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Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum Written and edited by Tammy 7th September 2024 Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum would have to be one of my favourite plants I recommend time and time again, when asked for something pretty, but hardy and adaptable. Convolvulus Cneorum Convolvulaceae, commonly known as the 'Morning Glory' family of flowering plants, mostly comprises herbaceous climbing vines, but Cneorum is one of only a few that are a dense, bushy, spreading shrub. Native to the mediterranean regions, they prefer alkaline soil, a full sun to part shade aspect, and good drainage. They stand up well to the cold and are tolerative of hot, dry periods. Size wise, they form a nice, dense mound, of approximately 60cm tall and upto 120cm wide. Convolvulus Cneorum is well known is the landscaping world for being a winner of the Royal horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit for its outstanding qualities and landscape performance. To see it in full bloom covered in masses of beautiful, vibrant white flowers on soft silvery grey foliage, you can appreciate how versatile it really is, in that it will suit anything from cottage style gardens and rockeries to mass plantings for borders. Instead of annuals that need to be replaced each season, try planting some silver bush in pots or hanging baskets as a feature or mobile display that can be moved from one spot to the next for a pop of colour that will continue to bloom for months and months on end. Convolvulus Cneorum Next time you're in Naracoorte, drive past the new Mitre 10, look for it growing beneath the ornamental flowering plums Prunus 'Crimson Spire' in the carpark garden beds. I planted them there almost 18 months ago when our store opened as small plants no larger than potted colour. (3 plants per 6 meters) You'll see they're well on the way to reaching their mature size now, and as I hoped, they contrast beautifully with the burgundy foliage of the flowering plums. Other than the initial watering them in, and a seasonal handful of Rapid Raiser, they're thriving of whatever Mother Nature provides them with. They've stood up to the 40 degree days we had at the end of last summer, and the frosts we had in the tail end of this winter. They really are a winner. Covolvulus growing beneath Ornamental Plums The perfect plant ticking all the boxes for ease of care, hardiness and masses of colour. Add this one to your garden wish list today. Happy Gardening! 😘🪴 Other Posts You Might Enjoy Flowering ornamental plums When is the Best Time to Fertilise Your Garden and What Products Should You Use? “Is it too soon to fertilise yet?" If you’re hesitating and unsure, the answer is no… not at all! With everything beginning to wake from dormancy, now is the most important time of the year to start fertilising. Elberta Peaches Top 20 Best Fruit Trees Guide Whether you're beginning with a blank canvas for a new fruit orchard, or you've got space for one or two additional trees to complete your collection, deciding which ones to go with can be a little overwhelming. To solve that dilemma and make it easier for you I've compiled a list of what I consider to be the top 20 best fruit trees. Hedging shears Beginners guide to Pruning tools-which one to use! Pruning is one of those jobs that all gardeners need to do at some point whether you have a conservative little courtyard or a sprawling landscaped masterpiece. But where do you start? which tool is for what??" Let's go through a few and see if I can help solve some of the confusion. Spring Frosts How Frost Affects Plants & Tips for Preventing Frostburn Frosts are among the greatest adversaries for gardeners throughout the colder months. Days with clear, sunny skies often lead to subzero temperatures overnight, causing frosts to occur. Without being pro-active and having measures in place, the results can be detrimental. Fertilisers Which fertiliser should I use?🤷‍♀️ One of the most important jobs at the top of everyone's 'to do list' right now is to feed your gardens. Whether it's your roses, lawns, garden beds, fruit trees or indoor plants, they're all going to need to be fed. It can be confusing trying to decide which fertiliser should I use with so many available on the market. There are five main types of fertilisers that each have their own purpose and circumstances for use.

Agave Havardiana 'Harvard' Written and edited by Tammy 3rd January 2025 When it comes to searching for plants for your garden that are, hardy, drought tolerant, frost tolerant all the while looking smart and stylish in design, look for plants with silver or grey coloured foliage. But “why grey, what's so good about it?” You’ll notice silver or grey coloured plants have either fine soft hairy foliage, a tough leathery surface or a waxy coating. Often, they’ll have smaller, fine of even needle like leaves. It’s these features that are attributed to the plant’s place of origin, mostly a hot arid climate, and are its defence mechanisms or coping strategies for that climate it originates. Frost tolerance- fine hairs or a waxy coating prevent frost from being able to make contact with the plant’s leaf or stem surfaces. Bit like the plant has its own coat of armour on! Drought resistance- the finer the foliage the lesser the demand for water is, in comparison to large lush leafy green foliage. Makes sense! Temperature extremes- less leaf surface and foliage exposed to direct sun also equals less opportunity for sun burn. The same applies to plants with a waxy or leathery exterior. You can liken it to the plant having its on natural sunscreen on. I've put together a list here for you of some of my favourites. 12 best silver grey foliage plants Pigs Ears, Cotyledon Orbiculata   Silver Spurflower Plectranthus Argenttatus Liquorice plant Helichrysum petiolare Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum   Lamb's Ears Stachys byzantina Silver Dust, Dusty Miller or Silver Ragwort Senecio cineraria   ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ Eremophila Glabra Angels wings Scenecio candicans Native Coastal Rosemary 'Smokey' Westringia Fruticosa   Silver Cushion Bush Calocephalus Brownii Salt bush 'Grey Edge' Rhagodia parabolica   English Lavender Lavendula angustifolia   Cotyedon Orbiculata Pigs Ears Pigs Ears, Cotyledon Orbiculata Commonly known as Pigs Ears, Cotyledon Orbiculata is striking succulent with large, waxy, silver white leaves potentially reaching 1m x 1m in height and width. A perfect plant for a standout contrast of colour in garden beds or rockeries, or you could even use it in pots and containers. It contrasts beautifully against the strappy red phormiums pictured here above. Being a succulent it's also EASY peezy to propagate making them good value. Plectranthus Argentatus Spurflower Plectranthus Silver Spurflower With velvet-like soft grey, foliage, Plectranthus Argenttatus Silver Spurflower will happily grow Indoors in a bright, well-lit room just as happily as it will outdoors. Prefers a good organic, free draining, sandy loam. Add it to a beautiful big urn as a feature or showcase it as an underplanting beneath a lovely big shade tree. Reaching approximately 60cm -1m in height and equally as wide, striking mauve or white flower spires bloom throughout the warmer months. Helichrysum Petiolare Licorice Plant Helichrysum Petiolare Licorice Plant Helichrysum petiolare , commonly known as Liquorice plant is a fantastic little spreading ground cover that grows to around 50cm tall by 1.5 meters wide. Small fleshy green leaves covered with silvery white fuzz are complimented by dainty white flowers in the warmer months. Perfect for edges, border and fillers. Reaches approximately 50cm in height and can spread upto 1.5m wide. Convolvulus Cneorum Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum Silver Bush Convolvulus Cneorum Silver Bush. This one is definitely a standout performer and has won awards rightly so. A dense, bushy, spreading shrub covered in masses of glory type white flowers right throughout the warmer months. Grows to approximately 60cm tall x 1.5meters wide, the perfect plant suited to all situations from borders, edges, mass displays, containers and pots. Extremely good drought tolerance once established. (This is the one I've mass planted throughout the Naracoorte K&B Mitre 10 car park garden beds. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/silver-bush-convolvulus-cneorum ) Stachys Byzantina Lambs Ears Stachys byzantina Lambs Ears Stachys byzantina , Lamb's Ears, a beautiful quirky little ground cover well known for its velvety, soft, fuzzy leaves, truly resembling lambs' ears. A quick spreader that thrives in full sun, and well-drained soils. Reaching aprox 30-50cm tall and spreads upto 1m or more. Giving it a regular drink and the occasional light trim back over the warmer months will keep it looking good and prevent it becoming leggy. Makes for a lovely mass planted filler. Scenecio Cineraria Silver Dust Senecio cineraria  Silver Dust Senecio cineraria Silver Dust, Dusty Miller or Silver Ragwort. This one always reminds me of snow flakes. A small compact hardy shrub growing to only around 30cm in height and width. Occasional clusters of small yellow insignificant flowers in Spring, but its prized feature really is its silvery white foliage. Prefers full sun to partial shade in free draining, sandy or loamy soils. Moderate water requirements but does like to dry out between drinks. Tolerative of the cold but can be a little frost sensitive. Propagates easily from seed.  