourages side shoots and prevents it from growing tall and leggy going straight to flower. Harvest it often, the more you pick, the more it grows! 🌸Stop the Flowers As pretty as the little white flowers look, once basil blooms, the leaves turn bitter. Pinch off flower buds as soon as you spot them. If you want to save some seeds, let one or two plants bloom at the very end of the season. ✨Companion Planting Magic Basil isn’t just for the kitchen; it’s a clever little helper in the veggie patch too. Pop a clump beside your tomatoes and it’ll work as a living decoy, drawing some of the attention away from your prized crop. Then keep a separate patch (or pot) for picking, so you’ve always got fresh handfuls ready for pesto and salads. Practical and  pretty, basil really earns its spot in the garden. 🌿 Quick Tips for Success Basil thrives in warm weather, so don’t plant it out until frosts are past. Grow a few small batches rather than one big planting. This way, if one plant bolts to seed, you’ll have backups ready. Mulch around plants to keep soil moisture even and roots cool. For endless basil, try striking a few cuttings in water, they’ll root easily and give you new plants for free. 💚Tams Tip: I keep my fresh herbs handy in pots right by the back door. As the summer heat really ramps up, I pop saucers beneath the pots, topped up with water so they maintain moisture and utilise what they need as they need it. My basil always booms this way. From Garden to Plate There’s nothing like tearing fresh basil leaves straight into a salad, tossing them into pasta, or layering them with fresh tomatoes and mozzarella on a homemade pizza or bruschetta. If you’ve got a bumper harvest, blitz up a batch of pesto and freeze in small portions, to keep you going throughout the off season. ✨ With these simple tips, you’ll have an abundance of basil all summer long. Plant it, nurture it, and enjoy the endless taste of summer, because life really is better with basil and tomatoes on the plate!

Lebanese Zucchini Written and edited by Tammy 28th August 2025 Who else has picked a zucchini for dinner, then two nights later found its sibling out in the veggie patch the size of a submarine! No other vegetable grows as fast as a zucchini, honestly you can't turn your back for a minute! With the right tips up your sleeve, I promise you'll find zucchinis to be one of the easiest (and most rewarding) crops in your backyard. The Best Zucchini Varieties to Grow When it comes to choosing which variety of zucchini to grow, stick with reliable winners to guarantee a bumper crop. Choose varieties known not just for yield but for toughness too. Black Jack, is a classic that shrugs off most common garden stresses, Lebanese, smaller, growing with their tender pale fruit, boast strong disease resistance and popularity in smaller gardens, and Golden Zucchini, are a hardy performer that bounces back quickly from powdery mildew. Feeding & Nurturing Your Zucchinis Soil Prep: Improve your soil with some compost like Chockablok prior to planting, then water the seedlings in with Seasol Health treatment or Seamungus to ease transplant shock and give them a boost to get going. Once they're settled in mulch around them with a generous layer of Who Flung Dung . Early Growth: Feed them with Rapid Raiser and a handful of Blood & Bone every 3–4 weeks. Blood and Bone gives that nice little boost of added Nitrogen that powers lush leaves early. Flowering & Fruiting: Ease off the nitrogen but continue with the Rapid Raiser or switch to a phosphorus & potassium-rich fertiliser tailored to fruit and vegetables. Keep soil moist, mulch generously, and water regularly. Flowers & Pollination Zucchinis produce male flowers first, then females (the ones with baby zucchinis). If you begin noticing small, shrivelled zucchinis, is a sign of a poor pollination success rate. The best way around this is to hand pollinate them yourself. Pick a male flower, peel back petals, dust the pollen from the male flower into the female using a paintbrush. Best time to do this is in the morning while the blooms are fresh. Common Zucchini Problems As with anything you grow in the garden, zucchinis can face their fair share of challenges. Sudden extremes of heat or cold can easily stress the plants, while an overload of nitrogen often results in an explosion of leafy growth but little to no fruit. Poor pollination is another common culprit behind empty flowers or small, misshapen zucchinis. And of course, no gardener is a stranger to powdery mildew, the classic enemy that often strikes just as plants are hitting their stride. Beating Powdery Mildew Give plants space Water soil, not leaves Mulch well DIY Spray: 1 tsp bicarb soda + 1L water + a few drops of liquid soap Rotate crops yearly Tam’s Tip 🌱 Don’t turn your back on zucchinis! Pick daily once fruiting starts, or you’ll end up with giants. Smaller zucchinis are sweeter, more tender, and perfect for the pan. Harvest As with most things in the garden, zucchinis are no different, smaller really is sweeter. Pick them young, around 15–20 cm, for the best flavour on your plate. Don’t be shy about harvesting often either; the more you pick, the more they will keep on giving. If you miss a few and end up with a monster zucchini (we’ve all been there!), just grate it into muffins, slice it for the freezer, or sneak it into a hearty soup. And just remember, two plants are more than enough to keep your kitchen well stocked all summer long, so unless you’re feeding a small army, you really don’t need a whole row! So, there you have it, zucchinis care 101 made simple. With steady feeding, water, and a little pollination help, you’ll be dishing up fritters, pasta, and slices all season long. Happy gardening😘🌱