Perfect pop of contrasting colour and texture for pots, containers, and cottage garden beds. Eremophila Glabra Kalbarri Carpet Eremophila Glabra ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ Eremophila Glabra ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ An award winning, hardy Australian native ground cover, d istinguishable by its fine, narrow, silvery grey foliage, and slender, tubular, yellow flowers throughout Spring and Summer. Thrives in an arid climate and tolerative of drought conditions. Prefers a full sun aspect in well-drained sandy or loamy soils and has low water requirements once established. Reaching 30-40cm in height and spreading up to 2m, its perfect for dry native landscape style gardens and better still, ideal for preventing and overcoming soil erosion.  Birds, native wildlife and pollinators will thank you for planting natives too as you'll be providing them with a source of food and shelter. Scenecio Candicans Angel's Wings Scenecio candicans  Angels wings Scenecio candicans Angels wings are a real show-stopper with their large, heart shaped, velvety silver white foliage. The leaves themselves, you could almost liken them to that of the Liquorice plant I also rated here just prior..... only a lot larger! A popular choice for indoors and outdoors not only for their striking foliage, but for their ability to purify the air as well. Their bushy, compact growth habit sees them reaching potentially 30-90cm tall and equally as wide. Loves a bright indirect light if inside and a morning sun to part shade if outside. Think of that spot beneath a beautiful big shade tree that sees the early to mid-day sun. A free draining soil or potting medium is ideal, and only water when the top inch of soil is dry. Susceptible to root rot if over watered and not keen on frosts either. Senecios' are a succulent, so think of the requirements of your other succulents. Perfect plant to use as a 'filler' under planting to go with something taller, in a "thrill, fill & spill' large urn, pot or container. Let your imagination go wild! (Have to say I love love love Scenecio Serpens 'Blue Chalk sticks' too in mass plantings. Another real architectural one 😁🪴) Westringia Fruticosa Smokey Var. Westringia Fruticosa ‘Smokey’ Westringia Fruticosa 'Smokey' also known as a native coastal rosemary. Westringias' come in a large variety of cultivars, each one unique in the shape, size and colour growth habits. Smokey is a lovely, variegated form with dainty white to pale mauve flowers from Spring through into Summer. It has a dense, bushy, compact growth habit reaching between 1 to 1.5 meters tall and wide. A warm arid climate plant, they prefer full sun to part shade, and a well-drained sandy to sandy loan soil. Drought-tolerant once established, a moderate watering is all they need over long dry periods. Perfectly suited to coastal gardens, borders and hedges, and even more so if attracting, birds, bees and pollinators is a priority for you too. Calocephalus Brownii Cushion Bush Calocephalus Brownii Silver Cushion Bush Calocephalus Brownii Silver Cushion Bush. With fine needle like, hairy silver foliage, how perfect does this specimen look above in a garden here in Naracoorte. It contrasts and beautifully compliments the gnarly old tree limb it's nestled beside as though it's just meant to be there. The owner has many of them growing throughout her primarily native garden with them thriving in a full sun aspect, in a free draining pure sand soil. Drought-tolerant once established; particularly with an insulating layer of mulch as she has, the bare minimum of water is all that is required. Commonly used in gardens and landscapes for its attractive foliage, they tend to reach somewhere between 30 and 90cm in height and width. They truly look striking as a stand-alone feature in a garden as this one does, but they would look equally as amazing to see a hedge created with them or even in a large rustic urn. Rhagodia Parabolica Salt Bush Rhagodia parabolica  Salt bush 'Grey Edge' Rhagodia parabolica Salt bush 'Grey Edge'. Any list of grey foliage plants just wouldn't be complete without a salt bush. It doesn't get any hardier. This particular plant just happens to be growing no more than three meters away from the Cushion Bush pictured above, evidently, its growing preferences are the same. They are thriving!! Grey Edge grows to a height of 1 to 2 meters, is drought-tolerant once established; and only requires the occasional watering during prolonged dry spells. Prefers full sun, well-drained sandy or loamy soils; and is tolerative of alkaline saline soils too. Ideal for soil stabilization in coastal or erosion-prone areas. Popular in landscaping for its appealing foliage and form. Lavendula Angustifolia Eng. Lavender Fields of English Lavender Lavendula angustifolia English Lavender . There are so many cultivars of English Lavender available, including 'Munstead', 'Hidcote', and 'Royal Purple', each with unique characteristics. Typically grows between 1 to 3 feet tall, depending on the variety. Produces spikes of small purple flowers that bloom in summer, attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies. It features narrow, grey-green leaves that are aromatic when crushed, and thrives in full sun, free draining, sandy or even gravelly soils. Lavender might not be exactly a 'silver/grey' foliage plant but I'm still adding it to my list of favourites as it's right up there amongst them for every other reason and some. Even if grey plants aren't your thing from a colour palate perspective, don't dismiss them until you've done some research. Tough, drought hardy plants like these are already well adapted and suited to our climate. Their lower water requirements will not only save you hip pocket but help take the pressure off of our environment and precious resources too. Keep cool and have a wonderful weekend! Happy Gardening! 😘🪴 Other related posts you may like How to save water in the garden Watering lawns  There are lots of simple measures we can take to save water in our gardens potentially saving us hundreds of dollars a year. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/how-to-save-water-in-the-garden Help! My plants are burnt and crispy Burnt foliage burnt foliage is just one of those unfortunate things that happens from time to time. Try a few of these tips, hopefully they'll help. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/saving-burnt-crispy-plants Hard water-The cold, hard facts. Hard water If you see crusting on top of your soil surrounding your plants or a white residue on the leaves then they proceed to yellow and burn, there's a pretty good chance hard water will be a major contributing factor. So what can we do? https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/hard-water-the-cold-hard-facts https://amzn.asia/d/0ECXcz6

Delicate shade loving plants Watch any gardening shows on tv, and you’ll often hear them use the term ‘Microclimate’ but what IS a microclimate?? The term microclimate refers to a small area where the climate conditions differ from the surrounding area. Sunlight exposure, wind patterns, soil types, or proximity to structures are all contributing factors. Let me give you an example…. A large, advanced Morten Bay Fig tree growing in a full sun location exposed to prevailing winds… that’s the growing conditions it’s subject to, and the climate it’s growing within. Now if a collection of Hellebores' and Hosta's were growing at the base of that tree in rich, organic composted soil, protected from the winds by the large exposed roots, and fully shaded and sheltered by the huge canopy of dense foliage, they would be growing within their own climate, full shade and sheltered, and potentially a couple of degrees cooler too as the intensity of the suns heat would be less harsh beneath the dense thick canopy. One small, contained climate co-existing within another larger completely different climate, a micro-climate. **Benefits of growing plants within a micro-climate: ** 1. **Extended Growing Season: **If you're lucky enough to own a 'hot-house/ green-house', you can grow vegetables that might otherwise be out of season, almost all year round. Plants that require warmer temperatures often begin start to struggle once the days become cooler and shorter. A green-house acts as a microclimate trapping heat from the days sun within and insulating them from the cold allowing them to grow well beyond their typical season. This is how large commercial plant suppliers grow stock to provide to the retail outlets. Tomatoes growing within a green house. 2. **Protection from Harsh Conditions: ** Plants that are sensitive to strong winds or frost can be sheltered in a microclimate, providing them with a more suitable environment to grow. Think of the hellebores' example I just described above. You couldn’t grow the delicate little babies tears ground cover out in dry sandy soil in the hot sun, but if you planted a large shade tree, improved the soil beneath it, and grew some lovely dense perennials, there’s a good chance the babies tears might grow protected there in beneath the perennials. 3. **Diverse Plant Selection: ** By creating different microclimates within your garden, you can experiment in growing a wider variety of plants that may not be able to survive in the overall climate of your region. 4. **Optimal Growing Conditions: ** Microclimates can offer ideal conditions for specific plants, such as increased humidity, reduced sunlight exposure, or better drainage, leading to healthier growth. The little ferns growing within the terrarium below are growing within their own microclimate. They wouldn't be exposed the fluctuations in temperature within the house, cold draughts in the winter, or warm dry air from the fire. The moisture, humidity and temperature would be maintained and consistent. The perfect example of a microclimate. Tiny ferns within a terrarium, a micro-climate. A dear friend of mine has a beautiful new home built less than 10 years ago on their farm. When the house was first built quite literally in the middle of a paddock, there was not so much as a tree or twig. There was no protection from the constant prevailing winds and her soil was ( and still is) a heavy sticky black clay that becomes sodden in winter with the shallow water table and shrinks and cracks in summer leaving her with canyons a small dog could get lost down. The first thing she did was to establish a good, dense shelter belt of now large, advanced trees to completely surround the house. Fast forward to now, the mature trees provide almost total protection from the winds, the under-plantings of annuals and perennials have shade from the harsh summer sun, and many a season of top dressing her garden beds with generous layers of pea straw and rich organic matter has seen her have good, deep beds of nutrient rich top soil to plant into. She's essentially created a completely different climate within her yard to that of outside her yard, a microclimate. Michelle’s Garden A small section of her lovely garden that was once an empty barren paddock. Delicate plants growing in the under canopy. Next time you fall in-love with a plant but think you can’t have it because you can’t provide it with the growing conditions it needs, try to come up with a solution to get around those constraints. When it comes to gardening, anything is possible, sometimes we just need to think outside of the square. Happy Gardening 😘🪴