Fresh Harvested Pumpkins Written and edited by Tammy 23rd Aug 2025 Ok, let’s be honest…who hasn’t just quietly got a tad excited dreaming of a freebie pumpkin after sneaking a casual peek over the fence at the neighbour’s pumpkin patch while doing the evening watering? The pumpkin vine envy is real! 😩 Well now it’s your turn, grab your gardening gloves and let’s dig in for the best varieties to grow, tips on pollination, disease prevention and more! Growing Pumpkins- Varieties Worthy of a Spot in Your Patch Now, before you go throwing in every pumpkin seed you can get your hands on (we’ve all been tempted), stick to a few tried-and-true winners: Butternut – Sweet, nutty, and hands-down one of the easiest to grow. Roast it, soup it, mash it, it’s the all-rounder of the pumpkin world. Queensland Blue – A true Aussie legend. Blue-grey skin on the outside, rich golden goodness inside, and it keeps for ages. Jarrahdale – Kind of like Queensland Blue’s cousin, with dense, sweet flesh and that gorgeous heritage look. Kent (Jap) – Speckled skin, golden flesh, and flavour that’ll win anyone over. Great for roasting, baking, soups and salads, the Kent never disappoints. Hot tip: Pumpkins are space hogs (seriously, they’ll take over if you let them), so maybe just pick one or two favourites unless you fancy turning your whole backyard into a pumpkin jungle. 🌿 Feeding and nurturing your pumpkins Pre-sowing soil prep Start your pumpkin patch off right by feeding the soil first. Work in a quality compost such as Chockablok   to boost nutrition and improve texture, then top dress with Who Flung Dung   about a week before sowing or planting out. This sets the stage beautifully for your hungry little vines. When planting day comes, give them a good watering with Seamungus  or Seasol Health Treatment. This not only reduces transplant shock but also gives their immune systems a kickstart and encourages strong, active root growth from the get-go. Early Growth (Pre-Flowering Phase) Once your pumpkin seedlings are up and running, feed them with Rapid Raiser every 4–6 weeks , and add a light sprinkling of blood and bone . At this stage, vines are all about building muscle, lush leaves and strong roots, so that extra nitrogen from the blood and bone gives them the kick they need. As the plants shift gears and start to form flowers, their priorities change too. Nitrogen takes a back seat, and their demand for phosphorus  ramps up, ready to support flowering and fruit set. That’s when Rapid Raiser really shines. Flowering through to Fruit Development (Fruiting Stage) From flowering onwards, keep up with Rapid Raiser  applications to meet your pumpkins’ growing demand for phosphorus and potassium , this gives them everything they need to set flowers and swell those fruits. As summer heat kicks into full gear, water becomes just as important as fertiliser. Keep the moisture up, and don’t be shy about giving your vines a refresher top-dressing of Who Flung Dung . Not only does it feed gently, but it also acts like a cool blanket, insulating the soil and helping it hold onto every drop of water. Tammy’s Tip 🌱 Pumpkins are tough old things. As long as you give them room, water, mulch, and a steady feed of organic goodness , they’ll usually repay you in spades. Fancy fertilisers make it easier and give better results, but don’t let not having the exact product stop you, pumpkins will happily grow on whatever TLC you can spare. Pumpkin flowers, too much of one and not enough of the other 🌸 Female Pumpkin Flower Pumpkins are self-pollinating, they produce two kinds of flowers, male and female. The males are usually the first to appear, the tall skinny stems, pretty obvious. Females on the other hand, are a little slower to the party, but you’ll spot them straight away, they’ve got a cute baby pumpkin tucked in behind their petals. Now, sometimes your patch will look like a “boys club” with nothing but male flowers. Don’t panic! That’s just the plant getting warmed up. The girls will show up when the vine’s ready to get serious. On the flip side, if you’ve only got female flowers but no males in sight, it’s usually the plant sulking because of stress, like wild weather, poor soil, or too much nitrogen. Keep your watering steady, ease up on the lush green fertilisers, and things usually even out. Why Baby Pumpkins Start… Then Drop Off 😩 Few things are sadder than seeing a cute little pumpkin start to grow, only to shrivel up and fall off. Nine times out of ten, that’s down to poor pollination. Without enough pollen from a male flower, the girls just can’t carry a pumpkin to term. Other culprits? Hot, dry weather that stresses the plant. Crowded vines with no airflow. Or powdery mildew sucking the life out of the leaves. The Hand-Pollination Hack ✋🐝 When the bees are off busy carrying out their business elsewhere, or you just want to play Cupid, hand pollination is your secret weapon. It’s easy: Spot your male flower (thin stalk, pollen centre). Gently pluck it, peel the petals back, and dab the pollen onto the centre of a female flower (the one with the baby pumpkin). Too squeamish to pluck? Use a soft paintbrush or cotton bud to play matchmaker. Best time is in the early morning while the flowers are fresh and open. Do this and you’ll be loading up the wheelbarrow with pumpkins in no time. Keeping Pumpkins Happy & Healthy (a.k.a. Outsmarting Powdery Mildew) If there’s one thing pumpkin vines are famous for, apart from taking over the backyard, it’s falling victim to powdery mildew. That white powdery stuff on the leaves looks harmless, but it can slow your plants down big time. Here’s how to keep your patch in tip-top shape: Let them breathe – Give your vines space to sprawl and train them to ramble instead of tangling into one big leafy mess. Water smart – Aim the hose at the soil, not the leaves. Wet leaves = fungal playground. Mulch magic – Thick mulch keeps moisture steady and stress low. DIY leaf spray – Mix 1 tsp bicarb soda with 1L water + a couple drops of liquid soap. Spray it lightly over leaves to help ward off mildew. Rotate the patch – Don’t keep planting pumpkins in the same spot year after year, mix things up with other crops to keep soil healthy. Final Pumpkin Patch Wisdom 🎃🌱 Pumpkins are greedy for space, give them room to ramble and they’ll reward you. Once flowers kick in, switch to a potassium-rich feed (think fruit & flower fertiliser) to help the vines pump out those pumpkins. Harvest when the skin hardens and the stalk goes woody, then cure them in the sun for a week so they store well. And most importantly, don’t overthink it! Pumpkins are tough, and a little backyard love goes a long way. So, no more pumpkin envy over the neighbour’s patch, it’s your turn now. With these tips up your sleeve, you’ll be serving up roast pumpkin, pumpkin soup, and yes… maybe even my pumpkin scones in no time. 😉☕✨