Written and edited by Tammy 7th April 2025 Insect attacked seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work, some Sherlock Holmes. It's a case of looking for clues and putting the puzzle pieces together. Slugs and snails - Look out for silvery trails all over the foliage and the ground. They need moisture to be able to move around otherwise they're at risk of their bodies drying out. When the weather is hot and dry, they'll be hiding somewhere cool and dark, and most likely, not your culprit. If it's recently been raining and everything is wet, there's a good possibility slugs or snails are to blame. Earwigs, millipedes and beetles - Like slugs and snails, these little critters are mostly nocturnal. During the day you'll find them hiding in the dark under rocks, logs and debris. They are renowned for chomping tender little seedlings off at the stems. If you don't see the evidence pointing to snails, you could perhaps suspect these critters. Earwigs and millipedes LOVE soft, sweet, delectable strawberries. They'll be hiding beneath the mulch surrounding them. Caterpillars -On mild, calm days keep an eye out for cabbage moths flitting around. They're known as cabbage moths for a good reason. They absolutely LOVE Brassicas, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Broccoli, and Brussell sprouts. They most often lay their eggs on the undersides of the foliage of your plants. The eggs hatch and hungry little caterpillars emerge. Lime green in colour, they camouflage well and discreetly chomp away at the underside of the leaves. As with snails and earwigs they can decimate a crop of seedlings very quickly, almost overnight. Aphids - will be obvious in daylight hours, you'll see them infesting new young shoots and foliage, roses are a favourite for them. They are sap suckers and will leave the new growth looking limp, yellow, and drained of life. Another indication aphids are at work is the sticky secretion they leave behind, honeydew, which in turn brings the ants in droves. Rodents and native wildlife - It's not always just grubs, bugs and creepy crawlies. Particularly if you live rurally or on the outskirts of town, mice, rats, rabbits and even birds don't mind a bit of greenery in their diets too. Make sure you install some rodent mesh around your veggie patch. Other than the missing vegetable seedlings, they leave evidence such as tracks, footprints and droppings. Vigilance and prevention are always better than cure. When you plant out new seedlings, don't be afraid to lay out some pet friendly snail bait around them. Cover them up with insect mesh so they physically can't get to them. Plant them in raised beds further out of reach of ground dwelling critters. When you are watering them daily, get down amongst them and check there's nothing crawling around on or beneath the foliage. Look for some clues and hopefully you'll be able to determine for yourself exactly who your culprit is. Happy Gardening😘🌱🌸

Rosemary Officinalis Written and edited by Tammy 24th April 2025 Rosemary: The Fragrant Herb of Remembrance and Resilience. It's one of the most commonly sort after, popular plants in most Aussies gardens but its more than just a kitchen staple. Rosemary Rosmarinus Officinalis , now officially classified under the name Salvia Rosmarinus, has a rich history that spans continents and centuries. But here in Australia and New Zealand, rosemary carries a special meaning close to the heart. A Symbol of Remembrance During ANZAC Day services across Australia and New Zealand, sprigs of rosemary are often worn to honour the memory of those who served and sacrificed for us. Why rosemary? Legend has it that the herb grew wild on the Gallipoli peninsula, where so many ANZAC soldiers fought bravely in 1915. Its strong, clean fragrance and evergreen nature made it a fitting emblem of enduring memory and loyalty. Rosemary Rosmarinus Officinalis-the short and tall. Originating from the Mediterranean, Rosemary grows extremely well here in our region, a cool temperate climate. Our long hot dry Summers and winter frosts don't phase the plant at all. Both having different uses, two of the most common varieties of Rosemary grown are, 'Tuscan Blue’ and ‘ Prostratus’ or ground cover Rosemary. Tuscan Blue is perhaps the most popular form, known for its neat, tall upright growth habit. It's this that makes it such a popular choice for borders and hedging in home gardens. The simplicity of mass plantings always oozes elegance and grandeur. Prostratus, ground cover or trailing rosemary, on the other hand is often used in pots, hanging baskets or as ground cover spilling over the edges of rockeries. As with Tuscan Blue, its aromatics and flavour are excellent for seasoning mediterranean inspired dishes. The classic and iconic roast leg of lamb just wouldn't be complete without it. Each variety of rosemary brings its own unique characteristics to both our cooking, and our gardens. Tuscan Rosemary A few growing tips to get you started Rosemary thrives in full sun. Find it a nice, sunny spot where it can soak up at least 6–8 hours a day. Well-drained soil is key: Rosemary doesn’t like wet feet, so sandy or loamy soil with good drainage is ideal. Minimal fuss: Once established, rosemary is drought-tolerant and low maintenance, it's water requirements are minimal. Ideal for pots and containers: If space is tight or frost is a concern, grow rosemary in a pot or container so you can bring it under cover in extreme weather. Keep it right by the back door for not only its looks and fragrance, but the convenience of it being on hand for culinary use. Prune for shape and health: A light trim after flowering will keep your plant bushy and prevent it from getting woody. Fertilise- with a quality organic all-purpose fertiliser to aid new seasons growth. Whether you’re using rosemary to bring structure and formality to your garden, or to quite simply season the humble roast potatoes, let it allow you to stop for a moment to honour the ANZAC spirit, its a living legacy. Enjoy your gardens 😘🪴 Least we forget

Healthy Prayer Plant Written and edited by Tammy 9th May 2025 We’ve all been there. You buy a beautiful healthy plant full of optimism and good intentions, plant it with love, and wait… only to watch it struggle, sulk, or completely check out. Plants can be a bit mysterious, but usually, there’s a good reason they’re not living their best life. Thankfully it's normally something straight forward and more importantly, an easy fix. Below, I’ve outlined the 10 of the most common causes of plant failure, so you can troubleshoot the problem and get your plants back on track. Why Your Plants Are Dying: 10 Common Reasons and How to Fix Them Overwatering Underwatering Nutrient deficiency Incorrect light Wrong soil pH Pests & Diseases Poor soil structure Root-bound or Pot-bound Temperature Extremes Lack of Care & Observation 1. Overwatering – When Roots Can’t Breathe One of the most common reasons plants die is too much water. Poor drainage or heavy clay soil can suffocate plant roots, causing them to rot. Overwatered plants often show yellowing leaves, drooping foliage, or leaf drop. I know that's confusing as underwatered plants can display the same symptoms, but the biggest clue will be that the soil is wet!! Indoor plants potted up into decorative cover pots can easily lead to issues, as they often lack or have inadequate drainage holes. Fix: Out in your garden, improve drainage with compost, gypsum, or coarse sand. Alternatively, use raised beds or pots with drainage holes. Ensure automatic watering systems are functioning correctly and not running for too long or too often. For indoor plants, if you're not confident in your judgement, pick up a moisture meter probe from any garden centre or plant nursery, it will eliminate any doubt. Aroids like pothos, monstera and philodendrons love their well-draining, chunky mixes. Keep indoor plants in a black growers pot inside the cover pot as growers pot have far better drainage. ⸻ 2. Underwatering – Hydrophobic Soil and Dry Roots On the flip side, underwatering and dry soil can prevent roots from absorbing water. Hydrophobic soil repels water and is as unhelpful as it sounds. It's often seen out in the garden when water pools on the soil surface. Some potting mixes, particularly peat moss, are almost impossible to rehydrate once they're too dry. The potting mix shrinks away from the sides of the pot allowing water to drain away too quickly without even touching the soil. Fix: Apply a wetting agent like Wetta Soil each season to your garden beds, raised beds and containers. Wetta soil breaks down the waxy coating on the surface of the soil that causes it to be non-wetting. Dress garden beds with a generous layer of mulch to hold the moisture in and prevent dehydration. For indoor plants, soak the whole pot in a bucket of water until air bubbles stop rising to surface. If the plant is extremely dehydrated, shrivelled, wilted or the foliage has collapsed, it's absolutely fine to leave it soaking overnight. It may take that long for the plant to rehydrate enough to stand up again. Related: The Benefits of Mulching – All Covered ⸻ 3. Nutrient Deficiency – Hungry Plants If your plant looks pale and yellow, is stunted and just not growing, it might be starving. Nutrient-poor soil, especially in pots, can quickly lead to weak, stunted growth. Fix: Feed your plants regularly throughout the growing season (generally the warmer months) using a combination of organic slow-release fertilisers, liquid feeds, worm castings, or compost. Layering your plant’s “meals” ensures a steady supply of nutrition, and consequently happier healthy, thriving plants. Fertilisers break down and are available to your plants at different rates so don't fret that you're overdoing it, they won't take it all in at once. Related: Which Fertiliser Should I Use? ⸻ 4. Incorrect Light – Sunburn or Stretching Light plays a critical role in plant health. Too much sun can burn and scorch leaves, where too little causes leggy, weak growth and a lack of blooms. Fix: Know your plant’s light requirements. Move shade loving plants out of direct sun and give full sun plants the exposure they need. For indoor plants, “filtered light” means a bright spot without direct sunlight. ⸻ 5. Wrong Soil pH – Nutrients Lock up If your plant isn’t responding to fertiliser despite your best efforts, your soil pH might be off. Soil that’s too acidic or alkaline can block nutrient absorption or result in toxicity. Fix: Test your soil using a pH test kit or pH meter available from most garden centres. Add garden lime to raise pH (increase alkalinity) or elemental sulphur to lower it (increase acidity). Monitor it regularly to pick up on any changes and amend when required. Matching your soil pH to plants preferences can make all the difference. Related: Soil pH – The Nitty Gritty of It All ⸻ 6. Pests and Diseases – Silent Killers If your plant is spotted, curled, sticky, or being eaten, chances are it’s under attack. Common garden pests include aphids, scale, and mealybugs. Fungal diseases like Black Spot, Rust and Powdery Mildew also cause major setbacks. Fix: Use neem oil, insecticidal soap, or a strong blast of water to deal with pests. Encourage beneficials critters like ladybirds as their favourite food source is the aphid! For fungal issues, try fungicides like lime sulphur or copper, alternatively natural remedies like milk spray can often be just as effective too. Prune regularly to improve airflow and prevent future problems. Related: Help! My Plant is Sick black spot powdery mildew ⸻ 7. Poor Soil Structure – Compaction and Lack of Organic Matter High traffic areas like your lawn can suffer compaction. If your garden soil is hard, crusty, or drains poorly, plant roots will struggle to grow and absorb water or nutrients. Fix: Loosen the soil to aerate it with a garden fork. Mix in compost, aged manure, or organic matter to improve texture and fertility. Healthy soil equals healthy plants. ⸻ 8. Root-Bound Plants – No Room to Grow Plants eventually outgrow their pots or run out of space. If roots are circling the base or growing out of drainage holes, your plant may be root-bound or pot-bound. Fix: Repot into a slightly larger container. Assess the health of the roots and gently tease them out before planting. Outdoors, avoid spacing plants too close together to allow roots room to expand. ⸻ 9. Temperature Extremes – Hot or Cold Shock Frost, heatwaves, or sudden temperature shifts can cause stress, wilting, or even death in sensitive plants. Fix: Protect tender plants with frost cloth or shade in extreme heat. Avoid planting sensitive species during seasonal transitions. Indoors, keep plants away from heaters, air conditioners, or drafty windows. ⸻ 10. Lack of Care and Observation – Plants Need Attention Plants can’t talk, but they do show signs when something’s wrong. They have a clever ability to communicate through a complex array of visual cues and physiological changes that can indicate distress or health issues. Fix: Check your plants often. Look for yellowing, drooping, insect damage, or odd growth. Water only when needed. Prune and tidy regularly. The more time you spend with your plants, the better you’ll understand them, and the faster you’ll spot when something is going on that’s not quite right. ⸻ Your plants aren’t dying for no reason; they’re trying to tell you something. With a little observation and the right response, most issues can be fixed. Patience is crucial, healing a struggling plant often takes time, as it needs to adjust to any changes you make in its environment or care routine. It might involve gradually altering watering schedules, adjusting light exposure, or even repotting if it has outgrown its current container. During the process, it’s essential to monitor your plant closely, as it may respond positively or negatively to the adjustments you made. Take note of any changes in growth patterns or leaf colouration, as these observations can guide you in fine-tuning your care approach. Remember, gardening is not just about planting and watering; it’s about building a relationship with nature. Treat your plants with kindness and care, and they’ll reward you in spades. Happy Gardening 😘🪴 Other posts you might enjoy...... Help! My plant is sick! Diagnosing what’s wrong with a sick or dying plant can be tricky stuff, they can exhibit a whole host of symptoms that may indicate different underlying issues. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/help-my-plant-is-sick Which fertiliser should I use? One of the most important jobs at the top of everyone's 'to do list' right now is to feed your gardens. https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/which-fertiliser-should-i-use What is eating my seedlings The biggest question on every gardener's lips right now is “what is eating my seedlings!?" Working out the answer requires a bit of simple detective work..... https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/what-is-eating-my-seedlings

Backyard enclosed compost pile. Thinking about starting a compost pile but not sure where to begin? You’re in the right place! Composting is one of the easiest and most rewarding ways to turn kitchen scraps and garden waste into rich, nutrient-packed soil food. Whether you’ve got a sprawling backyard or a tiny balcony, composting is totally doable and surprisingly fun. In this beginners guide I’ll break it all down step-by-step so you can start transforming your kitchen and garden waste into garden gold. But first let’s quickly look at the benefits of composting The Environmental Benefits of Composting Composting goes beyond just creating rich, nutrient-dense soil. Waste Reduction : When you compost garden waste and food scraps, you stop it from going to landfill where it would rot without air and create methane, a powerful greenhouse gas. Methane is the nasty stuff we don't want to be producing as it's bad for our planet. It traps in way more heat than carbon dioxide. So, by composting, you're cutting down on harmful emissions and shrinking your carbon footprint. That’s definitely something to feel good about! Soil Enrichment: Composting breaks down organic waste, like food scraps, leaves, and grass clippings, into a dark, rich material called humus . Humus is full of nutrients that help feed your plants. When added to soil, it improves the soil’s structure, helps it retain moisture, and supports healthy microbial life. In short, humus makes your soil healthier, more fertile, and better able to support strong, thriving plants. Biodiversity Boost : Mature compost contains a diverse community of beneficial microorganisms, fungi, and earthworms that enhance your soils ecosystem. This biodiversity doesn’t just support plant growth, but it also builds resilience in your plants against pests and diseases. Reduction in Chemical Use : When you feed your garden with rich, homemade compost, you’re giving it all the nutrients it needs, naturally. Over time, this reduces or better still, eliminates the need for synthetic fertilisers and chemical sprays which is ultimately better for your veggies, better for the bees, and just better all round! Plus, relying too heavily on synthetic fertilisers can actually throw your soil’s pH out of balance, often leading to increased acidity, just another reason to stick with the good stuff, compost and organic matter. Water Conservation : Compost improves soil’s ability to retain moisture, reducing how often you need to be out there turning a tap on. This in itself is particularly important as regions like ours face more frequent droughts. Gardens regularly and generously top dressed with good compost can realistically cut watering needs in half. So there’s 5 very good reasons you should be busting at the seams now to get stuck into building a compost, so let’s do it! Setting Up Your Composting System: A Step-by-Step Guide Step 1: Choose a Compost Bin Start by selecting the type of compost bin that works best for you. Options include: Open Pile : Ideal for larger spaces and natural decomposition. It can handle larger quantities but may attract pests if not managed carefully. Bin : A simple and tidy choice for small gardens or patios. Many designs are aesthetically pleasing and keep odours at bay. Tumbler : An enclosed composter is great for aeration and speed, it allows for easy mixing and quick results, though they can be a tad more expensive. Check out this one below 👇😁 https://www.mitre10.com.au/greendew-tumbling-composter-60l-7477573 Step 2: Select a Location Pick a dry, shaded area with good drainage in your garden. A location close to your kitchen is ideal for easy access to add scraps, particularly