Written and edited by Tammy 14th July 2025 There’s just something exciting about digging up your own homegrown potatoes, that anticipation of how many treasures lay hiding beneath the soil! And the good news is, they’re actually super easy to grow with a bit of know-how and the right timing. I've compiled an easy step by step guide, so there's no excuse for you not to be in on the fun too. I've even included my favourite potato and leek soup recipe! ⸻ How to Grow Seed Potatoes: A Simple Step-by-Step Guide Step 1: Choose Your Seed Potatoes These aren’t the ones from the bottom of your pantry that started sprouting. You want certified seed potatoes, reason being, these are disease-free and bred for healthy yields. Pop in and see me at our Naracoorte K&B Mitre 10, I've still got plenty available in stock, or you'll find them at any garden centre or nursery. Pick a variety that suits your cooking style. Popular varieties include Kipflers, Dutch Cream, Pontiac, Sebago. 🌟HINT: If you're a newbie to growing spuds and aren't sure what variety to get, there'll be some suggestions for the most suitable use for each variety on the packaging. Waxy, firmer varieties are great for roasting as they hold their shape, starchy, creamier types are perfect for mashed spud! ⸻ Step 2: Chit Them (aka Pre-Sprout-optional) Lay your seed potatoes out in a tray or egg carton, eyes facing up, in a cool bright spot out of direct sunlight. Wait a couple of weeks for little stubby sprouts to form. This gives them a head start once they’re in the ground. (You're not a bad spud parent if you've skipped this step, they're still going to sprout and grow regardless, they may just take a tad longer in cooler zones like ours in SA). 🌟TIP : If your potatoes are big (about the size of a lemon or larger), you can cut them into chunks. Just make sure each chunk has at least one strong eye and allow the cut surface to dry for a day or two before planting to prevent rot. ⸻ Step 3: Prepare the Soil Choose a sunny, well-drained spot in your garden or use a large container or grow bag. Potatoes love rich soil, so dig through some compost or aged manure. (Reach for a bag of Neutrog Chocka blok 😁👍) They also like slightly acidic soil, around pH 5.5 to 6.5. I've planted some in a grow bag at work so we can watch them grow. They've just began to sprout in the last week, I'm super excited, pop in for a look! ⸻ Step 4: Plant Them • Dig a trench or hole about 10–15 cm deep • Place your seed potatoes in, eyes facing up • Space them about 30 cm apart • Cover lightly with soil, don’t mound fully yet! ⸻ Step 5: Hill Them Up As the green shoots pop through the soil and grow to about 15–20 cm tall, mound soil or straw around them, just leave the tops poking through. Doing this protects the developing tubers from sunlight (which turns them green and toxic) and encourages more potatoes to form up the stem. Repeat hilling every couple of weeks as the plants grow. ⸻ Step 6: Water & Watch Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Too much water and they rot, too little and they sulk. Once flowering begins, the tubers are forming, so get excited! ⸻ Step 7: Harvest Time! • For baby new potatoes, gently dig around the base once the plant flowers. • For full-sized spuds, wait until the plant’s foliage yellows and dies back. • Then dig them up with a fork (carefully, don’t stab them!). Let them dry off in a cool, airy spot before storing in a dark cupboard. ⸻ 🌟Tip: Rotate Your Crops Don’t plant potatoes in the same spot year after year, they’re greedy feeders and can attract soil-borne diseases. Rotate with legumes or leafy greens next season. ⸻ And it's as simple as that! Whether you’re planting them into garden beds or big pots out in the patio, growing your own potatoes is fun, rewarding, and super satisfying come dinner time. As promised, here's a downloadable recipe for my favourite potato and leek soup😁 Keep warm and enjoy your gardens 😘🪴 Hearty winter warmer Potato and Leek Soup Other posts you might be interested in How Frost Affects Plants & Tips for Preventing Frostburn When our plants are exposed to frost, this is what happens:  1. Plant Tissues Freeze:  The sub-zero temperatures cause the water within the plant cells to freeze.  2. Cell Damage : The cell walls and membranes of the plant then become physically damaged due to the formation of ice crystals within those cells. Composting - the Beginners Guide! Thinking about starting a compost pile but not sure where to begin? You’re in the right place! Composting is one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to turn kitchen scraps and garden waste into rich, nutrient-pack ed soil food. Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or a tiny balcony, composting is totally doable and surprisingly fun. In this beginners guide I’ll break it all down step-by-step so you can start transforming your kitchen and garden waste into garden gold. Adapting to Drought Tolerant Gardening: Thriving in the Dry. Gardening during dry times isn’t about giving up and accepting defeat, it’s about getting smart and creative. By embracing some simple alternatives, our gardens can become more resilient, sustainable, and beautiful than ever. What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together. Bare root season -It's all here!! Bare root season is one of the busiest times of the year for Balhannah Nurseries .  It's when they lift their young trees from the ground while they're dormant, the process doesn't shock, stress or upset them because they're asleep, they're not actively growing.