if you’ve chosen to go with a smaller more mobile option like a bin or tumbler . Step 3: Gather Materials Collect a mix of “greens” (nitrogen-rich materials) and “browns” (carbon-rich materials). Greens : Fresh vegetable scraps, fruit peels, coffee grounds, and freshly cut grass clippings. Browns : Dead Autumn leaves (preferably 2-3 bags), straw, shredded newspaper, and cardboard pieces. ( not the waxy coated cardboard). Step 4: Layering Your Compost Begin by adding a layer of browns, followed by a layer of greens. Alternate layers until your bin or pile is full. THE GOLDEN RULE Aim for a “1:3 ratio”, one-part green materials to three parts brown materials, as this achieves optimal decomposition. ( so for example 1kg of greens to 3kg of browns) TIP** Using the 1:3 ratio of greens to browns  in composting is really important because it keeps the process balanced. “Greens” add nitrogen, while “browns” add carbon. Too many greens and your compost can turn slimy and smelly. Too many browns, and it breaks down too slowly. A good mix helps your pile heat up, break down faster. Step 5: Maintain Your Compost Turn the pile every few weeks to introduce air and speed up the decomposition process. If your compost looks dry, lightly spritz it with water; it should feel moist, like a damp sponge. Step 6: Harvest Your Compost In about 3 to 6 months, your compost will be ready! It should have a crumbly texture and earthy smell. Remove any large, undecomposed pieces. Tips for Using Compost Effectively in Your Garden Once you've created your own homemade compost, it’s time to maximise your garden's productivity. Here’s what you can do with it. 1. Soil Amendment Before planting, add compost into your garden beds to enhance soil texture and nutrients. It’s important to mix the compost into your existing soil rather than using compost alone. Doing it this way creates a consistent environment, so young plant roots don’t struggle with a sudden change in texture, moisture, or nutrients as they grow outwards, which in turn will help your plants to settle in easily. 2. Mulching Utilise your compost as a mulch. Spread a generous layer around your gardens to help suppress weeds and retain moisture. Not only will it help keep the weeds at bay and the moisture in, but it will continue to feed your plants and soil as it breaks down further. 3. Compost Tea Create a nutrient-rich "compost tea" ( home made liquid fertiliser) by steeping your compost in water for 2-3 days. This liquid fertiliser can be used to water your plants or sprayed directly on leaves for an extra nutrient kick. 4. Top-Dressing Established Plants Apply a thin layer of compost around established plants for a slow release of nutrients throughout the growing season. This keeps plants robust and thriving, leading to increased yields, and continual blooms. 5. Monitor Plant Health Pay attention to your plants for signs of nutrient deficiency or excess. Adjust the compost quantity you use based on what your garden needs. Healthy Thriving Vegetable Seedlings Composting is more than a sustainable practice; it's a rewarding way to elevate your gardening experience. By recycling waste, enriching your soil, and fostering biodiversity, you’ll contribute to a healthier environment while enhancing the health of your plants and garden. Happy composting!😘🪴

Beautiful drought conscious landscaped garden example Written and edited by Tammy Johnson 30th May 2025 With climate patterns shifting and drought becoming a more common reality for so many of us, as gardeners we’re faced with the new challenge of how to keep our gardens thriving with less water. Gardening during dry times isn’t about giving up and accepting defeat, it’s about getting smart and creative. By embracing some simple alternatives, our gardens can become more resilient, sustainable, and beautiful than ever. Drought tolerant gardening concepts to embrace 1. Rethink Your Plant Choices One of the best ways to drought-proof your garden is to choose plants that are naturally adapted to dry conditions. Look for Australian native species or drought-tolerant plants like salvia, lavender, echinacea, rosemary, ornamental grasses and succulents. Plants like these not only survive but thrive with minimal water, often have lower nutritional requirements, and most attract pollinators too. Tip: Group plants with similar water needs together. This technique, known as hydrozoning, helps prevent overwatering and makes irrigation more efficient. ⸻ 2. Improve Your Soil’s Water-Holding Capacity. Healthy soil is like a sponge; it retains moisture and feeds your plants at the same time. You can improve your soil’s drought resistance by adding organic matter such as compost, worm castings, or well-rotted manure. These amendments boost microbial life, increase water retention, and help plants grow deeper, more drought-tolerant roots. Bonus: A thick layer of mulch (3–4 inches) helps to regulate soil temperature, suppress weeds, and reduce evaporation. ⸻ 3. Water Smarter, Not More Instead of watering on a fixed schedule, water deeply and less frequently. Deep watering encourages plants to grow roots further down, where the soil stays moist longer. Use soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems to deliver water directly to the base of plants, minimising waste from evaporation or runoff. In our region Naracoorte SA and surroundings where hard water is problematic, drip irrigation and soaker hoses also eliminate the issue of hard minerals spoiling plant foliage. Pro tips: Water in the early morning to reduce loss from evaporation and regularly check and maintain your irrigation fixtures and fittings for calcium buildup that can block and prevent it working efficiently. ⸻ 4. Catch, save and utilise rainwater. Install rainwater tanks to capture water from your house and shed rooves. The volume of water that can be harvested from one good storm or rain event can potentially keep your entire garden alive for months. Low-tech hack: Dig small shallow trenches in your garden beds to help capture and retain rainwater where your plants need it most. ⸻ 5. Wicking Beds Wicking beds in recent years have become a popular alternative way to contain and grow your vegetables. They work by drawing water up from a reservoir at the bottom of the garden bed, so the soil stays moist from below. This reduces evaporation, encourages deep root growth, and means you don’t need to water anywhere near as often. Check out this link below to a short video where Sophie Thompson of the ABCs Gardening Australia demonstrates setting a wicking bed up using an IBC. It’s very clever! https://youtu.be/obNWr8MD0uU?si=L3kyMReen6Lp6-eZ ⸻ 6. Reimagine Your Lawn Traditional turf grass is one of the thirstiest parts of the average yard. Consider reducing your lawn footprint or replacing some of it with beautiful meandering sweeping paths that invite you into different areas, or with ground covers like creeping thyme, dichondra repens, or native grasses. These alternatives are not only drought-tolerant but also add texture and I interest to your landscape. ⸻ 7. Add pieces of garden art Add beautiful big rocks, boulders, hollow logs, or other pieces of garden art. A few large features like these ‘fill in’ space where you might otherwise have placed plants the need water and nutrition. They look amazing but best yet have no upkeep. Think about your garden as a whole ecosystem. Use windbreaks, shade structures, or strategic planting to create microclimates that reduce water needs. Even something as simple as planting taller, sun-loving plants on the west side of a garden bed can provide afternoon shade for more delicate species. Drought doesn’t have to mean the end of lush, thriving gardens. It’s simply an invitation to shift our habits, get creative, and work with nature instead of against it. By embracing some simple changes and adapting to ways of drought tolerant gardening, we’re not just conserving water, we’re building gardens that can weather the future, no matter how dry it gets. As always Happy Gardening 😘🪴 Some more hardy plant suggestions for you. Perennials & Shrubs Lavandula angustifolia (English Lavender) Salvia greggii or Salvia microphylla Westringia fruticosa (Coastal Rosemary) Santolina chamaecyparissus (Lavender Cotton) Echium plantagineum (Paterson’s Curse) Convolvulous Cneorum ( Silver Bush) Artemisia spp. (Wormwood) Echinacea purpurea (Coneflower) Erysimum (Wallflower) Bracteantha (Everlasting or paper daisies) Rhagodia parabolica (Salt bush "Grey Edge") Calocephalus brownii (Silver cushion bush) Scenecio cineraria (Dusty Miller or Silver Ragwort) ⸻ Grasses & Groundcovers Thymus serpyllum (Creeping Thyme) Dichondra repens (Kidney Weed) Festuca glauca (Blue Fescue) Lomandra longifia and confertifia Poa Labillardierei (Tussock Grass) Pycnosorus globosus (Billy Buttons) Myoporum parvifolium (Yareena™️) ⸻ Australian Natives Westringia fruticosa (Coastal Rosemary) Eremophila Glabra ‘Kalbarri Carpet’ Grevillea (Bronze Rambler) Callistemon (Kings Park Special) Among others. Correa Alba (White Correa) ⸻ Cacti, Euphorbia & Succulents, Cotyledon Orbiculata (pigs ears) Sedum Herbstfreude (Autumn Joy Creeping Stonecrop) Crassula ovata (Jade Plant) Agave spp. Attenuata Aloe striata (Coral Aloe) Dracaena (Dragon tree) Euphorbia Martinii (Baby Charm). Trigona (African Milk Tree) Cacti- Many varieties. You might also like How to save water in the garden💦👀 There are lots of simple measures we can take to save water in our gardens potentially saving us hundreds of dollars a year. 12 of the best Silver Grey foliage plants When it comes to searching for plants for your garden that are, hardy, drought tolerant, frost tolerant all the while looking smart and stylish in design, look for plants with silver or grey coloured foliage. Hard water-The cold, hard facts. Hands up who knows why we have such hard water here in the Limestone Coast? There's a little clue in that I'm going to share with you....

Cold frosty morning Updated by Tammy 21st May 2025 Frosts are among the greatest adversaries for gardeners throughout the colder months. Days with clear, sunny skies often lead to subzero temperatures overnight, causing frosts to occur. Without being pro-active and having measures in place, the results can be detrimental. So, what happens to our plants when they're exposed to frost? When our plants are exposed to frost, this is what happens: 1. Plant Tissues Freeze: The sub-zero temperatures cause the water within the plant cells to freeze. 2. Cell Damage : The cell walls and membranes of the plant then become physically damaged due to the formation of ice crystals within those cells. 3. Disruption of Cell Functions : The frozen water expands causing the cells to burst. Once this happens, the cells cease to function as they should. 4. Dehydration : As the plant begins to thaw out, the damaged cells can no longer retain water properly, which leads to dehydration. 5. Wilting and Discoloration : The affected parts of the plant then start to wilt, turn black, or become discoloured as a result of the frost damage. 6. Reduced Photosynthesis : Once plant tissues are damaged to that extent, they're no longer able to photosynthesize effectively, which can further weaken the plant. 7. Increased Vulnerability : A plant that survives frost burn will often be more vulnerable to diseases, pests, and other environmental stresses. Tips for Preventing Frostburn Not quite an umbrella plant Vigilance Cover up Location Mobility Protectant formulations Timing of pruning Vigilance Watch and listen to the daily weather forecasts. Pay attention to the predicted minimum and maximum temperatures for the proceeding day. Be prepared to cover your vulnerable plants that night when sub-zero temperatures are forecast. Cover up Cover them up. Check out the image below. My Seedlings at work, every night I 'tuck them in😁' It takes me no more than a couple of minutes to roll some 'Frost cloth' out over them. Frost cloth is a re-usable product for covering plants that still allows them to breathe, while insulating them and preventing frost from settling on them. You'll find frost cloth at most major leading outlets and online. My babies at work all tucked in for the night An alternative to frost cloth might be an old sheet or a tarp supported by some sticks or hardwood stakes. You could even cover your plants with old plastic two litre milk containers or icecream containers. Be creative and utilise anything you've got to be able to cover them. Location Consider where you plant your seedlings or plants. Is there an alternative location in your yard that's more sheltered and protected, less exposed to frosts? Perhaps beneath some large established evergreen trees. Make them mobile You might be someone who doesn't have the option of planting out into the garden. For renters, or perhaps elderly who find it's physically challenging to get down on the ground to garden, it might be an option for you to have your plants in large mobile planters, raised beds, or pots on wheels or caddies. Making your plants mobile gives you the convenience of being able to move them around to expose them to sun throughout the day, then move them back under shelter at night. Protectant Treating your plants with a frost and sunburn protectant is another option particularly advantageous for larger vulnerable plants that it's less practical to cover. Look for the product called 'Envy'. Envy has been formulated by an Australian company based in Qld called  Agrobest.   The product is designed to protect plants from ALL environmental climatic stresses. The active ingredient is a water-based polymer that's non-toxic, pH neutral and biodegradable.  When it's applied to your plants it covers the foliage with an invisible membrane, protecting them from frosts, sunburn, windburn, and wilting from excessive moisture loss. It doesn't prevent them from being able to photosynthesize and breathe (take in carbon dioxide and release oxygen). You can find the product online through The Garden Super Store based in QLD.  Here's a link to their website Garden Shop | 1000's Of Products | The Garden Superstore Envy Frost and Sunburn Protectant Timing of pruning As with our roses, some plants are better off NOT to be pruned too heavily until the time of the season, when the risk of frosts has lessened. Most plants in general will slow down with their growth over the colder months, when the days lengths are shorter, and there is less sunshine and warmth. Pruning and feeding some plants too soon prior to Spring may encourage a flush of fresh new growth leaving in vulnerable frosts. Gardening is so rewarding, in more ways than I can mention, but it can be costly too. When it comes to some of the unexpected nasty frosts we often have here in our region, it's worth going that extra mile to implement a few measures to safeguard your plants, ensuring their health and survival. By taking proactive steps such as following the weather forecasts, covering your plants, and considering you planting location options, you can minimize the risks associated with frost damage and promote the longevity of your garden. Remember, prevention is key in preventing frostburn! Happy Gardening😘🪴

Fresh Garlic Written and edited by Tammy 6th April 2024 ( Allium sativum) Garlic. If you're contemplating, "how hard is it to grow garlic?"......the answer is simple, it's easy! Follow these basic steps and never buy supermarket garlic again.    ** Growing garlic steps to success ** Seed source How much do I need to plant? When is the right time to plant it? Growing requirements. Spacing and depth- how far apart, and how deep to plant them. Ongoing maintenance. When and how to harvest. Health benefits and uses for garlic. Seed source. Once you've decided to have a go at growing your own garlic, take the time to find yourself some quality Australian owned/grown produced seed garlic. Here are a couple of very good reasons why... For one, there's no guarantee how old garlic purchased from in the supermarket is, particularly if it has come from overseas, it could already be months old. Garlic from overseas is often treated with Methyl bromide to prevent pests and disease. And if you think that sounds like something nasty that's because it is.   Methyl bromide is a toxic fumigant no longer used here in Australia due to its hazardous properties. Even if it is Australian produced, garlic grown for the supermarket shelves is most aways pre-treated with growth inhibitors to prevent it from shooting. How much do I need to plant? It's pretty simple, think of it like this.... 1 clove of garlic produces 1 new plant. Each new plant produces roughly 10 to 12 new cloves. So theoretically, 10 cloves planted should net you, 10 new plants equalling 100 individual cloves. Always better to have too much than not enough I say! And remember, from what you grow, not only do you want enough to enjoy eating for the season, but you want to be able to save the same quantity for growing again next season. Ultimately you should never have to buy garlic again. When is the perfect time to plant garlic? Kinda any time now! Garlic, not unlike any other bulb, needs the cold to promote growth. As we head into Autumn there's still nice warmth in the soil, but the temperatures are dropping, and the day lengths are shortening. We've come to know of this as the perfect time for bulbs. Garlic needs 8-9 months to grow and reach maturity, so planting it now in Autumn between March and May means you'll be harvesting between November and January. Some folks say, "Sow on Anzac Day and Harvest on Cup Day". If that makes it easier for you to remember, then there's no harm in that. Growing requirements. Garlic needs plenty of sun, it won't grow in a shaded spot under trees. Find a good sunny spot in your yard or if that's not possible, grow it in a large pot or container. The advantage of growing in a pot or container is that you can plant straight into the perfect potting medium, drainage won't be an issue, and you can move it around your yard if need be. It does prefer a free draining, good rich organic environment. If you're sowing it into the ground add plenty of compost and good handful of blood and bone prior. TIP** Remember to rotate your crops to avoid build-up of soil born disease, aim for a 3-year rotation. Don't go back into the same spot with the same vegetable year after year. Spacing and depth. Soil prepared and ready to go. Break open the bulb if it's not already separated out into cloves. Set aside any tiny cloves too small to plant. Prepare a diluted solution of Seasol complete garden and Health treatment in a container and soak the cloves overnight. Pre-soaking the cloves in Seasol with give them a massive head start. Not only will it invigorate them and stimulate growth, but it will also boost their resistance to pests and disease. Once drained, dried off and ready to go you can begin sowing them. Give each clove approximately 15cm space