Written and edited by Tammy 7th August 2025 2 weeks out from the official start to spring, but already the days are stretching a little longer, and buds are swollen on the verge of busting into blossom. Our gardens can sense it and so can we! If you’ve driven around the South East (South Australia) recently, chances are you’ve spotted an explosion of golden pompoms lighting up local parklands, paddock edges and roadsides. Meet Acacia Baileyana, affectionately known as the Cootamundra Wattle, and they really are stealing the show right now! Native to New South Wales but now widely loved and planted throughout South Australia, these iconic Aussie tree brings a bold splash of colour just when we need it most. ⸻ A Quick Snapshot -Acacia Baileyana Cootamundra Wattle • Height & Growth Habit: Typically grows between 4–8 metres tall, with a graceful, spreading canopy. • Foliage: Gorgeous soft, feathery blue-grey leaves-also a purple foliage variety available ( Acacia Baileyana Purpurea ) • Flowers: Dense clusters of bright yellow puffballs bloom in late winter to early spring. • Fast-growing: Great for quickly filling out a space or providing wind protection. • Hardy: Thrives in full sun and tolerates dry conditions once established. • Pollinator heaven: An absolute must if catering to birds bees and wildlife is a priority in your garden. • Bird habitat: Offers shelter and food for birds, making it a win for local biodiversity. Just give it a well-drained spot, a bit of room to spread, and it’ll reward you with year after year of golden joy. ⸻ Environmental Considerations Cootamundra Wattles as beautiful as they are, in some regions of Australia can naturalise and spread beyond intended areas. In native bushland, they can sometimes compete with local species (especially in Victoria). Stick to garden-friendly varieties like grafted forms or the purple foliage cultivars ' acacia baileyana ‘Purpurea’ in sensitive areas. (Kind of irrelevant for home gardens but just something to be aware of if you back onto or are beside native parklands or scrubs.) Just goes to show how hardy they are! Maintenance Tip While Cootamundra Wattles are mostly low-fuss, pruning them lightly after flowering will help to maintain a nice shape and keep them happy and thriving. ⸻ Where to Get One You’ll often find them at local nurseries, native plant specialists, or Mitre 10 garden centres. Some growers are even establishing dwarf or grafted forms for smaller gardens or street plantings. ⸻ Whether you’re planting for the bees, adding bold winter colour, or just want something tough as boots but pretty as a picture, the Cootamundra Wattle is a standout performer. Keep an eye out when you're taking the dog for a walk next through native parklands, Sunday driving around our region, they really are a sight to see. Happy Gardening 😘💛

Written and edited by Tammy 13th Aug 2025 We're well into the last month of winter and you can definitely feel spring is in the air! There are a few really important jobs on most gardeners to do lists right now, and if you own any stone fruits this is one of them-treating for leaf curl. Leaf curl is a fungal disease (caused by Taphrina deformans ) that mainly attacks peaches and nectarines. It shows up in spring when new leaves emerge thickened, puckered, and often red or yellow, eventually becoming dry and distorted. Over the winter months the microscopic fungal spores continue to live on the tree hiding in tiny crevices in the bark and around the dormant buds. When the weather is cool and wet in late winter and into early spring, the spores become active. As the buds swell and leaves begin to emerge, the spores infect the soft new growth, starting the cycle all over again. Because leaf curl infection happens right at bud burst , your one chance to stop it is during bud swell , that stage where the buds are plump, showing a hint of colour, but before the leaves open. Once the leaves emerge, it’s too late for prevention. What to do: Spray with a copper-based fungicide  (such as copper oxychloride or copper hydroxide). Ensure thorough coverage  of all branches and buds. If the weather stays dry, follow up with a second spray about a week later  for extra protection. A couple of well-timed sprays now can save you from months of distorted, damaged leaves, and set you up for a bumper crop of beautiful fruit. 🍑 If leaf curl isn’t managed, over time it can take quite a toll on your stone fruit trees. Weakened growth:  Repeated attacks drain the tree’s energy as it tries to replace the damaged leaves. Reduced fruiting:  Fewer healthy leaves mean less photosynthesis, which means less energy for flowers and fruit, yields can drop significantly. Smaller, poorer-quality fruit:  Any fruit that does develop is often small, misshapen, or slow to ripen. Increased vulnerability:  A stressed tree is more prone to other pests, diseases, and even cold or drought damage. Progressive decline:  Severe, repeated infections over several years can lead to dieback of branches and, in extreme cases, the loss of the tree. For home gardeners, that can mean going from a basket of juicy peaches to barely enough for a snack, or eventually no crop at all. Prevention is far easier (and cheaper) than trying to nurse a badly infected tree back to health. Think of leaf curl like that uninvited guest who turns up every year right when the party’s about to start, only this one eats all your snacks and wrecks the furniture. A quick spray or two at the right time keeps the gate closed, your leaves lovely, and your peaches plentiful. Happy gardening 😘🍑 Other posts you might find interesting How Frost Affects Plants & Tips for Preventing Frostburn Frosts are among the greatest adversaries for gardeners throughout the colder months. Days with clear, sunny skies often lead to subzero temperatures overnight, causing frosts to occur. Without being pro- active and having measures in place, the results can be detrimental. What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together. Beginners Guide to Creating a landscape design for your new home Creating your own landscape design  can be one of the most exciting and rewarding parts of moving into a new home. It’s your opportunity to shape the outdoor space into something that’s not only beautiful, but functional and your own. Whether you envision a lush garden, a modern patio, or a family-friendly backyard, it all starts with a solid plan. Composting - the Beginners Guide! Thinking about starting a compost pile but not sure where to begin? You’re in the right place! Composting is one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to turn kitchen scraps and garden waste into rich, nutrient-packed soil food. Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or a tiny balcony, composting is totally doable and surprisingly fun. In this beginners guide I’ll break it all down step-by-step so you can start transforming your kitchen and garden waste into garden gold. Looking for plants that thrive through dry spells? Tips to keep your garden thriving even in tough Australian summers? Grab my practical, heartfelt guide packed with ideas, inspiration, and real advice straight from my own garden to yours💚

Moss-the Winter lawn invader Written and edited by Tammy 27th July 2025 That soft, velvety green carpet, the kind everyone was proud to have running up the hallway in the '70s, might’ve looked great inside… but taking over your lawn? Not so much. Welcome moss! Another moisture-loving guest that thrives in shady, compacted spots. While it’s not dangerous, moss can slowly smother out grass if left unchecked. Luckily, the same lawn-improving habits that deter slime mould, aeration, drainage, careful watering, will help you fight moss too. How to Manage It Without Waging War on Your Lawn If your lawn’s starting to look more like a soft green carpet than a patch of turf, chances are you’ve got a moss situation on your hands. Moss is one of those quiet invaders, it doesn’t yell or cause chaos, it just gradually creeps in, especially in spots where your grass is having a hard time. The good news is you don’t need harsh chemicals or an all-out turf war to fix it. A few tweaks to your lawn care routine can shift the balance back in favour of healthy grass. What Causes Moss in Lawns? Moss thrives where grass struggles. That means: Shady areas (under trees, beside fences, etc.) Damp, poorly drained soil Compacted ground that roots can’t penetrate Low soil fertility or very acidic conditions Thin or patchy turf cover Basically, if moss is thriving, it's nature’s way of waving a little flag to let you know something's a little off. Is Moss Bad for My Lawn? Not exactly. Moss doesn’t kill grass directly, but it does  move into the bare patches where grass is struggling or has already given up. If left to do its thing, it can take over and make it harder for lawn to re-establish. Unlike fungus or slime mould, that go on their own, moss is a plant that will continue to thrive when provided with the right conditions. How to Get Rid of Moss (Kindly) If you’re keen to evict it gently but firmly, here are a few lawn-loving, eco-friendly strategies: Rake it out Use a spring tine rake or dethatching rake to physically lift the moss out. It’s satisfying in that “garden workout” kind of way! Aerate compacted areas A garden fork or lawn aerator helps roots breathe and improves drainage. Top dress with compost and sand This helps level out dips and boosts microbial life that supports healthy turf. Over sow thin patches Thicken up your grass to outcompete moss. Choose a shade-tolerant lawn seed if light is limited. Check soil pH Moss loves acidic soil. If your pH is low, (acidic) a gentle sprinkle of garden lime can help raise things up (but test first!). Let the light in! Prune back any overgrown shrubs or overhanging tree branches to let light back in to your lawn. For the “Do-Something” Types… If you feel like you have  spray something, try one of these gentler options: Vinegar & water spray : Use in dry weather and spot test first. Moss hates acidity too but so does grass in large doses. Bicarb solution : 1 tablespoon baking soda to 1 litre of water, sprayed lightly. Won’t kill the lawn but helps dry moss. Iron sulphate : A common, lawn-safe moss treatment when used as directed. Bonus: it greens up your grass too. Moss isn’t your enemy, but it is  a sign that your lawn could use a little TLC. If you focus on improving the conditions that moss loves (damp, shade, compaction), you’ll not only get on top of the moss issue but help your lawn come back better than ever. No drama, no harsh chemicals, just a little backyard balance. Keep warm, enjoy the rain. Happy Gardening 😘🪴 Other Posts You Might be Interested In How Frost Affects Plants & Tips for Preventing Frostburn When our plants are exposed to frost, this is what happens:  1. Plant Tissues Freeze:  The sub-zero temperatures cause the water within the plant cells to freeze.... Composting - the Beginners Guide! Thinking about starting a compost pile but not sure where to begin? Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or a tiny balcony, composting is totally doable and surprisingly fun. In this beginner guide I’ll break it all down step-by-step...... What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together. Adapting to Drought Tolerant Gardening: Thriving in the Dry. Gardening during dry times isn’t about giving up and accepting defeat, it’s about getting smart and creative. By embracing some simple alternatives, our gardens can become more resilient, sustainable, and beautiful than ever. Slime Mould in Your Winter Lawn? What it is and How to deal It Slime mould is one of nature’s weird little wonders, an odd-looking, harmless organism that’s often mistaken for something sinister. It’s not actually a fungus (or mould in the true sense) but a fungus-like 'stuff' that thrives in damp, organic-rich environments.

Slime mould Written and edited by Tammy 27th July 2025 If you're anything like me, even on the coldest, wettest wintery days I still grab a moment or two here and there to wander out on the lawn for some fresh air and a reality check before grabbing another chunk of wood for the fire. But have you ever come to a grinding halt, horrified by sight of some weird, gelatinous goo that looked like it came from another planet? What Is Slime Mould? Slime mould is one of nature’s weird little wonders, an odd-looking, harmless organism that’s often mistaken for something sinister. It’s not actually a fungus (or mould in the true sense) but a fungus-like 'stuff' that thrives in damp, organic-rich environments. It doesn’t feed on your grass, just the decaying bits, like bacteria, leaf litter, and organic matter. You might spot it as jelly-like blobs, powdery smears, or even as foamy splashes that look like someone spilled a bucket of paint across your lawn. Spooky? A bit. Dangerous? Not at all. These little blobs usually pop up after rain, heavy dew, or long stints of overcast, cloudy, damp weather, especially in shady or poorly drained corners of the yard. Is Slime Mould Harmful to Lawns? The short answer? No. It might look  a little, alarming and unsightly, but slime mould won't harm your grass. At worst, a thick patch of it might momentarily block some sunlight if it blankets the grass thick enough, but once things dry out, it’ll usually disappear all on its own. So if you can live with it for a little while, do! It’s part of a living, breathing ecosystem under your feet. How to Get Rid of Slime Mould (If You’re Not a Fan) Ok I get it. It doesn't tick the box for 'aesthetics', quite likely a slip hazard for grandma on her way to the washing line, and definitely not what you'd like the curious grandies playing in or adding to their mud pies. So, if waiting for it to leave on its own isn't an option, here's a few safe and simple things you could try: Rake it lightly or brush it off  with a broom, nothing too aggressive, just enough to break it up and get the air flowing. It'll dry out much faster with a bit of encouragement. Ease up on the watering , especially if you've had decent rainfall lately (like we have!). Your soil’s likely hanging onto plenty of moisture already. If you’ve got automatic sprinklers running, it might be time to hit pause for a bit, no need to overdo it when nature’s already doing the job for you. Keep the grass mown  to reduce thatch buildup and let the air and sunlight in to ground level. Thatch acts like a sponge and creates the perfect hideout for moisture-loving organisms like slime mould. Improve air circulation and drainage , consider aerating compacted areas or using a soil wetter in hydrophobic spots to help water soak in more evenly.   