between them and sow them down to a depth of no more than 4-6cm with the pointed end facing up and the rounded end facing down. Ongoing maintenance. Water them in with a little more Seasol. This should see them off to a really good start. Feed them at fortnightly intervals with a soluble fertiliser, Seasol powerFeed, and every couple of months apply some organic pelletised fertiliser of your choice, some Dynamic Lifter or Rapid Raiser, both good choices. If seasonal rain is plentiful, you won't need to water too often. Be mindful not to let them become waterlogged or they'll be susceptible to rotting. Keep on top of weed control, pull out weeds as they emerge to keep the garlic bed weed free. Monitor closely for evidence of pests and fungal issues such as aphids, rust or white spot. Where present treat with a natural organic fungicide or insecticide. You don't have to always turn to a store-bought product either, look at what's in your own pantry, Bicarb Soda can be a gardeners best friend! Combine 1 tablespoon of bicarb, in a couple of litres of water and treat with that. Often just as successful, kind to the environment and even kinder on your wallet. When and how to harvest. Around 8-9 months after sowing, the foliage will begin to yellow and die back. Stop watering 3-4 weeks prior to allow the skins to dry and tighten a little then they'll be ready to harvest. Use a garden fork (not too close to the bulbs or you'll risk damaging them) to dig down and lift to loosen the soil. This should make it easier to free them from the soil. Trim the excess roots and leaves to tidy them up. Secure them into bunches by the stems, and hang them in a warm, airy location away from direct light for at least 3-5 weeks to dry. Failing to dry them properly will risk them not storing, spoiling and going mouldy. Done properly they should store well for up to 12 months. Health benefits and uses for garlic. You could write a book about it, in fact I'm quite certain there ARE books and articles exclusively on the uses and benefits of garlic, so I won't go into that. Safe to say, garlic IS good for you. It's amazing anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and immune boosting properties have been tried and tested for centuries. And from a culinary perspective, what CAN'T you do with it. It finds its way into my own diet almost daily, whether it be a sneaky chunk off the end of a stick of Kalleske's Mettwurst in my fridge, or in the Garlic infused extra virgin olive oil drizzled on my salad. And I'm quite sure I'm not alone. Garlic Nature's perfect prescription Garlic recipes If you're here in my part of the world, grab yourself a pack of 'Good Aussie Garlic' seed. Proudly grown and produced right here in our own backyard....50 minutes down the road in Bordertown SA. Check out their website, you'll find Rachel and Wade's contact details there. EDIT *** Good Aussie Garlic are sold out for the 2025 growing season😔 Good Aussie Garlic Logo Grown at home garlic! ( goodaussiegarlic.biz ) Happy Gardening 😘🌸 You might also be interested in…👇 https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/treating-caterpillars-on-brassicas-101 https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/spring-flowering-bulbs https://www.tjsgardeningworks.space/post/successfully-growing-seedlings

Snowflakes Written and edited by Tammy 29th March 2025 Autumn is undoubtedly one of the nicest times of the year to enjoy our gardens. Leaves on deciduous trees transition through stunning shades of red, orange, yellow, and brown. Gardens everywhere take on an almost serene feel, that feeling of winding down...a deep sigh. But it's not time to wind down.... with the hot days finally becoming fewer it's the perfect time to get back out in the garden and start prepping for and planting those spring flowering bulbs. Why's it important to plant them now? Good question. The shortening day lengths sees our soils begin to cool, so planting now gives spring bulbs the optimal chill time they need to produce those stunning blooms. Most bulbs need somewhere between 12-16 weeks to chill, if you're in a cool climate like we are here in the lower SE of South Australia, there's no need to chill the likes of tulips in the fridge, our winter ground temperatures are adequate. ("Chilling" or chill time is the equivalent of, or alternative terminology for dormancy). They need a period of dormancy before awakening in Spring. How do I plant them? Another good question. The golden rule, to achieve that nice full look, is to plant your bulbs 'cheek to cheek' (just touching one another), and at a depth of two to three times the width of the bulb. A nice, large round daffodil is probably going to be between 3 to 4 inches deep down, whereas a little freesia may be barely 1 inch down. Feeding them If sowing them into your garden beds, improve your soil first by incorporating some well-aged animal manure or compost, and some blood and bone. Once they're sown, top dress with a handful of organic all-purpose balanced fertiliser, my favourite is Neutrog Rapid Raiser. Providing them with nutrition at the time of sowing means it's there in the ground ready for them to utilise as soon as they awaken from dormancy. Hydration Settle them in with a good drink of water and a dash of Seasol Health treatment for good measure. Continue to water them at regular intervals to maintain just enough moisture, but without leaving them waterlogged. Mulch Make sure you apply a layer of mulch once they're settled in. The mulch does multiple things. It helps to maintain the level of moisture in the ground, and more importantly it acts as an insulation blanket, preventing them from being affected by frosts and extreme dips in temperature. Autumn flowering Belladonnas Bella Belladonna Easter Lillies. We can’t not mention this Autumn flowering beauty, Amaryllis Belladonna, also known as Easter Lilies or Naked Ladies. It’s not Easter until you spot these darlings showing their pretty faces randomly along the road sides. From late Summer into Autumn, classic, large lily style pink to white flowers sit high atop of tall stems well before the leaves appear. Long, slender glossy green leaves emerge well after the flowers finish. Native to South Africa, but naturalised throughout most parts of Australia, they’re extremely hardy, and drought tolerative. Like most bulbs they multiply. There’s no need to lift or disturb them, in time, they go on to form large clumps that can later be divided. Their preference is for well drained, lighter soils (hence they’re seen to be thriving in areas of sandy soils throughout our region, south east of SA), hot dry summers and wet winters. Spring flowering bulbs The variety of bulbs to choose from is endless! Snowflakes, Daffodils, Freesias, Irises, Tulips, Ranunculi, Hyacinth, Anemones and more, you really can have some fun. A little Inspiration 🌷 Dressing up an otherwise empty dull corner of a courtyard or patio with a lovely large pot planted up with an assortment of bulbs and other complimentary cascading perennials can really brighten things up, bringing it to life. There are a few advantages to planting bulbs in pots and containers. They'll be mobile! You can move them around to suit your mood. You’ll know exactly where your babies are. There's no chance you'll accidentally chop them up or lose them digging around in the garden throughout the rest of the year. Finally, Bulbs need good quality, moist but free draining soil. Planting them in containers in a premium potting medium will ensure they get this. You've heard the expression ‘less is more’? Keep it simple. Try mass displays of only one or two contrasting colours to create a real wow factor. Mass planting of blue and white Hyacinth illustration There's also nothing wrong with scattering them randomly or in clumps throughout your garden beds, making for a lovely surprise when they reappear the following season. Kindy's and Primary schools often run bulb fundraisers early in the new year. It's a great opportunity to stock up on some bulbs while supporting the schools at the same time. If the kids are past that age, you'll find most of your major leading outlets start stocking them in early Autumn, which for us here is now. There never really is a quiet time of the year in the gardens as there's always something to prepare, prune, plant, lift, divide or just shuffle around. Maybe I've inspired you even just a little, if you've got some spare empty pots, or space in the garden, grab yourself some bulbs and get planting. Happy Gardening!😘🌹🌸