Encourage beneficial soil life , adding compost or worm castings supports microbes that naturally compete with unwanted fungi and slime. Topdress low, soggy areas  with a mix of sand and compost to even out dips and improve surface drainage. Let the chooks help  A gentle scratch around (supervised of course) can disturb the mould, dry the area out, and even reduce pests while they’re at it. Let them out for a scratch around on the lawn occasionally, they’ll aerate, de-thatch and snack on bugs all in one go. For the “Spray-and-Walk-Away” Crowd If the frustration gets the better of you, here are a couple of gentle, garden-safe options that still feel  like you're doing something, without harming your lawn or your soil: Diluted vinegar spray : Mix 1 part white vinegar with 4 parts water and lightly spray the slime mould to help dry it out faster. Just go easy, vinegar in strong doses can affect surrounding grass and soil microbes if overused. Lemon juice and water mix : Mild, citrusy, and smells better than vinegar! Same idea, use it as a light mist, not a dousing. Sprinkle a little garden lime : Not to kill it, but to help raise the pH slightly and discourage future growth in really acidic, damp spots. Just a light dusting, too much lime can throw your soil balance out of whack. Bicarb spray (baking soda) : 1 tablespoon of bicarb in a litre of water can help dry and discourage some fungal-like growths. It’s gentle and safe, just don’t soak the area. Important: These remedies are more about satisfying that “doing something” itch, they’re not miracle cures. But they won’t harm your soil like harsh fungicides would either. Always spot test first and apply sparingly. Slime mould might look like something straight out of a sci-fi, but really, in all honesty it's just nature doing its thing. In fact, it’s a quirky little sign that your soil is full of organic matter and teeming with microscopic life. So, unless it’s really bothering you, take a deep breath and move on to the next check box on the 'garden to do list'. It’ll be gone before you know it and your lawn will be no worse for wear. Keep warm and enjoy this beautiful winter rains. Happy Gardening 😘🪴 Other Posts You Might be Interested In Moss In Winter Lawns That soft, velvety green carpet, the kind everyone was proud to have running up the hallway in the '70s, might’ve looked great inside… but taking over your lawn? Not so much. Welcome moss! Another moisture-loving guest that thrives in shady, compacted spots. Composting - the Beginners Guide! Thinking about starting a compost pile but not sure where to begin? Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or a tiny balcony, composting is totally doable and surprisingly fun. In this beginner guide I’ll break it all down step-by-step...... What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together.

Written and edited by Tammy 18th July 2025 Winter might feel like a perfect time to hang up the gloves and catch up on some Netflix by the fire, and by all means, do that too, but there’s actually plenty going on out in the garden right now. Some of the best prep and pruning happens while everything’s still snoozing. So, if you’re wondering what to tackle, what's a priority right now, here’s your little winter to-do list 🧤🪴 Winter Gardening Tasks Prune Your Fruit Trees Now’s the perfect time to shape your apples, pears, peaches, plums and other deciduous fruit trees while they’re dormant. Pruning them now improves shape, removes dead or diseased wood, and boosts fruiting potential. Aim to: Reduce the height to keep the fruit within reach. Open the canopy (think of a vase shape), remove dead, diseased or inwards facing branches to improve light and air circulation, and keep fruit within reach. 🌟 HINT Take the opportunity now while there's no leaves and you can see clearly, to familiarise yourself with all the new buds and shoots. Take some pictures to refer back to in a couple of months to become confident in distinguishing between fruit or foliage buds. 👉 Check out my easy guide including labelled diagrams here. ⸻ Rose Pruning Time Time to face the thorns! July's for not only pruning your fruit trees, but your roses too. Pruning them now gives them a chance to rest and recover before bursting back to life. Don’t be scared, roses are tougher than they look. Give them a good cut back and they’ll thank you with a stunning show come spring. Aim to: Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of their overall height and size as a guide. Remove anything dead, diseased or cris-crossing into the centre of the plant. Prune on an angle above an outward facing good strong healthy bud. 👉 Not sure where to start? Here’s how I prune my roses, watch the short video. ⸻ Plant Seed Potatoes Spud season is here! If you’ve been waiting to plant your seed potatoes, now’s your moment to shine. Prep yourself with a nice sunny spot in good quality soil or grab some grow bags. There's plenty of varieties to choose from, pick the one that's best for your cooking preferences. 👉Want to learn how to grow potatoes from scratch. It's all here. ⸻ Feed Your soil Winter is the ideal time to enrich your garden beds. Add compost, aged manure, or a layer of mulch to keep those soil microbes happy and warm. Healthy soil = happy plants later on. Trust me, your efforts will be rewarded in spades. 👉This is why it's important to feed your so il 👉And my fav 'go to' company for quality organic soil nutrition products is.... ⸻ Plan and Replant Bare Root Trees If you’ve been 'Umming and Ahhing' about putting in some new fruit trees, ornamental shade trees, or even roses, now’s the time. Bare root season is short but sweet. Stock is usually plentiful and affordable, the ground is cool and damp, and winter rains help to settle plants in. Come Spring, they’ll already be right at home and ready to burst into life. 👉 You'll need to know how to pick the right tree, what to avoid-AND a few planting tips! So there you have it, five simple things to keep you busy and your garden ticking along through winter. Pop your beanie on, grab your secateurs, and enjoy this beautiful slow season. Happy Gardening😘🪴 Here in the lower SE and keen to have me wander around the garden with you for some more advice? I'm only a shout out away😘👉 Other Post You Might be Interested In How Frost Affects Plants & Tips for Preventing Frostburn When our plants are exposed to frost, this is what happens:  1. Plant Tissues Freeze:  The sub-zero temperatures cause the water within the plant cells to freeze.... Composting - the Beginners Guide! Thinking about starting a compost pile but not sure where to begin? Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or a tiny balcony, composting is totally doable and surprisingly fun. In this beginner guide I’ll break it all down step-by-step...... Adapting to Drought Tolerant Gardening: Thriving in the Dry. Gardening during dry times isn’t about giving up and accepting defeat, it’s about getting smart and creative. By embracing some simple alternatives, our gardens can become more resilient, sustainable, and beautiful than ever. What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together. Bare root season -It's all here!! Bare root season is one of the busiest times of the year for Balhannah Nurseries .  It's when they lift their young trees from the ground while they're dormant, the process doesn't shock, stress or upset them because they're asleep, they're not actively growing.

Written and Edited by Tammy Johnson 5th June 2025 For those of you who don't know me personally, I have a regular daytime job like anyone else. But I'm one of the few lucky ones who can proudly say I truly loves my job and what I do. I manage the Green-life Garden Department of our local K&B Mitre 10, and aside of the obvious perk, getting paid to buy and play with plants every day, what I really love is interacting with my customers, and building relationships with fellow gardeners. You can only imagine my excitement bouncing into work yesterday moments after the Balhannah Nurseries truck had just delivered my 2025 Bare Root seasons trees! New Seasons Bare Root Trees (Ok, I'll let you in on a little secret, I barely slept the night before and have probably driven my workmates silly with my excitement in the last week). So let me share some of that excitement with you and explain what bare root season is all about. Balhannah Nurseries has a rich history spanning over 130 years at Charleston in the Adelaide Hills and are one of South Australia's leading wholesale tree growers. The nursery was founded in 1867 by Charles Pitt and later expanded by Henry Wicks, making it one of South Australia's oldest and most respected tree growers. Today, Balhannah Nurseries continues this legacy by producing over 300,000 trees annually, supplying high-quality deciduous fruit and ornamental trees to retail garden centres just like ours, and commercial growers across the region. Bare root season Bare root season is one of the busiest times of the year for Balhannah Nurseries . It's when they lift their young trees from the ground while they're dormant, the process doesn't shock, stress or upset them because they're asleep, they're not actively growing. The trimmed root systems are nestled in damp sawdust, then wrapped securely in plastic, and from there they're distributed to retail nurseries like ours ready for you to buy and plant. The Advantage of Bare Root Trees They're cheaper than potted trees. Can be forward ordered and plentiful in supply. Convenient to transport a large quantity of trees in a small amount of space. Can be settled into their new location whilst the tree is still dormant avoiding transplant shock. If you're super organised and know what you're planting where, you may have already pre-ordered your trees to avoid the disappointment of missing out, or you might prefer to wander through the selection and choose based on what's available and jumps out at you at the time. There are so many varieties to choose from that it can feel a little overwhelming. Pollination 🌸🐝 When it comes to fruit trees, it's worth doing a bit of preliminary research. Be armed with the knowledge of which trees are self-pollinating such as peaches, nectarines and apricots, verses those that need a pollination partner like apples, pears, plums and most cherries (with the exception of Stella, which is self-fertile). **Little Tip** You'll usually find this information on the back of the tree's product tag. It will tell you if the tree is self-pollinating and if not, provide a suggestion for a suitable pollination companion. would be, taking the guess work out of it for you. If you're choosing a variety that does requires a pollinator, you'll need enough space for two compatible trees, or you might consider a multi-grafted tree. A tree with multiple varieties grafted onto one rootstock. Space requirements If you're working with limited space, consider planting dwarf trees. These days there are almost as many dwarf varieties available as there are full sized trees. Dwarf trees take up about half the space, can be grown in large pots or half wine barrels, and still produce full-sized fruit just like their big sisters. Keep in mind though, you won't get quite the volume of fruit from a smaller tree and, the life expectancy of dwarf trees is typically half that of a standard sized one. Espaliering is another space saving option worth considering. This technique involves training a tree to grow flat against a wall, fence, or frame, making it ideal for tight spots or as decorative features. Now that we've established what you're looking for, it's time to choose your trees. What to avoid When selecting your trees, look for ones with multiple strong, healthy laterals (side branches). The wood should appear hydrated and have a healthy colour, with plenty of plump, fuzzy little buds along the stems. Avoid trees with wood that looks dry, shrivelled, discoloured or damage. Signs of disease, open wounds, or very dark coloured wood can indicate dehydration, or in the worst case that the tree is no longer viable. Most bare root trees arrive from the growers with their roots packed in damp wood shavings or sawdust, wrapped in plastic to keep them damp. Sometimes, though, trees arrive at your retailer unpackaged. In that case, they’re often displayed in raised beds or large containers filled with damp compost, then wrapped as you select them. This is perfectly fine, as long as the roots haven’t dried out. Pruning Before planting, the canopy of your new bare root trees will need pruning back by one-third to one-half. (Back to approximately 20 healthy buds). This helps balance the tree reducing the demand on the root system which has been trimmed and is still recovering. If the tree is left top heavy and out of proportion, the workload will be too great and there's a good chance it won't establish successfully. If you're unsure or not confident in doing this yourself, ask the qualified horticulturist when you purchase your trees to do this for you. (This is what I love being able to help you with). If you do feel confident giving it a go, here is what I aim for: Keep three to four strong, healthy laterals (side branches). Prune each back by one-third to one-half, making your cuts just above an outward-facing bud . Remove anything that’s damaged, dead, or oddly shaped. Also remove any branches that cross or grow inward toward the centre of the tree. Planting preparation While you're preparing the planting hole, give your tree a soak in a solution of Seasol in water. Seasol Health Treatment is a seaweed enriched tonic that boosts a plant's immune system, stimulate root growth, and help reduce transplant shock. You'll need to dig the hole twice as wide as the root ball, but