Healthy Indoors plants Written and edited by Tammy 6th March 2025 Diagnosing what’s wrong with a sick or dying plant can be tricky stuff, they can exhibit a whole host of symptoms that may indicate different underlying issues. Environmental conditions, pest infestations, nutrient deficiencies, and diseases all come into play so having an understanding of these elements really is important to be able to diagnose a sick plant successfully. Just as doctors ask questions, listening for clues and observing the physical symptoms, so do I when faced with an unhappy plant. Each symptom can tell a story about the plant's condition and the potential problems it faces. Yellowing leaves might suggest overwatering or nutrient deficiencies, while brown, crispy edges could indicate underwatering or environmental stress. It can be a complex puzzle, and by no means do I profess to have all the answers, but it's those challenges that I enjoy every day. Possible reasons your plant is sick There are three different possible scenarios, a pest, disease, or a disorder. Definitions: Pests- Insects, mites, rodents, animals. Disease- A fungal, viral or bacterial infection. Disorder- Abnormality in the way a plant is growing as a result of incorrect or inconsistencies in water, nutrition or exposure to climatic and soil conditions. What to look for Pests Disease Disorder Evidence of pests Pests eat plants. Sometimes the clues they leave behind can be obvious while other times not so much. Different sized insects and animals AKA 'Pests', leave different evidence of their feastings behind. Mites are microscopic, (barely visible to the naked eye) sap suckers that leave the foliage looking yellow, drained of goodness and washed out. You may even notice fine, almost web-like dust on the under sides of the leaves. They LOVE our indoor plants. Leaf borers or leaf miners leave wiggly white lines or rather tracks throughout the membranes of the leaves. (pictured above) Also sucking insects, Aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and thrips are all a little larger and visible to the eye. These types of insects often leave their secretions behind called 'Honeydew'. A sweet, sugary substance that goes onto to become black and mouldy, not before the ants come marching in droves! (Recognising scale👉 ) Caterpillars, snails, slugs and grasshoppers are all munchers and crunchers, they leave obvious holes in the foliage if they leave anything at all! Larger pests like birds, rats, rabbits and possums will devour small, tender delectable little seedlings and leave not much more than maybe a stem as evidence that they existed. Possums LOVE our roses and fruit trees. I've seen young fruit trees, and new seasons growth on roses stripped of everything bar the stems of the leaves. (Dealing with snails👉 ) Rabbits, Kangaroos and rural livestock are renowned for 'ringbarking' young trees (removing the outer layer of the trunk)-but then so can a whipper snipper (ask my passionfruit vine what happened the day I took home a new Makita line trimmer🤭) Larger animals if given the opportunity to get into the veggie patch, may leave your plants crushed, broken and perhaps even pulled from the ground in the way that they graze. Above left- Grasshopper. Centre- Aphids. Right- Earwig. Below left- Mealy bugs. Centre- Scale. Right- White fly. Evidence of disease These next two scenarios are kind of closely connected. Often, disease takes hold in a plant as a result of the same inconsistencies that lead to a diagnosis of a disorder. Avoiding situations that lead to disorders can often prevent them being susceptible to disease. Three of the most commonly seen diseases in our home gardens are Black Spot, Powdery Mildew and Rust, all fungal diseases manageable with fungicides. Copper oxychloride and Lime sulphur are two of the most common fungicides on the market along-side more natural friendly alternatives like milk or bicarb soda. Black spot will be all too familiar for anyone who has ever grown roses. Almost always seen on roses towards the later part of the season when they're tired and running out of puff, particularly where there is over crowding of foliage, creating a lack or air circulation. A lack of air circulation combined with the right degree of humidity (moisture in the air) creates the perfect breeding ground for not only black spot, but for most fungal diseases. Early stages will look like perfect round black spots randomly spread over the leaves. As it progresses those leaves lose their green pigmentation turning yellow, then finally falling from the plant. ( Black Spot check out my previous article on black spot and pruning roses👉 ) Powdery Mildew begins will small powdery white looking blemishes on the leaves and stems. It progresses to cover the entire leaf surface with the foliage eventually shrivelling and dying. Commonly see on Zucchini's, pumpkins, melons and cucumbers. Hydrangeas and grape vines, edible and ornamental are also highly susceptible. ( I'll show you a little more on managing powdery mildew👉 ) Rust is something our farmers are constantly on the lookout for in their wheat and barley crops, it can be a problematic issue for them most seasons. Easily identifiable by the presence of tiny, raised almost fuzzy looking orange, red or brown spots. Keep an eye out for it on veggies like tomatoes, peas and beans, and amongst flowering annuals, calendulas, snapdragons, gerberas, hollyhocks and geraniums will be the most susceptible. Evidence of disorders Diagnosing a disorder can be a lot trickier than an obvious pest infestation or a disease, as a lot more factors come into play. A disorder can be summed up as any situation where a plant doesn't look as it should or isn't performing as it should be relating to water, nutrition, environment or climatic factors. Process of elimination- if there's no evidence of pests, or disease, then it has to be a disorder. (the fun part is establishing which one it is!) Nutritional deficiencies or toxicities for want of a better way to describe it, plants need the right proportions of nutrients from all the 'food groups' just like us. Think of the healthy food pyramid, although their food pyramid would look a little different from ours, but the concept is the same. Too much or not enough of one thing will see them screaming out to us with clues ranging from a lack of pigmentation, to curling of leaves, too much pigmentation and crispy burned leaf margins amongst others. HINT** Often a customer will approach me asking for Iron to take home and treat their yellow plant. In some instances, they'll be 'bang on the money' that it is an Iron deficiency, but if you're not 100% certain, resist the temptation to treat is as such, because you could potentially cause further issues poisoning your plant with something it never in fact needed. Always err on the side of caution, do a little homework first. (Checkout this article I wrote a little while ago now on reasons your plant may be yellow👉) Hydration A plant can look wilted and droopy because it's thirsty, on the other hand it can look droopy if it's lacking in oxygen/drowning too. HINT**I mentioned earlier that disorders can sometimes lead to disease? Root rot in indoor plants is a disease that unfortunately occurs as a direct result of too much water/wrong potting medium. What is your watering rescheme? How much water does this particular plant actually need? Has your soil become hydrophobic not allowing it to take in and hold water, or on the other hand, is it holding too much water drowning it, should it be planted in a more, free draining medium? All questions taken into consideration if a hydration disorder is suspected. Burned shrivelled foliage can also be a result of inadequate water. Climatic conditions, soil & light can most definitely come into play when assessing why a plant is unwell or is failing to thrive. Knowing the climate zone and habitat a plant originates from can tell us a lot more about its preferences, and the environment it will most likely thrive in. A plant that originates from a hot, arid climate, quite likely has the ability to store water in its roots or fleshy leaves (think cacti and succulents), some have small fine needle like foliage to minimise the opportunity to burn in the sun and lessen its need for water. (think of native coastal rosemary or saltbush). Plants like these will most likely fail to thrive and struggle in a heavy rich soil in full shade, just as ferns, fuchsias and hydrangeas will quite likely burn and shrivel in sandy soil, in the full hot afternoon sun. Stunning Hydrangeas growing in a sink hole. Mount Gambier SA. Being able to look at a plant and establish what is wrong with it, is not something you can learn overnight. It's knowing what to look for and where. Being able to look at a plant's characteristics, for clues to its origins to know what its preferences are. It's a whole jigsaw puzzle that comes together to build a picture. It's a skill that has taken me personally, years of study along-side working with plants every day to become confident with, and I'm still learning something new every day. We never stop learning. I hope there are some useful clues here that might help you to work out why your plant may be sick. And if all else fails, please reach out, send me a message and we can work it out together. Or our lovely Limestone Coast locals will know where to find me. Keep praying for rain, it's bound to come soon. Happy gardening 😘🪴🌸