only as deep as the tree was originally growing. Look for a colour change on the lower part of the trunk, usually somewhere between the graft and the roots. This marks the depth the tree was previously planted at and should guide your planting depth. Important: The graft should always be above the soil, never below it. Mound up a little soil a little at the bottom of the hole and gently spread the roots out over and around the mound. Then begin backfilling the hole, pressing the soil in firmly as you go to prevent any air pockets. Leave a shallow watering well or recess around the base of the tree so the water soaks down into the root zone rather than running off. Use the same seasol solution you soaked the tree in earlier to water it in. Watch for air bubbles rising up through the soil, this is a good sign the roots are thoroughly soaked and no air pockets remain. Finally add some organic fertiliser such as Rapid Raiser as per the application rates on the bag. This will provide essential nutrients to support your tree when it wakes from dormancy in spring. Support If you live in a windy area, it’s a good idea to support your young trees while they’re still establishing. Use a single sturdy hardwood stake, or for extra stability, a trio of stakes arranged around the tree. Water Water your trees regularly and thoroughly throughout the first season, especially if rainfall is light and inconsistent.  Young trees need consistent moisture while they’re putting down roots. By following these measures you'll be giving your trees every opportunity to take and grow successfully. As always if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to message me or get in-touch. Rug up, keep warm and enjoy your gardens.😘🪴 Balhannah Nurseries

Crazy Paving Pathway Crazy Paving Pathway: From Problem Spot to Beautiful Feature What do you do when you’ve got a tricky corner in the yard where grass never grows, or you just know  something’s missing from your garden but can’t quite put your finger on it? Have you ever considered building a garden path ? 😁 Practical Beauty With a Touch of Mystery Creating a garden path  is about more than just getting from A to B. It’s a way to add structure, personality, and even a little magic to your outdoor space. Whether you have a sprawling backyard or a cosy courtyard, a thoughtfully designed path can completely transform how your garden looks and  feels. Here are five great reasons why a garden path  is more than just a landscaping extra, it’s a total game changer: 1. Practicality: A Clear Route Through Nature The most obvious benefit of a garden path  is its practicality. It offers a clean, dry, and stable surface to walk on, especially handy after rain. It helps keep shoes clean and avoids muddy shortcuts across the lawn. Paths also protect your garden beds by directing foot traffic away from delicate plants and preventing soil compaction. Whether it leads to your greenhouse, compost bin, or veggie patch, it makes every step smoother, all the while keeping your shoes clean! 2. Aesthetic Appeal: Structure Meets Style A well-placed garden path  brings form and flow to your garden. It can: Highlight focal points like a bird bath, water feature, park bench or feature tree. Create contrast between lush greenery and hard landscaping Make even small gardens feel intentional and complete From straight, formal lines to curvy, whimsical trails, there’s a garden path  to suit every style. 3. Solving Garden Problems: Where Nothing Will Grow We all have that one frustrating spot in the garden where nothing will grow, too shady, poor soil or too compacted from heavy foot traffic. Why keep replanting? Instead of waging a losing battle, turn that trouble spot into a stunning garden path . It turns a problem area into a charming feature, problem solved! 4. Add Intrigue: The Magic of a Meandering Path A winding garden path  that disappears behind a shrub or curves out of view brings a powerful element of mystery to the garden. It gently invites visitors (and you!) to explore, discover, and daydream. That sense of what’s around the corner?  adds charm, whimsy, and a dash of romance to your outdoor space. 5. A Sense of Destination A garden path  can lead somewhere purposeful, a cozy bench, veggie patch, fire pit, or even just your washing line. It helps guide the eye and the feet, giving your garden a natural rhythm and flow. By creating a sense of journey and arrival, your space feels more intentional and inviting. Stone and rubble pathway that defines the areas Materials to Build Your Garden Path Materials You Can Use to Make Your Garden Path There are loads of creative, budget friendly materials you can use to build your path and each brings its own vibe and functionality: • Gravel – Affordable, great drainage, and easy to install. Ideal for informal gardens. • Flagstone or Slate – Natural-looking and elegant. Offers a timeless appeal. • Brick – Classic and durable. Adds a warm, traditional charm. • Wood Slices, Stepping Stones, or large boulders – Rustic and playful. Great for cottage gardens or whimsical paths. • Concrete Pavers – Versatile and modern. Available in many shapes and colors. • Mulch – Soft underfoot and easy to refresh. Works well in natural or woodland gardens. A Garden Path Is More Than a Walkway A garden path isn’t just a walkway, it’s a design element, a solution to a problem area, and a way to turn your yard into a journey rather than just a space. Whether you’re dealing with mud, barren patches, or a desire for more beauty and intrigue, a well-placed path can elevate your entire landscape. Ready to transform your yard? Grab a shovel, your materials, and let the adventure begin! Happy Gardening! 😘🪴 Other Posts You May Enjoy Beginners Guide to Creating a landscape design for your new home Creating your own landscape design  can be one of the most exciting and rewarding parts of moving into a new home. It’s your opportunity to shape the outdoor space into something that’s not only beautiful, but functional and your own. Micro-Climate-How to Create a Garden, Within Your Garden. Watch any gardening shows on tv, and you’ll often hear them use the term ‘Microclimate’ but what IS a microclimate?? The term microclimate refers to a small area where the climate conditions differ from the surrounding area.